SS Amp Performance Characteristics

What are you listening for that lets you say one is clearly better than the other.
A quick comparison is to check for frequency extremes, particularly highs & then, bass. To do this correctly you have to allow for the remaining system's faults / insufficiencies, and speaker set-up. (I.e. you might hear better articulated bass but if it's stronger it may excite room modes which are not the amp's fault)
I was reading some ASR reviews. Oddly, some of the best bench tested SS amps are under $1,000. And now were back to, do specs mean anything.
Yes — a well-executed IC evaluation board can measure exceptionally well. That’s precisely its purpose: to provide a controlled reference platform for assessing the IC’s intrinsic performance and to serve as a baseline for system integration.

In fact, many cost-effective commercial amplifiers are essentially derivatives of these evaluation platforms, often enclosed in a chassis with some additional circuitry. This isn’t inherently negative — the performance-to-cost ratio of such designs can be excellent.

However, the resulting sonic character of an amplifier is not determined by the module alone. It’s a function of the complete electroacoustic system, particularly the interaction between the amplifier’s output stage and the loudspeaker load. Parameters such as output impedance, damping factor, load stability, and feedback implementation play a significant role in the perceived sound.

If possible, it’s highly instructive to compare different amplifier topologies in a controlled environment:
  • GaN-based Class D designs (e.g., Atma-Sphere) — offering fast switching, low dead time, and potentially lower distortion.
  • Purifi Eigentakt modules (e.g., NAD M33) — known for ultra-low distortion and load-invariant performance.
  • Conventional Class AB designs using MOSFET or bipolar devices (e.g., Accuphase) — often valued for their linearity and established design maturity.
Ultimately, as others have mentioned above, your preferred solution will depend on the specific system context and subjective listening preferences. Class D topologies additionally offer practical benefits such as high efficiency, low thermal footprint, and significantly reduced weight... easier to carry around!
Good luck, the fun is in the quest!
 
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I don't think so. From a distant recollection this hybrid was akin to Quad's ancient current dumping bridge: a class A amp connected to the load at all times with class B dumpers providing extra current when needed. Class D instead of the class B dumpers.

The voltage gain comes from a class A amplification circuit, but here this is not the focus.
Ok, maybe you are right about this because their literature is somewhat contradictory where they describe something like you are talking about but also that the Class A does the voltage and the Class D does the current. My understanding of the Quad idea was that most of the current is from the Class B "muscle" but that the class A contributes as well to a small extent and that is not how Devialet describes it...
 
Yes. I was a stupid sucker that went back many times under the promise that this was the fix. It was a slow blead. But I was also lead to believe that SET was the best way to go. My speaker is 96db. And the 845 makes about 17 watts. So I was believing I was chasing gold. I ended up with a hunk of lead. I got Fd from start to finish.
For that money you could have tried other SETs that might have been more to your satisfaction.
 
“The world’s first hybrid amplification technology delivers all the refinement of Analog amplification (Class A) with all the power and compactness of Digital amplification (Class D).Based on the same principle as advanced driver assistance, the idea of ADH is to maintain the analogue amplifier's voltage generating function (to maintain their excellent audio performance levels), while entrusting the current generation function, and accordingly, that of generating power for the load, to an amplifier equipped with drastically superior energy efficiency: in this case a digital amplifier, otherwise known as a switch amplifier.“

Says here Class A for voltage and D for current.

Again, no. It is much more complicated then you seem to assume.
 
Ok, maybe you are right about this because their literature is somewhat contradictory where they describe something like you are talking about but also that the Class A does the voltage and the Class D does the current. My understanding of the Quad idea was that most of the current is from the Class B "muscle" but that the class A contributes as well to a small extent and that is not how Devialet describes it...

If we go through marketing literature we seldom manage to understand how things really work. It is written in free and inaccurate style, trying to simplify things in a way that people without proper expertise in electronics feel they are understanding it and do not get bored with it, but get impressed. Devialet even refer they use a "feedforward" model in ADH.

When Peter Walker presented his 405 amplifier, no one had a firm idea on how current dumping really worked, although the schematics were known.
For years known electronic engineers and designers send letters to the editor of "Wireless World" claiming different modes of operation and debating them before the circuit was fully understood. After multiple explanatory articles, including later clarifications by Walker himself and by other commentators such as Peter Baxandall the consensus emerged that current dumping was indeed a feedforward correction system:
 
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For that money you could have tried other SETs that might have been more to your satisfaction.
You must have misread my comment. OF course I could have tried another SET. I could have tired all sorts of SET for that money. I got Fxxked. Right. I'm pissed about it. I lost my opportunity to have a good set because I was sold a broken piece of crap from a member here a long time ago. You can refer to the Sick Of Failing Amplifier Tread to know who started it. I should have returned it, but he told me to pound sand. He had F me good and that was that. I did not know at the time I could just write Paypal, dispute the sale and return the good. Now I will never have a SET that works properly to understand what they do. And that is fine really. I am over the got to have a SET craze.

