Some wood based footers

Tuckers

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I was inspired to make this post because of the posts by @Ricky64 in this thread: Preamp shootout...Predictions on which will be the best?

to paraphrase, he had a skilled audiophile come over with a number of inexpensive tweaks that significantly improved his very Class A system. One of the was Myrtle Wood Blocks (they could be Cardas Golden Cuboid Myrtlewood blocks?). I've tried them, they can really do great things, especially with digital gear IMHO. But I also experiment with other non-audiophile products to great effect. I thought I would list them here, if anybody is interested in trying them. They are all considered tone woods.

I have literally boxes and boxes of high end footers, shelves, and materials I've used over the years. Two enduring favorites are Shun Mook Diamond resonators and recently the AV RoomService EVPs.

First off are Red Alder blocks. Red Alder is used by guitar designers, in particular for solid body electric instruments. It is considered a strong tone wood that livens up the sound. These can be found with a bit of searching, as this is the wood that is used often in Jenga Blocks. As Jenga blocks they are made to be very precisely flat and regular, which is great for footers. I bought a box of these, and I use them under small power supplies and digital equipment. Things that I normally wouldn't spend a lot of time or money on for footers. But they do add a bit of life and sparkle in the midrange and high end, also smoothing out digital glare and clearing up wooliness. I bought 60 blocks for less than $20, and they are great except for the logo, which is not on all sides. But I figure if I want to smarten them up I could sand off the burned image. Xtreme J - Wooden Stacking game

The second wood is Mpingo (or Blackwood) and Ebony is used in many audiophile products. It has a reputation in audio for bringing out the silkiness of string instruments, enhancing the wooden signature of many instrument, and adding a density of tone, especially to the treble where it can add density. Shun Mook products are famous for using Mpingo. The good news is that now Mpingo is actually being cultivated in Africa, so is being exploited less in parks etc. You can find Ebony and Mpingo sold in pen or knife handle blanks for very reasonable cost. All of the samples I've bought have turned out to be Mpingo even if listed as Ebony. I find these blanks to be a good size, as you get greater contact with the bottom of your equipment, and the larger mass of wood, influences the sound more. Though I bought some of them with the thought of cutting them into more cubic pieces, I find I like the the sonics using the larger pieces better. I find that the thinner ones work great in combination with other footers like the EVPs, With the rectangle on top of the EVP and contacting the equipment.

2Pcs Black Ebony Lumber Wood Timber Handle Plate for Musical Instruments - $9.99 (a pen blank)

Black Ebony Wood Lumber Blank DIY MAterial - $12.15 each (a knife handle blank)
 
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plasmod3

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Shun mook is mpingo not Gabon Ebony. Mpingo is a cheaper and more readily avaliable form
 

Tuckers

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Shun mook is mpingo not Gabon Ebony. Mpingo is a cheaper and more readily avaliable form
You are correct, my selective senility set in, I always get the two mixed up. I'll edit my post. Thanks!
 

Cellcbern

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I was inspired to make this post because of the posts by @Ricky64 in this thread: Preamp shootout...Predictions on which will be the best?

to paraphrase, he had a skilled audiophile come over with a number of inexpensive tweaks that significantly improved his very Class A system. One of the was Myrtle Wood Blocks (they could be Cardas Golden Cuboid Myrtlewood blocks?). I've tried them, they can really do great things, especially with digital gear IMHO. But I also experiment with other non-audiophile products to great effect. I thought I would list them here, if anybody is interested in trying them. They are all considered tone woods.

I have literally boxes and boxes of high end footers, shelves, and materials I've used over the years. Two enduring favorites are Shun Mook Diamond resonators and recently the AV RoomService EVPs.

First off are Red Alder blocks. Red Alder is used by guitar designers, in particular for solid body electric instruments. It is considered a strong tone wood that livens up the sound. These can be found with a bit of searching, as this is the wood that is used often in Jenga Blocks. As Jenga blocks they are made to be very precisely flat and regular, which is great for footers. I bought a box of these, and I use them under small power supplies and digital equipment. Things that I normally wouldn't spend a lot of time or money on for footers. But they do add a bit of life and sparkle in the midrange and high end, also smoothing out digital glare and clearing up wooliness. I bought 60 blocks for less than $20, and they are great except for the logo, which is not on all sides. But I figure if I want to smarten them up I could sand off the burned image. Xtreme J - Wooden Stacking game

