Ok, so what is it about watches?

Ron Party

WBF Founding Member
Apr 30, 2010
2,457
13
0
Oakland, CA
If you want something that's designed to "fit like a glove," and again assuming off-the-peg rather than bespoke, look to one of the Neapolitan houses, such as Isaia.
IMO one easily can do better for less $$$ than Brioni. Isaia - the higher end line - is my personal favorite.
 

DS-21

New Member
Aug 23, 2010
56
1
0
IMO one easily can do better for less $$$ than Brioni.

That is certainly true. Brionis have a distinctive cut and use great fabrics, but they don't have any more handwork or higher quality of work than, say, a Martin Greenfield suit from Brooklyn (Greenfield's probably best-known for making the Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece line) or a Samuelsohn suit from Montreal (Samuelsohn is probably best known for making most of Paul Stuart's suits). And their work is clearly inferior to Oxxford's. (And Oxxford's cuts have improved markedly of late, too.)

The exact same thing, incidentally, can be said about Isaia, except in the main Brioni's fabrics are a bit nicer and Isaia is a bunch cheaper. And, obviously, Isaia's riff on the Neapolitan cut is very different from the Roman cut.

The only Italian off-the-peg suits (that I know of) that are competitive with Oxxford's in terms of quality of work are Castangia's. (Note I'm not talking about the better Italian tailors, such as Caraceni or Rubinacci, only off-the-peg stuff.)

And by finding a competent tailor, one can easily do better for the same or less $$$. Of late I've been getting most of my suits made by Louis Everard in D.C. He's designed a cut for me that combines my favorite parts of the way my Castangia suits look and the way my old Chester Barrie suits feel and fit. And his prices are shockingly reasonable, at least compared to houses I consider as very similar in terms of quality of work (Huntsman on Savile Row, Knize in Vienna, Charvet in Paris, Rubinacci London House in Naples).

Isaia - the higher end line - is my personal favorite.

Isaia is back to multiple lines? I thought they discontinued their better line (Enrico Isaia) several years ago. Or do they have a recession-buster gluejob line now?
 

Bruce B

WBF Founding Member, Pro Audio Production Member
Apr 25, 2010
7,007
515
1,740
Snohomish, WA
www.pugetsoundstudios.com
O'kay....been perusing through the threads of watches and still have no idea of what I'm looking at and reading... Hopefully someone can point me in the correct direction...
The wife has taken a part-time job at a jewelry store, just to do something in her retirement. I wanted to get her a high-end watch to wear. She has "nice" watches (Bulova/Longines/Tag), but nothing really that stands out.
I want to get her a watch she can be proud of. There are no jewely stores around here so my best bet is Seattle/Bellevue. She wants something elegant but not flashy. No diamonds.... or very few. The only brands I'm aware of are Rolex (too cliche'), Cartier, Patek Piaget and Omega.... any other brands I should be looking at?
 

exupgh12

Well-Known Member
Jul 30, 2019
396
461
150
53
O'kay....been perusing through the threads of watches and still have no idea of what I'm looking at and reading... Hopefully someone can point me in the correct direction...
The wife has taken a part-time job at a jewelry store, just to do something in her retirement. I wanted to get her a high-end watch to wear. She has "nice" watches (Bulova/Longines/Tag), but nothing really that stands out.
I want to get her a watch she can be proud of. There are no jewely stores around here so my best bet is Seattle/Bellevue. She wants something elegant but not flashy. No diamonds.... or very few. The only brands I'm aware of are Rolex (too cliche'), Cartier, Patek Piaget and Omega.... any other brands I should be looking at?
Vacheron constantin, Cartier, Bulgari, Zenith, Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chopard L.U.C, Glashutte Original.
all the brands above are less cliche then Rolex.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bruce B

DasguteOhr

Well-Known Member
Sep 26, 2013
2,445
2,623
645
Germany
A good watch also needs a good story my opinon This one is one of 3 models that were on the moon.
Omega speedmaster moonwatch. Omega-Speedmaster-Moonwatch-1966.jpg
 
Last edited:

gleeds

Industry Expert
May 29, 2018
787
1,284
235
That is certainly true. Brionis have a distinctive cut and use great fabrics, but they don't have any more handwork or higher quality of work than, say, a Martin Greenfield suit from Brooklyn (Greenfield's probably best-known for making the Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece line) or a Samuelsohn suit from Montreal (Samuelsohn is probably best known for making most of Paul Stuart's suits). And their work is clearly inferior to Oxxford's. (And Oxxford's cuts have improved markedly of late, too.)

The exact same thing, incidentally, can be said about Isaia, except in the main Brioni's fabrics are a bit nicer and Isaia is a bunch cheaper. And, obviously, Isaia's riff on the Neapolitan cut is very different from the Roman cut.

The only Italian off-the-peg suits (that I know of) that are competitive with Oxxford's in terms of quality of work are Castangia's. (Note I'm not talking about the better Italian tailors, such as Caraceni or Rubinacci, only off-the-peg stuff.)

