Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread

[Zero000]

I have been revisiting the TJ globe mesh 300b-they have broken in some and using the stock Svetlana Recti right now.

These have taken a long time to break in. I would say more detailed, holographic, bigger soundstage than the we101fa‘s I have been using. I am still evaluating - I need them to be non fatiguing long term -we101fa’s check that box for me.

When I first got the TJs I thought they were fatiguing but I think that was a combination of the B7 still breaking in and the TJs needing break in -and that seems to be no longer an issue.

I can’t say how they would compare to the other 300bs mentioned above, but I think they are better than the stock Shuguang 300b-98 and they don’t cost an arm and a leg.

I had a pair of TJ mesh plate 2A3 I used to quite like. I reckoned the mid range was ace.

Then one broke

I also have a TJ 274B mesh plate balloon recti which when lit is super pretty.

 

[K3RMIT]

Got the Vu71 already and it sounds awesome and give another favor to my GG2, its more 'analog' like but didn't scarify the details and sounds like the 'Vinyl' feeling to me, if i prefer to listen a more modern/analytical sounds i will use RK5U4G or the best rectifier GZ480, but if i play those Vintage Jazz record this VU71 is a very good match for those tunes, i think it's much better than the Mullard GZ34 which emphasis too much in mid range or the pricy Cossor 53KU with less dynamic and details

This tube is on my top 3 list now and happy listening
Thanks so much User211

If more rollers read Your posts lol.

 

[Willgolf]

With all of the tube rolling going on, I wonder how many of you have tried upgrading your fuse in the Pacific. I had the SR orange in and now I put in a QSA yellow. The detail, clarity of sound and 3D imaging improved dramatically. If you are collecting tubes to try, you should definitely consider the QSA fuses.

 

[Bobofei86]

With all of the tube rolling going on, I wonder how many of you have tried upgrading your fuse in the Pacific. I had the SR orange in and now I put in a QSA yellow. The detail, clarity of sound and 3D imaging improved dramatically. If you are collecting tubes to try, you should definitely consider the QSA fuses.

Im using QSA red and it's sth like few thousands upgarde in power cable, im using both SR orange, power lab ultimate zero .etc but QSA is better in DAC, they all have different characters and need to spend time for mix and match

 

[christoph]

With all of the tube rolling going on, I wonder how many of you have tried upgrading your fuse in the Pacific. I had the SR orange in and now I put in a QSA yellow. The detail, clarity of sound and 3D imaging improved dramatically. If you are collecting tubes to try, you should definitely consider the QSA fuses.

How much are the SR Orange and the QSA Yellow?
So you prefer the Yellow over the Orange?
Was the Orange already a big improvement over the stock fuse?

 

[highstream]

A search will tell you. At least in the States, the Orange is $159, but typically twice a year they do a 3 for 2 deal through their resellers. They just did one in July, so I expect it again in December. The QSA yellow is listed on the U.S. distributor’s site, tweekgeek.com, as $213. At least the upper end SR fuses are not built to industry (Underwriters Lab) specs, so it’s common to order the next size up, or 25% higher, to guard against blowing.

A stock fuse doesn’t compare with the Orange, not close, or most any in SR’s line (tonally, SR fuses are not all the same; e.g., the Orange is warmer than the Blue). Reviews of QSA fuses say that’s even more the case with them.

 

[bonzo75]

Please Forget about ACME, I purchased both ACME 300b and also 274b after I got my GG2, spent more than 200 hours on the 300b and it’s totally lack of dynamic and sounds too laidback, it’s very boring and I sold them immediate, surprisingly a low cost option shuguang 300b98 sounds very good and much better than ACME, I’m keeping it as the 2nd option if I want to change from 242

I have heard and compared Acme 211 in an amp with KR, the recti in a Lampi, and the 300b in an amp with elrog and KR. They are just ok. They got overhyped by some posters who just like to hype the next purchase.

 

[Bobofei86]

I got the SuperTNT 274b already and going to spend the next 100 hours with it, so far the sound is very promising, very well balanced and rich,

I will update the feedback after the burn in process, the price is very reasonable which only cost ~110usd, so far it’s better than most of other rectifier tube I have and became the one of the top3

 

[abeidrov]

What's the consensus for the best 300B's for the Pacific? Looking at getting a pair as an alternative to KR242's. Options are Elrog, Psvane ACME, WE new issue, and Takatsuki.

Have you tried RK PX25? I think it’s a much better alternative to KR242, than a 300B. Although I must admit, I have not tried every available 300b tube.

