Router Optimization for Audio Quality

agisthos

Well-Known Member
Oct 14, 2012
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Let's start a thread specifically for router configuration. I want to focus on the Edgerouter X and Edgerouter X SFP (same device/OS but the later includes an SFP port) but we can talk about any router or managed switch.

These Edgerouter X devices are a bit of a darling in the IT world, they can do a LOT of custom configuration, and they are priced under $100 so anyone can easily use one and hear/see the benefits of low network traffic once they are optimized.

But first lets talk about the easy one; disabling wireless in your basic router. Most ISP will give you a combined modem/router with dual 2.5g and 5g wireless (not to be confused with cellular 5g). The wireless chips seem to give off a huge amount of RF noise that effects everything downstream when streaming content. Disabling both these wireless bands in the modem/router seems to improve things to various degrees.

But like 95% of us you will still want wireless access to your network. So you then install a separate wireless router, connected to your modem/router via a LAN cable. For example I just use a simple TP-Link TL-WA1201. Isolating the wireless device OUTSIDE the modem/router seems to improve audio quality downstream on a well sorted system.

This is a basic first step that anyone can do that is not too technical.
 
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My home network is based on a Ubiquiti Dream Machine SE and a Ubiquiti switch. From the Ubiquiti switch, I connect to a router dedicated to audio – the Synergistic Research UEF Router, and then to the Synergistic Research UEF Switch MkII. Previously, I used only the switch, but the dedicated router improves the sound quality both when streaming from the internet and when playing local files. I also have an external access point connected to the router for control from the iPad.

In the context of network settings – without the dedicated router (using only the UDM SE) I tested various configurations (MTU, VLAN, Port Forwarding, QoS...), but in my opinion, they didn’t have much impact on sound quality. On the SR router I also don’t use VLANs, since it only serves the server (via LAN) and the iPad for control (via WLAN). In my opinion, when it comes to an audio network, the key factor is the physical separation of devices from the main network infrastructure, along with reducing noise within the devices themselves. SR uses fairly simple “off-the-shelf” hardware as the base for both the router and the switch, but adds its own power supply and proprietary enhancements.
 
Nice move on setting up this thread, @agisthos.

@enzo1, I know a good few people who use, love and recommend to others the Ubiquiti Dream Machine as a general purpose router to underpin a more audio-optimised network thereafter. Seems like a great starting point.
 
they are priced under $100 so anyone can easily use one
...FWIW: I tried the EdgeX 4-5 years ago and gave up. I found that device ridiculously fussy to set-up.

A couple of years later, I ordered a second, fiber ISP service to the house. About a year or so later, the Taiko router.

I recognize my solution is not applicable to all, but I think it fair to note the EdgeX router is *not* a very user-friendly, plug-and-play affair, in my view.
 
I recognize my solution is not applicable to all, but I think it fair to note the EdgeX router is *not* a very user-friendly, plug-and-play affair, in my view.

This is very true. I intend to give some step by step setup tips using screenshots of the GUI. Part of the reason for this thread is to collate in once place the settings for routers.

Of course the Taiko products are designed to be user friendly but they cost the moon.
 
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...true re: price. Detailed set-up options/procedures will help many people get a quality network at home with the EdgeX product. It is well regarded by many and most accounts. I will be reading along myself. Best...
 
disabling wireless in your basic router.
A very good tip, which I support. For the Europeans among us here: I have published many tips on the FRITZ!Box router on my homepage. I recommend these improvements (also with other routers):

Data backup

Outsource WLAN

Set up priorities

Deactivate DECT

Turn off LED display

Disable USB

Deactivate media server

LAN settings Enable Green Mode

Disable EEE (Energy Efficient Ethernet)

Disable packet acceleration (maybe)

DNS server services

Source: https://griggaudio.de/2022/08/30/fritzbox-audiophiles-setup/
 
Good thread topic. I have achieved noticeable gain in sound quality by isolating my streamer from other devices on my LAN. I am using a Firewalla Gold Pro router which has both VLAN and VqLAN (Virtual Quarantine LAN) capabilities. I use VqLAN for microsegmentation and include only the streamer and my iPhone (to use app to control streamer) in a segmented group, thus blocking all traffic from and to devices outside of the group.

I can turn VqLAN on/off from the Firewalla app on my iPhone to A/B the difference. Quite noticeable in noise reduction, both attack and decay definition, and clarity of imaging. I would guess VLAN could have a similar sound quality improvement.
 
Hi all,

These are some of the things that I have done to optimize my router
1. Using a quality LPS like silent angel forester F2 and forester NX
2. Separating out the router from the access point, I am personally using 2 Asus router - ax86u pro and tuf ax6000 for this. The access point is placed as far away from my hifi system as possible.
3. Turning off one of the radio band (I’m using 2.4 ghz only as it is legacy compatible with IOT devices such as Robo vaccum but based on my test, music sounds more energetic when using the 5ghz band)
4. Use guest network pro to isolate other devices from hifi network, need to toggle on isolate AP on the other network.
5. Other setting I have fiddled with, off all led lighting, disable tx bursting.

