Entreq Tellus grounding

Hi,

I ordered the Pluton from my dealer and have the following questions

1. The Pluton has 3 boxes inside with 6 posts, can I successfully ground our system with the following equipment. Would it overload the Pluton and undermine the Sound Quality?

* Two Mono Block Power Amps (mass 46 kg/ea)
* Pre-amp (mass 24.6 kg)
* Dac (mass 24.4 kg)
* Digital Voicing Equalizer (mass 14.9 kg)

View attachment 90598

2. What is the best way to ground our equipment? Is it via Chassis by unscrewing one of the bolts on the back Or via an empty slot either RCA or XLR?
Hello Nathan.

I have also got your question on mail where you describe your system more in detail, so I know little more about it then we see in the post here.

It is a very fine system. Glad that you will try Pluton. You mention in the mail that you also look at Hero and you are right, Hero would be the perfect match for your system, but I think Pluton will handle it fine. Since it same cells in Olympus Infi T, Pluton and Hero, you always can add more cells later.

The first you need to change when you connect compared to the drawing you attached is that each monoblock need to have their own cell. Connect one monoblock to the left cell and one monoblock to the right cell. That means there will be one binding post on each of this cells that you cannot use.

Then on the cell in the middle you can connect your Pre Amp and DAC. I think it will work fine. But I´m afraid it can be to much if you also connect the Digital Voicing together with the Pre and DAC. You can test and see what you think, but I think it will be too much. Sorry. Ask your dealer for a test with Olympus 10 Tungsten for the Digital Voicing when you have get the Pluton. I think Olymp 10 T will handle it.
RegardingWhere to connect. I use to prefer go for signal ground with either RCA, XLR or use any other free connector.

I hope it will be a good upgrade in your very fine system.
 
Hi,

I ordered the Pluton from my dealer and have the following questions

1. The Pluton has 3 boxes inside with 6 posts, can I successfully ground our system with the following equipment. Would it overload the Pluton and undermine the Sound Quality?

* Two Mono Block Power Amps (mass 46 kg/ea)
* Pre-amp (mass 24.6 kg)
* Dac (mass 24.4 kg)
* Digital Voicing Equalizer (mass 14.9 kg)

View attachment 90598

2. What is the best way to ground our equipment? Is it via Chassis by unscrewing one of the bolts on the back Or via an empty slot either RCA or XLR?
Congrats on this...very exciting! I see that P-O has already responded and he is literally 'the source'. Look forward to reading about your adventures. Do note, I did a trial of 1 Pluton (and 1 Olympia Infinity Tungsten which is basically ONE module)...and it took 5.5 days to go 'BAM!'. Until then it was 'nice, I guess' (20 minutes - 2 hours), 'hmmm...nicer but still expensive for what it does (3 days), 'hunh? that is a very nice surprise...probably going to buy it, but lets see. (day 4/4.5)...to 'WOW...now THAT is superlative..." (Day 5.5)

I have then been doing a 2nd trial with an additional Pluton to give everything its own module...plus 'super-charging' each monoblock by not giving each mono its own module, but ALSO splitting the single Olympus Infinity Tungsten to give '50%' of its module to each monoblock as well. So each mono gets 1.5 modules.

So far, so fantastic...and we are now finetuning with Peak 4s and some isolation.
 
Thank you P-O and LL21 for your reply and feedback.

1) I read that it is a good idea not to mix digital and analog units to the same box, particularly Silver Tellus. So in our case with the Pluton, is it ok to ground both Pre-amp (Analogue) and Dac (Digital) together with the same box as per P-O suggested? I want to go with the Hero but it is a very expensive unit

2) Can you also elaborate little on how we can ground our speakers? Can it be done together with the Pluton or I really need to get the Hero instead?

3) Would you say the following are the proper way to ground our equipment?

Accuphase Pre-amp C-3900
c-3900_b_e.jpeg

Accuphase Power Amp A-250

a-250_b.jpeg

Accuphase Dac DC-1000

dc-1000_rear_e.jpeg


Thank you

Nathan
 
Hi Nathan,

P-O is the obvious maestro. My own personal understanding:

1. Yes, I have read that separating digital from analog directly is a good idea...but I am not an analog guy so have no experience myself.
2. Yes, I have personally connected (in my first experiment with Pluton) both the DAC and Pre in one module, and after 5.5 days, it was fantastic.
3. As for grounding speakers, I believe if you look on the Entreq website in their 'Ground Box Kits' under Products, they have a package for grounding speakers through the speaker terminals. Here is the link:


4. In regards to grounding your amp or speakers, the majority of the time, using the negative post is fine...but there are definitely amps (Vitus and Robert Koda are two) where they have DC running on the line or something and therefore you CANNOT do this...literally dangerous. Big red bold letters on the back of the Robert Koda about this and in the main manual as well.

