Caig Deoxit G100

Kingrex

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Feb 3, 2019
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A few months ago I entered into discussion with Caig on their Deoxit products. I was looking for an anti oxidant because my panel test have shown that bare copper contacts are superior to any coated contacts I have heard. Maybe the silver is fine. But I don't like tin, so I remove it in my SqD offerings. I don't have any coating on my custom panels. They are all bare copper. The tin is there to inhibit corrosion. But its a horrible conductor. And dissimilar metals galvanically dissolve one another. Generally the noble element eats the less noble. Anyhow, take any noise sniffer and put it by a connection point and they tell you something is going on.

Since my surfaces are bare copper, I wanted to slow the oxidation that builds on the surface. Hence I started looked for a product to apply. I looked at Flitz, Stabilant 22, silver paste and others. In the end I settled on Deoxit by Caig. I like you can sink a computer board into the solution and it wont arch out. Some other solutions are dangerous in they are conductive like silver paste and some commercial deox solution.

In some recent conversations with Mike from Caig I became more convinced I should apply it to my stereo connections. I had bought a bottle of 100% solution.
The 2 oz bottle is about $69.

In the first stage I pulled my power cords and coated the prongs on the male side. I did not have a way to get into the female blades. I might go back and use a toothpick. I also treated the signal RCA connections as well as the ethernet and USB on my server/DAC
Immediately I heard a higher level of clarity and bit more snap and pop. The music was more alive.

FWIW, I am applying the solution by wetting the tip of a Qtip and wiping the surfaces. If you tear most of the cotton off the end, the Qtip will fit into RCA holes.

In the second stage I went all through my speaker connections. My PAP Trio 15 Coax speaker have an external crossover and the connections to the drivers are exposed. I treated all the surfaces. Every connection on the crossover and the contacts on the drivers. I also went over the spades on the speaker cables at the crossover and the amp. This resulted in a more notable jump in dynamics and life. The music is much more alive. In now way do I sense this as artificial. Its very natural and more like my equipment is doing what is suppose to do the best it can.

In the last stage I dove into my phono preamp. I pulled all the tubes and treated the pins. Driver and signal. I did not dump G100 down the pins. You are not suppose to do that. Wipe it on. You want a thin film and that is it. I was not trying to be cautious and keep from touching the glass. In a sense I wanted to know if the higher voltages on the driver would arch over with the Deoxit. I also pulled the cartridge tags and treated the pins. I went back through the RCA and power connections while I was at it. OMG. My vinyl is a magnitude better. In truth, my entire system is a magnitude better. I sat this morning and was captivated through an entire album side. I sort of sat in awe. It is absolutely the finest my stereo has ever performed.

What's really nice about this product is it leaves a thin film that has a very slow evaporation rate. The product is suppose to remain active for 15 year or more. Kind of a one and done. Not something you have to think about every year. Maybe in 5 years it would be a good process to repeat.

In conclusion, I find the Caig Deoxit G100 to be safe. I have used it on breaker, main electrical feeder, signal, USB, ethernet, tube sockets and I have never had a negative experience. I don't see any downside to it. I only see upside. It should help maintain a positive connection that is oxidizing at a much slower rate than previously. I don't believe this product will become a insulator when it starts to dry like over deoxing agents can do. See this section for test reports.
I have heard from enough other professions in associated industry using the product for many year. They are not reporting issues I have heard of.

On the plus side, my stereo absolutely performs at a higher level all around. Its much more engaging. Its more alive. More real. Its much more captivating and holding of your attention when you turn it on. You want to sit and absorb it. You don't want to walk away. I am particularly pleased with how it impacted the speakers and the vinyl. The power connections are important in a different way. In the power chain, and RCA, I noticed more of a clean. There was dynamic gain, but the clean was well pronounced. The phono was a more alive and vibrant gain. And the overall treatment has left the impression the bass is a little more hot. More full, seems to be a little lower in tone and more tight and pronounced. Everything is very balanced. They dynamic boost I got from this was maybe a tad more than I got when I added my Torus transformer. Even though there was a sense of clean, the Torus was a much larger level of gain in this area. Wiping RF out of your system is noise you don't know is there till its gone. And it may be there in a larger amount than you might imagine.

See the 2 links I posted. I like the needle dropper. The spray is going to get all over. I like to use the needle dropper to wet a Qtip. Then I apply it in a thin film. Wipe it right down into the blades of an ethernet or usb. It will be fine. I would not pour from the dropper into these slots. A thin film. Same for tubes. Don't dump it into the socket. Wipe the pins. I am always a little cautious about getting it on the glass. But I have not had an arching issue yet. And other have told me they do this too. You can jam small pin tubes through a piece of paper, then apply if it makes you feel better. This keeps any from making contact across the glass.

