Finding Musical Engagement Atlanta 4.27.25.pdf
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^My presentation on system setup from the Atlanta Audio Club today.
Noise. That damned demon you may not even know about...
- Thread starter treitz3
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^My presentation on system setup from the Atlanta Audio Club today.
Confucius Say “ Make foundations well and true before building Temple to sound “
This is OT but since it was raised above.....
Replacing the outboard Vishay resistors on the Wilson speaker crossover for the Alexx V and some of their other speakers (Alexia V, XVX) once a year or so (depending on how often and loud you play) is a very real observation and recommendation by Wilson. The obvious question is, if the resistor isn't blown, why does it need to be replaced? The answer is- I have no earthly idea but it's an important thing to do- it matters sonically. I've had discussions about this with some of the Wilson folks and can't say I was impressed by their answers, but I can't disagree with the sonic benefits of changing the resistors. It's a few hundred bucks for very tangible benefits. Just do it! You will likely find the speaker sounds a bit smoother in the upper mids and highs when the resistors are changed. My preference from my crossover building days would be to use identical value Caddock 311 series resistors that don't depend on the heat sinks currently utilized for the current Vishay resistors, but I haven't succumbed to temptation yet and probably will not. You can bet however, that Wilson is probably going to move to different crossover resistor technology in future models. There's nothing sonically wrong with the current configuration but it would be nice to find resistors that don't require recommended yearly replacement.
All resistors degrade over time. I think this is a neat solution to keep things fresh.
May I ask a question?
Have you tried less expensive LAN isolators not necessarily suitable for streaming in front of things like tv set, home office computers?
My streaming comes from a Fritzbox router to a Taiko router, etc.
Fritzbox does feed from other LAN outputs tv, madame’s home office computers and other appliances.
Putting an otherwise pretty decent Ediscreation switch between Fritz and non-hifi appliances improved tv picture, but surprisingly hurt music.
This was several months ago, my system has been moved to another home, a lot of grounding stuff has been introduced (CADGC1, 3, usb control, Groundarays …). This might come out differently today.
Would, say a measly delock, an ifi LAN silencer, DX iso-plus, all for small coin, help keeping noise coming from tv, etc. away from our music?
Put them at the non-hifi outputs of the ips Fritz router?
Cheers and thanks in advance for your help!
Ulrich
Have you tried less expensive LAN isolators not necessarily suitable for streaming in front of things like tv set, home office computers?
My streaming comes from a Fritzbox router to a Taiko router, etc.
Fritzbox does feed from other LAN outputs tv, madame’s home office computers and other appliances.
Putting an otherwise pretty decent Ediscreation switch between Fritz and non-hifi appliances improved tv picture, but surprisingly hurt music.
This was several months ago, my system has been moved to another home, a lot of grounding stuff has been introduced (CADGC1, 3, usb control, Groundarays …). This might come out differently today.
Would, say a measly delock, an ifi LAN silencer, DX iso-plus, all for small coin, help keeping noise coming from tv, etc. away from our music?
Put them at the non-hifi outputs of the ips Fritz router?
Cheers and thanks in advance for your help!
Ulrich
interesting question. My TV, TV box and router are powered by equitech balanced power gear. When I was waiting for a demo switch to try at that location (different room from hifi), I decided to break in a power cord using it to power the equitech so that it would be ready to use when the switch arrived. I'm not sure if the TV looked any better, but the hifi sounded better. That was completely unexpected. My assumption is that even though the hifi is on a dedicated line, everything goes back to the breaker box and cross contamination happens there. So, if the nice power cord is a two-way filter, it is partially reducing the noise from the three noisy components going back to the line.
That has me thinking about trying something like this which is designed to reduce high frequency noise: https://jaguaraudio.com/product/akiko-triple-ac-evolution-by-akiko-audio/ It would share the outlet with the equitech. $525 isn't small change but compared to some of the gizmos I've tried, it isn't unreasonable if it works well (and try-before-you-buy opportunity).
Just curious: What do you power with the Stromtank?Hi PYP!
I did a similar approach.
I use my old mains filters which I don’t want to have in my hifi setup anymore for tv and home office pc.
I haven’t done comparative listening, but this certainly helped ocd regarding mains pollution
Cheers, Ulrich
Various experiments with ethernet filters (in my setup, to my ears, etc.) resulted in better sound quality when streaming, but the effect seemed to diminish over time. For those with the fever, this can lead to adding more filters and the conclusion that stacking is the best solution. Adding switches, LPS and clocks were also part of my whack-a-mole experiment. I've been wondering for a long time how this was possible. Where were the gremlins and how did they find their way back into the system.
One can assume that the SMPS pollution from all kinds of electronics are finding its way through the electrical system. But with a dedicated outlet and well-regarded (and works well according to my ears) power distributor in place, how could noise still be present. For those with a tolerance for tweaks, this device might be of interest: https://www.akikoaudio.com/en/products/product/akiko-audio-triple-ac-evolution-u-s Summary: It works (in my setup). While the manufacturer states that one month is needed for full break in, I have found happiness in less than one week.
