My Clean Power Adventures

tmallin

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As I mentioned above, this type of device seems to take a week to settle in after interrupting the power to it. Thus, an on/off switch really won't make for a valid A/B comparison, in my opinion. It seems odd that Dave chose to put such a switch on this device; there is no such switch on the UberBUSS. Why not just pull the plug out of either the back of the unit (assuming the cord is not captured) or the wall outlet?

My Z-1 also has a switch and a very short (18 inches?) captured cord. In its case the switch adjusts the level of power factor correction applied and you can hear the difference through A/Bing that switch while the unit stays plugged in and thus powered up. The labeled "A" position is almost always the best sounding setting for it, I've found.
 

Joe P

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I checked what the BetaBuss (it has a captured cord) does in my sustem with a Entech Noise Sniffer.

This is much better than your A/B comparison.
 

tmallin

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I have a P.I. Audio Group BUSS Depot (fka BetaBUSS) on order. Pending its arrival I went on eBay and ordered and received one of the Monster Entech Noise Sniffers you mentioned. I left my MIT Z-1 Stabilizer and P.I. Audio Group UberBUSSes plugged in. Following the instructions, I adjusted the Sniffer to read 100 on an "unfiltered" outlet I could easily reach in my kitchen. I then tried various other "unfiltered" outlets in the house and got readings between 90 and 100. That same reading occurred on the companion receptacle in the outlet into which the MIT Z-1 Stabilizer is plugged.

However, when I plugged the Sniffer into a filtered outlet on one of the UberBUSSes in my audio room, it read 0.1. The UberBUSSes are alone seemingly doing an excellent job of filtering out whatever noise the Entech is measuring.

The final arbiter of the sonic effect of such devices is the ear, however. I'll let you know what I hear once I receive the Buss Depot and try it out in place of my MIT Z-1 Stabilizer.
 

Marcus

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For measuring EMI garbage I use this:

37A2A44E-2D58-43D6-A846-11D0BA115575.jpeg
Apart from numbers, you also get a sonic representation of EMI pollution. Unfiltered outlets in my place show results between 200 and 1.800, sometimes even over 2.000. Plugged into the UberBUSS, measurements fall to 40 to 200. I know this type of measurement is quite primitive by professional measuring standards and by some consequently irrelevant, but think it helps to show a basic state of your power line quality.
 

dBe

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The BUSS-Depot switch Is there to prevent an accidental shock when it is unplugged from the wall. There are internal safety resistors, but they take a few seconds to defeat the PFC network. There is always That Guy that sticks the 9V battery to his tongue on a dare! Having exposed blades on the plug necessitates the switch. I’ll ship end of the week...
 
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tmallin

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Yes, thanks for mentioning that, Dave. I only figured that out once I read through the entire thread about the BUSS-Depot over on Audio Nervosa and saw your comment there about the reason for the switch. Safety first, I agree!
 

tmallin

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I have now added the BUSS Depot. Some discussion of it back when it was initially called the Beta BUSS is on the Audio Nervosa forum here.

From the beginning, before full break-in had taken place, already there was an obvious further increase in three dimensionality of images and staging, an increase in the overall "ease" of the presentation, a warming up of the midbass/lower midrange, greater bass extension, and a seeming strengthening and clarification of the entire bass range as though a bit of equalization had been applied. Bass lines are stronger, richer, and yet also easier to follow. High frequencies seem yet cleaner and more relaxed.

The BUSS Depot is smallish black box with a short captive cord terminated in a Furutech three-prong electrical plug. There is also an on/off switch. Nothing plugs into the unit. According to Dave's latest thinking (contrary to some of the earlier posts in the Audio Nervosa discussion), the BUSS Depot should be plugged into an outlet which is on a "branch circuit," meaning an outlet powered by the phase of 120-volt electrical current serving your home that is NOT used by the outlets powering your audio system. That is where I have it plugged in.

It's been over ten days since installation and the BUSS Depot seems fully broken in now. The enhancements I mentioned above remain. Added are further stability of images, roundedness of images, and blacker-yet backgrounds.

I don't know what effects this device would have on a system where the P.I. Audio Group's UberBUSSes, special outlets, and Triode Wire Labs power cords are not used. But for $315 delivered, in my system, the BUSS Depot is a bargain. It works extremely well together with the UberBUSS, clearly bettering my old MIT Z-1 Stabilizer in this respect.
This $315-delivered unit seems like a stunning bargain in terms of increased performance per dollar. And this is in the context of a system which already has fairly sophisticated power purification
 

Joe P

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I had no doubt the P.I. Audio Group's BUSS Depot/Beta BUSS would outperform MIT Z-1 Stabilizer.
 

kach22i

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From the opening post:

All grounding and neutral wires for these up-to-six circuits were star-grounded back to the same post in the service box which holds the incoming ground wiring: there was direct copper-to-copper wire connection between all the grounds used by the audio system and the incoming ground wire. The grounds were referenced to an 8-foot solid copper post driven into the ground just outside the service entrance, and were bonded to a cold water pipe just above floor level some 50 feet away. All other unused ground wires for that dedicated 200-amp service box were disconnected and insulated from the service entrance and the circuit breakers for the unused circuits were open.