On the professional side, I have ordered packs of wipes and small aerosol cans. Any installation I am involved in, I have the electrician wipe the stripped wire leads before landing. I also like the little spray bottles for terminal lugs and large gauge service or feeder wires to penetrate the strands.
I have sprayed this on mains and branch circuit connections. The D series has more agents designed to break down corrosion than the G series. If it new wire, use the G. If its an older service and you want to use product, use the D series. Use the gold needle dropper on your stereo.

Rex
 
Last edited:

DasguteOhr

Well-Known Member
Sep 26, 2013
2,354
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Germany
A few months ago I entered into discussion with Caig on their Deoxit products. I was looking for an anti oxidant because my panel test have shown that bare copper contacts are superior to any coated contacts I have heard. Maybe the silver is fine. But I don't like tin, so I remove it in my SqD offerings. I don't have any coating on my custom panels. They are all bare copper. The tin is there to inhibit corrosion. But its a horrible conductor. And dissimilar metals galvanically dissolve one another. Generally the noble element eats the less noble. Anyhow, take any noise sniffer and put it by a connection point and they tell you something is going on.

Since my surfaces are bare copper, I wanted to slow the oxidation that builds on the surface. Hence I started looked for a product to apply. I looked at Flitz, Stabilant 22, silver paste and others. In the end I settled on Deoxit by Caig. I like you can sink a computer board into the solution and it wont arch out. Some other solutions are dangerous in they are conductive like silver paste and some commercial deox solution.

In some recent conversations with Mike from Caig I became more convinced I should apply it to my stereo connections. I had bought a bottle of 100% solution.
The 2 oz bottle is about $69.

In the first stage I pulled my power cords and coated the prongs on the male side. I did not have a way to get into the female blades. I might go back and use a toothpick. I also treated the signal RCA connections as well as the ethernet and USB on my server/DAC
Immediately I heard a higher level of clarity and bit more snap and pop. The music was more alive.

FWIW, I am applying the solution by wetting the tip of a Qtip and wiping the surfaces. If you tear most of the cotton off the end, the Qtip will fit into RCA holes.

In the second stage I went all through my speaker connections. My PAP Trio 15 Coax speaker have an external crossover and the connections to the drivers are exposed. I treated all the surfaces. Every connection on the crossover and the contacts on the drivers. I also went over the spades on the speaker cables at the crossover and the amp. This resulted in a more notable jump in dynamics and life. The music is much more alive. In now way do I sense this as artificial. Its very natural and more like my equipment is doing what is suppose to do the best it can.

In the last stage I dove into my phono preamp. I pulled all the tubes and treated the pins. Driver and signal. I did not dump G100 down the pins. You are not suppose to do that. Wipe it on. You want a thin film and that is it. I was not trying to be cautious and keep from touching the glass. In a sense I wanted to know if the higher voltages on the driver would arch over with the Deoxit. I also pulled the cartridge tags and treated the pins. I went back through the RCA and power connections while I was at it. OMG. My vinyl is a magnitude better. In truth, my entire system is a magnitude better. I sat this morning and was captivated through an entire album side. I sort of sat in awe. It is absolutely the finest my stereo has ever performed.

What's really nice about this product is it leaves a thin film that has a very slow evaporation rate. The product is suppose to remain active for 15 year or more. Kind of a one and done. Not something you have to think about every year. Maybe in 5 years it would be a good process to repeat.

In conclusion, I find the Caig Deoxit G100 to be safe. I have used it on breaker, main electrical feeder, signal, USB, ethernet, tube sockets and I have never had a negative experience. I don't see any downside to it. I only see upside. It should help maintain a positive connection that is oxidizing at a much slower rate than previously. I don't believe this product will become a insulator when it starts to dry like over deoxing agents can do. See this section for test reports.
I have heard from enough other professions in associated industry using the product for many year. They are not reporting issues I have heard of.

On the plus side, my stereo absolutely performs at a higher level all around. Its much more engaging. Its more alive. More real. Its much more captivating and holding of your attention when you turn it on. You want to sit and absorb it. You don't want to walk away. I am particularly pleased with how it impacted the speakers and the vinyl. The power connections are important in a different way. In the power chain, and RCA, I noticed more of a clean. There was dynamic gain, but the clean was well pronounced. The phono was a more alive and vibrant gain. And the overall treatment has left the impression the bass is a little more hot. More full, seems to be a little lower in tone and more tight and pronounced. Everything is very balanced. They dynamic boost I got from this was maybe a tad more than I got when I added my Torus transformer. Even though there was a sense of clean, the Torus was a much larger level of gain in this area. Wiping RF out of your system is noise you don't know is there till its gone. And it may be there in a larger amount than you might imagine.