And by finding a competent tailor, one can easily do better for the same or less $$$. Of late I've been getting most of my suits made by Louis Everard in D.C. He's designed a cut for me that combines my favorite parts of the way my Castangia suits look and the way my old Chester Barrie suits feel and fit. And his prices are shockingly reasonable, at least compared to houses I consider as very similar in terms of quality of work (Huntsman on Savile Row, Knize in Vienna, Charvet in Paris, Rubinacci London House in Naples).



Isaia is back to multiple lines? I thought they discontinued their better line (Enrico Isaia) several years ago. Or do they have a recession-buster gluejob line now?
When I was working in DC, Everards was just down the street and I frequented the store often. What's fun are the twist Louis puts on classic clothing. The man has style! This was in 2006 so I am glad the dapper gentleman is still doing his thing in his charming atelier.
 

gleeds

Industry Expert
May 29, 2018
787
1,284
235
O'kay....been perusing through the threads of watches and still have no idea of what I'm looking at and reading... Hopefully someone can point me in the correct direction...
The wife has taken a part-time job at a jewelry store, just to do something in her retirement. I wanted to get her a high-end watch to wear. She has "nice" watches (Bulova/Longines/Tag), but nothing really that stands out.
I want to get her a watch she can be proud of. There are no jewely stores around here so my best bet is Seattle/Bellevue. She wants something elegant but not flashy. No diamonds.... or very few. The only brands I'm aware of are Rolex (too cliche'), Cartier, Patek Piaget and Omega.... any other brands I should be looking at?
Bruce, the Longine brand has a rich story and is making a comeback in affordable Swiss mechanical timepieces. Buying a watch is a totally personal affair, as it is one of few items a man can wear on a daily basis. All watches for the wrist differently and so comfort is a big deal. Right now I am wearing an Omega Seamaster in a 42mm size so it's on the large size, and heavy. That said, when I put it on my wrist it feels like it's not even there. The bottom line is try it on and make sure it feels a part of you.

Right now I am in the market for a GMT style that allows you to see the time in at least time zones. Reason: At Munich HE 2023 I called my wife at an ungodly hour in California because I miscalculated the time - she was not pleased! I love Longines new GMT and it is very affordable so take a look.

Bruce, knowing your background in the recording arts here is a fun one that may resonate with you from a new brand that is inspired upon analog VU meters. Nearly bought one when I was last in NYC!


Just know you can buy a watch for pleasure, function, investment or all three. Also, that prices are a bit like the high-end audio. There are terrific pieces starting at $2k and the sky's the limit. I would grab a Longine from your wife's shop and get started because having more then one to suit your mood or the occasion is a lot of fun! I

There are many watch sites. Hodinkee is a good place to start. Have fun!
 

Attachments

  • Sonomaster-Pointof VU.jpeg
    Sonomaster-Pointof VU.jpeg
    6.4 KB · Views: 4

Alrainbow

Well-Known Member
Dec 11, 2013
3,257
1,431
450
Of the many items I own or have owned watches are the one I do enjoy. I’m not a show off it’s totally not vanity for me. it’s pure pride of ownership for my self not to have others judge me on this is an absolute for me. but of course in business settings I would cover it possibly lol.
As for investment yes the better or even cheap ones can be a thing. I’ve sourced old cheap stuff to own
Why pride of ownership and memories.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gleeds

Bruce B

WBF Founding Member, Pro Audio Production Member
Apr 25, 2010
7,007
515
1,740
Snohomish, WA
www.pugetsoundstudios.com
Bruce, the Longine brand has a rich story and is making a comeback in affordable Swiss mechanical timepieces. Buying a watch is a totally personal affair, as it is one of few items a man can wear on a daily basis. All watches for the wrist differently and so comfort is a big deal. Right now I am wearing an Omega Seamaster in a 42mm size so it's on the large size, and heavy. That said, when I put it on my wrist it feels like it's not even there. The bottom line is try it on and make sure it feels a part of you.

Thanks.... but this is for the wife... They are what I would look for if I were to get one though!
 
  • Like
Reactions: gleeds

Bruce B

WBF Founding Member, Pro Audio Production Member
Apr 25, 2010
7,007
515
1,740
Snohomish, WA
www.pugetsoundstudios.com
Vacheron constantin, Cartier, Bulgari, Zenith, Lange & Söhne, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Chopard L.U.C, Glashutte Original.
all the brands above are less cliche then Rolex.

Thank-you so much everyone.... There are a lot of brands that were not on my radar. Gives me a lot of information to process before I lay out a big investment.... but she's worth it!
 

Bartolo

Well-Known Member
Jan 31, 2019
93
56
98
64
Thanks.... but this is for the wife... They are what I would look for if I were to get one though!
I've been very interested in watches for almost 20 years now. When I met my wife (16 yrs ago) she was wearing a plastic black Casio, and now over the years she's also become interested in mechanical wristwatches. So she has a very nice little collection herself now.

