Power Upgrade Project Completed: AMAZING, could have never expected this outcome!!!! Thanks Vince, Rex and Art!!!!

battles

VIP/Donor
Dec 11, 2011
81
89
1,658
Hi All,

I just completed an extensive project to revamp the delivery of electrical power to my listening room. Considering that the majority of expense was labor cost, I wasn’t terribly concerned about the cost of materials. Meaning, I spec’d the largest gauge wire that could be twisted tightly and pulled by a team of electricians (between MDP and sub panel) as well as the largest gauge branch circuit wire that could be terminated in my Furutech GTX Rodium NFC listening room duplexes. My approach was heavily influenced by the advice of Vince Galbo from MSB (and his whitepaper), Rex Hungerford and Art Kelm.

Before describing the details of my project, I’ll say that the outcome was SPECTACULAR. The sonic improvement yielded was far more significant than any component upgrade I could have envisioned at any price. Considering what I spent to implement it (5-7 electricians per day for a week + material cost), I took a pretty big risk. There was no ability to audition this “component” before purchase. That being said, my system is now operating at a level that FAR EXCEEDED my expectations (no placebo here or sense that it may sound a little better but not quite sure…IT’S A NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE). And the crazy thing is that it far outperforms my system prior to the power upgrade where my digital front end was an MSB Select, that I sold a couple weeks ago, in anticipation of my MSB Cascade which arrives on Monday. In the meantime, I’m using an old Meridian 818v3 DAC that’s been gathering dust in a closet. Still, even with this 10+ year old DAC, the system is performing better IMHO, than any system I’ve heard in a dealer’s listening room, at shows, etc. Now my sample set may be limited, and I understand that there are certainly many systems that outperform mine, but the reason I mention this is that for those of you who haven’t taken a no holds barred approach to upgrading your power delivery, doing so may be the single most economical and significant upgrade you can make to your system. Otherwise, without optimizing your power delivery, you may be wasting $s on high end equipment / upgrades or driving your sports car in first gear for years without even touching its potential. After only listening to my system for a couple hours post power upgrade (from a cold state), the dynamic range and weight and density of the artists and instruments are off the charts, the spatial cues are effortlessly communicated through the track–when an artist mumbles or whispers to a bandmate during a session, it sounds like you are part of the conversation–vocals have significant density and extend all the way to the listening position, the rhythm and pace of the music just sound “right”. As I listen, layers of music wash over me, and I no longer critique my system, or listen to the better part of a track before jumping to the next song. My system just grew a gigantic set of low hanging BALLS….I’m posting my experience for the benefit of others who are “pretty” happy with their systems, enjoy a component upgrade for a few weeks before chasing the next one, or love their system one day but not the next. That was me for many years.

This was the scope and details of my project:

- from my 600A service entry MDP (Quad D I-Line w/ copper bus) I ran a 175’ 125A 120v 1/0-1/0-1/0 + 8 AWG ground circuit (hot and neutral were twisted tightly at 2-2.5 twists per foot; ground wire was not twisted and left loose in the PVC conduit; the spare 1/0 was not twisted and will serve as a neutral in the event I run 240v in the future) to a sub panel that feeds five 35’ 120v 20A branch circuits (3-4 twists per foot) to listening room duplexes. I am fortunate in that I have dedicated pole/transformer that I do not share with my neighbors. Also, per Rex’s recommendation the 125A breaker feeding the 1/0 circuit, it was seated in the slot closest to the incoming 600A utility service.

- also worth mentioning that prior to choosing which A/C phase to seat the 125A breaker in the MDP, we used a Greenwave noise meter to test the broadband noise on each incoming phase, and chose the quietest (1300mv). We did not consider moving “noisy” appliances in the 5 sub panels that the MDP also powers, since all appliances, etc. share the same neutral in the MDP. And, that would have been huge undertaking. For what it is worth, the noise reading at my listening room duplexes are ~1200mv. That may be high but it is consistent with the noise level being delivered on the utility lines. Nothing I can do about that besides rely upon my listening room power conditioner to filter or consider an industrial sized isolation transformer before the sub panel in the future.

