Pure Audio Project upgrades and tweaks

Starting this thread to discuss Pure Audio Project open baffle speakers, upgrades and tweaks. @Kingrex - if you have had both the horns and Coax10, I would be interested in hearing how they compare. And I copied your earlier post below.

What cables upgrades did you use? And can you share a picture of where you located the crossover? Is it attached to something else, or sitting on the floor? I was wondering about the height of the midrange/tweeter and if I should rake the front up. My system will be the Trio15 Coax10, Playback Designs MPS-8 source and Pass Int-25 amp. I'm still waiting for my walnut baffles to ship from RJ Millworkers.

You have to get the updated speaker cables. Its critical.

And , you have to separate the crossover from the frame. Again critical.

If the crossover is touching the frame, the music is very smeared from the intense physical vibration.

If you use stock, instead of upgraded cables, you loose life, air and bass. Less coherent.

The speaker is very good with these tweeks. You don't need to futz with any caps or reaistors with the Coax crossover.

You need to be patient. They take 500 hours like any speaker to break in. 2000 or a year to really be there. I actually put my coax in the basement connected to a class D amp and laptop for week and let it rip sitting on the floor. I would go dowm 3 or 4 times a day to switxh the album and volume.

Also, mine sit on a 9 inch tall very heavy block of wood that sits on fiberglass insulation. A rug would also work. Massive improvement in bass. Just shocking. And, it raises the center of the coax much closer to ear height. Otherwise its too low and like sitting in a balcony.

The fabric over the top keeps the sun from striking the driver. That is all its for.
PAP-thread.jpg
 
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You can change all parts at beyma coax its professionell driver , you need only a other 1" diaphargma.;)
If you want to try the Fostex, remove the diaphragm and you will have only a 10" driver.
1" diaphragms are available from many manufacturers in all imaginable materials. Aluminum, berylium, titanium, polydyne, etc. Only the terminals must fit in the pressure chamber lid.

View attachment 155087

I use 1" horndriver without the lid , then it works as dipole. Advantage reduces distortion that occurs in the pressure chamberView attachment 155088
The image of your driver seems to be a CD for the tweeter that has its own magnet.
I sort of wondered what would be the issue of having a second magnet. As long as the bolt holes fit. I guess a spacer could be made to accommodate holes. But, the diaphragm is going to be further back. Possibly inducing timing issues???

What if I used that Fostex and used heavy duty double sided tape to mount it to the back of the 10" driver. I would of course find some additional way to secure it.

If I just changed the diaphragm, would I get much of a performance gain??? Or just another sound. Everything else would remain the same. The magnet, wiring etc???

I need my new microphone before I do anything else. I want accurate measurements.
 
Looking at this graph the graph is very uneven in many places.
the 8 to 10k might be a resonant peak
the fall off does seem fast.
But a typical room sweep does not always need to be flat.
one thing to start is on axis 3 feet back to confirm the output of the driver
Could be Al. I wasn't able to find my pile or resistors yesterday. They are buried in the work. I have another place to look. I think it has always fallen off. But the peak could be the room. I can try another sweep in front of the speaker and mute one channel. See what happens. I don't have them toed in much. Maybe 5*. But that may do something to create a peak.

I am ok with the roughtness. What I really wanted was a gentle slope with a high on the bass and slight down on the treble. At least I want to try that.
 
The image of your driver seems to be a CD for the tweeter that has its own magnet.
I sort of wondered what would be the issue of having a second magnet. As long as the bolt holes fit. I guess a spacer could be made to accommodate holes. But, the diaphragm is going to be further back. Possibly inducing timing issues???
Beyma have two models of a 10" coax driver diffrent year of build. No timing issuses the way is too small
What if I used that Fostex and used heavy duty double sided tape to mount it to the back of the 10" driver. I would of course find some additional way to secure it.
Bad idea, you're robbing the Fostex of all its strength, resolution, and beam angle. Drill a hole in the coax baffle and push it through flush. Make the hole a bit larger for a gasket around the Fostex.
If I just changed the diaphragm, would I get much of a performance gain??? Or just another sound. Everything else would remain the same. The magnet, wiring etc???
Different materials can make your ear feel like it is playing louder
I need my new microphone before I do anything else. I want accurate measurements.
Best idea today correct measurement 1m distance height of the coax
I've tried all sorts of drivers in Open Baffle last 8 years , but no standard driver has made me completely happy in the long run. All my drivers have been modified, for example, drilling holes in the magnet to change the TS parameter or QTS value.20230730_174453.jpg
 
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I was watching a video on Von Schwikert speakers. They use multiple tweeters. I may try to pull down the hump, then add a second dipole tweeter.
 

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