To me, the interest stems from the combination of the wristwatches as art, as marvels of engineering, as as industrial design. (I think of art and industrial design a little differently). There is a lot to understand historically and technically. And the 'fourth rail' if you will is that I've developed some very fun friendships with others who also really enjoy wristwatches. I'm part of a small, private, group of enthusiasts here in my area, composed probably 70/30 men/women, who get together every few months to meet up, have some food and beverages, talk watches, bring pieces to show each other, and often we have industry pro's in to speak to/with us. And a hard and fast rule of the group is "no jerks." Everyone truly is friendly and nice and non-judgmental, whether the collection is worth $millions or they own one Rolex Explorer. It's all about the shared interests. As we all know, enthusiasts of luxury goods aren't all 'no jerks.'

Depending on your budget and your wife's tastes (does she want a very 'jewelry' looking watch? or something more sporty/utilitarian looking?) I'd be happy to make recommendations.
 

Bartolo

Well-Known Member
Jan 31, 2019
93
56
98
64
Also, many popular wristwatches in late 2023 simply cannot be purchased by walking into a jewelry store / brand boutique. Many are quite scarce, on "waiting lists," etc. So it all depends on what you want, what you're willing to pay, and whether you'd be OK buying from a well-vetted "gray market" dealer. Nothing is simple!
 
  • Like
Reactions: christoph

Bruce B

WBF Founding Member, Pro Audio Production Member
Apr 25, 2010
7,007
515
1,740
Snohomish, WA
www.pugetsoundstudios.com
I've been very interested in watches for almost 20 years now. When I met my wife (16 yrs ago) she was wearing a plastic black Casio, and now over the years she's also become interested in mechanical wristwatches. So she has a very nice little collection herself now.

Depending on your budget and your wife's tastes (does she want a very 'jewelry' looking watch? or something more sporty/utilitarian looking?) I'd be happy to make recommendations.

Indeed..... I know her tastes and she isn't looking for something that stands out and draws attention to itself. Something like "understated elegance" would be my first reaction. I've admired watches over the years from afar and would always look at the watches worn by some industry folk. I would search out Steve Rochlin at some of the shows because he would always have the latest/greatest. Me, I'm looking for a CLK DTM.... !
 

Bartolo

Well-Known Member
Jan 31, 2019
93
56
98
64
Indeed..... I know her tastes and she isn't looking for something that stands out and draws attention to itself. Something like "understated elegance" would be my first reaction. I've admired watches over the years from afar and would always look at the watches worn by some industry folk. I would search out Steve Rochlin at some of the shows because he would always have the latest/greatest. Me, I'm looking for a CLK DTM.... !
My wife goes for "understated elegance." It now depends on your budget. Mechanical vs. Quartz.
 

Bartolo

Well-Known Member
Jan 31, 2019
93
56
98
64
My wife goes for "understated elegance." It now depends on your budget. Mechanical vs. Quartz.
Cartier x 2.jpeg

Here's she's wearing a Cartier Santos. It's mechanical, stainless steel, and comes with the metal bracelet and a leather strap. Swapping out the bracelet for the strap is easy and Cartier have straps in many different colors and materials. MSRP is $7050.00 Readily available directly from Cartier; no waitlist etc. And IMHO Cartier is a fabulous luxury brand.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bruce B

Sablon Audio

Industry Expert, VIP Donor
May 22, 2015
1,619
1,490
553
Another ‘sleeper’ option might be the Girard Perregaux Laureato, which is available in 34mm and 38mm sizes. This one is worth seeing in the flesh, as the 904L grade stainless steel has a beautiful lustre and feel. The brand has a long history and I understand they are working on revamping their profile to close the gap to the ‘Holy Trinity’.
 

Gregm

Well-Known Member
Mar 14, 2019
532
383
155
France
O'kay....been perusing through the threads of watches and still have no idea of what I'm looking at and reading... Hopefully someone can point me in the correct direction...
The wife has taken a part-time job at a jewelry store, just to do something in her retirement. I wanted to get her a high-end watch to wear. She has "nice" watches (Bulova/Longines/Tag), but nothing really that stands out.
I want to get her a watch she can be proud of. There are no jewely stores around here so my best bet is Seattle/Bellevue. She wants something elegant but not flashy. No diamonds.... or very few. The only brands I'm aware of are Rolex (too cliche'), Cartier, Patek Piaget and Omega.... any other brands I should be looking at?
As above, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is the real deal for a lady. Failing that, a Cartier Tank. Not flashy, elegant and iconic.
If not, a Patek (expensive).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bruce B

About us

  • What’s Best Forum is THE forum for high end audio, product reviews, advice and sharing experiences on the best of everything else. This is THE place where audiophiles and audio companies discuss vintage, contemporary and new audio products, music servers, music streamers, computer audio, digital-to-analog converters, turntables, phono stages, cartridges, reel-to-reel tape machines, speakers, headphones and tube and solid-state amplification. Founded in 2010 What’s Best Forum invites intelligent and courteous people of all interests and backgrounds to describe and discuss the best of everything. From beginners to life-long hobbyists to industry professionals, we enjoy learning about new things and meeting new people, and participating in spirited debates.

Quick Navigation

User Menu

Steve Williams
Site Founder | Site Owner | Administrator
Ron Resnick
Site Co-Owner | Administrator
Julian (The Fixer)
Website Build | Marketing Managersing