Swiss Digital Fuse Box Anyone?

Just got this from Mark in my email today:

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The physical obstacle I see with the X unit is access to adjacent receptacles on the back of a typical conditioner/regenerator, whose receptacle to receptacle spacing horizontally is typically similar. The SDFB is about 2-5/8" across, and the X unit looks similar (awaiting exact measurements from Mark). Using audio grade Furutech AC connectors next door, that leaves about 3/4" free between outlets. With an X, if outlets are at a premium, depending on one's system, something would have to give.
 
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Never made sense for the SDFB to require a "pigtail", DIY or otherwise when the female AC connector could have been a female IEC connector instead, obviating the need for an additional cable. My understanding is that such a version is forthcoming.
It's never easy to be all things to all people. I understand and appreciate the comment though.

It's no secret that I'm old(er) and a bit crankier than I used to be. :)

Two new speakers just arrived while waiting the boat and new Electronics as well.

The future is quite vibrant - Thanks - Mark
 
The physical obstacle I see with the X unit is access to adjacent receptacles on the back of a typical conditioner/regenerator, whose receptacle to receptacle spacing horizontally is typically similar. The SDFB is about 2-5/8" across, and the X unit looks similar (awaiting exact measurements from Mark). Using audio grade Furutech AC connectors next door, that leaves about 3/4" free between outlets. With an X, if outlets are at a premium, depending on one's system, something would have to give.
I will pull the SolidWorks model later and check

Thanks - Mark
 
What adapter/power cord have you been using on each side of the SDFB? The Takshaka is excellent, but decidedly neutral, if that matters to you (I returned mine). To the SDFB, I've done well with a combo of short WyWires Platinums/Diamond power cords and Audio Sensibility gold-plated Furutech adapters. And a brass sluggo in my Lampi GG3 dac.
I have a full loom of Ansuz cables in my system and they are very neutral. The PC feeding the Helene is a Ansuz C2, the piggy tail is a Veri-Fi, I believe they only offered the one at that time. I know Veri-Fi offers 3 models now. As for changing out my Ansuz PC, that won't happen as I am extremely happy with Ansuz...........
 
Easy fix re sibilance. The SDFB when used with a Brass Sluggo really creates a more Organic feel. We RARELY get this comment - send me your address and I will pop a few choices in the mail to you.

Best - Mark
Thank you for your very generous offer, I am more than happy to pay for whatever Sluggo you recommend. I will send you a PM.........
 
I have a full loom of Ansuz cables in my system and they are very neutral. The PC feeding the Helene is a Ansuz C2, the piggy tail is a Veri-Fi, I believe they only offered the one at that time. I know Veri-Fi offers 3 models now. As for changing out my Ansuz PC, that won't happen as I am extremely happy with Ansuz...........

It’s not going very far out in a limb to say that Vera-fi piggy tail is undermining the Ansuz. There’s the new X unit coming out, or alternatives like the Snake River Takshaka or the Audio Sensibility adapters. Or perhaps Ansuz would make you a custom piggy.
 
It’s not going very far out in a limb to say that Vera-fi piggy tail is undermining the Ansuz. There’s the new X unit coming out, or alternatives like the Snake River Takshaka or the Audio Sensibility adapters. Or perhaps Ansuz would make you a custom piggy.
That's why I mentioned in my original post that I have a SRA Takahaka piggy tail coming..........
 
Easy fix re sibilance. The SDFB when used with a Brass Sluggo really creates a more Organic feel. We RARELY get this comment - send me your address and I will pop a few choices in the mail to you.

Best - Mark
Per Mark's suggestion I ordered the Brass Sluggo and I just got it installed in my Helene...........
 
I just had my second Audio Sensibility adaptor fail from the weight of a somewhat heavy power cord. Snap crackle pop and then no connection. Units bend between the two segments. Just not strong enough to hold up. I am very lucky to have avoided a fire- interestingly the SDFB did not disconnect. If you are going to use these make certain there is no strain on them.
 
I just had my second Audio Sensibility adaptor fail from the weight of a somewhat heavy power cord. Snap crackle pop and then no connection. Units bend between the two segments. Just not strong enough to hold up. I am very lucky to have avoided a fire- interestingly the SDFB did not disconnect. If you are going to use these make certain there is no strain on them.

Do you have a photo? Which power cords are you using? Are they supported at all?

Your post got me to take another look at mine. I have four of the AS adapters with SDFBs and WyWires Diamond power cords on the other end. My regenerator is up off the floor a few inches, so my setup might seem a candidate for a problem, but the adapter/SDFB combos are placed to rest on each other to some degree and the WW cords' first several inches is twisted wire, before they get to the heavier insulation. Then the insulated sections are supported and kept off the carpet by some combination of DIY spindle/coaster stands and those cheap foam blocks sold on eBay.
 