See the 2 links I posted. I like the needle dropper. The spray is going to get all over. I like to use the needle dropper to wet a Qtip. Then I apply it in a thin film. Wipe it right down into the blades of an ethernet or usb. It will be fine. I would not pour from the dropper into these slots. A thin film. Same for tubes. Don't dump it into the socket. Wipe the pins. I am always a little cautious about getting it on the glass. But I have not had an arching issue yet. And other have told me they do this too. You can jam small pin tubes through a piece of paper, then apply if it makes you feel better. This keeps any from making contact across the glass.

On the professional side, I have ordered packs of wipes and small aerosol cans. Any installation I am involved in, I have the electrician wipe the stripped wire leads before landing. I also like the little spray bottles for terminal lugs and large gauge service or feeder wires to penetrate the strands.
I have sprayed this on mains and branch circuit connections. The D series has more agents designed to break down corrosion than the G series. If it new wire, use the G. If its an older service and you want to use product, use the D series. Use the gold needle dropper on your stereo.

Rex
Amazing set i use it over 5 years, every 6 months cleanup party here, from cartridgepins to loudspeaker.

Everything included for cleaning from fine to coarse. Brushes, cloths, spray for gold or silver contacts. you hear easy a difference after that. and it's a good feeling to know that everything is clean.
 

Kingrex

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Feb 3, 2019
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It's pretty cool stuff. A lot of bang for the buck with low invested time and money.
 
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Kingrex

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DasguteOhr

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Sep 26, 2013
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Do you really hear a big boost with reapplying every 6 months.
I'm a smoker, I have to clean it often, the nicotine creeps in everywhere. I think once a year would also be enough pure silver plugs do not oxidize so quickly once they have been cleaned with them. You can hear this very clearly with the tonearm wiring, the dynamic increases and the background noise level is lower. I haven't measured it yet, trust my ears. I will use it permanently, I am convinced of it.
Exsample pure silverplated powerplugs after one year not use 20220821_080914.jpg
 

Kingrex

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In a way I feel this supports the idea how importand good overall electrical transfer is to overall music reproduction. It's a foundation in audio that impacts everything. All to often It's treated as second nature when its a first principle.

I am still absolutely shocked how improved my system plays now. Dare I say my system, even in a bad room, is starting to sound mature. There is no other way to say it than it's shocking good. Today I am aware the highs are more crisp and filled out. More clear and intelligible. I can hear a lot deeper, but I'm not working at it. It comes to you. And the bass. Its hard to explain. I have John kemmer Brazilia playing. The bass sound so more like I remember jamming with friends in the basement.
 
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kennyb123

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Do you really hear a big boost with reapplying every 6 months.
I clean contacts annually using Deoxit D100L followed by G100L and have been doing so for maybe 20 years. I can’t say that it really moved the needle much. I think regular cleaning tends to reduce the sonic impact.

I not too long ago scored a small bottle of with HFCs most recent contact conditioner. Applying this after cleaning with D100L brought a really nice improvement. That product was over-hyped IMHO, but I’m still glad I was able to grab some before they went out of business.
 

MarkusBarkus

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...I believe The Cable Company sorted out the business-end of the HFC issues, and this solution is available from them as:

Nano Particle Solution NPS-Q45T Contact Enhancer​

 
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Kingrex

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Be careful if its conductive.
 

Alrainbow

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Very good read Rex a good reminder and I’m buying the product now.
it’s great how kind you are to share this and other advice
and to test things as well
thanks
 
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Solypsa

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www.solypsa.com
Great 'back to the basics' reminders and basically free compared to what we are usually talking about ;)
 
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kennyb123

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...I believe The Cable Company sorted out the business-end of the HFC issues, and this solution is available from them as:

Nano Particle Solution NPS-Q45T Contact Enhancer​

Interesting as there is now what appears to be a manufacturer named Contact Enhancer.


Can you expound upon “sorted out the business end”? Did they buy out the assets?
 

Kingrex

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...I believe The Cable Company sorted out the business-end of the HFC issues, and this solution is available from them as:

Nano Particle Solution NPS-Q45T Contact Enhancer​

Do not use this product. From the manufacturer website:

Everything in NPS-Q45T was tested, tried, researched and well thought out from the base ingredients that offer protection from corrosion to advanced magnetic materials and the top nano-particles such as graphene nano-tubes, silver nano particles and various other materials.

Take care in application as to not cause shorts or unwanted resistance from excess material being applied and crossing dielectric boundaries intended in many connections.


I know what I am talking about. I have done plenty of research and drilled many people with questions. You do not want a product that can cross Dielectric Boundaries. Do not use it or you will end up damaging your equipment or possibly blowing an electrical panel apart. I have seen a 200A panel explode from a dielectric short across the top of the bus. I was about 25 feet away. The sound was chilling. It was not a boom. It was a sick crackle. It sent shivers in my spine. The flash was about 3 feet tall and 3 feet deep. Anything in front of it would have been coated in molten copper. I'm sure you would be blind and permanently disfigured in an awful way.

