I've heard many times the drive system can be colored..... say for the instance, the save exact TT with Direct, Belt and Rim drive. Maybe it only has to do with noise?
I like the approach Nottingham Analogue has taken. A very heavy platter combined with their AC motor, which is always ON. You need to push the platter to start its rotation and it literally only takes a second or two to come to speed. Speed accuracy is outstanding and the TT is as quiet as can be from a standard configuration.
Have no personal experience with Nottingham. How do you stop the platter? Do you just stop it by hand?
Platter material definitely imparts a tonal character/balance. My aluminum platter sounds different than my stainless steel platter. No right or wrong, just voicing preference. I prefer the Stainless platter on the AF1.
I believe that proper system inertia and freedom extraneous resonance at the vinyl are the keys, and every component in the turntable must do its part for that to happen. It should be a synergistic approach by its very nature.
For example, a lot is said about speed controls, but if the motor cannot adequately control the platter, the world's best speed control unit can't fix it. It may help, but it can't fix a poorly thought out scheme. A wonderful platter on a bad bearing isn't going to work too great, either. And, so it goes.
Thanks, Sean. I try.
The platter is made from aluminum, brass and Acetron GP (a Delrin variant.) It is center-weighted by the brass with the delrin inset into the top. The goal was to achieve a design that is free from unwanted resonance at the vinyl, as well as on that allows the motor to be in control of the spin. I did not want a flywheel effect that would result in overshoot that would smear micro-dynamics. I was after a spin-neutral design, for the lack of better words.
The bearing was built with reliability being one key factor, and dynamic drag being the other. It is difficult to turn by hand, but the drag is caused by its interaction with the lubricant, not mechanical friction.
The motor is an external rotor, three-phase, eddy current design that has been modified further for turntable use, and the controller is a very sophisticated one that reproduces the power for the motor, plus a bunch of other stuff. It even has linear amps with a total output of 270W. I don't want to promote myself, so I'll stop with that.
My turntable (Walker), uses a 75 lb lead platter. Rotational inertia is in play here. The low torque motor is coupled to the platter via a belt of silk with fairly high tensile strength and little stretch. Speed is stabilized via the Walker Precision Motor Controller, which is used as an aftermarket unit by many people. Speed changes are done with a toggle on the controller between 33 and 45.
The heavy platter/low torque motor requires a helping hand in getting up to speed and stopping all that mass. I do not turn the motor off when changing LPs. Speed is very steady and has required only minimal adjustment over the years (I check speed accuracy once per week as part of routine maintenance).
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