I'm not in the ultimate fidelity camp but how many of these cables regardless of price would actually pass let's say, a 1kHz square wave null test? As you say easy enough to measure and prove. The contrary was never my assertion.
How about, instead of a square-wave test, you measure impulse response using 24/192 and about 60khz bandwidth? That way, you see, you can learn everything you can from a square-wave test at any frequency and a lot more.
But, now, what is "pass"? Define "pass"? Null vs. what? What rise time on the square wave? Do you want 500kHz bandwidth or will you settle for 50?