magneplanars

My wife has given me the go-ahead on the 1.7s. Will be adding these at the end of the month. Probably have the new KT120s in the amp by then as well.

Congrats! The 1.7's are ridiculously good speakers. You and your wife will be VERY pleased.

Once you place your order, please let us know what kind of delivery time is involved.

After you have them set up, please post a review in the evaluation thread.
 
replace maggy input w/ 5way binding post

while connecting my monoblock amp with a 10 inch piece of speaker wire I changed out the wire with a different 10 inch piece of speaker wire and heard a distinct difference. Amazing I say! 10 inches!
I'm now thinking about those cheesy steel input things on my 3.7s. Has anyone replaced these? Was there an improvement in the sound? Was it worth the teardown to install new binding posts?
 
Good value for money vis-a-vis performance. Their flagship 20.1 at $12,500 is just a mere fraction of today's top speaker designs under the $200,000 mark. I'm essentially 'glued' to my MG 2.7QRs for the last 12 years.

+1! A friend of mine drives the 20.1. They are truly great, and puts a huge question mark on current price development!
e

I for myself have found satisfaction with Merlin VSM and TSM's.
..if you are looking for the best, do so within yourself.
 
it seems that they are quite affordable and easily driven. one can start with MMGs and a sub and be quite happy like me. they do a lot of things right, they just take up a bit of room. theres plenty of models to upgrade to if one feels the little ones arent up to the job.

..I have just spoken out for them too; there are however alternatives, mainly in magnetostates I would probably go for the Ambience speakers, they are WAY more efficient, which means your amplification will be easy, another friend drives them with his Bernings, and reaches an even better result than me with my Berning/Merlin, albeit with a better room..
 
+1! A friend of mine drives the 20.1. They are truly great, and puts a huge question mark on current price development!
e

I for myself have found satisfaction with Merlin VSM and TSM's.
..if you are looking for the best, do so within yourself.

The 20.7 which replace the 20.1 are priced about the same ... AN even BIGGER question mark on other manufacturers price development:confused:

After much pondering .. I am staying my Maggies .. :)
 
I have a pair of tympani 1D's that need the bass mid panels in both speakers replaced ( already replaced the tweeter panels some years back ) they have been packed up for many years and I am wondering if they are worth spending the money on to bring them up to scratch? If so what would be the best way to go about the panel replacement/rebuild, are the components still available from MAGNEPAN and the crossover components need replacing as well as they are shot and I was considering an outboard unit direct wired to each panel.

Any suggestions would be welcome as to the best course of action to take.
 
I have a pair of tympani 1D's that need the bass mid panels in both speakers replaced ( already replaced the tweeter panels some years back ) they have been packed up for many years and I am wondering if they are worth spending the money on to bring them up to scratch? If so what would be the best way to go about the panel replacement/rebuild, are the components still available from MAGNEPAN and the crossover components need replacing as well as they are shot and I was considering an outboard unit direct wired to each panel.

Any suggestions would be welcome as to the best course of action to take.

Talk with the folks at Magnepan and they'll give you an honest appraisal. Sure they still have the parts and maybe they've improved a thing or two over the years of doing the repairs. Biggest issue will be the shipping as UPS/Fed ex is not always kind to the speakers :(
 
try bring the wires from inside the speakers on the binding posts by drilling a hole to pass them through,then wrap the wire on the outside of the binding post through to hole and secure it together with the wire from the amp together to the binding post on the speaker,sonically better than new binding posts.(p.s. replace a internal wire from posts to panels with occ copper wire for a major improvement!!!!
 
Update on the 1.7s. They are simply wonderful but are taking a while to break in. Steve Guttenberg told me to expect 300 hours at least, maybe 500. I think I have around 200 hours on them now.

The sound is a huge step up from the already very good 1.6s. Huge soundstage, great dynamics, super high resolution, very accurate timbres on the string instruments I record.

