Interesting thread.
So, first of all, I liked your editorial on Soundstage.
Regarding what a reviewer should do, my opinion is it should be related to the category of the product in review. As you pointed out, there's some pieces of gear that, because of their price, shouldn't lack of anything: they should just target the throne of reference product. Then, it's clear that there's always some subjective impression in a review, so even the best reviewer (in terms of musical culture and experience) could have some biases. Some of them clearly declare such these biases: my favorite Italian one, Marco Benedetti from Audio Review, is very into vinyl, high torque turntables, very-low output cartridges, tubed amplification and electrostatic speakers. Every Italian audiophile knows that if he says that the midrange of a dynamic speaker reminds him the Quad's one, it's his best compliment. Is this a message between the lines? Not really, if he declares which is his bias and personal reference.
That's the point: a reviewer should declare his reference points. Then, I wouldn't be surprised whether a reviewer crowns a speaker set as world's best, and an year after a new one comes. I mean, new products, new references... in the end, not even RH has listened to everything... What instead annoys me, and induced me not to renew my subscription to TAS, is that in every issue there was a new world's best: not only, the previous reference is not beaten by the new one, they're all world's best. I mean, is it possible that, for RH, the Berkeley Alpha, the Meridian 808.3, the Spectral SDR4000Pro, the dCS Puccini + U-Clock (and maybe now something more) and all of them the world's best?? Ironically, They're world's best for different reasons: best soundstage, best bass, best mids, SACD capability, 24/176 capability, best redbook playback... C'mon, it sounds like they're all missing something! And we all could add something about JV: Balabo, Audio Research, Soulution, Technical Brain... which is the best amplification in his opinion???
Guys, I don't want a reviewer that tells me the divine truth... but I'd like he told me his real opinion: is this product complete? is it suitable for a long term spot in a gold standard system? can it be broadly appreciated independently on the listener's biases? And then, I cannot hide the "excitement" in reading that something is a true epiphany...
These were my 2 cents...