The second wood is Mpingo (or Blackwood) and Ebony is used in many audiophile products. It has a reputation in audio for bringing out the silkiness of string instruments, enhancing the wooden signature of many instrument, and adding a density of tone, especially to the treble where it can add density. Shun Mook products are famous for using Mpingo. The good news is that now Mpingo is actually being cultivated in Africa, so is being exploited less in parks etc. You can find Ebony and Mpingo sold in pen or knife handle blanks for very reasonable cost. All of the samples I've bought have turned out to be Mpingo even if listed as Ebony. I find these blanks to be a good size, as you get greater contact with the bottom of your equipment, and the larger mass of wood, influences the sound more. Though I bought some of them with the thought of cutting them into more cubic pieces, I find I like the the sonics using the larger pieces better. I find that the thinner ones work great in combination with other footers like the EVPs, With the rectangle on top of the EVP and contacting the equipment.

2Pcs Black Ebony Lumber Wood Timber Handle Plate for Musical Instruments - $9.99 (a pen blank)

Black Ebony Wood Lumber Blank DIY MAterial - $12.15 each (a knife handle blank)
Easier to just order Yamamoto ebony cones/cups than trying to make them from blanks. Been using them for 20+ years:

FYI: https://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/yamamoto_pb_series_e.html

 
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Cellcbern

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Easier to just order Yamamoto ebony cones//cups than trying to make them from blanks:

FYI: https://www.tnt-audio.com/accessories/yamamoto_pb_series_e.html

In my main system I use Dalby Audio D7-LVE90SE Lignum Vitae wood feet (best sounding footers I've ever heard at any price) and the less expensive, similarly designed maple and rosewood ASI Top Line Feet, both in combination with Wellfloat isolation platforms. These two footers drain and dissipate internal component resonances and tune the component's resonant signature to be more sympathetic to music. Few footers do all three. I avoid feet that are made entirely of metal because to my ears they impart a slight hardness (metallic quality?) to the sound even if they are very effective at draining/dissipating resonances. Note that Dalby had an earlier model that was ebony instead of Lignum Vitae (see attached photo), but otherwise the same design. Highly recommended.
 

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Cellcbern

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In my main system I use Dalby Audio D7-LVE90SE Lignum Vitae wood feet (best sounding footers I've ever heard at any price) and the less expensive, similarly designed ASI Top Line Feet, both in combination with Wellfloat isolation platforms. These two footers drain and dissipate internal component resonances and tune the component's resonant signature to be more sympathetic to music. Few footers do all three. Note that Dalby had an earlier model that was ebony instead of Lignum Vitae (see attached photo), but otherwise the same design. Highly recommended.
The legendary Dalby vinyl stabilizer is available in ebony and lignum Vitae, and a number of the Dalby cables feature ebony or lignum vitae separators, collars, and connector covers. See also the extensive use of ebony, lignum vitae, and maple in the cost no object, designed from scratch "Akasu" turntable that audio Jedi Master Lee Dalby built for Audio Exotics. Note his description of the characteristic sound of the materials used in the turntable:

 
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Tuckers

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Cellcbern

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OMG, these are perfect and the prices are excellent! Which ones do you like best?
PB9/10 combo works well with most components. For larger/heavier components use PB20/21. Results are component specific as the reviews note. If you get too much bloom, decay, or warmth with a specific component, mixing an ebony cone with brass spike cup may help bring things into balance. In the photos above I have the Yamamoto PB-10 ebony cups under both the Dalby and ASI feet in place of the brass cups that came with them. In both cases this subtly improved tonality without losing any resolution.
 
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Tuckers

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PB9/10 combo works well with most components. For larger/heavier components use PB20/21. Results are component specific as the reviews note. If you get too much bloom, decay, or warmth with a specific component, mixing an ebony cone with brass spike cup may help bring things into balance. In the photos above I have the Yamamoto PB-10 ebony cups under both the Dalby and ASI feet in place of the brass cups that came with them. In both cases this subtly improved tonality without losing any resolution.
I really like the ebony spiked bottom ones and there are some linear rail ones as well that look interesting.
 