I'm pretty much over the moon about these new panels. Amp is still being upgraded to be done in next few weeks. Now to focus on the preamp.
 
I can't wait to hear the 20.7's Frantz and as you say for no price change between the 20.1 and 20.7, how great is that

Very little change from 1.6s to 1.7s. I think they went from $1,850 to $1,995. Crossover alone has about 2X better parts. For another hundred I got the silver aluminum "stiles".
 
20.1 = $12,995 USD
20.7 = $13,850 USD

Wendell told me around 100 hours ages ago; my dealer told me around a week of playing a few hours a day. 300 - 500 seems like a long time, but obviously I have no experience with the new models (but I keep hoping!) I would have thought the QR break-in period would have been shorter than for the previous panels but admit I have not put a lot of thought into it.
 
Hi peechus,

Your post number 63 caught my attention. In my own experience, there is so much hidden performance in Magnepans. On my own pair, my friend has changed the frame, changed the wire from the crossover to the panel and even relocated the crossover to outside of the speaker, changed the binding post, and changed the base. These were all done at the same time and to my ears, have definitely improved the sound of my magnepan.
 
mprovementsmagnaplanar 1d mods

one of the biggest improvements to the speakers you can make is getting rid of the fuse,use occ or silver wire.all binding posts color tmanhe sound,the idea is to remove things that will be in the signal path other than wire,you can use the binding post to bind the 2 wires together but do not run the signal through the post itself.that is why you bring the wire from behing the post and attach it together with speaker wire in front of binding post,i hope i am making my self clear!by the way use solid core wire when re-wiring the maggies internally,you can parrell as many as you like,start with 22 or 20 gauge.the speaker sound better the heavier you go with total gauge-8 to 10 gauge total.the type of wire is very important sonically -occ copper or silver.
 
one of the biggest improvements to the speakers you can make is getting rid of the fuse,use occ or silver wire.all binding posts color the sound,the idea is to remove things that will be in the signal path other than wire,you can use the binding post to bind the 2 wires together but do not run the signal through the post itself.that is why you bring the wire from behing the post and attach it together with speaker wire in front of binding post,i hope i am making my self clear!by the way use solid core wire when re-wiring the maggies internally,you can parrell as many as you like,start with 22 or 20 gauge.the speaker sound better the heavier you go with total gauge-8 to 10 gauge total.the type of wire is very important sonically -occ copper or silver.
 
do remove the connectors between the panels,use 20 gauge-parallel 12 of them to same lenght that was between panels,twist the ends ight and solder the tips and insert between panels.this will make as big a change as wiring internally.enjoy.i have owned my maggies since the 70's been through all kinds of speakers but always kept the 1D's,they love juice but tubes will lead to holly grail,vtl m225 modded,but that's another story.one of the secrets of the 1D's are is the crossover is in negative part of the signal,so nothing in the way between positive amp post and panel!!!!!
 
3) Place the subwoofer in front of the Maggies, and not behind. I once placed a 15" subwoofer behind each Maggie and found that the bass rattled the panels. Now, I use a single dual side-firing subwoofer with my 3.6's. Because of group delay, etc. In front also works better in my experience with most subwoofers. This is usually because the 3.6's have a 2nd order crossover, and most subwoofers have 4th order or higher in the low-pass crossover.

4) Experiment with height. I found that having a subwoofer off the ground worked best with my 3.6's - but it's not very practical unless the subwoofer does not vibrate much with self-cancelling horizontally opposed drivers (good example is the Martin Logan Depth).

Hi Gary,

Any starting points for your recommendations 3 & 4 above?

How high off the ground did you mount the sub?

How far in front of the 3.6's did you place the sub?

Thanks,
Tim
 
Gary

Please also mention the crossover slope and frequency your using for the subwoofer / panels. I realize this is somewhat room dependent but after measuring, I found some value in overlapping the XO frequencies e.g. I have my subs Low pass set 18dB @ 53Hz with the high pass 18 dB @ 48 Hz.

thanks Barry
 

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