Further clarity and body are obvious benefits, but the most treasured result is MUCH greater consistency in SQ morning, afternoon and evening. Placement matters. It sounded odd when paired with the Shunyata power distributor. But plugged into an outlet on a circuit that includes the computer, TV, TV box and router, the effect was rather immediate and continued to build over time.
One can assume that the SMPS pollution from all kinds of electronics are finding its way through the electrical system. But with a dedicated outlet and well-regarded (and works well according to my ears) power distributor in place, how could noise still be present. For those with a tolerance for tweaks, this device might be of interest: https://www.akikoaudio.com/en/products/product/akiko-audio-triple-ac-evolution-u-s Summary: It works (in my setup). While the manufacturer states that one month is needed for full break in, I have found happiness in less than one week.
Further clarity and body are obvious benefits, but the most treasured result is MUCH greater consistency in SQ morning, afternoon and evening. Placement matters. It sounded odd when paired with the Shunyata power distributor. But plugged into an outlet on a circuit that includes the computer, TV, TV box and router, the effect was rather immediate and continued to build over time.
This came into my email. I have not thwarted the noise in my system. I have no idea what it is or where it could be from. It is not something like a hiss or a hum. Unless the problem is more serious I am often okay with it until the more complex music. At that point there is a sound a bit as though voices are not staying in their proper lanes, graininess, problems with pitch and harmonics, a sort of tangling or confusion. The soft, simple parts of the music may be fine. I have tried a PSAudio P20, a Nordost Qbase Reference, Nordost QKore with cables, a different preamp. Cables are good. I have tried plugging the preamp (which seems to be, but is not, the problem) into the wall outlet instead. I have observed everything that I can think of. I have turned off solar and inverter. It used to go away if I unplugged the whole system and then turned it back on the next day but it stopped doing that. The sector has nothing else on in it except the modem and router. Just the sound system into one outlet. There is at times nothing on in the house, only on standby. No dimmers. A dedicated line is possible but it could be something to do with the mains.
That is exactly what I am talking about!
Complex music should be just as fluid and wonderful as softer, less instrumental and vocal music. No grain. Many more aspects to this...but this is my point.
The less noise you have? The better the bliss in everything else.
Tom
I was thinking it wasn't so bad when this evening at 5 I started playing a track of moderate complexity but not unlike music I played earlier today. It sounded good until it began not to and by 5:20 I turned it off and played piano. Sigh, it was a pretty good run of listening.
Have you thought to try battery power? With Rex Hungerford’s guidance, I set up a simple 5000 watt hour system to power everything but the subs. I’m still evaluating whether it is better than my Utility power (which is good I think), but the battery sounds very good with none of the shortcomings I’ve heard attributed to battery power. You might want to contact @Kingrex as he might be working on a “plug and play” setup.
Wil has a 2000 watt inverter. I am also working with 3000 and 5000 watt inverters. The larger inverters do get heavy. But the 5000 should never have the fan turn on. The fan is the issue I am trying to solve for.
FWIW, 5000w/120v = 41 amps power. 3000w/120v = 25 amps. 2000w/120 = 16 amps.
Everything I have heard from numerous people using battery/inverter power is they like a isolation transformer behind the system. That is the favorite out of all the filters. Wil has a Torus RM20 that is feeding his rack.
Wil also has one of my all copper panels as well as very good grounding and the main panel in the house put together properly. He is working with the best electrical system you can install. And the battery/inverter is playing very close. Wil is still evaluating.
I have had enough feedback I am looking at encasing the battery and inverter in enclosures that allow simple cables to connect the pieces. Anyone can put it together without an enclosure, but you have to know what your doing to size the cables and fuses as well as your working with crimping tools, loose cables, and open connections that are electrically live. Wil had issues with sparking when connecting it together. Capacitors that want to charge when you hook it all together.
FWIW, 5000w/120v = 41 amps power. 3000w/120v = 25 amps. 2000w/120 = 16 amps.
Everything I have heard from numerous people using battery/inverter power is they like a isolation transformer behind the system. That is the favorite out of all the filters. Wil has a Torus RM20 that is feeding his rack.
Wil also has one of my all copper panels as well as very good grounding and the main panel in the house put together properly. He is working with the best electrical system you can install. And the battery/inverter is playing very close. Wil is still evaluating.
I have had enough feedback I am looking at encasing the battery and inverter in enclosures that allow simple cables to connect the pieces. Anyone can put it together without an enclosure, but you have to know what your doing to size the cables and fuses as well as your working with crimping tools, loose cables, and open connections that are electrically live. Wil had issues with sparking when connecting it together. Capacitors that want to charge when you hook it all together.
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