It turns out that Marrakesh is completely amazing. Wherever we go (including Venice, Shanghai, Miami) Tinka likes us to see, explore and attempt to understand the city by enrolling us in a food tour. A food tour not only takes you to restaurants with good food but, also, invariably, exposes you and teaches you a lot about the city from the point of view of a local who lives there.
Today we took a food tour with a university graduate Millennial who grew up in Marrakesh. He spoke perfect English, as did almost everyone we encountered in every situation.
Yes, of course, the whole city rises and falls with the tourist and hospitality industry, but random people on the streets seem significantly happier than we observed in Manila or Shanghai or almost any other city we have visited. Locals seem genuinely happy and proud to live in Marrakesh.
We saw briefly the souk (market) that all the tourists go to. But then our tour guide took us to see some very cool stuff we never, ever would have seen without him.
Apparently, for hundreds of years, families bring their dough to a central, community baker who bakes the dough and then waits for a member of each family to retrieve the baked bread. The tray identifies which bread belongs to which family. Our tour guide's father performed this role for many years for their community.
The baker works many steps down below street level in a fire breathing lair -- the underground place where the oven is located and he bakes the bread. The chimney of the oven is used to heat spa water in an above-ground hammam.
Because the baker meets many family members across the entire community, young men turn to him for advice on which women are single. "Like Match.com," our tour guide told us.
I function very poorly in hot weather. Today the outdoor climate was about 105°F, and more humid than usual. The baker works underground -- sitting or standing in front of a giant stone oven carved into the structure of the basement. It is literally hellishly hot work. He is there for many hours each and every day.