From what I have experienced, the speaker and the room make the stereo The amp is less an influence as long as its matched correctly to the load. The amp I have currently is unmatched by any I have had on many levels. Is it perfect. No. But I am less a fool today than I was many years ago. I am not getting into the carnival again. I wanted a SS amp to fiddle with biamping. But more important, I wanted one to test a Battery/Inverter to better understand what I am hearing from the power supply. I need options to validate what I hear.

FWIW, I have all my batteries and and inverter. I also have a tech in line to modify inverters. Maybe change FET or caps to try and improve the performance.
 
Very soon. I have a thread on Battery/Inverter power supplies where I will post impressions. I am starting with a 105AH quality built lithium battery and a 3000 watt Victron inverter. That a 25 Amp at 120 volt output. I am also looking at some 2000 to 4000 watt Exeltech inverters.
All of these inverters can be synced on the output and paralleled to well over 100 to 200 amps at 120 volt of power.
All these inverters are very stable and have lower THD than the wall. The Exeltech has lower THD than at any residence I have visited.
One setup is currently in a members hand. He is still trying a variety of post filters to get the distortion even lower. I will have mine up and running in a few days. I need some cable and FTZ lugs. I will probably purchase them Tuesday.

I am confident I can make a battery/inverter solution that beats wall power. If you have wall power based upon a copper NQ panelboard, proper grounding, and well executed branch wiring, then the battery/inverter may only match it or be slightly different. My belief about a good inverter is that once you know the distorting signature and have the right filter, you have a foundation that is unchanging. For the most part, It will perform exactly the same in every installation. The only variable would be EMF coupling on the secondary of the system and/or back pollution from attached equipment. But we are also working on fully independent power supplies that are only connected by a ethernet cable to sync the outputs phase and frequency.
Wait are you powering that SS amp off a battery inverter ..?
 
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Now I will never have a SET that works properly to understand what they do. And that is fine really. I am over the got to have a SET craze.

SETs are not required. I have heard many SET amps by now (close to 10?) , and I can appreciate that they are good amplifiers. Yet I have never grasped what allegedly makes them so special. I love my push-pull tube amp just fine.
 
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Very soon. I have a thread on Battery/Inverter power supplies where I will post impressions. I am starting with a 105AH quality built lithium battery and a 3000 watt Victron inverter. That a 25 Amp at 120 volt output. I am also looking at some 2000 to 4000 watt Exeltech inverters.
All of these inverters can be synced on the output and paralleled to well over 100 to 200 amps at 120 volt of power.
All these inverters are very stable and have lower THD than the wall. The Exeltech has lower THD than at any residence I have visited.
One setup is currently in a members hand. He is still trying a variety of post filters to get the distortion even lower. I will have mine up and running in a few days. I need some cable and FTZ lugs. I will probably purchase them Tuesday.

I am confident I can make a battery/inverter solution that beats wall power. If you have wall power based upon a copper NQ panelboard, proper grounding, and well executed branch wiring, then the battery/inverter may only match it or be slightly different. My belief about a good inverter is that once you know the distorting signature and have the right filter, you have a foundation that is unchanging. For the most part, It will perform exactly the same in every installation. The only variable would be EMF coupling on the secondary of the system and/or back pollution from attached equipment. But we are also working on fully independent power supplies that are only connected by a ethernet cable to sync the outputs phase and frequency.
I would take a look at the sine wave output of your pure inverter.
 
You must have misread my comment. OF course I could have tried another SET. I could have tired all sorts of SET for that money. I got Fxxked. Right. I'm pissed about it. I lost my opportunity to have a good set because I was sold a broken piece of crap from a member here a long time ago. You can refer to the Sick Of Failing Amplifier Tread to know who started it. I should have returned it, but he told me to pound sand. He had F me good and that was that. I did not know at the time I could just write Paypal, dispute the sale and return the good. Now I will never have a SET that works properly to understand what they do. And that is fine really. I am over the got to have a SET craze.

From what I have experienced, the speaker and the room make the stereo The amp is less an influence as long as its matched correctly to the load. The amp I have currently is unmatched by any I have had on many levels. Is it perfect. No. But I am less a fool today than I was many years ago. I am not getting into the carnival again. I wanted a SS amp to fiddle with biamping. But more important, I wanted one to test a Battery/Inverter to better understand what I am hearing from the power supply. I need options to validate what I hear.