End of quote.

Why also ground to the cold water pipe?

On my roof top TV antenna, the antenna is grounded. The mast is also grounded. Each of these groundings has it's own copper post in the earth.

So I understand that multiple grounds can help, at least with TV signals via roof top antenna.

Second question: what would happen if each dedicated audio circuit was grounded not only to the main panel ground, but to a stand alone copper rod in the earth?
 

Marcus

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I have a P.I. Audio Group BUSS Depot (fka BetaBUSS) on order. Pending its arrival I went on eBay and ordered and received one of the Monster Entech Noise Sniffers you mentioned. I left my MIT Z-1 Stabilizer and P.I. Audio Group UberBUSSes plugged in. Following the instructions, I adjusted the Sniffer to read 100 on an "unfiltered" outlet I could easily reach in my kitchen. I then tried various other "unfiltered" outlets in the house and got readings between 90 and 100. That same reading occurred on the companion receptacle in the outlet into which the MIT Z-1 Stabilizer is plugged.

However, when I plugged the Sniffer into a filtered outlet on one of the UberBUSSes in my audio room, it read 0.1. The UberBUSSes are alone seemingly doing an excellent job of filtering out whatever noise the Entech is measuring.
Have you tried measuring with the BUSS Depot plugged in? Would be interesting to see results.
 

Verastarr

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Dec 4, 2015
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I also do something similar with the Verastarr AC Distro block Its a passive power strip with 3 x Furutech NCF R receptacles. I use mineral Goo as well, Quartz, Tourmaline and 4 others in a high performance compound. Its faraday shielded inside and has a ground lug on its chassis The wiring scheme inside uses pure solid silver bussbars that make a home run to every individual socket, with other pathways to make sure current delivery is fully equalized, NCF R IEC inlet as well and Ive run my Rig AC as a feed off the meter box outside the house to a secondary panel in my listening room closet wall, and Ive run 4 separate 8 foot long high purity 101 OFHC solid copper rods plated in pure silver just on the outside of the wall where the rig sits , so the actual Rods are no more than 12 feet from the rig. I have them paired off and isolated , so 2 and 2 rods, one pair for safety or chassis ground and the other pair for signal ground. all the feeds out of the panel are 10AWG Silver plated copper in PTFE and every feed has its live and Neutral twisted and inside conduit pipe and beside it is the ground wire in its own conduit pipe. I am about to test with dual massive 7Kva Isolation transformers that came out of Bel Labs in New Jersey . I will most likely put them behind the main diuplex receptacles feeding the rig as ive got 6 circuits on that front wall behind the rack. 4 of them are 240V because I like to run my mono amplifiers at 240V for more efficient lower current operation and ultimately balanced AC. 2 receptacles are 20A for everything else on the rig split in to dual Verastarr AC Power Distro blocks, one for digital gear one for analog. Im guessing 30 to 60 days from now I'll have employed all aspects of this config and I'll post my results on my OCD HiFi Guy Youtube channel.
So Marcus, You have Botticelli ? How many pair are even in the USA ? Ive had my eye on them for years and know Daniele. For now its Analysis Audio Amphitryon and current Jeff Rowland class A/B along with some NAT Audio Class A SET . You ought to try your Alsy ribbons with ribbon speaker cables they respond very well over round wire..
So I can second what Tmallin is stating here. Very effective methods...
 

tmallin

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From the opening post:

All grounding and neutral wires for these up-to-six circuits were star-grounded back to the same post in the service box which holds the incoming ground wiring: there was direct copper-to-copper wire connection between all the grounds used by the audio system and the incoming ground wire. The grounds were referenced to an 8-foot solid copper post driven into the ground just outside the service entrance, and were bonded to a cold water pipe just above floor level some 50 feet away. All other unused ground wires for that dedicated 200-amp service box were disconnected and insulated from the service entrance and the circuit breakers for the unused circuits were open.

End of quote.

Why also ground to the cold water pipe?

On my roof top TV antenna, the antenna is grounded. The mast is also grounded. Each of these groundings has it's own copper post in the earth.

So I understand that multiple grounds can help, at least with TV signals via roof top antenna.

