Technics SP-10R turntable

[XV-1]

might be of interest to a few



mk3 removed, ready for the SP10-R - note the 9 holes in the Acoustand plinth - It has 9 positions to screw the SP10-R to the plinth



logically packed, control unit packed on the left, motor unit on the right, with the platter and matt under that.



motor unit in the plinth - the R is a couple of mm smaller all around compared to the mk3, which gave me flexibility in aligning the Thales Simplicity II perfectly. Godsend that the motor unit and the platter have detachable handle mounting handles - makes installation a breeze. The mk3 only has it for the platter.




the lovely machined platter.



The platter has an alignment jig that helps protect the platter's finish when lowering it on the motor unit, then screwing the platter in place with 3 screws.

 

[XV-1]

The finished piece

 

[thekong]

Would be very interested to hear your opinion on the SP10MK3 vs SP10R comparison

 

[Argonaut]

The finished piece

That is one slick looking ‘Beast’ wish you joy of it .

 

[Johan K]

Looking great Shane, Congratulations to your new drive unit. Please tell us all (when it’s broken in) how it compares to the old MK-III.

Happy tunes my friend !

/ Jk

 

[PeterA]

Shane, that is a very cool looking table. How did you decide on those two arms?

 

[XV-1]

Would be very interested to hear your opinion on the SP10MK3 vs SP10R comparison

too early to tell atm on a musical delivery perspective. It doesn't help that my fav Lyra Atlas cart is off in Japan getting retipped which is the only cart I use on the Thales Simplicity. I will let the R run in first as on the first few hours the R is a little fuller sounding or is the Mk3 a little leaner however I am sure the R will settle in a bit more with more hours.

One thing is certain, the Mk3 has more powerful starting torque and stop. It's like the Mk3 is a large V8 muscle car - starts instantly and stops abruptly. The R is more subtle starts and stops a split second slower. Closer to my Pioneer Exclusive P3 in this respect.

cheers

 

[XV-1]

Shane, that is a very cool looking table. How did you decide on those two arms?

Hi Peter

Both arms I used on my old TW Acustik AC-3, which is now sold.

The Thales Simplicity was based on my dealer recommendation, demoed it at home and it was a LOT better than my Graham Phantom. The near zero tracking error brings a very pure sound, especially in the last 3rd on records.

The SME 3012R was purely from all the "hype" on this forum, including you, Tim and DDK A used one in great condition came up locally and @ 2K it was too cheap to say no. It's a damn nice tonearm and a stone cold bargin vs the ever increasing stupid prices of tonearms and hifi in general.

cheers

 

[JiminGa]

I'm having Chris Thornton of Artisan Fidelity build a Magnesium/Aluminum alloy plinth for my SP 10r. It should be ready by December (18 month project) A linear power supply upgrade will be available next year. If you go on his site you can read a very good analysis of sp10r vs mk3.

 

[XV-1]

I'm having Chris Thornton of Artisan Fidelity build a Magnesium/Aluminum alloy plinth for my SP 10r. It should be ready by December (18 month project) A linear power supply upgrade will be available next year. If you go on his site you can read a very good analysis of sp10r vs mk3.

I have spoken to Chris a few times over the years - knowledgeable guy and makes great plinths. I bet you can'tb wait.

What plinth are you using now? Feel free to post some pics of your rig, now and after you get the new plinth.

Lee from Acoustand used a solid billet of aluminum and Delrin for my Technics plinth copy.

 

[JiminGa]

I sent the sp 10r directly to Chris. This particular plinth and the modifications to the sp 10r are several steps beyond what he has done for it before. He does have an NGS for the MK 3 that is close. He is collaborating with Purdue University on the materials and Sorren Wintrup on the electronics. Sorren spends most of his time working on high end studio boards across the country, rebuilding tape decks and repairing out of warranty electronics for high end European manufacturers. It starts with a solid billet of Mg/Al and then CNC to spec. It's all a gamble as mine will be the first he's made like this. His design goal (and this remains to be seen) is to improve on 200k SAT table for under 75K. I'll let you know in December if he comes close.

 

[Johan K]

too early to tell atm on a musical delivery perspective. It doesn't help that my fav Lyra Atlas cart is off in Japan getting retipped which is the only cart I use on the Thales Simplicity. I will let the R run in first as on the first few hours the R is a little fuller sounding or is the Mk3 a little leaner however I am sure the R will settle in a bit more with more hours.

One thing is certain, the Mk3 has more powerful starting torque and stop. It's like the Mk3 is a large V8 muscle car - starts instantly and stops abruptly. The R is more subtle starts and stops a split second slower. Closer to my Pioneer Exclusive P3 in this respect.

cheers

I’m sure the torque can be adjusted as on the SL-1200, both for start and stop individually.

 

[XV-1]

I’m sure the torque can be adjusted as on the SL-1200, both for start and stop individually.

Yes, you need a flat screw driver to adjust it manually. The brake as well if you wanted to. Have a go Johan and let us know if the sound changes

On the R you can adjust the torque from the controller in 5 settings from Max ( factory standard) to min. Maybe I will play with it at some time

 

[DasguteOhr]

Certal Alloy (aluminum with 4% magnesium) works excellently as a base or platter. Excellent damping properties for metal.

 

[Johan K]

Yes, you need a flat screw driver to adjust it manually. The brake as well if you wanted to. Have a go Johan and let us know if the sound changes

On the R you can adjust the torque from the controller in 5 settings from Max ( factory standard) to min. Maybe I will play with it at some time

I have mine set to start and stop pretty quickly. It’s the DJ approach that I’m used to back in the days. I don’t hear that much of a difference in SQ whether there is more or less torque. I like the convenience with fast starts and stops.

 

[XV-1]

I have mine set to start and stop pretty quickly. It’s the DJ approach that I’m used to back in the days. I don’t hear that much of a difference in SQ whether there is more or less torque. I like the convenience with fast starts and stops.

Johan. There is no slow start and stop with Technics DD tables

It's hard to use those slow belt drive tables in comparison

 

[Johan K]

Johan. There is no slow start and stop with Technics DD tables

It's hard to use those slow belt drive tables in comparison

The Ascona Neo is like a Union Pacific Freight Train to start up, but once up in speed.. there is no slowing down☝..!! Then it’s like the space shuttle in orbit - constant speed !

 

[XV-1]

The Ascona Neo is like a Union Pacific Freight Train to start up, but once up in speed.. there is no slowing down☝..!! Then it’s like the space shuttle in orbit - constant speed !

18 minutes later you have to stop, change a record and start that freight train all over again - choo choo choo

 

[Johan K]

18 minutes later you have to stop, change a record and start that freight train all over again - choo choo choo

No not really - I just have it spinning !

 

[leyenda]

Interested to hear about the comparison between the mk3 and 10-r as well.