I just had my second Audio Sensibility adaptor fail from the weight of a somewhat heavy power cord. Snap crackle pop and then no connection. Units bend between the two segments. Just not strong enough to hold up. I am very lucky to have avoided a fire- interestingly the SDFB did not disconnect. If you are going to use these make certain there is no strain on them.

Hmmm, I hypothetically spoke about this very thing either over at the 'Gon when talking about pig-tail options. (https://forum.audiogon.com/posts/2776094) The fulcrum point of weight was a big concern of mine, but I didn't really consider the adapter itself becoming compromised. I ended up going a different route and from the sounds of it? I am very glad I did. I am relieved to hear from you that a fire didn't start.

You *may* want to take that component out and check that the male IEC wasn't compromised by any arcing as well.....just to be sure.

Tom
 
? on break in (my SDFB arrives today). ---if my amp is in standby, does that count to the 300hrs required for break in or is it 300hrs of full draw from the component?

hate to leave the amp on for 1.5 weeks unattended.

tia
 
? on break in (my SDFB arrives today). ---if my amp is in standby, does that count to the 300hrs required for break in or is it 300hrs of full draw from the component?

hate to leave the amp on for 1.5 weeks unattended.

tia

No. For a power cord and interconnect, trickle mode is good enough, and I'm forgetting offhand if even that's necessary for a power cord; i.e., if just being connected is good enough.
 
No. For a power cord and interconnect, trickle mode is good enough, and I'm forgetting offhand if even that's necessary for a power cord; i.e., if just being connected is good enough.
Interesting. I thought we had to run at least a similar load to reduce the device specific settle time.
 
I just had my second Audio Sensibility adaptor fail from the weight of a somewhat heavy power cord. Snap crackle pop and then no connection. Units bend between the two segments. Just not strong enough to hold up. I am very lucky to have avoided a fire- interestingly the SDFB did not disconnect. If you are going to use these make certain there is no strain on them.

I also have an Audio Sensibility adaptor, but was able to support it as in the pic. No little ones zooming around to knock it over. Another issue is the space required behind a component with any of the rigid SFDB adapters. Per the same pic the component is not as large as most and yet it 'just' fits.
 

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My Snake River Audio Takshaka piggy tail arrived Tuesday, got it installed yesterday and playing music today. I'll give it a couple of days to settle in, but it already has made an improvement.

IMG_8826.jpg
 
I'm writing this post to shout out one BIG THANK you publicly to Mark and his team!! Namely I had two SDFBs for my ex Nagra VPA mono blocks. As I sold them and wanted to repurpose those two boxes and they needed to be reprogrammed I've send them to VeraFi and got them back in less than two weeks with the entire operation being absolutely seamless.
Well in my book that is one bloody exceptional customer service and I do feel people need to know that.

Mark thanks again!!

P.S. One box is happily singing in Horizon360 already and second one will be deployed in my Tobian SC12R preamp...
 
so got my SDFB in.
for context, it was the stock fuse in my Vitus SIA30, and i'm using the *exact same* power cord into and out of the SDFB. Also using graphene sluggo. so, best case scenario for SDFB to strut its stuff IMO.

while initial AB wasn't too impressive, within 24 hours it was a different animal. considerable improvements in dynamics, low level resolution and bass articulation. like, "what the hell happened" level improvements. despite some parts choices i would not have made (IEC, female plug are not SOTA furutech items, and IME all parts have a sound) none of the inherent characteristics of the prior presentation were changed---it still sounds exactly like my SIA30. ergo, the closest equivalent i can put in layman's terms is the effect is like going to monoblocs from a stereo amp of the same brand / model.

A fair bit more economical too.

admittedly, my vitus takes a 12a fuse so this was a major bottleneck removed.

will it be as effective on low level electronics? i defer to others. i'll just say that its a winner, and in the ballpark of the best bang for buck tweak i've tried
 
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Hmmm, I hypothetically spoke about this very thing either over at the 'Gon when talking about pig-tail options. (https://forum.audiogon.com/posts/2776094) The fulcrum point of weight was a big concern of mine, but I didn't really consider the adapter itself becoming compromised. I ended up going a different route and from the sounds of it? I am very glad I did. I am relieved to hear from you that a fire didn't start.

You *may* want to take that component out and check that the male IEC wasn't compromised by any arcing as well.....just to be sure.

Tom
Thanks My Snake River Pigtails sound (as they should for the money) much better.
 
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