5. As for Hero vs Pluton, yes the Hero is literally twice the price...I do know in our case we went with 2 Plutons and an Olympus Infinity Tungsten instead of Hero because we decided to focus on the modules rather than the Cleanus (which the Hero also has). The Hero has 5 modules and 1 Cleanus (plugs into your wall)...the Pluton has 3 modules...so 2 of them makes 6, and we are using 7 at the moment.

Perhaps you try Pluton...and then add the Ground Box Kit for just the speakers which costs much less than a Pluton? Just a thought.
 
With my Entreq Silver Tellus, I am using the dual Atlantis cables. The only thing connected to it is my Lumin X1 and a JL Audio CR-1 Crossover (which is an analog device).

ozzy
 
Hi Nathan,

P-O is the obvious maestro. My own personal understanding:

1. Yes, I have read that separating digital from analog directly is a good idea...but I am not an analog guy so have no experience myself.
2. Yes, I have personally connected (in my first experiment with Pluton) both the DAC and Pre in one module, and after 5.5 days, it was fantastic.
3. As for grounding speakers, I believe if you look on the Entreq website in their 'Ground Box Kits' under Products, they have a package for grounding speakers through the speaker terminals. Here is the link:


4. In regards to grounding your amp or speakers, the majority of the time, using the negative post is fine...but there are definitely amps (Vitus and Robert Koda are two) where they have DC running on the line or something and therefore you CANNOT do this...literally dangerous. Big red bold letters on the back of the Robert Koda about this and in the main manual as well.

5. As for Hero vs Pluton, yes the Hero is literally twice the price...I do know in our case we went with 2 Plutons and an Olympus Infinity Tungsten instead of Hero because we decided to focus on the modules rather than the Cleanus (which the Hero also has). The Hero has 5 modules and 1 Cleanus (plugs into your wall)...the Pluton has 3 modules...so 2 of them makes 6, and we are using 7 at the moment.

Perhaps you try Pluton...and then add the Ground Box Kit for just the speakers which costs much less than a Pluton? Just a thought.
Hi LL21,

Thank you for your feedback. It's really cleared up a lot of things. May I also ask how do you like the Peak 4.
Hi Nathan,

P-O is the obvious maestro. My own personal understanding:

1. Yes, I have read that separating digital from analog directly is a good idea...but I am not an analog guy so have no experience myself.
2. Yes, I have personally connected (in my first experiment with Pluton) both the DAC and Pre in one module, and after 5.5 days, it was fantastic.
3. As for grounding speakers, I believe if you look on the Entreq website in their 'Ground Box Kits' under Products, they have a package for grounding speakers through the speaker terminals. Here is the link:


4. In regards to grounding your amp or speakers, the majority of the time, using the negative post is fine...but there are definitely amps (Vitus and Robert Koda are two) where they have DC running on the line or something and therefore you CANNOT do this...literally dangerous. Big red bold letters on the back of the Robert Koda about this and in the main manual as well.

5. As for Hero vs Pluton, yes the Hero is literally twice the price...I do know in our case we went with 2 Plutons and an Olympus Infinity Tungsten instead of Hero because we decided to focus on the modules rather than the Cleanus (which the Hero also has). The Hero has 5 modules and 1 Cleanus (plugs into your wall)...the Pluton has 3 modules...so 2 of them makes 6, and we are using 7 at the moment.

Perhaps you try Pluton...and then add the Ground Box Kit for just the speakers which costs much less than a Pluton? Just a thought.

Hi LL21 and Ozzy

Thank you very much for your feedback. This cleared up a lot of things for me.

Btw, have you tried the Peak 4? Does it improve significantly comparing to the original wooden cap?
 
applegeekz,
Right now, I am on the fence about the Peak 4. On one hand there is more detail. On the other there may seem to be too much upper midrange emphasis.

ozzy
 
Hi LL21,

Thank you for your feedback. It's really cleared up a lot of things. May I also ask how do you like the Peak 4.