I think all the above helps to lower noise floor significantly if you are on a main streaming user.
 
@Xymox was saying that for the wireless access point 5ghz is best because it has less metal penetration power than 2.4ghz, so less likely to induce noise and effect the audio system.
But I am in the same situation @Zeins , my Robo vac needs 2.4 ghz so I use that.

If possible set the transit power of wi-fi to LOW and narrow the channel bandwidth to 20mhz. These two settings slightly help.

But definitely most important to only use one wifi band, having both on is noticeably bad.
 
I have been trying a few things on my router based on advice here and elsewhere. I am running a Draytek router and they come with some great features to help improve the sound. BTW: I am not an networking expert, I did this by reading help files online.

1. As per above, a quality power supply, I use the Plixir Elite balanced power supply. The same I use on my SOtM switches also for consistently and they sound really good. I have tried a few others, such a Farah's, iFi, but prefer the Plixir.

2. Supporting the router as if it is a hifi component. I have it on it's own support shelf, isolation feet underneath and a 1.5kg weight on top. All help calm the sound. Not night and day but you notice the slight change when you take them away.

3. Router configuration, setting up two VLAN's to separate out the traffic, which the Draytek allows you to do very easily. My set-up is as follows, which may inspire others:

VLAN 1 is dedicated to hifi system only. I have this linked on a specific ethernet port on the router, which feeds my media room. Plus I have a dedicated wifi SSID that only links to this VLAN. This is for the iPhone which has the control app. The wifi on this network is 5Ghz. On this VLAN I have set the subnet mask to 255.255.255.240/28, which reduces the number of IP addresses on the network. The only devices I have on this network are the iPhone I mentioned, plus connected to the ethernet are; Melco music server, Streamer and Apple TV. The Apple TV is also powered by a Plixir power supply. Implementing this had a surprising impact on the noise floor, which is now reduced and well worth the effort. I did test 2.4Ghz against the 5Ghz for the wifi to see if that made any impact, even though it was just the control app that is using wifi and all other devices are ethernet connected. I could not hear any difference, so stuck with 5Ghz to get the extra bandwidth as it did seem a little snapper, but could just have been in my head. Should also note that the Apple TV does benefit with improves sound and pictures with the lower noise floor. It is easy to see and hear, like with the Streamer.

VLAN2 is dedicated to the rest of the house, this is set-up with a subnet mask of 255.255.255.192/26, this reduces the noise floor and improves the responsiveness of the network. I run Sonos on this VLAN so this benefits slightly in sound. This VLAN only runs on a 2.4gHz wifi network. When I initially planned this I was worried that having my iPhone on VALN1 I would not be able to control my IOT devices, but it turns out because they are *all* internet enabled I can access them over the internet form VLAN1 to VLAN2 without any noticeable speed degrading.

A foot note is that Draytek does allow you to configures rules to allow devices to communicate across VLAN's, and limit to just that device, which I thought I was going to have to implement to allow the iPhone to control the audio system, and the rest of the house. But didn't need to in the end.

4. Quality of Service (QOS). I have set mine so that Class 1 gets 70% of my network bandwidth (Total bandwidth is 50mb), Class 2 ands 3 get 1% and other traffic get the reaming 28%. Worth noting that Draytek have two types of QOS, hardware and software, I use the software version as the hardware version does not release bandwidth it is fixed, which with only 50mb connection would kill the rest of the house traffic. I have set the VLAN range for the Audio network so that all traffic gets Class 1 and is always prioritised. All other house traffic goes to other, which includes my kids playing games and all streaming outside the media room. QOS, has a very noticeable impact on the sound, reducing the noise floor, plus it also improves the responsiveness of the control app, music starts that little bit faster and scrolling through streaming services on the Apple TV is also smoother.

Also I have given my work laptop a fixed IP address on VLAN2 and then assigned that IP address to Class 1 in the QOS, which means the kids streaming and games do not interfere with my video calls and it has also improved the responsiveness of browsing.

Hope that helps.
 
Since October 2023, an iFi iPower Elite has been powering my router (Unifi Cloud Gateway). The Elite brought a sound quality improvement despite the router being a good distance from my system.

The recent addition of a tempus switch had me move my EtherRegen along with its power supply (Farad Super3) down to my AV system. As I reported in the best switches thread, the ER brought improvements to both audio and video. I wondered though if I’d prefer the Super3 powering my router. Last night I finally did a comparison.

It only took one swap to hear improvements. Twice I found myself saying “wow” but not because of the magnitude of the improvement but more so because I was surprised to hear unfamiliar sounds emerge. Not sure what I heard would justify paying full price for a Super3 (plus Audiosensibilty Signature DC cable), but this stuff is going to remain downstairs powering my router.

What I think I’ve appreciated most about the recent network optimizations is the increase in purity which has brought with it a greater sense of ease. Ease my not be the best word to describe it but it’s just that artifacts that had been putting me on edge have been lessened.

Lastly, I moved the Elite over to the ER so tonight I will see if it restores some of the magic that was lost.
 
Since October 2023, an iFi iPower Elite has been powering my router (Unifi Cloud Gateway). The Elite brought a sound quality improvement despite the router being a good distance from my system.

