Davey-My tweeters didn't become more bright or less bright by changing out my amps. The biggest change between the two amps is the bottom end is stronger with more definition and depending on your point of view; vocals now sound "less thick" for lack of a better term. Tube lovers might say something is missing in the vocals and SS lovers would say a layer of something has been removed and now they are Goldilocks-like. I really don’t hear much difference between sax, horns, cymbals, snare drum, bells, violins, etc.
I can pretty much play the devil's advocate on any issue as long as I understand both sides of the coin. That would certainly hold true for making a case for why tube amps are a bad idea in 2011 (and we could certainly go back in time). Tube amps are never going to control woofers like a SS amp. They simply don’t have the dampening factors that SS amps have. This also means that SS amps will have a cleaner bass response than tube amps. The output impedance of tube amps can impact the frequency response of your speakers depending on the impedance curve of your speakers. SS amps also have less distortion than tube amps.
You can never perfectly match a pair of output tubes (let alone 4, 6, or 8 per channel), and even if you could (and you can’t), they would never stay exactly matched as they age anyway. Single-ended amps that use only one output tube don’t have this issue, but then you have far less output power at any sane B+ plate voltage. And with SE amps you have all sorts of other issues to deal with.
And let’s not even mention the care and feeding of tube amps (but I will). Output tubes are fairly expensive. The three GL KT-88 tubes I just bought from Upscale Audio cost me $190 with shipping. To re-tube all 12 of the tubes is around $800.00. Checking the bias regularly is very important with 6 tubes per channel and one bias pot per bank of 3 tubes. After about 2000 hours with a set of output tubes, you better start saying some prayers because it’s like driving around on a set of “may-pop” tires.
Some tube amps are a breeze to bias. I can bias a pair of Quicksilver V4 amps in under two minutes for both amps. To flip the Jadis on its side and remove the bottom plate screws and set the bottom plate off to the side takes me 5 minutes. I could go on and on, but from start to finish on the Jadis, it takes at least 30 minutes to bias the Jadis. Try biasing an ARC VT-100 MKII amp. That will be a couple hour job from start to finish and you better own a pair of meters. And don’t try and buy a replacement set of tubes for an ARC VT-100-anything from Upscale Audio because Kevin refuses to sell tubes for this amp because of how wacky the bias scheme is.
Of course, there are some tube amps that have auto-bias and you don’t have to worry about your output tubes until they blow up. Some tube amps are designed to take out a cathode resistor when the output tube blows up (think ARC), so unless you are handy with a soldering iron, this means your amp is going back to the dealer or manufacturer. Other amps take out a fuse when an output tube blows and you just have to replace a fuse and the output tube. But chances are you will have to buy more than one tube because you won’t have a tube that will match the one that blew.
I think I just talked myself into selling my Jadis.