T Boost

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Shun mook is mpingo not Gabon Ebony. Mpingo is a cheaper and more readily avaliable form
The Shun Mook weight is ebony , but their discs are Mpingo. Shun Mook has done their best to try and blur the line between the 2 wood types. Mpingo is actually a rosewood that’s 100% restricted, hence the price. Gabon ebony costs slightly less (in North America) and isn’t restricted and can currently flow freely over international borders.
Gabon Ebony is quite good for footers, record weights and racks and I won’t profess to say which is “better”, but my money goes with the slightly more musical Mpingo. Of course “what’s best” is why we have these discussions, but I've never in my years seen Gabon ebony retail for more than Mpingo when sold in any real usable size.
 
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T Boost

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In my main system I use Dalby Audio D7-LVE90SE Lignum Vitae wood feet (best sounding footers I've ever heard at any price) and the less expensive, similarly designed maple and rosewood ASI Top Line Feet, both in combination with Wellfloat isolation platforms. These two footers drain and dissipate internal component resonances and tune the component's resonant signature to be more sympathetic to music. Few footers do all three. I avoid feet that are made entirely of metal because to my ears they impart a slight hardness (metallic quality?) to the sound even if they are very effective at draining/dissipating resonances. Note that Dalby had an earlier model that was ebony instead of Lignum Vitae (see attached photo), but otherwise the same design. Highly recommended.
These lignum vitae footers w/Obsidian balls are going with a Lignum vitae rack.
 

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Kingrex

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These are some pretty bad pictures.
I use corian and dimple the top, then drop a Drusey stone in the hole. Drusey is a lot like lava. Soft and porus. My preamp and phone stage seem to like that. About $2 a footer.

The digital also like the corian but it sits on a piece of fiberglass matt. The image of that has a Gaia footer next to it now that I am trying. Again, $2 or so a footer for my home made.

I tried a couple things under my amps. But they are very happy with a 1/4x20 bolt with phillips head supporting it off a 2" thick maple slab. The slab sits on 50 duro rubber feet.

I had $300 a piece feet under the pre a dealer brought by. My footer were 85% as good. That would have been $900 in footers for 1 piece. I have about $30 into 4 pieces.
 

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bonzo75

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Shun mook is mpingo not Gabon Ebony. Mpingo is a cheaper and more readily avaliable form

Shun Mook is very high quality restricted wood as T Boost said. Footers are Ebony and are awesome. The discs are mpingo and are used to tune sound and for acoustical treatment. I prefer the Dalby Lignum Vitae record weight to the SM but the SM is close. Never tried the Dalby footers so can’t say if they are better
 
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Cellcbern

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Shun Mook is very high quality restricted wood as T Boost said. Footers are Ebony and are awesome. The discs are mpingo and are used to tune sound and for acoustical treatment. I prefer the Dalby Lignum Vitae record weight to the SM but the SM is close. Never tried the Dalby footers so can’t say if they are better
I've heard both and prefer the Dalby, which are more neutral and improved the sound of every component I've heard them under. I've heard the Shun Mook sound spectacular under some components, but also too warm with unrealistically extended decay under others. Note the difference in design - with Shun Mook (1st photo) the component sits directly on the big ebony disc, while three small ceramic spheres embedded in the wood are the only points of contact between the Dalby feet and the component bottom. The ASI design is similar to Dalby only the points of contact are metal.
 

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bonzo75

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I've heard both and prefer the Dalby, which are more neutral and improved the sound of every component I've heard them under. I've heard the Shun Mook sound spectacular under some components, but also too warm with unrealistically extended decay under others. Note the difference in design - with Shun Mook (1st photo) the component sits directly on the big ebony disc, while three small ceramic spheres embedded in the wood are the only points of contact between the Dalby feet and the component bottom. The ASI design is similar to Dalby only the points of contact are metal.

there is another guy called Hi5harry who loves his shun Mook but also prefers the Dalby footers to them
 

Tuckers

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I have two sets of the Shun Mook Diamond resonators. One will never leave my dac :) The other I try in other places.

I recently got the larger Cardas Myrtlewood cuboids, and a 9 piece set of the smaller Ayre Myrtlewood (I think they are the same as the smaller Cardas cuboids). I do like the sound of Myrtlewood! Really lights up the soundstage, enhances highs and shimmer in my system. But the Cardas's effect is too strong! The upper mids kind of beam. I think the smaller ones do the same without going over the top.

but all in all, a really excellent way to tune those last nths of a degree of shimmer vs glare!
 

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