Hi LL21 and Ozzy

Thank you very much for your feedback. This cleared up a lot of things for me.

Btw, have you tried the Peak 4? Does it improve significantly comparing to the original wooden cap?
We have 16 places where we could use a Peak 4...we found the right balance after a lot of work at 11 Peak 4s. We expressly left the other 5 as original wooden. In no places did we prefer Everest over Peak 4...however, there are times when despite the exceptionally well-rounded articulation, natural tonal qualities of the Peak 4...you DO find slivers (I mean slivers) of upper bass/lower midrange tonal density appear to lighten ever-so-slightly.

Again, we DID find tremendous uplift in performance with 11 of 16 binding posts with the Peak 4s...and always Peak 4 over Everest. But we did find 5 places where in putting the Peak 4s (and taking them back out again...and going back and forth repeatedly)...tipped the balance ever so slightly.

We believe we have now found that perfect balance. Hope that helps.
 
With so many posts lately, I would like to offer my opinions in my comments below.

Peak 4 in general is a major improvement over the Everest in all aspect, let alone the K2 or the stock wooden knob. I have 8 Peak 4 in my system right now and will certainly add more whenever I have a sale on my remaining 6 Everest.

My friend has problem with the Peak 4 as well in the high freq. just because of his speakers. He has to use a power conditioner to tame the high freq. I am not going to name his speakers and power conditioner. I never have that problem in my system nor my other friend using diamond tweeters. It all comes down to how you tune your system.

Ozzy: Are you using the original Atlantis or the new Infinity Atlantis ground cable? What you have experienced with the Peak 4 is probably only valid with the Silver Tellus and your ground cable. Mind you that the mineral mixture and the internal structure of the new ground boxes are totally different than the first generation ground boxes. So when you upgrade to the newer ground boxes in the future, you may have a totally new experience.

LL21: What ground cables are you using with those 16 ground posts? I am sure you are having fun and there are a lot of combinations there. You may be able to use more Peak 4 when using different ground cable on certain components to achieve a overall improvement.

Applegeekz: Yes, in a perfect world, Entreq suggest not to mix digital and analog components to the same grounding post or the same ground compartment, but the ground box will not explode if you do that. Your system will sounds better when one extra component was connected to the ground box.

For grounding your speakers (I.e. your amp), please see post #3073. In short, you need two INVIDUAL ground boxes or two INDIVIDUAL ground compartments. You need to understand this concept. P-O has answered your question regarding this using the Pluton.

The ground box kit that LL21 mentioned is just a cheap way for grounding speakers, they are nothing compare to the Olympus Infinity T within the Pluton.

You can try connecting the digital voicing Eq and the DAC to the same ground post or get another individual ground box for the digital voicing EQ and you are all set FOR NOW.

In summary, use any spare RCA or XLR connectors on your pre and DAC for signal grounding. For amp. use the -ve speaker OUTPUT (spade or banana).
 
dts-99,
Yes, I am using the original Atlantis cables. Does the Peak 4 require any break in time?

ozzy
 
dts-99,
Yes, I am using the original Atlantis cables. Does the Peak 4 require any break in time?

ozzy
You may like to try the new Infinity Apollo or Infinity Atlantis cables with the Peak 4. Infinity cables are much improved cables over the original.
I like what the Peak 4 did the second I installed them, may be it needed break-in time to sound even better but who cares. My system just keep getting better the more Peak 4s I added to the mix.
 
So, I think I owe the Peak 4 an apology. About a day before receiving the Peak 4 I installed a new AudioQuest Dragon Source power cord. When first using the power cord everything sounded great. When I installed the Peak 4, I started hearing a strident sound. Especially in the upper mid/ treble region. The bass was also constricted.

Now, I was under the impression that the Dragon power cord with its DBS system required no break in. But I did inquire about it to AudioQuest who responded that it would still need about 150 hours to break in. It's been close to that now and sure enough yesterday I started hearing the glorious sound that I heard from day one with the power cord only perhaps better.

So, as I listen today the sound now is quite enjoyable, the Peak 4 had nothing to do with the unpleasant sound. It was actually caused by the Dragon power cord breaking in.

I must say the difference during break in and now is quite remarkable.

ozzy
 
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So, I think I owe the Peak 4 an apology. About a day before receiving the Peak 4 I installed a new AudioQuest Dragon Source power cord. When first using the power cord everything sounded great. When I installed the Peak 4, I started hearing a strident sound. Especially in the upper mid/ treble region. The bass was also constricted.

