REVIEW: The best yet most affordable network switch (TPLink WR902AC)

[Beltane_sun]

Hello everyone,

I've been using the TP-Link for over two years to isolate my music LAN from the main home network.

Regarding the battery, I recommend the LHY Batt V 1.2 with 5 volts:

https://www.beatechnik.com/product-page/lhy-batt-v1-2

I connected it to the TP-Link via USB-C using the following silver cable:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ejx7YBa

Best regards,

Frank

 

[Magnuska]

Hello everyone,

I've been using the TP-Link for over two years to isolate my music LAN from the main home network.

Regarding the battery, I recommend the LHY Batt V 1.2 with 5 volts:

https://www.beatechnik.com/product-page/lhy-batt-v1-2

I connected it to the TP-Link via USB-C using the following silver cable:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ejx7YBa

Best regards,

Frank

I have looked at that psu as well. Is this fully automated? Turn of charging or do I need to toggle the switch on the front?
Regards Magnus

 

[Paul1960]

I got my TP-Link AC750 / TL-WR902AC yesterday and set it up following @keithc's excellent instructions. I left it hooked up to the Grimm MU2 overnight streaming files from my NAS for the next 20 hours and then listened to it tonight hooked up to a cheap off brand battery pack I had lying around for a few years. I compared back and forth with my Ediscreation Network Silent Switch SS1 SS Extreme. The cheap TP-Link noticeably outperformed the Ediscreation. The difference was similar to the improvement you hear listening to a fully warmed up system in the late evening vs how the exact same system sounds warmish in the afternoon or early evening. It is a remarkable improvement from a $40 piece of gear with a cheap battery pack. I ordered a long micro-USB cord so I can also try it with my Jackery Explorer Power Station. And even though I should probably have simply ordered the Anker Keith recommended I decided to take advantage of some special pricing on Aliexpress and buy the LHY battery @Beltane_sun mentioned. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808584979089.html

I am happy enough with the TP-Link that I have ordered one to use with my second system replacing the EtherRegen I use there.

@keithc thanks so much for starting this thread and bringing such a great and affordable upgrade to our attention.

 

[tony22]

I decided to take advantage of some special pricing on Aliexpress and buy the LHY battery

Does anyone know how long this battery supply might power the TP-Link, and if the battery is replaceable (once it fails)?

 

[wil]

I should also note that in previous high density battery power experiments, there was a HUGE impact in SQ based on output impedance of the batteries (basically how much instantaneous current they could deliver) and the nature of the battery management system. I got best (almost otherworldly) SQ from special hand selected batteries in massive parallel arrays and huge copper cross bars and no BMS.

DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME

That is basically lightning in a battery pack with no protection (literally an electrical bomb). The was the free solo version of mountain climbing to see what is possible, but extremely dangerous. What was possible was awe inspiring, but WAY too dangerous to have around the house or work with. It did reveal that the quality of battery and BMS in the battery pack will have a profound impact on the nature of the power being delivered.

Rules of thumb for batteries - more instantaneous current delivery == better (output impedance). Less regulation/switching of voltage by a BMS the better (creates noise through the DC regulation). Battery chemistry is very audible (different battery chemistries seem to have a different noise profile, presumably at a chemical conversion level...I had a preference for LiFEPO4 batteries but there was a surprising difference with other battery types)

TL;DR - expect huge variability in power quality from different battery packs

Is this application direct DC to …. ?No inverter to AC?

I am using a large LiFEPO with Exeltech inverter to power everything in the audio system , including router/switch.

 

[OrigTweaker]

I had come across Eric’s German forum a while ago, and built some of the projects described there including the TP-Link WR902 and ferrite choke cables. Thinking they made only a modest improvement in my system at the time, I installed them for a friend who is dependent on Wi-Fi to reach his Volumio endpoint.

When discussion here brought this up again, I set up a new unit -powered this time by my wife’s spare 16750mAh 3A Anker power bank instead of an iFi 5v iPower- to find that it makes a substantial, positive difference. -But not comparable to David Snyder’s 3-Tier Diretta/Raspberry Pi project which gives me a bigger, more well-defined 3D soundstage against an empty blackground.

So I’ve got the TP-Link (and an extra choke cable instead of the Shunyata Venom that I use between RPi’s) feeding a WiiM Pro for a secondary system. YMMV

 

[Beltane_sun]

Hello everyone,

the LHY battery has overcharge protection. However, the charging process must still be controlled via the switch.

The TP-LINK can operate for more than 8 hours with a fully charged LHY battery.

Best regards,

Frank

 

[ray-dude]

Is this application direct DC to …. ?No inverter to AC?

I am using a large LiFEPO with Exeltech inverter to power everything in the audio system , including router/switch.