Second question: what would happen if each dedicated audio circuit was grounded not only to the main panel ground, but to a stand alone copper rod in the earth?

The key to why the electrical service box is connected by a heavy copper wire to the incoming cold water pipe is the concept of bonding. Bonding is required by the electrical code in my area and most, I think. See this Wikipedia discussion of electrical bonding.

On the grounding question, all items fed electricity from the service box should be grounded to the service box and that box should in turn be grounded to a single stake in moist ground very near the service box. Multiple grounding stakes would be counterproductive and possibly unsafe since they might have slightly different potentials to ground.
 
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alfa100

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Took time to read and I will reread. I can imagine how long it took to painstakingly implement. Must have taken many a sleepless night . Thank you tmallin
 

microstrip

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The key to why the electrical service box is connected by a heavy copper wire to the incoming cold water pipe is the concept of bonding. Bonding is required by the electrical code in my area and most, I think. See this Wikipedia discussion of electrical bonding.

On the grounding question, all items fed electricity from the service box should be grounded to the service box and that box should in turn be grounded to a single stake in moist ground very near the service box. Multiple grounding stakes would be counterproductive and possibly unsafe since they might have slightly different potentials to ground.

Connecting to the incoming cold water pipe is illegal in Europe since long. Here every house must have a grounding point connected to a grounding rods or other types of low resistance connection to earth. Multiple rods are benefic and can be mandatory in some cases but must all be connected to the same grounding point - we can have separate ground lines in the house.

Grounding is a simply a safety issue - our aim is simply to make it the less detrimental as possible to our audio systems. Most times its wiring structure will interfere with noise - unfortunately due to inconsistent grounding systems used by manufacturers the safety and the noise minimization are conflicting requirements.
 
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Clipper

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Tmallin Thank You ! That was a informative read to say the least ,
 

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Ron Resnick

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Is Hosa D5S-6 CAIG DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner the current version of the diluted CAIG Pro GXL/GX5 Gold spray?
 

Marcus

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Have you tried measuring with the BUSS Depot plugged in? Would be interesting to see results.

BUSSDepot OFF:
CA7ED9EB-2DEB-4C17-9825-78DF7FD002C9.jpeg

BUSSDepot ON:
29A8EF9F-8866-4B7C-9FAB-678058E4BA4F.jpeg
 

Amir

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Grounding Schemes

As time went on, more and more of the components I used had earth-grounded three-prong power plugs. In addition, with passing years the amount of RFI and EMI in the atmosphere and on the power line continued to increase as computers, Wi-Fi, cell phones, cable TV, satellite TV and just general industry proliferated.

The movement toward more digital audio and video components undoubtedly also produced larger amounts of high frequency electrical noise on the power line and elsewhere. I remember my experience with the first DAC I ever purchased, a Theta Generation III, which produced so much RFI that it wiped out the TV reception on all channels below UHF received by my TV antenna mounted about 20 feet away in the attic above my listening room—and that was before 1990 when I moved into the house with the dedicated audio room and power system. Needless to say, I sold that Theta, but even other one-box CD players seemed to produce some visible distortion of VHF TV channels received by my antenna.

One question I grappled with was whether to "cheat" any of those earth grounds on audio equipment for best sound and, if so, which ones. Classic grounding theory calls for star-grounding a system to a single earth ground back at the electrical service. But by this time, based on my experiments and experience, I'd grown skeptical enough of accepted electrical practices to listen rather than just follow formulas in my attempt to get closer to that reference sound. About that time I wrote an article for The Stereo Times, "A Well-Grounded Education" which explains theory, my experiments, and my findings, which I won't rehash here.

Mondial MAGIC: The Remedy for Cable-TV-Induced System Hum

One particular modern source of electrical noise, Cable-TV-induced hum, does have a complete and easy low-cost solution. Back around 2005, 60 – 120 Hz hum on all audio/video system inputs where a cable TV is connected to any system component was a recognized problem with some cable TV providers. It is much less common now that cable is distributed in many USA areas via fiber optic cable rather than coax. It's caused by a difference in grounding potential between the cable coax and the rest of your system grounds. There were a few isolation boxes on the market aimed at fixing this sort of problem. I used to use the one marketed by Mondial (then Klipsch) known as the Mondial Antenna Ground Isolation Circuit or "MAGIC" box in the USA. It did in fact work like magic to eliminate such cable-TV-caused problems. I no longer have the problem and no longer use that isolation box. But if you still face such a problem, you can find used units on eBay, I'm sure.

DNM HFTNs

If you happen to own DNM interconnects and/or speakers cables, adding these HFTN devices will further cleanse and clarify the sound you are hearing. They won't counteract the lightweight bass of such cables and interconnects, but they will further clean up the sound in the way DNM cables can seem to. They are a worthwhile addition if you've already made the investment in DNM cables and want to stick with them. But the HFTNs, while fully compatible with the EVS Ground Enhancers discussed next, make a relatively small improvement in the sound and the price is more expensive by a factor of 10.