Now, I was under the impression that the Dragon power cord with its DBS system required no break in. But I did inquire about it to AudioQuest who responded that it would still need about 150 hours to break in. It's been close to that now and sure enough yesterday I started hearing the glorious sound that I heard from day one with the power cord only perhaps better.

So, as I listen today the sound now is quite enjoyable, the Peak 4 had nothing to do with the unpleasant sound. It was actually caused by the Dragon power cord breaking in.

I must say the difference during break in and now is quite remarkable.

ozzy
That you took the effort to come back should be lauded...not everyone would bother. And this is particularly helpful to everyone who has been reading this.

Of course, NOW the question is: do you think you have any sense of what the Peak 4 actually IS doing in your system? Do you need to pull it out and then put it back in after a few minutes and let is settle back in (often immediately but definitely should have a good sense in about 20 minutes or so)? (Note, it can take much longer to return to 100% peak performance.)
 
LL21,
Thanks. I will pull the Peak 4 in the next few days. I want to make sure the Dragon is fully ready first.

ozzy
 
LL21,
Thanks. I will pull the Peak 4 in the next few days. I want to make sure the Dragon is fully ready first.

ozzy
Sounds good...enjoy the new cable...sounds like a success in your system.
 
Hi all,

I can give you my two-cents here, if you wish.

I have three Olympus Infinity Tungsten ground-boxes, long compared to the non-Tungsten version before buying.
The two models are in a very very different league; in my opinion/system the Tungsten version is a world on its own, WAY more lively and breathy than the other version.

Tungsten seems to provide generally much better results in terms of headroom (hope you guys are familiar with the concept of headroom, as it does not find much use among audiophiles). Simply said, Tungsten versions dramatically increase the level of UNDISTORTED dynamics, that is basically what headroom stands for.

Ideally they will perfectly fit the already well optimized, very high end systems. Other systems, more aggressive and forward sounding, may find the non-Tungsten preferable, as it does not “pop up the music out of the speakers” as realistically and dramatically as the Tungsten, whose thunder dynamics might end up being too much in such cases.

But again, I am referring to an imperfectly balanced, lower quality, higher distortion system, for which I believe the non-Tungsten model will still make sense and help a lot. In my system, I already had a very NON-harsh, rich sound, without fastidious peaks, but when I inserted the Tungsten units my system… EXPLODED. While retaining almost the same overall balance, the instruments simply jumped out of the speakers AND unexpectedly even lost some harshness I couldn’t hear! Yes, because even though the sound felt sweet, an undetected saturation was “smash-compressing” the peaks, giving that typical FALSE sense of dynamics that indeed is the exact opposite: in-your-face harsh peaks perceived as “dynamics”, while indeed they are just compressed! And that’s the reason why they are harsh. We take harshness for dynamics, headroom for compression, because high headroom sounds never harsh and aggressive so it feels like… “less dynamic!”. At the point that when we finally go to listen to the real orchestra, with that enormous dynamic range, we say “is that all? I have more dynamics at home..”. Even in my system I could realize how the overall soundstage had a “cap”, how a threshold of imperceptible saturation was limiting the headroom, canceling harmonics and creating dirt and confusion all at the same time.

The definitive test, the STEP BACK, was even more jaw-dropping than the step-forward: in a word, the sound was… DEAD! Yes, what before seemed already perfect now sounded dirty, bidimensional, flat, lifeless and unrealistic by comparison.

Just so that you can make best use of my words, I tell you what my system is comprised of:
- a 1930 engraved Western Electric 300b & 274/Telefunken EC8020 amplifier with no Graez bridge to have even higher headroom;
- two CV31 power supplies;
- Rullit Super Aero 12 field coil speakers;
- R2R DAC connected to a SACD transport via HDMI/I2S connection.

So an already sweet, non-harsh, natural, dynamic and rich sounding system that did not seem to need any ENTREQ’s.
But now, if I momentarily disconnect the three ground boxes, I fall asleep, the sound is just soporific by comparison, and what before sounded “natural and sweet” now it just sounds unnatural and reproduced!!!

Also, even though the tonal balance is retained, it must be noted that the preservation of harmonics achieved through the grounding creates a unique effect, something that not even a five digit engraved WE300b couple was able to give me: high frequencies become solid, and structured like in reality, all achieves more holographic detail but even more harmonic content, thereby an overall increase of THICKNESS is experienced.