- regarding sub panel, I teetered between Eaton CH and Quad D’s QO line. I ultimately chose the former because it had a silver flashed bus bar vs. the latter which had a tin flashed bus bar. Silver is a better conductor but oxidizes more quickly. Not sure one is better from the other. I would have spec’d a sub panel custom built by Rex, but my time table did not allow that. Could be a potential upgrade in the future. Another option would have been a Quad D NQ panel but they require 20” stud bays of which I have “16. And I did not want to surface mount it.

- regarding the branch circuits, with some ingenuity, resolve and elbow grease, two were landed with twisted 6AWG romex into my GTX-D R NCF duplexes, while the other three were landed with 10 AWG cryo’d Romex. In all cases, the ground wire in the romex jacket was not used; instead, we ran a 10AWG solid core copper ground for each circuit. These grounds were not twisted and left loose in the conduit. All branch circuits lengths were cut to exactly the same lengths. I’ll report back on which gauge sounds better in my system. Know Rex prefers 10AWG, but based on a brief A/B, my MSB Amp may prefer the 6AWG. Attack appears to be more powerful and imaging denser when powered by the 6 AWG circuity, but it’s way too early for me to declare a victor.

- MSB S202 is plugged into the wall while my source components into a Shunyata 6000v2 power conditioner.

- expecting the live bus bars of my I-Line MDP, all connections, breakers, wire terminals and outlets were treated with Deoxit DN5-100 followed by Deoxit GN5-100

- We did not use silver paste. We had no junctions or pigtails in the circuits where it may have been useful. Would have been way too messy to use on the duplex connections, which were a beast to land with the 6AWG. Could have considered using it in the sub panel, but we were rushed at the end and the electricians’ were already at their ropes end.

- regarding outdoor grounding, the ground resistance at my MDP read less than 0.5 ohms, so while I considered adding supplemental ground rods, for now, I don’t believe I need them. My understanding that less than 0.5 ohms is very good.

- there are wire resistance calculators online that you can use to compute circuit resistance based upon length, current delivery, frequency, etc. depending on wire gauge and whether that is stranded, solid, copper, etc. I purposely spec’d wire gauge that would present the lowest resistance path between the MDP and listening room duplexes that could be twisted tightly with the ground wire left loose, was not so heavy or unwieldy that it could not be run over a long distance with the muscle of a team of electricians, and landed in duplexes without downsizing gauge via junction boxes and pigtails. Regarding the latter, the majority of the industry expertise I consulted recommend avoiding junctions and pigtails at all cost. Others may share a differing point of view, but I wanted to optimize continuity from MDP to duplexes.

- Finally, while it was recommended on several occasions, I did not implement an isolation transformer between the MDP and sub panel (or an isolation transformer sub panel), which I may consider in the future to address high frequency noise that is unavoidable given the length of my circuits and what noise is coming into my MDP from the utility service. However, my branch circuits are still reasonably long (35’), so if I were to consider an isolation transformer, I’d need to ensure whether the impedance that the isolation transformer introduced into he circuit wouldn’t limit current delivery to my components. Most experts recommend that an isolation transformer is not longer than 25’ from the duplexes. In my case, that is not feasible unless I were to implement a rack mounted model.

In sum, while YMMV depending on the variable nature of your system, utility service, ability to run dedicated circuits and the gauge thereof, I wanted to share my experience and the level of detail I applied to my project. Vince and his whitepaper were incredibly helpful in the development of my approach, while Rex and Art were very helpful in answering hardware specific questions as I formalized my plan. A big thanks to all!

Blake

Helpful Links:

Vince’s Whitepaper: https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/?usp=docs_web&pli=1

Twisting Conductors to Mitigate Noise Whitepaper: https://www.jensen-transformers.com...est-of-Story-Whitlock-Fox-Generic-Version.pdf
 
Last edited:
Congrats, very helpful indeed. I’m going to work on my lines next March. Are you using PVC pipes external from walls? I’ve read somewhere that @Kingrex recommends no multiple earth wires into a single PVC pipe and/or even no more than 1 line (neutral, phase and earth) per single PVC pipe. Can you describe how did you manage that? I have 5 sockets/dedicated lines too, in my room but certainly can’t have 5 PVC pipes. Thanks.
 