FWIW, I have all my batteries and and inverter. I also have a tech in line to modify inverters. Maybe change FET or caps to try and improve the performance.
But you didn't buy the amps originally for anywhere close to $15K I hope...that means you poured good money after bad. Why that should sour you on trying other SETs is beyond me...it has to do with an individual who sold you poor quality goods...it is not an indictment of a whole amplifier topology.

Seriously, with the right speakers, which yours probably are, SET is the best sounding option...I could care less about what the SS crowd or Al M. says, most of them lack the necessary experience of ownership to know what I and other SET lovers on this forum are talking about. I owned a fairly large number of big SS amps and big PP tube amps, OTLs and even 4 different Class D amps in the past. None of it gives the natural musicality of SET. More hyped up detail? Sure some of them do more than SET but again, is it natural sounding? I think you just learned the answer.
 
SETs are not required. I have heard many SET amps by now (close to 10?) , and I can appreciate that they are good amplifiers. Yet I have never grasped what allegedly makes them so special. I love my push-pull tube amp just fine.
A really nice SET matched to speakers designed to take advantage of their deficiencies can be really good in what they do …
 
SETs are not required. I have heard many SET amps by now (close to 10?) , and I can appreciate that they are good amplifiers. Yet I have never grasped what allegedly makes them so special. I love my push-pull tube amp just fine.
Maybe not with your medium sensitivity speakers. But with high sensitivity speakers, one can hear how poor most PP tube amps (there are a few Class A triode with no feedback models that do well) sound compared to a good quality SET.
 
Maybe not with your medium sensitivity speakers. But with high sensitivity speakers, one can hear how poor most PP tube amps (there are a few Class A triode with no feedback models that do well) sound compared to a good quality SET.

I have heard all of them on high sensitivity speakers.
 
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I have heard all of them on high sensitivity speakers.
Practically everyone one I know with high sensitivity speakers has a SET on them...they have the funds to buy what they want and they don't choose PP tube or SS amps...
 
But you didn't buy the amps originally for anywhere close to $15K I hope...that means you poured good money after bad. Why that should sour you on trying other SETs is beyond me...it has to do with an individual who sold you poor quality goods...it is not an indictment of a whole amplifier topology.

Seriously, with the right speakers, which yours probably are, SET is the best sounding option...I could care less about what the SS crowd or Al M. says, most of them lack the necessary experience of ownership to know what I and other SET lovers on this forum are talking about. I owned a fairly large number of big SS amps and big PP tube amps, OTLs and even 4 different Class D amps in the past. None of it gives the natural musicality of SET. More hyped up detail? Sure some of them do more than SET but again, is it natural sounding? I think you just learned the answer.
I'm retired and the SET people talk about loving are in the $20K to $30K range. Way way way way way out of my price range. They days of throwing money at a stereo are over for me. I am far more interested in spending my money of building my house and improving the lands around me.

And you are right. I am pissed I kept throwing money at the Audion. I was convinced it was a great foundation to get SET glory. That just a few more tweaks to correct the circuit would fix it. It never did. The bass from my PP KT88 is so superior its not even a contest. The Audio is too slow and artificially full. If you play the Eagles with the Audion and don't know any better, its like, Wow. That's nice. But put the Blade KT88 back in and you immediately hear more information as well as recognize the thwack of drums and the pluck of bass notes are much more natural, lifelike and dynamic. The Audion is bloomy and lush. That is pleasing and easy to listen too. But its lacking important elements I want. Once I added The BB10 sub, I got the bass that I needed with the Blade to make the system more complete.

FWIW, with the A3cr. I can hardly tell the sub is playing. The bass from the main speakers overwhelmes the output from the sub. That was something I was curious about.
 
I found some Musical Fidelity retailers in Oregon. I am driving through for Thanksgiving. I will call a few and see if any have a repair shop that can put the amp on a bench and test it for functionality.
 
Practically everyone one I know with high sensitivity speakers has a SET on them...they have the funds to buy what they want and they don't choose PP tube or SS amps...
Wasn't one of you tearing Peter a new one over peak power being drawn from his amps, and he has 106db efficient speakers. My speakers are 96db. Far less than his. I am using a 40 watt amps. Maybe a touch more as I have a KT120 tube in it.

They person that made my amp also makes very fine SET. But he felt a SET did not have enough power to properly push my speakers. So I opted for the PP.
He did say he can make me a PP811. That would have more body. But currently my amps are monoblocks and weigh 78 lbs each. He said he would have to make larger amps that weighed even more.
Or he could go the other way and make EL34 amps like Jazdocs. Those are a little more lush than mine. Mine are more muscular. He could also put a Hashimoto output transformer in to replace the Monolith. They are also warmer but loose some detail. Amps seem to have trade off's.
 

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