But while this isn’t too hard to get in low frequencies, I never got such a huge impact on high’s. Now, an increase in overall thickness in my system (already VERY thick and rich) needs to be “handled with care”, talking about low frequencies. In fact I was only shopping for more air, breath, freshness at this time, NOT body and thickness at all, to balance my sound as best. In fact, as I’ve been trying both Eartha Olympus Infinity and Eartha Apollo Infinity earth cables to match ground boxes - both cables very effective and different - at this very early stage of break-in the Olympus seems a bit too much for my system. Yes, it has that extra harmonic richness and depth compared to Apollo that my system starts blurring the details, embedding them in a beautiful yet amber cloud of harmonics.

But don’t get me wrong, though, as I have a general rule: when ANY component does exactly what the Eartha Olympus cable does (bringing the sound stage deeper behind speakers, increasing harmonics content and decreasing harshness), it is simply a BETTER quality component. Full stop. End of story. But unfortunately hi-fi is not mathematics that repeats itself wherever, that you can get to the same result by simply adding same addendums: what works best in your system will NOT necessarily apply to mine. I learned that long time ago, when I built a guitar head amp clone of my 1964 Marshall JTM45 but with hi-end criteria, that should have destroyed the original with its poor components..
Well, that did not occur. The sound was so “well-mannered” and “natural” that had NO expression and life under my fingers...
So this applies to ENTREQ stuff as well. Many products, many ingredients, many needs, tastes, purposes.

Also, what I soon realized about ENTREQ’s products is that they change A LOT with break-in, so much that I changed conclusions several times and my current ones could be completely inverted again with time.
But I am quite sure (am I?) that the thinner, double linear solid core Apollo’s will remain a bit “leaner”, more fat-free than the richer Olympus.
Is that necessarily a bad thing? Not at all.

Now, probably the most amazing improvement I had with ENTREQ products was the CLEANUS extended by means of an Olympus Infinity Tungsten groundbox. That's to drain noise from the earth/ground of the home's electrical system connecting it in close proximity to the HiFi system. I literally fell off my sofa for the huge increase of headroom, undistorted dynamics together with a dramatic drop of harshness. Depth, speed and air between the instruments increased dramatically, but the specific “timbre COLOR” of every instruments was so realistic...so realistic that I don’t know if this can get any closer to reality. If that is the case, it means that, despite my system receives electricity through a big, screened cable by-passing ALL house utilities, it still receives and/or is unable to drain noise through the ground connection.

Another nice tweaking tool is the possibility to tide-up your results via the Everest or Peak4 screws. Again, none is better than the other.
The first is richer and sweeter, the second is brighter and faster, just to get us the gourmet minestrone as close as possible to our taste.

Buon appetito!

Fabio Apicella
 
What a great post...super detailed and informative! I thought I would add my own personal experiences/observations having now completed the setup and settling in of the Entreq system.

After several weeks of listening to the latest in Entreq grounding (after not exploring grounding in nearly 12 years)...conclusion: We are keeping the Tripoint and adding an Entreq dual Pluton & Olympus Infinity T system to it. Observations and and listening notes as follows:

Final Setup
- Tripoint Troy SE: Zanden 4-box Chassis Ground + Torus Grounding Post
- Entreq Dual Plutons + Olympus Infinity Tungsten (full complement of Olympus Wiring & Peak 4 Binding Posts
- 7 Totally Isolated individual Grounding Modules
- 1 x Pre Grounding Posts
- 1 x DAC Signal Ground
- 1 x Pre Signal Ground
- 1 x Sub Signal Ground
- 1 x Each Mono
- 1 Split to 'supercharge' each Mono
- Peak 4s across the board where there is a cable connected. On unconnected grounding posts, original wooden binding post worked best with only exception being the Subwoofer.

Listening Notes - Trial Set Up
We originally started with 1 x Entreq Pluton + 1 x Olympus Infinity T. It took 5.5 days for the first iteration to bake in...and it was both shocking and well worth the wait:
- Day 0-1: I do hear more mid/bass detail and power...some extension...it IS what I was looking for directionally...but was that all we'd get?
- Day 2-3.5: OK better...its not something you would readily pull out of the system...but it is expensive for what it is
- Day 4.-4.5: Just about making me 60-40 in favor of justifying the cost
- Day 5.5: Blew me away into 'I would not have the system without it any longer'

Listening Notes - Final Set Up
We then went to dual Plutons + Olympus Infinity T to give each connection its own separate grounding module...plus giving 1.5 grounding modules to each mono. This system took 9.5- days to get to wow...and around 12.5 days to settle down finally.

