For a decently designed speaker, one doesn't need a damping factor of more than 10.Well tubes have none to speak of , Yet …!
For a decently designed speaker, one doesn't need a damping factor of more than 10.Well tubes have none to speak of , Yet …!
No, many speakers are simply underdamped to get max bass out of them rather than good bass...Hahaha, with a little addiction alcohol is good too …!
An over damped speaker is not a decent design its a necessity for any amplifier with no damping control ..!
No, many speakers are simply underdamped to get max bass out of them rather than good bass...
I can't prove this but I have the suspicion that the darTZeel amplifier is not the right answer if one has to drive the signal through complex crossovers or control and damp big woofers, or both.
Obviously your system does not present these concerns to your 468s.
two reviewers used 468's with big Wilsons for years. seemed to make them happy.....and never any report of issues.
no doubt other SS amps might present alternate strengths with those big speakers. but for musical touch hard to better the darts with SS.
You can put your hand on the cooling body once it's been on for an hour. I'll buy you a meal if you can hold out for more than 10 secondsVery doubtful 100 watts class A Bias …
VS Soy milk clip clip Audio ….Clubbing each other with Big Foot monster amps again? May the heaviest, most grid sucking, precious metal amplifier backed by the greatest grand theories and bulging wallets, covered by bloody hair and skull bits, win. It's the anabolic steroid competition of audio.
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What is the theory??In another example of implementation trumping theory the Soulution 717 with lots of feedback, I believe, might be the most tube like amplifier I've ever heard (other than the First Watt SIT-3).
That is news to me. I think that depends very much on the design so can't be generalized.Very strange , you must be talking small wattage , the BOM on equivalent wattage tube amp is immensely greater than that of an SS amp ..
Actually it was known even in the 1950s that some speakers required 20:1 although that value has not been exceeded.For a decently designed speaker, one doesn't need a damping factor of more than 10.
I normally unscrew the wooden crate to get them out, especially because most AC products are way too heavy to lift out.As expected (because I knew the design from the demo unit) the box is wedged deeply into the crate. I don't see how I can lift it out myself without risking ripping some foam or cracking the Styrofoam. I'm going to unscrew a side plank to remove the box.
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That was the only way I saw to do it. Thank you for confirming the propriety of my plan!I normally unscrew the wooden crate to get them out, especially because most AC products are way too heavy to lift out.
As expected (because I knew the design from the demo unit) the box is wedged deeply into the crate. I don't see how I can lift it out myself without risking ripping some foam or cracking the Styrofoam. I'm going to unscrew a side plank to remove the box.
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if i was faced with that situation (which i have), i might carefully tip it on it's end and allow the unit to tip forward and slide something (that would not harm it) to hold it up out of the wedge, then place the crate back down flat. so it's not wedged inside the four surfaces. then maybe i could manhandle it out. might be a 2 person process.Maybe turn it upside down and shake it or bang it from the top so it slides loose?
is the foam glued to the sides? or is it loose? either way there is a solution that doesn't require power toolsAs expected (because I knew the design from the demo unit) the box is wedged deeply into the crate. I don't see how I can lift it out myself without risking ripping some foam or cracking the Styrofoam. I'm going to unscrew a side plank to remove the box.
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