You attach mounting plates to whatever you want if stacking the bottom. The disks fit inside the top edge of footer they don’t fasten to the disks
On my system I’m liking the USB over XDMI/ProISL with my Cascade . Horizon 360 XDMI was a clear winner...I also thought USB was pretty good initially @ctydwn ...and maybe good enough if it was all we had. But after a while, the XDMI analog sounded better here too. I tested a lot back and forth with MSB solutions (XDMI and ProISL).
I am , yes they make a noticeable improvementFor me XDMI/Cascade vs. USB is not even close...hopefully u are using AOC cables on Cascade link and PRO ISL. They also add a nice improvement.

I didn't attach them. I just set the Olympus directly on it. When I tried to push Olympus to see if it can slide, the whole thing including the feet slides.I have a question for anyone who's installed the Hifistay Absolute Point feet. Do the mounting plates get attached to the Olympus or I/O and the feet fit into them without being physically attached? View attachment 162566
Thank youYou attach mounting plates to whatever you want if stacking the bottom. The disks fit inside the top edge of footer they don’t fasten to the disks
Thank you. That's why I did as well. I found it took a lot of adjusting to get the foot to lock with the mounting plate. Especially hard given the weight and limited room in the back of the rack. But eventually all four feet seemed locked in.I didn't attach them. I just set the Olympus directly on it. When I tried to push Olympus to see if it can slide, the whole thing including the feet slides.
I used Winbag Air Wedge to lift the Olympus and slid in the footer and lowered it gently. I went overboard and placed a piece of wool material between Olympus and the Absolute point to prevent any scratches. That is just meThank you
Thank you. That's why I did as well. I found it took a lot of adjusting to get the foot to lock with the mounting plate. Especially hard given the weight and limited room in the back of the rack. But eventually all four feet seemed locked in.
That's great advice. Thank you.I used Winbag Air Wedge to lift the Olympus and slid in the footer and lowered it gently. I went overboard and placed a piece of wool material between Olympus and the Absolute point to prevent any scratches. That is just me![]()
I used Winbag Air Wedge to lift the Olympus and slid in the footer and lowered it gently. I went overboard and placed a piece of wool material between Olympus and the Absolute point to prevent any scratches. That is just me![]()
Given the ultra transparency of Olympus, any additional (lossy) layer between footers will alter the sound signature. Keeping the stock feet in between or removing it can also alter the tonality quite a bit.I used Winbag Air Wedge to lift the Olympus and slid in the footer and lowered it gently. I went overboard and placed a piece of wool material between Olympus and the Absolute point to prevent any scratches. That is just me![]()
I did some research and learned that Wool is a good material for damping the sound and it would dissipates those energy in the form of heat? What I use is very thin material to make sure it doesn't ruin the finish of either the Olympus and the Footer. Since I figured out a method to lift Olympus using the Air Wedge and Rubber/Cork anti-vibration pad, I will remove the wool and see if that helps with sound quality. Thank you!Given the ultra transparency of Olympus, any additional (lossy) layer between footers will alter the sound signature. Keeping the stock feet in between or removing it can also alter the tonality quite a bit.
My wife put mine on with no issue !There are a couple of ways to install the HiFi Stay Absolute Points. Ideally you have an extra set of hands. If you have the room as I do I could have set a blanket down and set the Olympus on its side detach the Olympus footers and screw in with the provided screws, the plates onto the Olympus. Then set it down and line everything up. I know its a bit of a pain to set them and then if you move them they get off kilter. This air bag thing in which I don't have. I would lift it to the Max, shim with a wooden block, set some thin shims down, put this airbag thing on the thin shims, more shims on the block, and repeat until you get the height you need, then do the other side. I told Vassil @nenon this would all be much easier if the plate that attaches to the IO or Olympus had a hub protruding down so it would go in the hole on the pedestal. This way its not so vulnerable to moving.
I have designed 2 platforms. 1 for the Olympus and IO. The bigger ones weight capacity is for 250 lbs and the other is for the router/switch or Aphrodite/360, or what ever your need is. As long as it is within the weight capacity. The plan is to get the 2 constructed and send them around for those interested to try. Imagine a platform with several "shock absorbers" that mimics a very similar movement as the HIFISTAYS. The entire top of the platform floats. The plans are done, I have been experimenting with different materials and designs for over a year. I finally got what I know will work exceedingly well. Now I just need to get it them done...
Hey! Leave my sister out of this!!My wife put mine on with no issue !
I got over 300 hours now on O + I/O and the Lampizator XDMI and wanted to make a fun comparison with USB. XDMI is so much more enjoyable, but I found one very interesting point that I can't really understand.
There is a quite big volume difference between USB and XDMI going into Lampizator Horizon360. I'm not sure if this is due to Olympus or Lampizator or both.
In any case here is my dilemma:
On modern music with fairly low dynamic range (let say 4) I can match up the max volume peaks in around 6db (3 clicks on my preamp). XDMI is 6db lower than USB.
On classical musing with big dynamic range (let say 18) the difference is much bigger around 12db (6 clicks on my preamp).
Did any of you notice this as well and does it happen also on the XDMI analog card?
@Taiko Audio , could you please explain what is happening here?
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