Results?

The best way I can describe something [that no other component has ever done before [including Tripoint which is about extreme clarity and purity of detail] for music is:

1.Super-hero reflexes, strength and agility. The Wilsons sound more like electrostatics than I have ever heard them before...BUT also maintaining the sheer depth/power of cones. I am able to cerebrally appreciate/listen/pay attention to and 'study' more Glenn Gould solo piano technique, or more interplay between Clapton and the rest of the band, or Yo Yo Ma's counterpoint to his fellow musicians at Mandolin and Bass...but at the same time, because I can do that effortlessly, without trying...it really is emotionally just super super gratifying.

2. Timing, timing, timing of the most minute touches go from being unheard not just to being heard but to becoming actual musical moments to relish...a pregnant pause in between 2 piano keys, the extra hold on a mandolin string.
- On deep house electronic, whereas you might count 7 lines of coordinated bass rhythms and 3-5 separate sound effects...now what happens is that 4 of the 5 of those separate sound effects suddenly become another rhythm that match the first group of 7 rhythms.
- Very, very subtle, but you realize that those tracks were layered with the most subtle of syncopated rhythms in time with the main rhythms of the music...something that was not apparent before...that zooming left to right swish, or that whispered word in the back...were actually all done in time with the main beats. VERY COOL.

3. Musical Nuance. There is SOMETHING about its ability to remove that fine dust which obscures the extra pressure of the fingertip, or the light touch at the end of the bow...but doing so all the time, with every note, across the entire musical score...you are suddenly filled with a level of musical insight.
- Put another way, it gives you that extra special sense of insights that the best electrostatics do in terms of fingering, nuance, technique...BUT (and its a big but)...BUT you get that fulness and depth of power and corporeal note saturation that comes from the best of cones (except with again super hero speed/reflexes)

4. LIFE in your notes. Unlike any single component, the Entreq has contributed most to allowing the system to uncover LIFELIKE FULLNESS in the musical notes.
- Again, you really do get at quite an upclose/personal granular level a sense of the artists' interplay on something like Bach Trios between Yo Yo Ma and his fellow musicians on mandolin and bass.
- But in addition to the interplay element, each instrument has a far greater corporeal BODY present in the room.
- The mandolin certainly has the weight of a real instrument in the room.
- The Cello certainly approaching in-the-room power (NOTE: it is not as much about the actual live power of the true cello instrument but more how the live cello strokes can 'attack the air' around you which often gets slightly 'blurred' or 'slurred' in systems where it becomes more obvious, it is system, not the real thing. Here with the electrostatic-like reflexes plus the power/depth of note of the cone...you get a startling amount of instantaneous power...which is what I feel when up close with a cello in real life.

This includes a great sense of propulsion and power as well as super-soft pianissimo notes which seems to have unlocked the system whereby now the Robert Kodas in place produce notably greater power than the Gryphon Mephisto but with far greater detail...whereas before it had the detail over the Mephisto but its power only edged out the Mephisto overall.

5. In visual/camera terms, the best analogy is Entreq is like the moment you see Pinocchio (thru a Pentax Zoom) suddenly turn into a real boy (but now thru a Nikon F/2.0)...the natural movement, intonation become vividly natural...but you ALSO get very very unique insight into details like the 'character of your space' (ie, so not just bigger space or deeper space, but you get a sense of the character/nature of that space (ie, so a large recording studio, a small damped rehearsal room, a small, brick/stone walled-underground jazz club space, etc)

6. The Tripoint Troy SE is spectacular at purity of detail, cleanliness and given its age at over 12 years is a testament to Miguel's design prowess. We are keeping it.

7. The Entreq Pluton is their latest design and it is quantums ahead of the 12-year old Silver Tellus (which also cost a lot less). The Pluton and Tungsten-based Entreqs are about flow, rhythm...(its work on deep house electronic is just artwork)...but delivers this thru electrostatic reflexes in your system, unleashing a lot more sheer power/dynamic range and then by removing grunge allowing a finely hidden world of detail to emerge forward.

