Battery Power

What I would do: Find the components for the best battery/inverter and battery management system you can. Wire and connect to the highest standards you can. Test the set up in a variety of systems. When it outperforms the Stromtank, assemble it all it all in a nice looking and solid box that will appeal to audiophiles. Price it at 50% of the equivalent Stromtank.
Your electrician friend can easily wire it together. It would take maybe 2 hours to buy the parts and assemble it. You don't need to fester over stripping off tin. You already have the RM20.
 
For me the best battery today this one.
With sine wave inverters from ambulances, they only have a 0.05% deviation in the grid frequency. It's a 12-volt system with three battery packs (over 900Ah) and two 3-kVA sine wave inverters. You'll hear for over 8 hours if the continuous current draw remains below 15 amps at 230 volts. Don't forget to install fuses between the battery and the sine wave inverter. Forklift fuses go up to 600A. Price with housing and charging device: approximately €6,000.
Exsample fuse
42422930.jpg
P.S
In case of a fault (short circuit) a special fire blanket that protects your house until the fire brigade arrives.
 
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For me the best battery today this one.
With sine wave inverters from ambulances, they only have a 0.05% deviation in the grid frequency. It's a 12-volt system with three battery packs (over 900Ah) and two 3-kVA sine wave inverters. You'll hear for over 8 hours if the continuous current draw remains below 15 amps at 230 volts. Don't forget to install fuses between the battery and the sine wave inverter. Forklift fuses go up to 600A. Price with housing and charging device: approximately €6,000.
Exsample fuse
View attachment 152962
P.S
In case of a fault (short circuit) a special fire blanket that protects your house until the fire brigade arrives.
Do you have a link for the sine wave inverters you're speaking of? Thanks
 
Exeltech would be very similar to Votronic
 
I sort of forgot how complex it can be to properly ground a battery/inverter. I was reading about it this morning. The battery, inverter output and metal chassis equipment all need a good earth ground. And once you earth ground, a SPD should be utilized to protect from lightning striking earth near your ground.
 
EcoFlow is not as easy as they make it look to install. You still need to meet all the NEC requirements on emergency shutdown, phenalic labels at the utility meter etc. Its like adding a generator.
 
I've been comparing the P20 to my Torus rm20. I prefer the sound of the Torus. More density and instruments sound more real.

I now am running the P20 in front of the Torus. This may be best, but I'll have to go back to hear Torus alone to be sure.

I occurs to me a regenerator and battery are similar in what they offer and their tradeoffs. The battery inverter will inject it's particular noise and the regenerator it's (high frequency?) noise. The regenerator is certainly more straight forward an install.

The P20 is showing only 475 watts of power usage, so I imagine the smaller P12 would be good for this purpose.
 

I stumbled onto this exceptional small business in a review & so glad I did. After some insightful back & forth emails, I decided to have Dan build a custom 2500 watt,10 outlet, highly upgraded balanced mains unit. It is called BMU 2510se & it’s not even on the Factor One website yet. His passion for his work is contagious, as he kept me apprised of the build by sending me photos from his bench. Very nice touch Dan! The very first 2510se serial #0001 arrived in the States well-packed in tip top condition 2 weeks ago. As it settles in, I’m struck by the quiet confidence that it can handle anything you throw at it without breaking a sweat! Center image, which drifted a bit with the addition of the fabulous Heartsound Holostages, is once again well anchored. Soundstage is significantly deeper with layering & location of performers more defined. Highly revealing. Bass is huge! Had to back off the REL. Low listening level detail is remarkable. After only a couple of weeks, it’s clear to me that the Balanced Power Factor One BMU 2510se is a thoughtful, capable, beautifully crafted & essential addition to my kit. Check ‘em out! More later…
 
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Is the unite made for various input voltages ?
in the USA it varies a bit
115 to 130
And 208 to 250
if I were to use a bal iso it would be phase to phase input . And iso secondary to what voltage I need.
most noise including DC offset occurs Phase to neutral .
I've done this in the past it truly removed and ac noise and did have a positive effect on sound .
but this was in NYC and had some tubes being used . Down south I have no need for this , very rural and only 1 phase is used to feed transformers per home .
 

I stumbled onto this exceptional small business in a review & so glad I did. After some insightful back & forth emails, I decided to have Dan build a custom 2500 watt,10 outlet, highly upgraded balanced mains unit. It is called BMU 2510se & it’s not even on the Factor One website yet. His passion for his work is contagious, as he kept me apprised of the build by sending me photos from his bench. Very nice touch Dan! The very first 2510se serial #0001 arrived in the States well-packed in tip top condition 2 weeks ago. As it settles in, I’m struck by the quiet confidence that it can handle anything you throw at it without breaking a sweat! Center image, which drifted a bit with the addition of the fabulous Heartsound Holostages, is once again well anchored. Soundstage is significantly deeper with layering & location of performers more defined. Highly revealing. Bass is huge! Had to back off the REL. Low listening level detail is remarkable. After only a couple of weeks, it’s clear to me that the Balanced Power Factor One BMU 2510se is a thoughtful, capable, beautifully crafted & essential addition to my kit. Check ‘em out! More later…
I'm a strong advocate of any good isolation transformer. I prefer the way they perform on amps over any other type filter.
 
I communicated with Factor One. They seem like a solid company. I didn't ask how they have designed their DC filter. They noted the SE version has upgraded capacitors, resistors and diodes. Capacitors are a solid DC block. They will keep the core of the toroid from humming itself.
It sounds like a solid device. I would not fault anyone for trying one. Especially when its around $3000 US.
 
...gents, as it's balanced power, is it 220v input to the device, for US applications? The DC blocking aspect is of interest. Thank you...
 
...gents, as it's balanced power, is it 220v input to the device, for US applications? The DC blocking aspect is of interest. Thank you...
Do you know the specific device from Factor One. I believe it is filter caps on the primary to rid the DC, then through a Toroid transformer of some size. I though it was a 120 volt in to a 60/60 out like Equitech.

Torus can be a 240 volt in with 120 output. That is another way to have balanced power. Torus also uses their proprietary NBT technology that does not rely on capacitors.

I am talking to Factor One to understand if their device would do a better job filtering behind a battery/Inverter I am working on. Not sure at this time.
 
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(...) I am talking to Factor One to understand if their device would do a better job filtering behind a battery/Inverter I am working on. Not sure at this time.

If we ask the manufacturer surely their device is better!

But probably some one with your expertise could build something equivalent using a toroidal transformer from Plitron .much cheaper ...

Did you take detailed measurements of your mains?
 
Not yet. One of our members has been trying and Exeltech inverter with an Abyss 48 volt battery. He plugs a Torus RM20 into the inverter. Its been a process. But the initial results are positive. Enough so I will get a 24 volt version as well as a Victron inverter to test. If they work, my intent is to have the component enclosed in cases and tethered together with jumpers that are plug in. I need to make it drop in ready for audiophiles.

So, I am looking at options for filters. I had anothet person say a isolation transformer is the way to go. So really it becomes a 3 box solution. Or more. With 6 boxes I can put about 70 Amps of power in the room. Very clean and quiet. With a rack I can put 120 Amps in easily.
 
I would have to test a Factor One. Once you added caps, you basically built a device like Puritan or Audio Quest makes. They work well. But I prefer a isolation transformer only. So far, from what I have heard. I sm open minded. I also need it to meet a price. If I were to be putting an Everest behind it, the Shunyata piece would cost more than the battery/Inverter. And Shunyata told me to pound sand. They only work with major dealers. I'm a hobbiest designer.
 

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