DaVa FC-A1 a field coil contender

[iaxel]

Makes you wonder if there exist a parallel WBF in the Deepweb where AI agents debate and argue about things like, Tubes vs SS, Analog vs Digital, Horns vs Dynamic drivers and what is Natural Sound....

Anyway, back to Dava.

 

[djsina2]

Grok says Lyra Atlas SL.

 

[WBF Team]

Just a friendly reminder, A.I. generated posts/responses are not allowed on the WBF. Some posts have been deleted.

Tom

 

[spiritofmusic]

Looking forwards to the first actual AI audiophile, and seeing how pretentious they are.
Tough task competing with the real ones, lol.

 

[bonzo75]

Darius posted this on FB:

“The Dava phono cartridge’s field-coil (FC) generates about 1.3–1.4 watts of heat.
I always recommend using a metal headshell weighing 15 grams, especially if the tonearm is made of wood or carbon composite.
If the tonearm is entirely made of metal, the headshell can be up to half as light.

When using an infrared thermometer, set the emissivity to 0.85 if the cartridge body is black.
Ideally, the surface temperature of the cartridge should not exceed 30–35 °C.

Wood is beautiful, but it doesn’t dissipate heat well, so current must be significantly reduced, which results in a lower cartridge output.
Please follow my recommendation and use metal components.
A 1.3-watt coil without cooling can easily reach 100 °C.”

 

[DasguteOhr]

Darius posted this on FB:

“The Dava phono cartridge’s field-coil (FC) generates about 1.3–1.4 watts of heat.
I always recommend using a metal headshell weighing 15 grams, especially if the tonearm is made of wood or carbon composite.
If the tonearm is entirely made of metal, the headshell can be up to half as light.

When using an infrared thermometer, set the emissivity to 0.85 if the cartridge body is black.
Ideally, the surface temperature of the cartridge should not exceed 30–35 °C.

Wood is beautiful, but it doesn’t dissipate heat well, so current must be significantly reduced, which results in a lower cartridge output.
Please follow my recommendation and use metal components.
A 1.3-watt coil without cooling can easily reach 100 °C.”

Maybe use an aluminum heatsink from model making. Simply take two longer screws and drill two holes in it and screw them to the metal headshell.

 

[christensenleif@msn.com]

I have no problems with alu headshells

 

[Kcin]

I have no problems with alu headshells

Agreed, there is no issue or need for more heatsinking with Al headshells.

 

[Eugene Komissarov]

I have no problems with alu headshells

Or magnesium or any material with good thermal conductivity. In other words, if the material feels cool when you hold it in your hand, it's good.

 

[crosswind]

I use a magnesium 15 gr head shell, recommended by Darius. Works great with the FC-A1.

 

[Kcin]

The only advice on head shells for the DaVa is that if they are metal ensure that 'if' they are painted- and some the aluminum coloured paint is quite convincing- you must sand off the paint in order for conductivity to the cartridge for proper grounding and best heat transfer.

 

[Kcin]

Arrived today

 

[Eugene Komissarov]

you must sand off the paint

I recommend checking first if the problem exists. And only then sanding. Since the FC coil is grounded in the power supply on one side, it itself is a good screen.

 

[christensenleif@msn.com]

Arrived today

hi
any impressions yet?

 

[Kcin]

hi
any impressions yet?

I have not yet mounted the cartridge- have to move the Koetsu Jade /FR66s out and I am going to start this one on the FR64s- I have begun-- not yet done. Will report back soon.