I have currently a 1977 Fisher CA-2110 integrated amp(60w/channel, but whether that's if only two speakers are connected or all four is not clarified), a pair of Beovox RL 6000s. They're connected to the amp by two meter spans of "14g" Monster XP navajo cable, just basic side-by-side and un-shielded, raw-ended. The speakers use spring clips and the amp uses binding posts which do not have central holes for banana plugs and at time of initial setup I did not have knowledge that I could apply connectors to the ends of the cable/that either terminal type would accept connectors as opposed to raw-ended cable. I also possess a pair of Beovox RL 35s which are not connected at this time).
Yesterday I contacted Crutchfield with questions regarding the ohm ratings for speakers and what they meant. Since my only prior experience has been with headphones, I am used to ohm ratings being the minimum/recommended amount of power something has to provide to overcome the resistance in the headphones' wire to properly drive the headphones in question, but yesterday I was told that with speakers the opposite was true and that ohm ratings for speakers were different i wouldn't want to run, say, 8 ohm speakers on anything more than an 8 ohm amp/receiver.
My earliest issue was a lack of basic/easy-to-comprehend information regarding the amp itself. Not many people seem to have one, and the .pdfs I have gotten of the manual/assembly manuals are of course very technical and I'm not knowledgeable enough to comprehend them. Hifi engine lists the amp as giving 60w per channel but does not specify whether that is with two or four speakers connected.
Nowhere online lists the officially rated wattage for the 6000s and even Bang and Olufsen themselves could not tell me what their maximum noise(?) power is. The RL35s are rated of course at 35watts, with their long-term maximum power being 60watts. The 6000s only list their long-term maximum power as 103watts. I'm operating under the assumption that running them at their long-term maximum power is neither good for them or ideal for their performance.
There is a small amount of noise present on the setup as it is currently - the amp, with the 6000s connected to it. I am wondering if there is a way to isolate the source? My partner suggested creating a farraday cage, and while that might work to block external interference directly to the amp, it doesn't solve interference being picked up by the cables. The fisher has never shown any inclination that it is affected negatively by external local electronic signals and I have not observed any difference in the noise present even if all broadcasting-capable devices in the house have been turned off. If it is the cables picking up external signals, is there a cost-effective way to shield them?
I would love in the future to use the two pairs in conjunction on the same amp/receiver with an as-of-yet unpurchased/undecided woofer, but it would be lovely to be able to use the smaller and larger set together now. My partner posited two potential ways to facilitate this:
1: Connecting the 35ws to the left sides of the A and B pairs, and the higher but unknown-wattage pair to the right side and using the balance knob to skew the power so that less power is sent to the side with the 35ws. This would be a less than ideal way to work with the wattage difference because this is an old amp and it would screw up any stereo audio, assuming he's correct in the way the balancer works?
or 2: Using a potentiometer to control/meter the power being put into the 35s. My partner could easily create something to fit this purpose, and I trust my partner about it being able to control wattage to prevent overpowering the RL35s. However, I have no idea if and how it could affect quality of the sound after it passes through it.
FINALLY (I think): Obviously such an old amp will not be useful for surround sound as it's far too old, has no sub in, and is incapable of accepting anything more than two-channel input as far as I can tell.
This means I'll need a newer amp/receiver. This is another utterly overwhelming thing to look into, and everything I look at that can match the capabilities of my computer has a barrage of 'features' I'd never use that seem to just beef up price.
8-Channel High Definition Audio CODEC S1220
- High quality 120 dB SNR stereo playback output and 113 dB SNR recording
- SupremeFX Shielding Technology
- ESS® ES9023P
- Supports up to 32-Bit/192kHz playback
All I'd like is to be able to have my four B&Os and a woofer on a simple receiver, that I can PHYSICALLY connect my devices to. I'm unsure how precisely I should connect things past the receiver up. Would i have to connect my devices to the receiver and connect the receiver to the TV? Do TVs even HAVE HDMI/coax/fiber out for connecting to a receiver?
If you made it the end of this word wall, thanks for bearing with me! I'm sure at least some of my questions have easy answers.
Yesterday I contacted Crutchfield with questions regarding the ohm ratings for speakers and what they meant. Since my only prior experience has been with headphones, I am used to ohm ratings being the minimum/recommended amount of power something has to provide to overcome the resistance in the headphones' wire to properly drive the headphones in question, but yesterday I was told that with speakers the opposite was true and that ohm ratings for speakers were different i wouldn't want to run, say, 8 ohm speakers on anything more than an 8 ohm amp/receiver.
My earliest issue was a lack of basic/easy-to-comprehend information regarding the amp itself. Not many people seem to have one, and the .pdfs I have gotten of the manual/assembly manuals are of course very technical and I'm not knowledgeable enough to comprehend them. Hifi engine lists the amp as giving 60w per channel but does not specify whether that is with two or four speakers connected.
Nowhere online lists the officially rated wattage for the 6000s and even Bang and Olufsen themselves could not tell me what their maximum noise(?) power is. The RL35s are rated of course at 35watts, with their long-term maximum power being 60watts. The 6000s only list their long-term maximum power as 103watts. I'm operating under the assumption that running them at their long-term maximum power is neither good for them or ideal for their performance.
There is a small amount of noise present on the setup as it is currently - the amp, with the 6000s connected to it. I am wondering if there is a way to isolate the source? My partner suggested creating a farraday cage, and while that might work to block external interference directly to the amp, it doesn't solve interference being picked up by the cables. The fisher has never shown any inclination that it is affected negatively by external local electronic signals and I have not observed any difference in the noise present even if all broadcasting-capable devices in the house have been turned off. If it is the cables picking up external signals, is there a cost-effective way to shield them?
I would love in the future to use the two pairs in conjunction on the same amp/receiver with an as-of-yet unpurchased/undecided woofer, but it would be lovely to be able to use the smaller and larger set together now. My partner posited two potential ways to facilitate this:
1: Connecting the 35ws to the left sides of the A and B pairs, and the higher but unknown-wattage pair to the right side and using the balance knob to skew the power so that less power is sent to the side with the 35ws. This would be a less than ideal way to work with the wattage difference because this is an old amp and it would screw up any stereo audio, assuming he's correct in the way the balancer works?
or 2: Using a potentiometer to control/meter the power being put into the 35s. My partner could easily create something to fit this purpose, and I trust my partner about it being able to control wattage to prevent overpowering the RL35s. However, I have no idea if and how it could affect quality of the sound after it passes through it.
FINALLY (I think): Obviously such an old amp will not be useful for surround sound as it's far too old, has no sub in, and is incapable of accepting anything more than two-channel input as far as I can tell.
This means I'll need a newer amp/receiver. This is another utterly overwhelming thing to look into, and everything I look at that can match the capabilities of my computer has a barrage of 'features' I'd never use that seem to just beef up price.
8-Channel High Definition Audio CODEC S1220
- High quality 120 dB SNR stereo playback output and 113 dB SNR recording
- SupremeFX Shielding Technology
- ESS® ES9023P
- Supports up to 32-Bit/192kHz playback
All I'd like is to be able to have my four B&Os and a woofer on a simple receiver, that I can PHYSICALLY connect my devices to. I'm unsure how precisely I should connect things past the receiver up. Would i have to connect my devices to the receiver and connect the receiver to the TV? Do TVs even HAVE HDMI/coax/fiber out for connecting to a receiver?
If you made it the end of this word wall, thanks for bearing with me! I'm sure at least some of my questions have easy answers.
