There is so my hype about cables out there these days that it's just amazing how it continues to exist, despite the laws of electricity. Speaker cable is way shorter than one electrical wavelength at audio frequencies. Therefore it doesn't behave like an RF transmission line where matching and VSWR, impedance, etc., become critical and paramount to successful operation.
Any decent-sized conductor, big enough to carry the current for the damping of the drivers, will pass all of the audio bandwidth unharmed, over the modest distances in a home installation.
The most noticeable difference is with undersized cable. If the impedance rises sufficiently to reduce damping, certain types of speakers will sound different and their impulse response may suffer. The cable's job is to deliver sufficient current to counter the back EMF from the woofers. Any heavy-duty 12awg or heavier cable will do the job for most home hi-fi systems of average power levels. A heavy cable effectively reduces the distance from the amp outputs to the speakers. Any resistance in the cable reduces the amplifier's control over the woofers, making some systems sound 'fat' or have 'overhang' (resonance/ringing) bass.
Any difference in cables becomes measureable at RF frequencies, but we don't listen to RF as it's not part of the audio spectrum. I do have a scientific paper somewhere in my archives, which makes the case for differences in cables, showing how complex waveforms emerge differently, but the differences are in the megahertz region and this way beyond the range of speakers and hearing.
I believe that folks are wasting enormous sums on 'boutique' wires for this reason. That said, I will relate the following anecdote:
Back in the 1970s, we had a pair of stereo speakers in a large cafeteria, fed by a stereo receiver in a storage room about 170' away. The cable run was about 200' as it followed the contours of the walls instead of a diagonal run. It was #24awg solid strand phone wire! Two years later, during some renovations, the phone wire was replaced with 16awg zip cord. The next time I heard the system play, it was as if they'd added tweeters. There was a dramatic increase in high frequency output. The reason for this was two extremes: the long run and the extreme thinness of the wire conductors. The skin effect, distributed capacitance and impedance of the cable was very high in this case, so the difference was obvious when those parameters were reduced.
I myself went from 14awg twisted pair to #8awg battery cable wire for my woofers. Yes, I heard a difference. There was less bass after the cable upgrade. The drivers were following the amplifier signal more faithfully because the cables could carry the current much better, thus reducing mechanical overshoot, thereby reducing amplitude at some bass frequencies.
This is all that is needed:
The test of a good cable is to use a dual trace oscilloscope. Input A measures the output terminals of the amplifier. Input B measures the other end of the cable, at the speaker terminals. Run the scope in sum mode with channel B inverted. If both signals null out, then your cable is delivering all the music presented at the amplifier terminals.
Now, another tidbit, about valve amplifiers: Valves have a unique property because the Back EMF from the loudspeakers finds its way into the amplifier's feedback loop and gets fed through the amplifier again, as a subtle echo, or reverberance. This is one of the key reasons why tubes have a 'pleasant' sound (I didn't say 'accurate' because this phenomena departs from the input signal of the program source). The other, more commonly known reason is that the damping factor is very, very low, typically only 1 in a matched impedance transformer-based output. The resonances and response anomalies of speaker systems are set free with this type of drive, producing very warm, resonant sounds, particularly in the bass region. Some people like this as a matter of taste. 32 years ago, I had a supervisor who had a pair of Altec Voice of the Theater speakers that he swore (to him) sounded better than anything else he'd ever heard, anywhere. He played them for me one evening, when I visited him to look at a reel to reel deck that he was selling. I was unimpressed. They lacked any meaningful high end, bass in the bottom two octaves was completely absent and the rest of the system response was like a rollercoaster. Ugh. I have another friend who has two Klipsch horns dating back to about the late 1950s. Similar situation there too. But he is happy with them to this day.
I went through my horn phase in the 60s-70s, building all sorts of horn-loaded contraptions from various plans I'd obtained over the years. They were loud, but sounded awful. At one point, I was 100% horns, from top to bottom. It sounded loud and just awful to listen to. Gradually, I made my way back to more conventional systems with direct-firing drivers. I became very much aware of time alignment of LF, MF and HF drivers to obtain the most realistic transient attacks. I began to design speaker systems with a straight-line approach to driver placement. Subwoofer placement matters. In fact it matters so much, I decided to have a whole array of subwoofers all in line with the rest of the drivers. I like a nice, clear, open, spacious sound, like electrostatics or planars, but I like it to go very loud, too. It can be achieved, but cables would be the last thing on my list toward that goal. My point is, cable type and brand has a miniscule effect, compared to other things you can do, like positioning speakers and subs, not to mention acoustic treatments. The difference between sounding like a concert PA system and a pair of Wilson Sophias can be the result of going from improper or no room treatment, to good room treatment. No speaker will sound good if there's a 40dB swing in amplitude caused by the room's reflections (comb filtering). Just get the cable that will carry all of the current and you'll be fine.