I remain an enormous fan of Tripoint and am glad to say the Tripoint Troy SE is here to stay. In the same breath, Entreq has done masterful work which, in a word, has elevated music in our home to an artform which is well beyond our highest expectation when we set out to reexplore grounding. Well done, Entreq.
 
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Hi all,

I can give you my two-cents here, if you wish.

I have three Olympus Infinity Tungsten ground-boxes, long compared to the non-Tungsten version before buying.
The two models are in a very very different league; in my opinion/system the Tungsten version is a world on its own, WAY more lively and breathy than the other version.

Tungsten seems to provide generally much better results in terms of headroom (hope you guys are familiar with the concept of headroom, as it does not find much use among audiophiles). Simply said, Tungsten versions dramatically increase the level of UNDISTORTED dynamics, that is basically what headroom stands for.

Ideally they will perfectly fit the already well optimized, very high end systems. Other systems, more aggressive and forward sounding, may find the non-Tungsten preferable, as it does not “pop up the music out of the speakers” as realistically and dramatically as the Tungsten, whose thunder dynamics might end up being too much in such cases.

But again, I am referring to an imperfectly balanced, lower quality, higher distortion system, for which I believe the non-Tungsten model will still make sense and help a lot. In my system, I already had a very NON-harsh, rich sound, without fastidious peaks, but when I inserted the Tungsten units my system… EXPLODED. While retaining almost the same overall balance, the instruments simply jumped out of the speakers AND unexpectedly even lost some harshness I couldn’t hear! Yes, because even though the sound felt sweet, an undetected saturation was “smash-compressing” the peaks, giving that typical FALSE sense of dynamics that indeed is the exact opposite: in-your-face harsh peaks perceived as “dynamics”, while indeed they are just compressed! And that’s the reason why they are harsh. We take harshness for dynamics, headroom for compression, because high headroom sounds never harsh and aggressive so it feels like… “less dynamic!”. At the point that when we finally go to listen to the real orchestra, with that enormous dynamic range, we say “is that all? I have more dynamics at home..”. Even in my system I could realize how the overall soundstage had a “cap”, how a threshold of imperceptible saturation was limiting the headroom, canceling harmonics and creating dirt and confusion all at the same time.

The definitive test, the STEP BACK, was even more jaw-dropping than the step-forward: in a word, the sound was… DEAD! Yes, what before seemed already perfect now sounded dirty, bidimensional, flat, lifeless and unrealistic by comparison.

Just so that you can make best use of my words, I tell you what my system is comprised of:
- a 1930 engraved Western Electric 300b & 274/Telefunken EC8020 amplifier with no Graez bridge to have even higher headroom;
- two CV31 power supplies;
- Rullit Super Aero 12 field coil speakers;
- R2R DAC connected to a SACD transport via HDMI/I2S connection.

So an already sweet, non-harsh, natural, dynamic and rich sounding system that did not seem to need any ENTREQ’s.
But now, if I momentarily disconnect the three ground boxes, I fall asleep, the sound is just soporific by comparison, and what before sounded “natural and sweet” now it just sounds unnatural and reproduced!!!

Also, even though the tonal balance is retained, it must be noted that the preservation of harmonics achieved through the grounding creates a unique effect, something that not even a five digit engraved WE300b couple was able to give me: high frequencies become solid, and structured like in reality, all achieves more holographic detail but even more harmonic content, thereby an overall increase of THICKNESS is experienced.

But while this isn’t too hard to get in low frequencies, I never got such a huge impact on high’s. Now, an increase in overall thickness in my system (already VERY thick and rich) needs to be “handled with care”, talking about low frequencies. In fact I was only shopping for more air, breath, freshness at this time, NOT body and thickness at all, to balance my sound as best. In fact, as I’ve been trying both Eartha Olympus Infinity and Eartha Apollo Infinity earth cables to match ground boxes - both cables very effective and different - at this very early stage of break-in the Olympus seems a bit too much for my system. Yes, it has that extra harmonic richness and depth compared to Apollo that my system starts blurring the details, embedding them in a beautiful yet amber cloud of harmonics.