Direct DC for me (I do not have any AC generation in my system, not something I’ve played with)

 

[ray-dude]

@raydude - I’m thinking the question here now is whether the LPS feeding the dcd which feeds the taiko router and switch introduces too much noise of its own which hampers the gain established by getting the signal chain off any hardwired connection. Meaning, feeding the TPlink directly to the server. It would mean no access to any attached NaS, of course, which would be a one up for server based storage. I do realise you’ve already said there is an uplift to SQ even with the taiko router and switch still in place as compared to a direct feed, but you also added it was early days and you hadn’t done in depth listening. Phew, lots to consider when I do my own listening.

In friendship - kevin

Having experienced the profound impact of the battery system in the Olympus, my current nirvana would be a Taiko BPS powered Taiko network stack. I have yet to experience a SQ ceiling when improving power to the Taiko network stack, even with TP link in the chain.

 

[keithc]

Thank you to all the varying ideas of different options and implementations to power the WR902AC. When trying to figure out what's the best way to approach this (and how to make it better than my prior Extreme/Tempus setup), my goals in a power supply were:

1) Maximal sound quality (this is top priority),
2) Maximize duration of this maximal sound quality (I do not want interrupted sound quality as my listening sessions can vary from 2 to 18 hours... the holy grail is an always-on non-compromised solution if one exists),
3) If there is a charge cycle is necessary, minimize its duration or allow this to occur during non-listening hours, OR have a charge cycle that sounds ideally as good as the non-charging cycle,
4) Convenience of charging (as minimal effort as possible).

The 20000mAh Anker 325 (PowerCore 20K) mentioned in the original post has been reliably powering my WR902AC for 26-36+ hours non-stop; I really appreciate this as I can forget to charge it and know that I still have complete isolation (not attached to the wall) the next day; I never have its charging cable attached when I'm listening. The downside is that it charges slow and needs many hours/overnight. However, for those with Amazon, to me it's a $50 no-brainer that you can return if you don't like it. If there is a higher capacity battery that provides equal or better sound that would be very attractive.

So while intrigued by the LHY, seeing its battery lasts 8 hours seems like a substantial compromise compared to the Anker. I would also want a system that in non-charging mode can run physically detached from the wall as I suspect some noise could still leak through, but would love to hear a comparison for those who have it as to how the sound quality compares during battery mode vs charging mode. Also looking forward to more comparative posts among different PSUs, battery vs PSU, etc.

Yesterday I rebuilt my UCPurePro 3000F setup and it's been burning in. Initial impressions is that it might be the permanent solution I have been looking for.... will share more once it has enough time to A/B against the Anker.

Keith

 

[adamaley]

I got my TP-Link AC750 / TL-WR902AC yesterday and set it up following @keithc's excellent instructions. I left it hooked up to the Grimm MU2 overnight streaming files from my NAS for the next 20 hours and then listened to it tonight hooked up to a cheap off brand battery pack I had lying around for a few years. I compared back and forth with my Ediscreation Network Silent Switch SS1 SS Extreme. The cheap TP-Link noticeably outperformed the Ediscreation. The difference was similar to the improvement you hear listening to a fully warmed up system in the late evening vs how the exact same system sounds warmish in the afternoon or early evening. It is a remarkable improvement from a $40 piece of gear with a cheap battery pack. I ordered a long micro-USB cord so I can also try it with my Jackery Explorer Power Station. And even though I should probably have simply ordered the Anker Keith recommended I decided to take advantage of some special pricing on Aliexpress and buy the LHY battery @Beltane_sun mentioned. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808584979089.html

I am happy enough with the TP-Link that I have ordered one to use with my second system replacing the EtherRegen I use there.

@keithc thanks so much for starting this thread and bringing such a great and affordable upgrade to our attention.

I used a Bluetti AC200P to power mine via DC for a while and the power bank sounds significantly better. Just cave in and try it and you'll be rewarded even more.

 

[seeteeyou]

When discussion here brought this up again, I set up a new unit -powered this time by my wife’s spare 16750mAh 3A Anker power bank instead of an iFi 5v iPower- to find that it makes a substantial, positive difference. -But not comparable to David Snyder’s 3-Tier Diretta/Raspberry Pi project which gives me a bigger, more well-defined 3D soundstage against an empty blackground.

Now that's quite interesting, what would be considered the best place (or even places?) to insert TL-WR902AC?

Router Tier #1 Tier #2 Tier #3

While I'm aware of the fact that link between Tier #2 and Tier #3 (i.e. Host and Target) should be connected with an Ethernet cable directly, could adding an extra layer of isolation via TL-WR902AC actually help or hinder this particular design?

More importantly, would stacking multiple units of TL-WR902AC do more harm than good or the other way around?

 

[Paul1960]

I used a Bluetti AC200P to power mine via DC for a while and the power bank sounds significantly better. Just cave in and try it and you'll be rewarded even more.

Just to be clear you are talking about this power bank being better? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D5CQ9CHQ

One of the reasons I ordered the LHY is because I assumed it would last longer but if it is only 8 hours that @Beltane_sun said that would be disappointing.