 

[christoph]

A search will tell you. At least in the States, the Orange is $159, but typically twice a year they do a 3 for 2 deal through their resellers. They just did one in July, so I expect it again in December. The QSA yellow is listed on the U.S. distributor’s site, tweekgeek.com, as $213. At least the upper end SR fuses are not built to industry (Underwriters Lab) specs, so it’s common to order the next size up, or 25% higher, to guard against blowing.

A stock fuse doesn’t compare with the Orange, not close, or most any in SR’s line (tonally, SR fuses are not all the same; e.g., the Orange is warmer than the Blue). Reviews of QSA fuses say that’s even more the case with them.

Thanks

 

[MOME]

Thanks

I would like to share with you a complete new way of solving the fuse issue:

look at: www.efuse.net

I use it for all my components with fantastic improvement of sound

 

[dminches]

I would like to share with you a complete new way of solving the fuse issue:

look at: www.efuse.net

I use it for all my components with fantastic improvement of sound

What does an efuse cost?

 

[highstream]

I would like to share with you a complete new way of solving the fuse issue:

look at: www.efuse.net

I use it for all my components with fantastic improvement of sound

The Efuse appears to be a high end audio oriented power strip, surge protector and to some degree conditioner. It does beg the matter of components' fuses, though, which are a separate matter further down the line.

 

[Willgolf]

Im using QSA red and it's sth like few thousands upgarde in power cable, im using both SR orange, power lab ultimate zero .etc but QSA is better in DAC, they all have different characters and need to spend time for mix and match

Forget the price, do you think the Red is worth the jump from my yellow fuses in my whole system? If I upgraded, I would only do with the Pacific

 

[Bobofei86]

Forget the price, do you think the Red is worth the jump from my yellow fuses in my whole system? If I upgraded, I would only do with the Pacific

I didn’t try the yellow and my dealer recommend the red to me to replace ultimate zero, UZ was the best one to match with my GG2 before I tried QS, the difference is very significant and everything sounds more meaty with good details and resolution, something like upgrade from a Furutech power cord to Slitech, it’s pricey but I think it’s a gold spend for the DAC, however, I find the ultimate zero is a better choice for my active speakers power amp which is more powerful, SR orange is a very safe bet and all round which I used for my streamer and LPS and a good one to start with,

my dealer said power lab will launch a new version of Ultimate zero soon and I will try to compare them with the QS new version again

 

[MOME]

The Efuse appears to be a high end audio oriented power strip, surge protector and to some degree conditioner. It does beg the matter of components' fuses, though, which are a separate matter further down the line.

The main purpose of the efuse is to replace the conventional fuses with solid copper bolts and to guarantee the fuse function electronically. This eliminates the eye of the needle of the thin fuse wire which significantly increases the sound quality. All other functions such as surge protection, filtering and power strip are optional and may or may not be useful depending on your need. Price 1500-3000€
It is possible to use only one efuse unit to protect all your components by using it in front of your conventional power strip.

 

[highstream]

The main purpose of the efuse is to replace the conventional fuses with solid copper bolts and to guarantee the fuse function electronically. This eliminates the eye of the needle of the thin fuse wire which significantly increases the sound quality. All other functions such as surge protection, filtering and power strip are optional and may or may not be useful depending on your need. Price 1500-3000€
It is possible to use only one efuse unit to protect all your components by using it in front of your conventional power strip.

If you’re referring to their internal device, which they recommend a professional install, yes, but that’s the only device they say replaces the fuse for a single component. From what I see on the English version of the site, the rest are external power strips, and they make no claim about them replacing individual component fuses.

 

[highstream]

I didn’t try the yellow and my dealer recommend the red to me to replace ultimate zero, UZ was the best one to match with my GG2 before I tried QS, the difference is very significant and everything sounds more meaty with good details and resolution, something like upgrade from a Furutech power cord to Slitech, it’s pricey but I think it’s a gold spend for the DAC, however, I find the ultimate zero is a …

my dealer said power lab will launch a new version of Ultimate zero soon and I will try to compare them with the QS new version again

Do you have a link for Power Lab? I can’t find any reference to it or an Ultimate Zero fuse.

 

[MOME]

If you’re referring to their internal device, which they recommend a professional install, yes, but that’s the only device they say replaces the fuse for a single component. From what I see on the English version of the site, the rest are external power strips, and they make no claim about them replacing individual component fuses.

I have the efuse in use. The usual application is to use an external version of the efuse. This can be used for a single component or for several components by connecting the efuse in front of a power strip. For all components where the efuse is connected upstream, the fuse can be replaced with the copper bolt.
This applies to the main fuse of the power supply unit but not to the internal fuses installed inside the device.

 

[Zero000]

I'm confused.

Killer, huh?