Congrats, very helpful indeed. I’m going to work on my lines next March. Are you using PVC pipes external from walls? I’ve read somewhere that @Kingrex recommends no multiple earth wires into a single PVC pipe and/or even no more than 1 line (neutral, phase and earth) per single PVC pipe. Can you describe how did you manage that? I have 5 sockets/dedicated lines too, in my room but certainly can’t have 5 PVC pipes. Thanks.
Luca, to answer your question, I benefit from having a crawl space under my home that allowed my electricians to run PVC conduit from the MDP to the listening room sub panel and from the sub panel to my listening room duplexes without tearing up sheet rock, boring through studs or mounting PVC on external walls (w/e of the PVC conduit running from the MDP to the crawl space entry point). Each circuit (twisted hot and neutral and loose straight ground wire) had its own PVC raceway to its final destination. And without knowing your system, perhaps you could get away with only two dedicated circuits: one for your amp and one for your power conditioner. In my situation, my N30SA resides in my office that connects to my MSB pro usb /isl module from which I run a fiber optic cable into my Cascade via the crawl space. Hence, I only really need three dedicated circuits. However, I wanted to run two extra dedicated circuits (four in total) to my listening room so that I could discern the sonic difference between 6 gauge and 10 gauge circuits (I ran two of each gauge) because there are differing views among the experts as to whether larger vs smaller gauge / stranded vs solid core conductors sound better over shorter branch circuits. And I suspect that outcome may vary depending on the attributes of one’s system. I’ll share which of the latter combinations sound best in my system after my Cascade is installed next week, and it and all of my new circuits have burned in.
 
I would try a battery and inverter. I honestly believe it can produce far better results done right. You just have to size it properly. Your europe correct. You can put a single 48 volt 100AH battery to a single 230 volt 50 hert inverter and load out to your panel and fuse 5 circuits to the rack and anps.
 
And it looks like that link may not be working, folks can find the paper here as well:
 
So you used both romex and individual copper wires to do this job. Why not use just romex? Why twist the cables? How much more length was needed to accommodate the twist?
Thanks,
Chris
 
I've also been grappling with multitude of decisions related to delivering optimal AC power into my dedicated basement listening room. Many thanks to Blake for sharing so much valuable information, which has been super helpful! I've been able to source very high quality in-wall AC cables for a fraction of what it would cost from "audiophile" brands.

Please follow my AC powerline journey (and others) through this WBF thread:
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...ddiffusors-big-dig.36359/page-10#post-1022439
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lee and battles
I've also been grappling with multitude of decisions related to delivering optimal AC power into my dedicated basement listening room. Many thanks to Blake for sharing so much valuable information, which has been super helpful! I've been able to source very high quality in-wall AC cables for a fraction of what it would cost from "audiophile" brands.

Please follow my AC powerline journey (and others) through this WBF thread:
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/thre...ddiffusors-big-dig.36359/page-10#post-1022439
 
Newer to forum, first post.
This is a great article. I have 6 dedicated lines (so far) but standard Romex so probably 10 gauge. Not twisted. Electrician coming back in a few weeks. I see a redo coming, LOL. Couple questions:
I have APEX monos. Currently each of the 4 plugs (2 each amp) into its own dedicated line. Does this mitigate the need for thicker Romex? I have to check but I think the lines are between 40 and 50 feet from panel.
I'm now thinking sub panel. Is there a specific Eaton sub panel model/part number I should be looking at? Little confusing using Google. So many options.
Instead of crazy money for a power conditioner for the front end (paying a lot for chassis etc. -do I even need one with dedicated lines and sub panel) can a transformer (or whatever is needed) be added at the sub panel? If yes, what specifically should I look into?

Cheers!
Bob
 
@battles
I don't know why I posted #4 to try a battery. I must have been in a haze or not reading what you wrote. I'm glad the room worked out. Great power is never a let down. It always benefits.

I am starting to twist just my hot and neutral and leave the ground lightly wound in the bundle. I measure better result with neutral to ground mV.

How is the #6 compared to #10? Did you splay the wires and land them under one screw, or spread them across the 2 screws at the duplex.

