I Need Help Understanding

[AudioNoob]

Hello,

So I recently purchased some audio equipment, and am relatively satisfied with the results I have gotten out of them, but I am still looking for a bit more. Where my confusion begins, is I purchased a 4000 watt amplifier to power my 1600 watt 8 ohm speaker, and the amp offer 700 watt RMS for an 8 ohm speaker when bridged, which is what I have it running as now, but it isnt as loud as I'd like it to be, and the bass on the speakers are not pumping as hard as I'd like either. My question would be 1, if I got an equalizer, or preamp (if there is a difference, I'm not sure...) would that make it so I could increase the bass while leaving the horn nice and loud, or would that redistribute the wattage thus lowering the volume, and increasing the bass? Also, I have an old pioneer amplifier, and a couple of 6 ohm speakers, and a logitech subwoofer at my home, and when I set them up, the sound is almost louder, and the subwoofer puts out more bass than my 1600 watt speaker that has 2 12 inch subs in it. I'm just confused also how a receiver that has maybe 300 watts of output is able to make a sound that is very comparable to my more expensive set up that I have. If you can give me any feedback on how a power amp is compared to a home theater A/V receiver that'd be great.

Thanks.

 

[GaryProtein]

Please don't take this the wrong way.

When I read your post, my first thought was WTF, is this a joke, or do you even know what you are talking about.

Then I read your profile and looked up your components and found them at Wal-Mart and Amazon.

I hate to say it, but you bought TOYS masquerading as quality components.

You can't seriously believe what you bought can or will deliver it's stated specs or satisfy your desires.

The manufacturer's stated specifications of thousands of watts in the amplifiers or many hundreds of watts handling capacity in a subwoofer are a fantasy.

 

[Folsom]

I was about to ask what components and speakers we were talking about... Then I read your reply Gary.

Ya, hard to tell if this is a joke.

 

[JackD201]

Harsh Gary.

Audionoob, please list the gear. It appears that the wattage figures you provided are not RMS but rather something like PMPO. In the 80s it was in vogue for some companies to list momentary peak capability and not average power response. This misleading practice is actually government regulated now but I guess some people are still getting away with it. In any case please look at your specifications again. If you are having a hard time deciphering them please post the make and models of your gear and I'll take a look for you. Most curious to me is that instead of doubling power in bridge mode, your power halved.

 

[GaryProtein]

He did list his gear in his profile and that's how I looked it up.

amplifier https://www.amazon.com/Gemini-XGA-4...id=1481588085&sr=8-1&keywords=gemini+xga+4000

speaker https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0013C7ICC/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Both he and the manufacturers listed their specs.

The components he listed are current offerings by the manufacturers.

I don't see $150 speakers handling 1600 watts or $155 amplifiers being able to produce 4000 watts.

 

[NorthStar]

There are many type of receivers; from roughly $150 to $5,000
And the same with power amps...from roughly $200 to $200,000 and +

A subwoofer (two or more is best), I found it helps a lot in many setups.

I think the best way to look @ it is to open the audio component's top covers and look @ the inside: power supply from the power transformer(s) total value (variac), numbers of power transistors per channel, total amount of cubic inches in heat sinks (if not a Class D amp), total capacitance (uF - microfarad capacitors value and their voltage), and overall physical weight.

* What 4,000 Watts amp did you purchase? And what 1,600 Watts speakers do you own? Are they internally powered (the woofers)?
Is the amp a multichannel amp?

What equalizer variety are you referring to, graphic or parametric?

Hey, welcome to WBF! :b
______

Your listed gear:

Gemini XGA 4000
Pyle Heavy Duty PADH212 1600 Watt Speaker
Pioneer Receiver (old)

 

[JackD201]

He did list his gear in his profile and that's how I looked it up.

amplifier https://www.amazon.com/Gemini-XGA-4...id=1481588085&sr=8-1&keywords=gemini+xga+4000

speaker https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0013C7ICC/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Both he and the manufacturers listed their specs.

The components he listed are current offerings by the manufacturers.

I don't see $150 speakers handling 1600 watts or $155 amplifiers being able to produce 4000 watts.

Ok I see the problem now. AudioNoob bought a pro amp and PA speakers. He's probably feeding them with a consumer rated source. The effect of that is like using a low output MC directly into line level. That's why his receiver sounds almost as loud. It is a gain mismatch issue between source and amps. He will need an interface to "step up" from consumer -10dBv to pro +4dBu. Some simple mixers and some external sound cards/pres have this conversion feature.

 

[Folsom]

I would expect the speakers to melt at even 800wRMS like they're rated at. 800w into 8ohm is a lot of heat. They're suppose to be 98/db efficient so they should be ear blistening loud with almost no power at all. They only play well down to 50hz, which means you need an amp and source capable of talking them into producing the stuff below that well. But the 250w into 8ohm's should be plenty. If it's bridged (2 amps?) then it's 700w. Either way I'm sure there's tremendous heat and compression at the drivers anywhere near that.

The amp's input impedance is low, so many sources such as iPods will struggle. Potentiometers of 100k before it will make it even worse.

I would recommend a buffer/preamp between the source and amplifier. One with potential gain might be the best choice like Jack is talking about, since the amp can take 9v input max. That should get it closer to where you want to be. But the speakers are never going to pump very low bass because they are designed to do much below 50hz.