Regenerator are different. They are impacted by the power from the wall and the power cord.
Battery Power
- Thread starter Kingrex
- Start date
Surely. But the PSAudio use a linear power supply to create DC and re-generate the mains from this DC. In principle they could be operated by batteries.
I envy people having 110Vac mains. I could easily built a power regenerator coupling two high power class D amplifiers driven in antiphase. But 230Vac needs a much higher voltage swing. Some of my equipment can be easily we-wired to 110Vac, but it seems a crazy solution.
See: https://www.soundimports.eu/en/icep...Qy7CuLrb3pKJsD9RVulsU9LV5kLjFYccaAs1bEALw_wcB
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I would like to know how to build up amps with parts. I still want to make a swarm one day. I need 4 robust amps. On a retired farmers budget.
Are you addressing amplifiers for general audio, subwoofers or for power regenerators?
I have tried it using a PC software generator coupled to a USB sound box, similar to one I am showing in other posts in this thread. It could drive the amplifiers directly, but in order to avoid ground loops I inserted a Jensen insulating transformer. The nice thing is that we can generate harmonics and create our own distortions. SpectraPLUS-SC - IMO a very versatile audio packages for audio analysis. The photos I have shown are however measured with a free package that can also be used for this purpose - Soundcard Scope . The site is now down, we can download it from https://scope.software.informer.com/download/#downloading - at your own risk, surely!
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In some sense - currently I use a Nordost QB8 and either Nordost power cables, or an Hubbell hospital grade power strip with Ching Cheng power cables or a Furutech home built power strip. All straight from the wall.
I use the Nordost Qkore6 grounding system - but as I said elsewhere when comparing equipment I take it out of the system. I want to carry comparisons without the addition of selected noise ...
Talking about hot rotting equipment. If someone were to take a Torus RM20 and direct wire out from the transformer taps to a nice power strip, that would be a nice setup. You could place the core to the side and use a 10 foot cable to connect. Seriously, #10 solid thhn, hand twist the hot and Neutral. Sleve those and the 10 ground into a tech flex sleeve. That would work fine for a cable.
You know what makes for a good, reversible connection in a tight box like a home made power strip. Get a copper ground bar. No tin. Use a metal saw and cut off 1 terminal hole. Overcut to ensure you have the whole terminal. Clean the edges with a file. All smooth. Deox the whole thing. Use that to clamp a single 10 to the lead in the power strip. You could also cut off 4 or so terminals. Now you have 1 hole for power in and 3 to go to duplex. Your basically making a drilled and tapped bus bar. Use teflon plumbers tape. Then a wrap of vinyl tape.
You know what makes for a good, reversible connection in a tight box like a home made power strip. Get a copper ground bar. No tin. Use a metal saw and cut off 1 terminal hole. Overcut to ensure you have the whole terminal. Clean the edges with a file. All smooth. Deox the whole thing. Use that to clamp a single 10 to the lead in the power strip. You could also cut off 4 or so terminals. Now you have 1 hole for power in and 3 to go to duplex. Your basically making a drilled and tapped bus bar. Use teflon plumbers tape. Then a wrap of vinyl tape.
Outside post 193, I see advantages to modifying a rack mount transformer. I'm basically turning it into a wallmount installation.
In a remote mount, You can use better duplex.
I also see benefits in moving the noise from the core away from gear. I had to move one away from a 45 SET to a horn at one home. Why not get the core 4 to 6 feet from the rack. Bring a quality power strip behind the rach that is tapped off the transformer.
I'm all talk so to speak. I do have a nice power strip behind my rack and my Torus off to the side. But I did like most everyone and plugged into an outlet.
I would not fault anyone swapping out duplex in the unit. Thats doable. Would take a skilled hand. But can be done.
I listened to an amazingly well tuned wilson/D'agostino/DCS/Shunyata Everest system recently. The owner has 4 Tesla Powerwall in the garage. I asked if he could disconnect from the utility and play on just battery. Not a problem he said. With about 30 seconds of fiddling on his phone, he was able to activate the transfer switch, disconnect the utility and run the house on battery power only. I thought I heard a slight difference. My friend Bob said he could not. Another friend though he heard something too.
At a minimum, a system run off a battery was almost indistinguishable from the street. This system from what I understand only has 1 circuit to the rack. I don't know if its a 12 or a 10. For a single circuit feeding a Shunyate Everest feeding an entire system with a D'Agostino stereo amp, it was pretty darn effortless. I was not hearing a lack of power. The subs in the room were on a standard wall outlet that is most definitely #14 shared across the wall. 2 subs and a TV on the circuit.
I am not sure how all this impact the battery vs utility equation. I don't know if a system feed with multiple large gauge wire circuits would reveal more of the difference between battery and utility. A powerwall has an output of around 40 to 100 Amps depending on the model. With a 200A service and 4 on the wall, I assume these are powerwall 1 and all 4 are providing around 160 amps of power to the service. The branch wire and 20A CB are the limitation to power.
This makes me more interested in putting together a 3000W inverter. The batteries I am looking at have about a peak output of 40A. I would still go for power from the road before a battery. But if you were in a situation where the power to a rack was insufficient and you were in a building that could not be updated with new wiring, a Battery seems to be an option that may have very little limitations compared to the wall. Provided the right batteries and inverter is used.
It also says, if you are on utility power and want to get off the grid thinking its cleaner to not be on it. I don't see adding powerwall as a solution. If I can't really tell a difference and one friend who I trust hears no difference, then the gain of adding $60K in electrical energy storage is not the answer for audio. It is the answer to poor utility power and backup power in blackouts.
At a minimum, a system run off a battery was almost indistinguishable from the street. This system from what I understand only has 1 circuit to the rack. I don't know if its a 12 or a 10. For a single circuit feeding a Shunyate Everest feeding an entire system with a D'Agostino stereo amp, it was pretty darn effortless. I was not hearing a lack of power. The subs in the room were on a standard wall outlet that is most definitely #14 shared across the wall. 2 subs and a TV on the circuit.
I am not sure how all this impact the battery vs utility equation. I don't know if a system feed with multiple large gauge wire circuits would reveal more of the difference between battery and utility. A powerwall has an output of around 40 to 100 Amps depending on the model. With a 200A service and 4 on the wall, I assume these are powerwall 1 and all 4 are providing around 160 amps of power to the service. The branch wire and 20A CB are the limitation to power.
This makes me more interested in putting together a 3000W inverter. The batteries I am looking at have about a peak output of 40A. I would still go for power from the road before a battery. But if you were in a situation where the power to a rack was insufficient and you were in a building that could not be updated with new wiring, a Battery seems to be an option that may have very little limitations compared to the wall. Provided the right batteries and inverter is used.
It also says, if you are on utility power and want to get off the grid thinking its cleaner to not be on it. I don't see adding powerwall as a solution. If I can't really tell a difference and one friend who I trust hears no difference, then the gain of adding $60K in electrical energy storage is not the answer for audio. It is the answer to poor utility power and backup power in blackouts.
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