I just replaced Q1, Q2 and D3 to solve my previous problem (after shorting out the target lamp). I now however have the problem of low torque. The platter spins up slower than my other deck (about 1/4 of a rotation slower) and then takes less pressure on the platter to stop. When the platter is stopped (under pressure ) the red strobe light seems to flicker? any suggestions what this may be - could it be one of the IC's or just a brake adjustment needed? thanks
Please Help - Technics 1210 Stroble Flicker and Low torque
- Thread starter Robmorris
- Start date
Can you post or email the schematic, or a link to it?
Flickering when stopped, as it when it stops normally, or when you manually stop it?
Flickering when stopped, as it when it stops normally, or when you manually stop it?
I've been using SLs for almost 30 years and haven't seen a strobe flicker. As for the Start/Stop, I'd check the lubrication in the bearing well and the breaking.
View attachment ve_technics_sl-1200_1210_mk2_service.pdf <- theres the schematic
It only flickers slightly when i manually stop it - other than then the strobe is fine. I don't think its lubrication as it only just suddenly happened - it was working fine before so it is most likely to be circuitry
It only flickers slightly when i manually stop it - other than then the strobe is fine. I don't think its lubrication as it only just suddenly happened - it was working fine before so it is most likely to be circuitry
The transistors you replaced are in the supply. It looks like IC101 drives the motor. Have you performed the measurements listed in the service manual, including the main voltages and speed control feedback and brake circuits?
Before doing all that I would follow Jack's advice to check the motor's lubrication and make sure it just isn't old/dried/missing grease... May have been marginal before and the down time allowed it to dry out.
Before doing all that I would follow Jack's advice to check the motor's lubrication and make sure it just isn't old/dried/missing grease... May have been marginal before and the down time allowed it to dry out.
Pardon the intrusion. IIRC, the Panasonic/technics series of DD/TT drive systems are capacitively coupled to the coils? Thus on older tables (which they all are now), a thorough changing out of coupling and feedback electrolytic capacitors is generally required. Besides basic issue of the oil potentially being a fault point.
Ok, looked at the schematic. Not quite right, I was. IMO and IME, if oiling is fine, then my experience with about a dozen technics tables tells me that putting in all new electrolytic caps can refresh the operation back to what is that of a 'new' state. That the drive system's stability and operation, in the long term and in partial fault type situation, is generally tied to dried out electrolytic capacitors.
going back and re-reading the symptoms again, it definitely sounds like the electrolytic caps are dried out. That is the exact kind of behavior that happens with dried out old capacitors in a technics turntable.
The next thing that happens fairly soon after this.. is that the main drive IC can 'pop', due to the stressing.
Ok, looked at the schematic. Not quite right, I was. IMO and IME, if oiling is fine, then my experience with about a dozen technics tables tells me that putting in all new electrolytic caps can refresh the operation back to what is that of a 'new' state. That the drive system's stability and operation, in the long term and in partial fault type situation, is generally tied to dried out electrolytic capacitors.
going back and re-reading the symptoms again, it definitely sounds like the electrolytic caps are dried out. That is the exact kind of behavior that happens with dried out old capacitors in a technics turntable.
The next thing that happens fairly soon after this.. is that the main drive IC can 'pop', due to the stressing.
But surely if this behaviour happened almost overnight after shorting out the target lamp then it is unlikely to be any 'ageing' problems - caps/lube etc.
Could it be the diode I fitted was slightly different (although im pretty sure has same specs just diff manufacturer)?
Could it be the diode I fitted was slightly different (although im pretty sure has same specs just diff manufacturer)?
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