Electronic Visionary Systems (EVS) Grond Enhancers

I've written about the EVS Ground Enhancers in other discussions in Tom's Corner here and a bit more here, so I won't rehash my description in this thread. Suffice it to say that I attached these small, inexpensive devices to most every component in my system for over a decade, both at my former house with the basement audio room and in my current home's audio room system. They are most beneficial when attached to the speaker binding post inputs, next most effective on the amp binding post outputs, but adding them to an unused input or output of each component or attached to a grounding screw on a component usually further enhances the positive effects. Most all aspects of the reproduced sound seem at least a little better, with increased blackness of background, more naturally bass-weighted tonal balance, and increased audibility of small details while simultaneously significantly reducing perceived brightness, being particularly significant.

The only downside of these devices is a slight—and I do mean slight—truncation of high level dynamics, most noticeable on piano transients where perhaps the tiniest smidge of added grunge could also be noted. I lived with this known issue for a decade because of the many salutary benefits of these devices and because, in my subjective evaluation, the negative effects were truly tiny compared to the benefits.

But within the last few months I decided to re-evaluate the effect of the Ground Enhancers in light of the fact that my system is totally different these days since I last checked their effect. Lo and behold, while I definitely still preferred certain aspects of the presentation (more natural tonal balance, less brightness) with the Ground Enhancers, dynamics seemed to be unleashed and the system just sounded more "relaxed" without them. Removing the Ground Enhancers led to the discovery (or I should say re-discovery) of the goodness of another old friend, the . . . .

MIT Z-1 Stabilizer (Original Version)

Here we have an oldie, but still exceptionally goodie! This Richard-Marsh-designed unit was greatly loved by HP of The Absolute Sound. It was on his recommendation that I bought one and then two of these original MIT Z-1 Stabilizer units, which at the time cost about $800 each new. I had the original version which looked like a cream-colored breadbox which nothing plugged into. It had no electrical outlets in it, just a short 3-prong electrical cord. It is best used plugged into one of the outlets on the same circuit feeding your power amplifier.

The operating theory is basically parallel line conditioning via power factor correction and line filtering. Richard Marsh explains the operating theory in an old MIT whitepaper here.

In my initial years of use of the Z in my old basement room, I learned than one Z-1 worked better than two. Regardless of how I deployed the two Z-1s I had, the effect was never as sonically beneficial as just using one connected to a receptacle which also fed one of my amplifiers. Two seemed somehow to "fight" each other, stretching images and somewhat confusing the soundstage.

Using one, however, brought high frequency hash and brittleness to a new low, creating more filigreed highs, improved all aspects of bass and midrange reproduction, lowered perceived system noise, made the amps sound more powerful, enhanced clarity and the audibility of low-level detail, enhanced the blackness of the background, reduced all sorts of high frequency hash, brittleness, and edge, and expanded the soundstage in all dimensions while more firmly rooting and rounding images on that stage. Using a single Z-1 moved the sound of my basement system closer to that reference sound I heard when turning off the rest of the home's power than any single technique or combination of techniques I'd tried. To a lesser degree, the Z-1 also seemed to improve the sound and video quality of other systems elsewhere in the house, despite it being plugged into the audio system's dedicated electrical system.

But after I discovered the EVS Ground Enhancers, they took top honors in approaching my reference sound. In addition, the combination of the MIT Z-1 Stabilizer and the Ground Enhancers seemed not so good as either separately. Thus, in moments of weakness, I ended up selling first one and then the other MIT Z-1 Stabilizer.

Once I eliminated the EVS Ground Enhancers from my current system in my current home, I thought I'd try the Z-1 again. The original version is not common on the used market. Fortunately, I was able to find one in good shape on e-Bay for $200 and purchased it.

Okay, what can I say? After warm-up/break-in of about 100 hours, this thing, for $200, truly made an incredible improvement to my current system minus the EVS Ground Enhancers—the same kinds of improvements I described for the Z-1 above, but on major steroids! In addition, the slight compression of high-level dynamic range caused by the Ground Enhancers did not occur with the Z-1. As before, the Z-1 also somewhat improves sound and video quality elsewhere in the home. If you can find one, I highly recommend snapping it up . . . that is, unless you want to spend more than 10 times that much to take the next trip with me, the . . .

[Continued below]
Thanks many thanks for useful information.

the only thing that I should add is " to find right AC polarity the lower chassis voltage is not allways better" .
Sometimes higher voltage has better sound
 
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