The recent addition of a tempus switch had me move my EtherRegen along with its power supply (Farad Super3) down to my AV system. As I reported in the best switches thread, the ER brought improvements to both audio and video. I wondered though if I’d prefer the Super3 powering my router. Last night I finally did a comparison.

It only took one swap to hear improvements. Twice I found myself saying “wow” but not because of the magnitude of the improvement but more so because I was surprised to hear unfamiliar sounds emerge. Not sure what I heard would justify paying full price for a Super3 (plus Audiosensibilty Signature DC cable), but this stuff is going to remain downstairs powering my router.

What I think I’ve appreciated most about the recent network optimizations is the increase in purity which has brought with it a greater sense of ease. Ease my not be the best word to describe it but it’s just that artifacts that had been putting me on edge have been lessened.

Lastly, I moved the Elite over to the ER so tonight I will see if it restores some of the magic that was lost.
Hi Kennyb123,

Another test you can try is whether the ER affects the stereo side even though it is connected to your av side of things.

Glad that you are making new optimization of your home network system.
 
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Another test you can try is whether the ER affects the stereo side even though it is connected to your av side of things.
Can you explain what you mean by that?
 
IMG_9310.jpeg

Above is how I have my home setup to be. If I change the connections between router #1 to Nas etc. it will impact the sound at hifi system even though it is not connected directly. E.g swapping the lan cable direction around between desktop/NaS, one will sound harsher and en will sound smoother at ease.

Therefore I am thinking whether the ER you have placed which i think would be similar to between router #2 and desktop (in my home setup) will impact the sound at the hifi system.
 
I found having my NAS directly connected to the same switch as the hifi/streamer was better than having it connected to the external router (such as Router 2 above).

This meant the NAS was also powered by the same AC circuit as the hifi system. You would think not having it on the same local AC would be better. But it seems the extra ethernet data connections the NAS media runs through to get to the hifi/streamer was a greater sonic impediment.
 
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Therefore I am thinking whether the ER you have placed which i think would be similar to between router #2 and desktop (in my home setup) will impact the sound at the hifi system.

My AV system and two channel system are on opposite sides of my home with the former downstairs and the latter upstairs.

I didn’t want the ER is the path leading to my main system because of its 100mb bandwidth when passing data through its moat. The moat itself is what makes the ER special so it thought it best to take full advantage of it by dedicating it to my AV system.

It was my impression tonight that some ground had been gained back by my AV system when powering the ER off the Elite supply instead of the stock Uptone SMPS. But it could also be that the Farad powering my router is benefiting my AV system too.
 
I have been following this thread and other internet optimization threads, hoping to improve my system.
DC power supplies along with their DC power cables seem to play a significant part of the streaming chain upgrade.
I have been building cables for many years with varying degrees of success.
So thought I would try my hand at some DC power cables.
I have made about a half dozen now using various combinations of wire.
Some with pure dead soft silver wire, some with Mundorf wire, some with PCOCC wire and misc other types. (OCC, silver clad copper, vintage Western Electric ETC ).
Some cables are made with both sides being the same wire and others with different wires/types on the (+) (-).
I am quite taken back at the differences that these DC cables make on my system.
I am discovering that wire gauge makes a difference. Thicker wires seem to present in a bigger bolder more propulsive manner. And thinner gauge wires present with more detail and finesse.
So far the winner is one 22ga strand of pure silver along with one strand of .5 Mundorf wire on the positive leg and one strand of Neotech 20ga PCOCC on the negative leg.
This seems to provide the best of both worlds. (Powering my Sonore optical rendu)
I am not through experimenting yet and have multiple other combinations to try.
These cables are super easy to build and their sonic contributions are easily detected.
All this being said, I am just flabbergasted at the difference that these DC cables can make.
 
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I have been following this thread and other internet optimization threads, hoping to improve my system.
DC power supplies along with their DC power cables seem to play a significant part of the streaming chain upgrade.
I have been building cables for many years with varying degrees of success.
So thought I would try my hand at some DC power cables.
I have made about a half dozen now using various combinations of wire.
Some with pure dead soft silver wire, some with Mundorf wire, some with PCOCC wire and misc other types. (OCC, silver clad copper, vintage Western Electric ETC ).
Some cables are made with both sides being the same wire and others with different wires/types on the (+) (-).
I am quite taken back at the differences that these DC cables make on my system.
I am discovering that wire gauge makes a difference. Thicker wires seem to present in a bigger bolder more propulsive manner. And thinner gauge wires present with more detail and finesse.
So far the winner is one 22ga strand of pure silver along with one strand of .5 Mundorf wire on the positive leg and one strand of Neotech 20ga PCOCC on the negative leg.
This seems to provide the best of both worlds. (Powering my Sonore optical rendu)
I am not through experimenting yet and have multiple other combinations to try.
These cables are super easy to build and their sonic contributions are easily detected.
All this being said, I am just flabbergasted at the difference that these DC cables can make.
You will likely be interested in this John Swenson post on DIY DC cables:
https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/31554-diy-dc-power-cables/
 
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