Lampizator Valve / Tube Rolling Review Thread

[dminches]

Actually i didn’t - have like 4/5 pairs maybe and out of that i got like 3 pairs with my pre...

Same here. I have been using 1 pair for 4 months now.

 

[Golum]

I’m expecting arrival of 01A to try them out - hope they deliver as well...

 

[dminches]

I’m expecting arrival of 01A to try them out - hope they deliver as well...

Let us know.

 

[Golum]

Let us know.

Will do for sure and I also got a pair of 46 but waiting for idiotic adapters for more then a month now...my grandmother in Zimbabwe would make them and bring them with Pony Express faster

 

[christoph]

Well, the amps are dual mono, so one had the RK; the other a regular KR. So the effect is diluted. Also, the effect is lessened in the amp position compared to the dac, as you would expect. Sure, the RK is better in the amp in the same ways - better detail, more refined, and a grander presentation through the lower mid-range.

With old stock tubes escalating with every post here (it seems) the RK 5u4g is now a better value than before, if it suits your system. I look for linearity and resolution in my tubes (because the system has so many). Not trying to soften or add effect. This is where the KR tubes do well in a modern hi-res world. If I want soft and forgiving, I plug in my old GEC U52 and UX112a outputs.

Unfortunately for US, the USD exchange rate sucks right now.

I also still love the RK 5u4g rectifier a lot

 

[christoph]

I’m expecting arrival of 01A to try them out - hope they deliver as well...

I'm curious how you like them

 

[Zero000]

I have to say this I think.

I really, really like 6C4C. No question about it. I think it's the best value for money new triode I have come across.

See a few pages back for more info anyone.

 

[JSA]

I have to say this I think.

I really, really like 6C4C. No question about it. I think it's the best value for money new triode I have come across.

See a few pages back for more info anyone.

What kind of adapter is needed to use 6C4C in Lampi?

 

[Zero000]

What kind of adapter is needed to use 6C4C in Lampi?

1pc Gold plated 6B4G TO 6A3 Tube converter adapter | eBay

1pc Gold plated 6B4G TO 6A3converter adapter.Your amp socket is 6A3(6.3V version 2A3 tube) 4pin tube socket. Every product will be tested before we send out.

www.ebay.co.uk

Sorry, when I say new I mean there are so many available unused at such a low price they really are NOS. Not NOS wannabes

You may hear some pings as the tubes warm up but it does sound really good for the most part. Perhaps a bit of nasality to it but it's fairly pleasant in nature. Otherwise I think it's all good. Microphony not as low as Tesla AD1n but not much touches that grandmaster of a tube in that respect. Sonically I like it very nearly as much but technically I think 6C4C is a tad behind.

Goran finds AD1n a bit dark but 6C4C is not that I would say.

 

[dminches]

Is the 6S4S tube different?

 

[Zero000]

Is the 6S4S tube different?

No it's the same tube.

Note that more 6S4S seem to show up on eBay if you search for 6B4G. Which you can also use. Some nice tubes in 6B4G land at low prices. Think 6A3 with a different base. Since many Lampis can't use 2A3, 6A3 and 6B4G are essentially the same tube but with a 6.3V filament. Best used in the 300B position in stock Lampis.

 

[Zero000]

This I think is the first time I have heard Sylvania VT-52 running on filament spec and it is sounding excellent. Better than 6C4C without a doubt.

When I first got my Big 7, one of the very first, this was my overall favourite for a very long time.

Like meeting an old girlfriend you know you still love

This runs at 0.5V less than the Western Electric version.

When you have filament voltage control and run the triode at spec, they all look well lit.

Something that is way different to the behaviour of original Big 7. Which was always obvious. But hey, it was still a fun machine

 

[Golum]

After looking into many DHTs and what we can use, I decided to write here two specs for different tubes.
Having on Pacific and GG2, 5 position rotary switch which is adjusting heater circuit in the DACs with the numbers below we can I believe easier navigate through different tubes and maybe look for some alternatives in the wast world of DHTs. First number represents heater voltage and second is heater current per tube model.
Using the figures below you can for example see that rotary switch for regular ad1 should be set in PX4 position while for Tesla ad1n in PX25 position.
Maybe this should also be put in Pacific thread as it mostly relates to Pac and GG users.
If i made any mistake please correct me, as in several cases for one tube type i found a bit different numbers from different manufacturers.
Please note KR242 is spec wise not the same as Elrog 242.

PX25: 4V; 2A
RD27AS: 4V; 1.8-2.3A
PX4: 4V; 1.0A
ad1: 4V; 0.95A
ad1n: 4V; 2A
KR242: 4V; 0.65A
101D: 4.5V; 1.0A
45: 2.5V; 1.5A
300b: 5V; 1.2/3A
100T: 5V; 2.0A
842: 5V; 1.9A

01A: 5V; 0.25A
12A/112A: 5V; 0.25A
71A: 5V; 0.25A
46: 2.5V; 1.75A (adapter needed UX5 to UX4)
345: 2.5V; 1.5A

Just to update this post a bit with few new types which we can use...

 

[Zero000]

TBH after a while VT52 as per the post above started sounding odd.

I think 7V is the Western Electric voltage, it's too much for the Sylvania. More experimentation required.

 

[Golum]

It should be 6.3 for vt52 i believe

 

[Zero000]

Yeah I think that's right. I also remember something about it operating at different voltages when on ground as opposed to in air. Don't quote me on that, though.

 

[Zero000]

TMBF1. 4V 0.6A and a bit of a gamble I am not sure if I will be able to run that I'm just hoping I can.

The guy that sold me them included the cute blue Thompson-CSF PTT213F valves pictured, saying they were the best drivers for them.

Very nice of him, especially for the price he sold them to me for.

Will see if I can get them working well in about an hour

They are delightful to look at in the flesh with their unconventional approach. Really quite unique, though not totally. If they won't run I'm keeping them anyway

 

[Zero000]

It's a no go. I can set a current rating with the selector switch and get a nearly +/- voltage swing of 50%.

But what I can't appear to do is drop the voltage when the current required is a lot less than the switch position. In this case 40%.

Will email the maker.

 

[Golum]

TMBF1. 4V 0.6A and a bit of a gamble I am not sure if I will be able to run that I'm just hoping I can.

The guy that sold me them included the cute blue Thompson-CSF PTT213F valves pictured, saying they were the best drivers for them.

Very nice of him, especially for the price he sold them to me for.

Will see if I can get them working well in about an hour

They are delightful to look at in the flesh with their unconventional approach. Really quite unique, though not totally. If they won't run I'm keeping them any

Very vague try of the empire to strike back

 

[Zero000]

Lovely Goran.

To run TMBF1, I gotta get soldering. The man says:

Hi Justin,
It's not quite that simple, the switch is a 6 way on each wafer and combinations of wafers control the current.
You could use position 5 fir all 1A valves, you would just have more heat on the heatsink with 4V valves.
To make position 1 into a 0.6A you will need to change two resistors.
There are two 0.12 ohm, they are rectangular block white ceramic.
These need to be changed to 0.75 ohms.
ATB