Use Deoxit. There are non flammable versions and it won't arch. I have used it on 3 preamps with driver tubes that I assume are in the 500 volt range. If its not crossing at that voltage, it won't on lower voltage.
 
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kennyb123

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I know what I am talking about. I have done plenty of research and drilled many people with questions. You do not want a product that can cross Dielectric Boundaries. Do not use it or you will end up damaging your equipment or possibly blowing an electrical panel apart.
I hear what you are saying but it seems to me that their guidance is achievable. If it‘s applied carefully to just the metal contacts the risk should be minimized. The stuff is so darn expensive I was very sparing in my application of it. I was also careful to not apply it places where it might creep and do harm.

I might change my mind if you could give examples of how it might end up doing the harm you warned of. Where exactly would applying it put one at such great risk?
 

MarkusBarkus

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Can you expound upon “sorted out the business end”? Did they buy out the assets?
...I have no inside baseball on HFC or its products. However, I have read comments on The Cable Company site, and in marketing email multiple times re: issues with HFC delivery times. At one point, I recall reading content separating this contact enhancer from the cable products.

Currently, a search for HFC results in the contact enhancer product and the pic has the HFC logo; the link for info goes to a different page, where the pic has the "Contact Enhancer" labeling.

You can find archived HFC pages on The Cable Company site, but you cannot purchase cables. If you dig around, you can find a "Contact Enhancer" website. The Cable Company is listed as the US distributor.

I have used Caig products. I have not used the above mentioned Contact Enhancer, but I am a bit leery of anything I could add that would be "permanent" in nature. That said, The Cable Company is a reliable source for audio products.
 
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Kingrex

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I started a thread about the Caig Deoxit. I have done more than read some overblown hyped up crap advertizing as seen on the NPS -Q45 website. What a load of BS advertizing.

If anyone wants to use NPS-Q45 go right ahead. Start your own thread and share with the audience your experience. I hope your honest and you tell us what a mistake it was and how much time and money it cost to remove it. And make sure to include long term tested noting evaporation and hardeneing of the carrier paste that change from a dialectric to a insulator. And again, how much time and money it cost to remove.

My business is built around finding the highest performance possible while doing as much as one can to not only adhere to relevant code, but to also be safe. I will not promote a product that is likely to end up damaging equipment or result in catastrophic failure that could harm people such as NPS-Q45 will.

Don't use NPS-'Q45 That is my professional recommendion.
 

kennyb123

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If anyone wants to use NPS-Q45 go right ahead. Start your own thread and share with the audience your experience. I hope your honest and you tell us what a mistake it was and how much time and money it cost to remove it. And make sure to include long term tested noting evaporation and hardeneing of the carrier paste that change from a dialectric to a insulator. And again, how much time and money it cost to remove.

Thank you for sharing your professional advice.
 
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Kingrex

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I have already had people see this thread and PM me to say they tried silver paste type products and ended up with big problems and hours spent trying to clean it off. They use Deoxit now and love it.

I just can not get behind anything that might melt, run and cause major issues. I wont us it anywhere. And how would someone apply it to interconnects, ethernet, usb, tube pins, power IEC (which the PM to me was used on). The stuff is an issue waiting to happen. I was interested in Stabilant 22. They told me their product was not rated for over 100 volts so don't use it.

The Deoxit is showing itself to be very effective and very safe. I had a nice Vodka in me last night. I decided I had to hear my tape so I got out my QTips and needle dropper. I did my Otari 5050, my external NAB/IEC and my Shiit Valhalla 2 preamp. The Valhalla has 4 tubes in it. I'm sure the vodka helped decrease my coordination. I applied to G100 to 3 power sockets, 8 RCA, 2 pre and 2 driver tubes. The result was an OMG, my Led Z is just astounding.

I am not being sloppy in what I apply. Its only a thin film. I am also not being overly precise. I did get some small amount of product on the tube glass. I had to have. And I know I got it on the inside of the 120 volt power cord IEC inlet. I have had 0 issues. I have done 12 tubes now. 11 x 120 volt power sockets. 26 or so RCA plugs, my ethernet and usb. And both those were wipe right across all the terminals. I was not trying to apply to only the blades. Every step has been a gain in performance.

Why screw with a silver based paste that requires surgical precision to apply. And does melt and migrate.
Sorry to be so adamant and know it all ish. I do at times get into a, it my way or the highway. The way people ground and the use of products I find hazardous ruffle my feathers and I will be very vocal if I feel its unsafe.
 
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kennyb123

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Kirkland, WA
Sorry to be so adamant and know it all ish. I do at times get into a, it my way or the highway. The way people ground and the use of products I find hazardous ruffle my feathers and I will be very vocal if I feel its unsafe.
Thanks for sharing that additional insight. Now I get it and I absolutely respect where you are coming from.
 

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