I am all about the SqD NQ panelboards now. They are silver coated copper bus. I have to do a lot of sourcing to get the copper neutral and lugs. But the parts are available. Then I strip it completely, polish the contacts with 4000 grit honing paste, then wash and deox the whole thing. Very time consuming, but a fantastic result. The deox very much helps retard oxidation on the silver bus. I have observed treated bars in my shop sitting for close to 2 years and they have not changed since I treated them. The NQ panels are 20 inch wide and 6 inches deep. That does make for lots of working space inside and the ability to keep wires away from each other.
I don't mess with the QO or Benjamin any more. Benjamin was to follow a single high power isolation transformer. Code allows me to use a SqD now. I like SqD breakers. Best out there.

I have recently used a Furutech NCF rhodium duplex. I really like it. I am thinking of modifying my Torus RM20 with some of those duplex. As well as adding a better power cord. I see no reason multiple RM20 would not operate as well as a single large unit. And they can sit where you want them in the room. Accept they should stay away from preamps. My modifications would void the warranty. But I am always seeking ways to get to maximum performance. This may be a way. I might also capture the power cord instead of using a IEC.

@duchman221
You want 2 separate circuits per amp. Or 4 circuits total. Larger wire is not the answer to less circuits. You need 2 circuit breakers per amp. Or 4 CB total to feed the 2 monoblocks. Larger wire does not allow you to use a larger CB. The duplex is not rated larger than 20A, so the breaker can only be 20A to protect the duplex.

You can try 8 or 6 awg wire. Its way harder to work with. I find using a double duplex box with a single outlet for larger wire makes it way easier to land the duplex without kinking the wire.

If you used #10 wire, you could use a double duplex box and bring 2 complete circuits to the single box and land one circuit per duplex. Or you can put 2 boxes next to each other on the wall. Up to you.

If using #10, go to VH Audio and get the cryo #10. Very good wire for a inexpensive price. You can not twist Rome style wire. If your going to twist and pull in pipe, you have to use THHN or MTW. You could slit the jaciket on the cryo romex and remove the conductor and twist it, then pull in pipe, but its not rated for that. The wire inside does not have labeling on the jacket. And you would want to use cotton gloves to handle the bare copper ground to keep oils from your hands from damaging it. Or just pull a new THHN ground. but now your really in unknown territory on what it may sound like.

There are some reputable cryogenic facilities that can take a spool of wire and treat it for you. It may cost about $400 a spool to have them done correctly.
 

Attachments

  • 20231013_175551.jpg
    20231013_175551.jpg
    908.9 KB · Views: 46
  • 20231016_132245.jpg
    20231016_132245.jpg
    711.8 KB · Views: 44
  • 20240205_161959.jpg
    20240205_161959.jpg
    1,016.7 KB · Views: 46
What a job very intense in layout and design.
has anyone tried a larger ground wire compared to neutral and hot conductors ?
curious if it effects the total noise when measured ?
Rex is the most experienced person I know in related power distribution for audio.
over sizing the ground in distribution might have a possibility of effecting total noise .
 
You got me to try doubling up grounds in the past Al. I may have heard something. Not sure. As in, a calm or less audible noise. I have even tried using Mil Spec Silver Coated Copper wire. Just as a ground along with solid copper hot and neutral. I can't say its something to do. I have also lashed all sorts of wires of differing material and gauge to the chassis of equipment and taken it to a variety of places such as the earth ground at the house or to a billet of copper with drilled and milled bolt holes to bond to it. Again, nothing earth shattering happened. For the most part, I could never say I heard anything. So it all comes out.

Lets think of it this way. What are you trying to do? Your trying to make the lowest impedance path possible for stray voltage on the ground to dissipate away from the equipment to earth. Question is, why is the voltage there in the first place. Is it from your gear. Is it induced from an outside source. I think its induced from the power supplies in the equipment. Just my theory. Is a low impedance path enough to get it to want to leave. Or does it need encouragement. Most important, how do you stop it from manifesting in the first place. If your equipment bleads voltage onto the chassis/ground, an efficient ground can not get rid of it. It can give it a place to go. But, its always being replaced. Or shall I say, produced.

I do believe there is something going on with ground boxes. You know, the Entreq type box with paizotic crystals. I can put a voltage meter on a piece of gear in numerous locations on the chassis and measure mV of potential that seems to float in intensity. I have not been able to reliably drain this voltage. Not sure what would happen with a good ground box. Nothing happened with the cheap one I tried. Again, I think my equipment power supply has induced voltage that attaches to it. All the grounding in the world won't stop my gear from doing this. Some short of shielding may, but that has its own audible affects.
FWIW, people who say ground boxes work well, generally have about $10,000 and more into ground boxes.

