Fuses for CH P?

[engadin]

I have recently acquired L1, X1, A1.5.
They are still in their boxes, set up will be November and December, as I am most of my time abroad now.

I do like SR master fuses. They are in my Sean Jacobs mini arc 6 dc4, in my Taiko Extreme, even in my REL sub.
There are some remarks found in SR recommendations and reviews not to overdo it with SR master fuses.
To my consternation L1, X1 and A1.5 will need five fuses…

As I have learned in this forum, even when using the X1, power cord to L1 is still relevant for sound.
So I am afraid all of these 5 fuses make a difference. Sigh.

What are your experiences with CH P and fuses, your recommendations?

Thx a lot in advance for your input!

 

[sbnx]

I have experimented with fuses in CH. I have an L10 and a C1.2 and T1. Each CH piece has two fuses. A main fuse and a stand by fuse. All of the fuses matter. But I would estimate the main fuse is about 75-80% of the upgrade.

I ended up using QSA fuses. I experimented with Yellow, Violet and Red/black. The Yellow fuse increases the resolution. Still has the primary CH sound. The yellow fuse is about $200 ea. so I consider spending this $400 per box as pretty much a no-brainer. But, the Violet brings some emotion to the table. I cosider the Violet to be the sweetspot of QSA fuses. It really adds something special to the CH. The Violet is $700. You can do a Violet in the main and yellow in the standby for under $1000 per box and this is quite the upgrade in sound quality. With red you simply get more of what Violet gives you. Lower noise and more dynamics. Then we have red/black. Again, lower noise, more decay, more separaton, more everything. I ended up going red/black on the Mains and Violet on the standby. This is just so good. The price is crazy. The red/black is about $3k so this combo is $3700 per box.

CH gear is so responsive to everything you do to it. I use RevOpods for the footers, HRS damping plate on top of each box, A CAD USB Ground control in the empty slot on the back and a Chord Company RJ45 Ground Aray in any empty ethernet ports. As good as CH already is, if you do all of these things to lower the noise floor even further it is amazing the musicality that can be extracted from these boxes.

Yes, the powercord to the L1 matters as well as the X1. You can also get an upgraded umbiblical from Nordost between the L1 and X1.

 

[engadin]

Sigh.

Dear sbnx,
your answer is what I was afraid of.
I had already achieved this unfortunate state of “whatever you, it will be audible” with my vintage JRDG amps.
Several folks whose judgment I do trust have been enthusiastic about QSA.
Up to now I had been successful avoiding their stuff.
Some of us, me included, aren’t millionaires but simply are irresponsible

Reading too much Gy8 made me already buy a CAD usb control.

Did you compare QSA with SR master? Audio Magic?

Thx for your input!

 

[sbnx]

I did not try the audio magic. There are too many different aftermarket fuse brands to try them all. I don't know how much effort you want to put into finding the "perfect" fuse. All I can share is what happens as you move up the QSA line of fuses. You could get a yellow and a violet and a SR master and see which one you like better.

 

[engadin]

True.
Too many options.

That is why I asked for combinations already tried.
Thank you once again!

 

[Iamrael]

Maybe consider the Swiss Digital Fuse Box.

 

[engadin]

I do not think the Swiss Digital Fuse box would work, as there are TWO fuses with different Ampere in the CH P amps.

Which is the direction of fuses in CH P gear? From inside to the outer contact?

 

[sbnx]

I do not think the Swiss Digital Fuse box would work, as there are TWO fuses with different Ampere in the CH P amps.

Which is the direction of fuses in CH P gear? From inside to the outer contact?

Hello, I don't have a CH P amp. As mentioned I use QSA fuses. They have an arrow on them so you can tell the direction. For the L10, C1.2, T1 the arrow points into the holder. See pic below.

When you order the fuses pay particular attention to which ones are slow blow. If you put a fast blow fuse on the L10 it will blow when you start it up. I am pretty sure the same would happen with the M10.

 

[engadin]

@snbx regarding QSA: looking at your pic it seems red/black (bigger fuse) points into holder, violet (smaller fuse) points OUT of the holder, correct?

 

[sbnx]

A

@snbx regarding QSA: looking at your pic it seems red/black (bigger fuse) points into holder, violet (smaller fuse) points OUT of the holder, correct?

astute observation. Yes the main fuse (red-black) points in. The standby (violet) points out.

 

[engadin]

A

astute observation. Yes the main fuse (red-black) points in. The standby (violet) points out.

So … these are the preferred directions?
Main fuse pointing in, standby fuse pointing out?

 

[sbnx]

So … these are the preferred directions?
Main fuse pointing in, standby fuse pointing out?

This orientation was achieved by listening. It was preferred by me and i assume you will prefer it also.

 

[engadin]

Thx for confirming and I will certainly follow your recommendation!

 

[engadin]

Greetings and many thanks to Hans!
L1 and C1.2 have in his opinion the main fuse pointing into the removable fuse drawer, just like Todd.

 

[engadin]

But the Schurter fuse drawer for X1 is different.
Here main and small fuse change places in the (110-240V switchable) fuse drawer.
Someone checked Live and Neutral at the X1 or determined fuse direction by listening?
Please do let us know!

 

[engadin]

Fuse direction for the simple screw in fuse holders of A1.5 and M10 should be simple:
UL regulations demand Live to be inside, Neutral at the outer contact. For safety reasons.

Still missing: info for X1 fuse direction.

 

[engadin]

I just received the data sheets from CH P.

My knowledge of things electric is pretty basic.
As far as I understand it, the main fuse is in L, the standby fuse is in N. Both in series.
Can someone deduct from the data sheets where L and N are in the fuse holders?

 

[sbnx]

Below is the fuse info for the X1. I don't own an X1 so I can't tell you which direction the fuse needs to go. You can see the way it is labeled in the picture -- A (Standby) is a glass fuse and B (Main) is a Ceramic fuse. The standby fuse (A) is a fast blow fuse (F) and the main fuse (B) is a slow blow fuse (S). You can read the info on one of the metal ends of the fuse. You will likely need a magnifying glass or your phone camera to zoom in. On the mains fuse you should see something like T5A and 250V. This means it is a 250 Volt, 5 Amp, Slow blow fuse. Please verify before you commit an expensive fuse.

 

[engadin]

Hi Todd! Thank you!
I live in Europe with 230V, so I think it should be 2.5A and 250mA for X1.
I already bought fuses.
Less expensive ones. M-2 are supposed to sound organic, emphasizing emotional content. For X1, L1, A1.5. I chose Ampere values as listed below. Hope this will sound good.
I’ll put them in next week when coming home.
Imo the data sheets doesn’t help with direction for fuses of X1.

 

[sbnx]

Hi Todd! Thank you!
I live in Europe with 230V, so I think it should be 2.5A and 250mA for X1.
I already bought fuses.
Less expensive ones. M-2 are supposed to sound organic, emphasizing emotional content. For X1, L1, A1.5. I chose Ampere values as listed below. Hope this will sound good.
I’ll put them in next week when coming home.
Imo the data sheets doesn’t help with direction for fuses of X1.

Yes, you are correct since you have a 230V feeed.