But don’t get me wrong, though, as I have a general rule: when ANY component does exactly what the Eartha Olympus cable does (bringing the sound stage deeper behind speakers, increasing harmonics content and decreasing harshness), it is simply a BETTER quality component. Full stop. End of story. But unfortunately hi-fi is not mathematics that repeats itself wherever, that you can get to the same result by simply adding same addendums: what works best in your system will NOT necessarily apply to mine. I learned that long time ago, when I built a guitar head amp clone of my 1964 Marshall JTM45 but with hi-end criteria, that should have destroyed the original with its poor components..
Well, that did not occur. The sound was so “well-mannered” and “natural” that had NO expression and life under my fingers...
So this applies to ENTREQ stuff as well. Many products, many ingredients, many needs, tastes, purposes.

Also, what I soon realized about ENTREQ’s products is that they change A LOT with break-in, so much that I changed conclusions several times and my current ones could be completely inverted again with time.
But I am quite sure (am I?) that the thinner, double linear solid core Apollo’s will remain a bit “leaner”, more fat-free than the richer Olympus.
Is that necessarily a bad thing? Not at all.

Now, probably the most amazing improvement I had with ENTREQ products was the CLEANUS extended by means of an Olympus Infinity Tungsten groundbox. That's to drain noise from the earth/ground of the home's electrical system connecting it in close proximity to the HiFi system. I literally fell off my sofa for the huge increase of headroom, undistorted dynamics together with a dramatic drop of harshness. Depth, speed and air between the instruments increased dramatically, but the specific “timbre COLOR” of every instruments was so realistic...so realistic that I don’t know if this can get any closer to reality. If that is the case, it means that, despite my system receives electricity through a big, screened cable by-passing ALL house utilities, it still receives and/or is unable to drain noise through the ground connection.

Another nice tweaking tool is the possibility to tide-up your results via the Everest or Peak4 screws. Again, none is better than the other.
The first is richer and sweeter, the second is brighter and faster, just to get us the gourmet minestrone as close as possible to our taste.

Buon appetito!

Fabio Apicella
Totally agree with what you said about the new T boxes.

Just wondering why you get three individual Olympus Infinity T instead of the Pluton? The Olympus Infinity T weight in at only 9kg each while the Pluton weight in at 35kg or 42kg. Entreq's web site indicated these two numbers at two different places but I think 42kg is the correct weight. So you get an extra 15kg of something and it is quite a bit cheaper too.

In my experience with other Entreq boxes in the past, the individual compartment of a multi-units ground box did sound better than a single unit ground box, probably of a more solid box and more shielding.

The most importance of all is that you only need one set of footers under the Pluton compare to three sets of footers under three individual Olympus Infinity T if you choose to use footers under the Entreq box. I only need one set of footers under my Hero instead of five sets of footers under five individual Olympus Infinity T and one set of footers under the Cleanus. That is a huge saving of FIVE sets of footers plus the extra racks for all the extra boxes!!!

BTW, have you tried the new Triton ground cable? It is quite a step up over the Infinity Apollo and cause the Infinity Atlantis to be retired.
 
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Hi dts-99,

Thanks also for putting in a lot of your own experience here...very good reading! On my end, I use the Eartha Olympus ground cables...they are really, really good. I did not do a comparison with all the iterations...only the very early designs.
 
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Totally agree with what you said about the new T boxes.

Just wondering why you get three individual Olympus Infinity T instead of the Pluton? The Olympus Infinity T weight in at only 9kg each while the Pluton weight in at 35kg or 42kg. Entreq's web site indicated these two numbers at two different places but I think 42kg is the correct weight. So you get an extra 15kg of something and it is quite a bit cheaper too.

In my experience with other Entreq boxes in the past, the individual compartment of a multi-units ground box did sound better than a single unit ground box, probably of a more solid box and more shielding.

The most importance of all is that you only need one set of footers under the Pluton compare to three sets of footers under three individual Olympus Infinity T if you choose to use footers under the Entreq box. I only need one set of footers under my Hero instead of five sets of footers under five individual Olympus Infinity T and one set of footers under the Cleanus.

BTW, have you tried the new Triton ground cable? It is quite a step up over the Infinity Apollo and cause the Infinity Atlantis to be retired.

Because integration in High Fidelity always comes at a cost, in my experience. You save money at the expense of something else...

For the best performance I found that : groundboxes are sensitive to external EMI fields (avoid to put them very close to transformers or directly above electronics), sensitive to vibrations (they love good vibration dampening) and sensitive to other groundboxes' proximity (I usually put each one at least 15/20cm from another).

Everyone has his own learning path ;)

I haven't tried the braided Eartha TRITON yet, I wish my dealer will send a pair to test soon!
 
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