Doubling the ground wire is something people can try. There is also running a 4 wire branch circuits and bonding the unused wire at the panel and not at the duplex or not bonding it at all on either end. People swear you can hear something. Not sure.

One reason I may experience less reaction with these techniques is my panel has 0 Aluminum in it. I have a all copper path from the strike at my meter into my panel and all throughout my panels and grounding system. This is a large reduction in noise right off the bat. I have sat 2 panels on the floor in my basement and moved a Circuit Breaker with attached branch wires to the room from one panel to the next panel. One panel was a regular loadcenter everyone uses. The other was a polished all copper panel I optimize. It was a massive, very audible difference. On the order of inserting a Torus Isolation transformer into the chain. A very notable calm and quiet in the room and in the music. So, I may already be shedding noise or stray voltage that others have not addressed using a aluminum loadcenter. So will double ground or larger ground work for others. Maybe. You can always try if your running wire in a pipe.
 
The panel mods you do matter and you are one has put the time in to test it.
While the goal is to listen I feel we need to measure as well.
if we can't measure things and it still makes a change in sound , this means we don't know why.
not having the ground path twisted on power wires makes good sense.
audio equipment grounding internally is complex. Where methods used can conflict and still have the best outcomes anyway.
a ground is a drain in my thoughts and it's not just a voltage drain in voltage but also noise above the power freq as an example 60 hertz in the USA .
No matter what we but there.qill be inherently a voltage potential on the ground path.
old school stuff had the power supplies in its own box for this reason.
Now we don't lol.
if you looked inside a well made preamp or phono pre amp the signal path and grounding is of the most important since the gain is high.
The varying ground potential in our audio devices causes a multitude issues and hum is the least if not heard.
well made power supplies should need little help on power , but it's obvious it's needed.
Switching power supplies are very common now and they cause noise backwards on the power we are using.
Have you tried ferret bars on the ground and power lines to outlets ?
They do need to be designed but do have positive effects .

Old school pre amps had iso transformers on inputs and tube ones on the output. This is also useful in isolation for each device.

Most devices are fine in there own , it's the daisy chain killing things.
Take a battery source and connect to your pre amp things change and if your battery device can drive your amp this matters even more.
It can lead you to a base line of low noise .
Use a scope to see the noise per device on the signal.

In my office I had a set of Maggie's and a huge krell ksa200b amp
The lights would dim and stay dimmed a bit
Yet the sound was fine.
Ran 2 circuits from panel to my room
6/3 Romex both circuits same phase
Nothing special.
Lights don't dim but when I measured ona scope little changed and I can't say I heard anything.
And this was on a few preamps
but in NYC anything I tried had an obvious effect . My thoughts there was much more noise.
1200 mv is a lot of voltage potential, what was used measure things. What freq was the noise , did it vary . Did the noise show above the cycles or was it distorted on the waves.
This i would like to know
One last question when you said two circuits per amp outlet how did you mean it?
Two 20 amps breakers same phase ?
Some panels have the main this way a quad 100 for a 200 amp main
 
One last question when you said two circuits per amp outlet how did you mean it?
Two 20 amps breakers same phase ?
Some panels have the main this way a quad 100 for a 200 amp main
I thought he was saying his gryphon amps are like the large CH precision amps. The have 2 power cords and both cords want a dedicated 20A circuit to feed them. So 2 circuits per monoblock. And I would keep them all on the same phase.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dandylinpsst
The panel mods you do matter and you are one has put the time in to test it.
While the goal is to listen I feel we need to measure as well.
if we can't measure things and it still makes a change in sound , this means we don't know why.
not having the ground path twisted on power wires makes good sense.
audio equipment grounding internally is complex. Where methods used can conflict and still have the best outcomes anyway.
a ground is a drain in my thoughts and it's not just a voltage drain in voltage but also noise above the power freq as an example 60 hertz in the USA .
No matter what we but there.qill be inherently a voltage potential on the ground path.
old school stuff had the power supplies in its own box for this reason.
Now we don't lol.
if you looked inside a well made preamp or phono pre amp the signal path and grounding is of the most important since the gain is high.
The varying ground potential in our audio devices causes a multitude issues and hum is the least if not heard.
well made power supplies should need little help on power , but it's obvious it's needed.
Switching power supplies are very common now and they cause noise backwards on the power we are using.
Have you tried ferret bars on the ground and power lines to outlets ?
They do need to be designed but do have positive effects .

