LampizatOr Golden Atlantic + TRP

Compared to running from an SSD to Oppo (with a DSD board) to the Directstream, which takes a couple of good quality cables, yours with the TRP involves a lot of gear and a lot more than $1K, including upgrades, clockers, cables, router, perhaps a streamer, server, computer of some kind to run it, etc. This is not at all a criticism of your choices but a comment about how complicated (or maybe complex) developers using different standards have made it to get DSD (and streaming) by having different standards and methods of connection. I'm not sure if I've formulated that correctly, but I think the point is evident.
Can also be made pretty simple by running a USB cable directly from a computer to the TRP. Obviously YMMV on whether this route is "good enough", but many people think it is.

And then there are plenty of great options (like above) from us hobbyists who like to complicate our lives - but often with great results.
 
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Don’t think I’ve seen these tubes posted on here yet. GEC TT21. This particular version are from 1972 with side and top getter. KT88 with top cap. Some people are known to prefer these over the KT88, but I can’t tell a difference between the GEC versions.

E2399D83-7336-40F7-826E-2C5680A18056.jpeg
 
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Isn't this the same video as posted earlier? You mentioned a part II on that one too. Btw, what are the two diffusers you have on the back wall?
 
I'm getting several dB more output from one channel than the other (using test tones). By running the TRP directly from each of its analogue outputs to one active speaker, then the other, I found one speaker louder than the other on both outputs. That seems to eliminate the dac as the source of the problem. The source was a test tone CD in the Oppo. Now I'd like to take the latter out of the equation by using a Win 10 laptop as the source (RCA). I don't know if it has enough output, but what firmware is needed to let foobar work with the TRP?
 
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it’s the Aqua 274B you need for the trp.

Princess 274B mesh plate requires the value of the first capacitor in the power supply no larger than 8 uf (usually it is for headphone amplifier or preamp) vs Aqua 274B allows up to 47uf.
On TRP, fantastic female vocals on Sophia Electric el34-st !
Very realistic and open sound!
Thanks for the tip!
Should I change the RK5u4g cenotron to the blue Sophia 274 ?
 

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I'm getting several dB more output from one channel than the other (using test tones). By running the TRP directly from each of its analogue outputs to one active speaker, then the other, I found one speaker louder than the other on both outputs. That seems to eliminate the dac as the source of the problem. The source was a test tone CD in the Oppo. Now I'd like to take the latter out of the equation by using a Win 10 laptop as the source (RCA). I don't know if it has enough output, but what firmware is needed to let foobar work with the TRP?

Solved by picking up a DVD player from Wal-Mart temporarily. Differences confirmed as the room and the necessary location of components and speakers in it, not components themselves.
 
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Isn't this the same video as posted earlier? You mentioned a part II on that one too. Btw, what are the two diffusers you have on the back wall?

It's a different video. Yes I am catching up. Work has been quite busy and I haven't been able to spend as much time on this. Hopefully soon.
I bought the sound diffusers from Etsy
 
On TRP, fantastic female vocals on Sophia Electric el34-st !
Very realistic and open sound!
Thanks for the tip!
Should I change the RK5u4g cenotron to the blue Sophia 274 ?

I actually have the 274B and love it! My 2 fav combinations in no specific order:

1. Sophia ELectric EL34s with Sophia Electric 274B
2. Sophia ELectric EL34s with USAF 596
 
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Would you agree with the thesis that the Sophia Electric EL34-st is somewhat a cross between 45 and 2A3 triodes in terms of voicing, with a smooth, more brightly lit, nuanced, voluminous presentation?
 
The Philips 4654 have so far turned out to be noticeably clearer but cooler, not emotionally involving for me compared to the Tesla EL51's. I've found that trade off is consistent across tubes: very transparent = cool ("neutral") vs. modest warmth/sweetness. So how about the Sophia EL34: anyone been able to compare similarities and differences with the Tesla?
 
Quick question. I just bought a passive preamp (Townshend Allegri Ref) to replace my NAT signature. In some ways I like the Townshend better (tone, clarity, imaging) in other ways not as much (slightly less full bottom end).

I typically used the TRP at -09db with the NAT because the NAT had a fair amount of gain. Since the Townshend is a passive shouldn't I take the TRP volume control out of the circuit altogether (i.e. 0db setting). I still have more work to do overall to integrate the Townshend. I'm thinking of buying a Totaldac D1 driver for it but that's $6.5k so we're talking $17k for a passive preamp. Ouch...

Thanks all.
 
I prefer an active over inactive preamp (in effect the latter is what the TRP with volume control is when run straight to an amp or active speakers). With the Supratek preamp, I tried different TRP volume settings and found -15 dB works best in my system.
 
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I prefer an active over inactive preamp (in effect the latter is what the TRP with volume control is when run straight to an amp or active speakers). With the Supratek preamp, I tried different TRP volume settings and found -15 dB works best in my system.
I have preferred active preamps in the past as well. I just thought I'd switch it up after reading reviews and the thread here on the Townshend and the Bespoke passives.

In terms of being able to see into the music and the system's ability to sound like live music, the Townshend is better than the NAT. Where it's not as good right now is that kick ass bottom end on 70/80's rock music. With the NAT and the new pair of REL G1s the system had a low end that could knock me out of my chair. Not the case with the Townshend, yet, but I'm still working on sub placement.
 
Quick question. I just bought a passive preamp (Townshend Allegri Ref) to replace my NAT signature.

If you don't mind me asking - what motivated you to make a decision about the replacement? "Just" a goal to acheive better sound quality or were there any other reasons?
 
If you don't mind me asking - what motivated you to make a decision about the replacement? "Just" a goal to acheive better sound quality or were there any other reasons?
Never ending quest for better sound. I like to trade up as financial resources allow. Never had an issue with the NAT. Worked each and every time I turned it on.
 
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Philips EL51 from the 1950's if anyone is interested. They don't turn up too often. Used tubes, but should be good. I've purchased from this seller before.
 
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