Old school pre amps had iso transformers on inputs and tube ones on the output. This is also useful in isolation for each device.

Most devices are fine in there own , it's the daisy chain killing things.
Take a battery source and connect to your pre amp things change and if your battery device can drive your amp this matters even more.
It can lead you to a base line of low noise .
Use a scope to see the noise per device on the signal.

In my office I had a set of Maggie's and a huge krell ksa200b amp
The lights would dim and stay dimmed a bit
Yet the sound was fine.
Ran 2 circuits from panel to my room
6/3 Romex both circuits same phase
Nothing special.
Lights don't dim but when I measured ona scope little changed and I can't say I heard anything.
And this was on a few preamps
but in NYC anything I tried had an obvious effect . My thoughts there was much more noise.
1200 mv is a lot of voltage potential, what was used measure things. What freq was the noise , did it vary . Did the noise show above the cycles or was it distorted on the waves.
This i would like to know
One last question when you said two circuits per amp outlet how did you mean it?
Two 20 amps breakers same phase ?
Some panels have the main this way a quad 100 for a 200 amp main
I should back up. I would say there are 2 types of noise. Induced by our gear and RF from the air. And yes, they can be from 60 hertz to 100,000 or more hertz.

Both are a problem. And really, I'm out of my league to guess how to deal with them.

I have no problem with oversizing or doubling up grounds. Even using way oversize wire may be sonically optimum for some.

Generally I try to stick with what works and what is code compliant. Many duplex are fine with #10. Only 1 or 2 are good with a #8. Not that a #8 or #6 can't be safely landed on the phase and neutral. The problem is the ground. Clamps on the hot and neutral are easy to land large wire under. That small screw or flimsy clamp on the ground make landing 2 wires very difficult. Landing an 8 on the ground???? A 10 barely fits in the ground clamp. 8 is to large. One probably has to use a ring or spade on the wire. I don't like these devices. I would rather a direct connection. How do you connect 2 wires to the duplex ground?
 
@battles
I don't know why I posted #4 to try a battery. I must have been in a haze or not reading what you wrote. I'm glad the room worked out. Great power is never a let down. It always benefits.

I am starting to twist just my hot and neutral and leave the ground lightly wound in the bundle. I measure better result with neutral to ground mV.
* this was the approach I implemented. Hot and neutral twisted and the ground loose in the counduit
How is the #6 compared to #10? Did you splay the wires and land them under one screw, or spread them across the 2 screws at the duplex.
* the Furutech GTX-D NFC Rhodium receptacles have two landing clamps on each side. With the clamps fully open and the strands evenly spread and divided into two bundles, each strand bundle was able to fit under each clamp opening prior to tightening. The #6 was noticeably better on my amp (attack, authority, dynamics, image weight) whereas the cryo’d solid core #10 was better on my power conditioner (DAC, preamp, phono). The #10 on my sources (not amp) was more resolving, faster and lively.
I am all about the SqD NQ panelboards now. They are silver coated copper bus. I have to do a lot of sourcing to get the copper neutral and lugs. But the parts are available. Then I strip it completely, polish the contacts with 4000 grit honing paste, then wash and deox the whole thing. Very time consuming, but a fantastic result. The deox very much helps retard oxidation on the silver bus. I have observed treated bars in my shop sitting for close to 2 years and they have not changed since I treated them. The NQ panels are 20 inch wide and 6 inches deep. That does make for lots of working space inside and the ability to keep wires away from each other.
I don't mess with the QO or Benjamin any more. Benjamin was to follow a single high power isolation transformer. Code allows me to use a SqD now. I like SqD breakers. Best out there.

I have recently used a Furutech NCF rhodium duplex. I really like it. I am thinking of modifying my Torus RM20 with some of those duplex. As well as adding a better power cord. I see no reason multiple RM20 would not operate as well as a single large unit. And they can sit where you want them in the room. Accept they should stay away from preamps. My modifications would void the warranty. But I am always seeking ways to get to maximum performance. This may be a way. I might also capture the power cord instead of using a IEC.

@duchman221
You want 2 separate circuits per amp. Or 4 circuits total. Larger wire is not the answer to less circuits. You need 2 circuit breakers per amp. Or 4 CB total to feed the 2 monoblocks. Larger wire does not allow you to use a larger CB. The duplex is not rated larger than 20A, so the breaker can only be 20A to protect the duplex.

You can try 8 or 6 awg wire. Its way harder to work with. I find using a double duplex box with a single outlet for larger wire makes it way easier to land the duplex without kinking the wire.

If you used #10 wire, you could use a double duplex box and bring 2 complete circuits to the single box and land one circuit per duplex. Or you can put 2 boxes next to each other on the wall. Up to you.

If using #10, go to VH Audio and get the cryo #10. Very good wire for an inexpensive price. You can not twist Rome style wire. If your going to twist and pull in pipe, you have to use THHN or MTW. You could slit the jaciket on the cryo romex and remove the conductor and twist it, then pull in pipe, but its not rated for that. The wire inside does not have labeling on the jacket. And you would want to use cotton gloves to handle the bare copper ground to keep oils from your hands from damaging it. Or just pull a new THHN ground. but now your really in unknown territory on what it may sound like.

There are some reputable cryogenic facilities that can take a spool of wire and treat it for you. It may cost about $400 a spool to have them done correctly.
Hi Rex - hope you’re well. Answering your questions above. See *
 
  • Like
Reactions: QuadDiffuser
* this was the approach I implemented. Hot and neutral twisted and the ground loose in the counduit

* the Furutech GTX-D NFC Rhodium receptacles have two landing clamps on each side. With the clamps fully open and the strands evenly spread and divided into two bundles, each strand bundle was able to fit under each clamp opening prior to tightening. The #6 was noticeably better on my amp (attack, authority, dynamics, image weight) whereas the cryo’d solid core #10 was better on my power conditioner (DAC, preamp, phono). The #10 on my sources (not amp) was more resolving, faster and lively.



Hi Rex - hope you’re well. Answering your questions above. See *
You're saying you ran branch wires to a duplex of #6 for the phase and neutral and a solid #10 for the ground?

When you metioned the cryo #10 romex. You did not alter it, correct? You used the phase, neutral and ground. Or did you abandon the internal ground and add another ground?
Thanks
 
I thought he was saying his gryphon amps are like the large CH precision amps. The have 2 power cords and both cords want a dedicated 20A circuit to feed them. So 2 circuits per monoblock. And I would keep them all on the same phase.
The Gryphon Mephisto stereo has 2 x 20A Inputs on the chassis. The Gryphon Mephisto Solo (monoblocks) only have 1 x 20 amp input for each amp.
 
Last edited:
You are correct-2 power chords per amp. Each to a dedicated circuit.
I can place a sub panel in a closet (closet is above mechanical room with main box) 15 ft away from left amp and about 5 feet from right amp. I know this sounds crazy but should I not hardwire from the sub panel directly to the amps and other pieces? Run a conduit line to the amp to a 20 amp IEC connector like: https://eti-research.com/connector/legato-20-amp-iec/
I am going to die with the amps right where they are. So I don't care that the wiring would not be movable. Saves power cables and duplexes. And would not metal conduit reject extraneous noise?
 

About us

  • What’s Best Forum is THE forum for high end audio, product reviews, advice and sharing experiences on the best of everything else. This is THE place where audiophiles and audio companies discuss vintage, contemporary and new audio products, music servers, music streamers, computer audio, digital-to-analog converters, turntables, phono stages, cartridges, reel-to-reel tape machines, speakers, headphones and tube and solid-state amplification. Founded in 2010 What’s Best Forum invites intelligent and courteous people of all interests and backgrounds to describe and discuss the best of everything. From beginners to life-long hobbyists to industry professionals, we enjoy learning about new things and meeting new people, and participating in spirited debates.

Quick Navigation

User Menu

Steve Williams
Site Founder | Site Owner | Administrator
Ron Resnick
Site Owner | Administrator
Julian (The Fixer)
Website Build | Marketing Managersing