BAT VK.75 first timer

MCLSOUND

New Member
Mar 26, 2011
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Hi guys
I can pick up one local for a reasonable price.
Anyone tried one???

I also was wondering what tubes make the smoother sound from experience. ..
It is not the SE as they are twice the price.
I was going to look for a second one for mono block in the future.
Can anyone weigh in on this.
Thanks
 
Hi MCLSOUND,

I still own VK150s which are really just a pair of Bridge Paralleled 75s.

As far as the output tubes go, there's really no alternative to the Ulyanovs. However you can tube roll the other tubes. In my experience it is not really audibly practical to roll the bank of driver tubes. Roll the input tubes instead. The smoothest sounding 6sn7s I tried with them were Brimars. However I felt that while smooth they took away a lot of the bite that makes music sound and feel more real. I liked Sylvanias and Tungsol GTBs most.

Happy hunting!
 
Hi, i recently owned a VK 200...then went to a VK 60...then went to a VK 75SE then went to VK150SE's. (then moved to austin and had to reduce my heat signature). The VK75 is a VK60 with a bit better power supply and better auto bias circuit (maybe a few more things). I actually liked the VK60 best. The 6sn7 input tubes impart a sweetness that the 75SE can't quite replicate. The 75SE with it's 6h30 input stage has more grunt, is more extended, a bit quieter...all great things. That said...you have so many choices on the 6sn7 to tube roll...virtually none on the 6h30.

The 75 has got to be a great amp...what are your speakers and room size? Matching is important here...however..this amp won't sound like 75 watts...it's a pretty high current 75....
 
Hi guys and thanks
I just brought homt the vk75 and its snowing so I will let it warm to room temperature before I insert the tubes.
I will look into some tubes later...
The main balanced tube section is what number out of 8??
Lots to learn..
Currently have PMC IB2 but am building my 4th prototype and wont be done before Xmas. ..
I use ATC mids and want to see if the BAT works for me...if so I will find a second vk75 and bridge also..
 
congrats !! all of the tubes need to be matched and balanced given this is a fully differential amp. The main two 6sn7's (the front two tubes) are the most crucial. If you are to tube roll these two make the most difference on the sound plus need to be highly matched (both the internal sides of the tube along with each tube on the left and right side). Good luck...let us know what you think on your new amp!
 
Ok
Thanks for sharing
I have it all hooked up and warming
Raysonic CD.128
Classe CP.60
PMC IB2
I will let you know my thoughts
 
If I use only balanced cables what tubes do I roll

Cabling doesn't really dictate what tubes. This amp does seem to run best with a balanced input-so seems like your balanced cables mean you're using with balanced source or preamp. I posted above on some tips on tube rolling...however adding to that the front 2 6sn7's seem to have the biggest effect on the sound. These should be your 2 best tubes...matched and balanced triodes are a must.

If you just want some new tubes to see what you're getting into...try any of the online tube sellers...this is just one suggestion: www.thetubestore.com the electroharmonix or tung-sol 6sn7's are nice choice to start and better than the stock Sovtek tubes. Also, this 63CC-B can fail blow the fuse below the tube...so I'd have a few spares...or order a new set of 4 and keep your older tubes as spares. Radio Shack will have the fuses...make sure you use the same value...
 
I agree, have spare 6c33c tubes and spare fuses. If you are listening at low volume sometimes you might not actually know one has gone out. Check the green LEDs under the top grill from time to time to see. The tubes still glow so only way to check is to listen and look. I also do not recommend trying to change the fuses without an extra pair of helping hands. Don't ask me how I know. :D
 
the very front two :)

Boy 7 years went by quick. I found this pic of my old place online.

2250DSC_0018.jpg
 
Very nice jack
So I tube roll the front 2 only?
There are some 1950 Sylvania black plates locally.
That means just need a pair.
There are some northern electric also (not cheap)...
Really trying to mellow down my ATC mids and my SS-7100 tweeters
 
Very nice jack
So I tube roll the front 2 only?
There are some 1950 Sylvania black plates locally.
That means just need a pair.
There are some northern electric also (not cheap)...
Really trying to mellow down my ATC mids and my SS-7100 tweeters

Sure...but make sure you can get tight matching on the triodes and the tubes...since this is in a balanced circuit...matching is important...
 
Gosh I feel silly
What is meant by the triodes and the tubes..
Or do you mean that a single tube has different sections internally
 
Gosh I feel silly
What is meant by the triodes and the tubes..
Or do you mean that a single tube has different sections internally

exactly...so in the bat amp...if the sections aren't closely matched...it doesn't amplify the balanced signal in the optimal way.
 
what he said :)

Pretty hard to do with a pair of NOS tubes, much harder with a quad when the time comes to bridge. Part of the reason I went back to single ended :D
 
For me I get the best results using the current reissue Tung Sol 6SN7 tube, matched tubes should be readily available, and at a reasonable price. I also strongly suggest you get matched pairs of the 6C33-B tube for spares, it will come to point where the tubes will drift apart causing the fuse below to blow. The tubes may still be fine, all you need to do is find another tube that matches either of them. Here the closer the pairs are matched the better the amp will sound.

A more important aspect of this amp to consider may be the age of your amp, and to get the most out of this amp would require you to change all the electrolytic caps and the four .22uf oil caps. If you are good with a soldering gun and own a good desoldering gun, the job is not too difficult. There are currently new electrolytic caps that are just coming available that are simply amazing. If the four Jensen .22uf oil caps don't have the epoxy ends they usually start to fail or their performance starts to drop around the 5-7 year mark. The Jensen caps used are the entry level aluminum foil aluminum tube ones, to greatly improve performance, durability and sound signature, the copper foil copper tube 1000V cap from Jensen is my favorite capacitor.

Their are many aspects of this amp that one needs to know to simply operate it and to greatly improve it's performance and reliability, definitely not a plug and play unit, but once you know it's idiosyncrasies you come to realize how great this product truly is, a product truly ahead of its time.
 
For me I get the best results using the current reissue Tung Sol 6SN7 tube, matched tubes should be readily available, and at a reasonable price. I also strongly suggest you get matched pairs of the 6C33-B tube for spares, it will come to point where the tubes will drift apart causing the fuse below to blow. The tubes may still be fine, all you need to do is find another tube that matches either of them. Here the closer the pairs are matched the better the amp will sound.

A more important aspect of this amp to consider may be the age of your amp, and to get the most out of this amp would require you to change all the electrolytic caps and the four .22uf oil caps. If you are good with a soldering gun and own a good desoldering gun, the job is not too difficult. There are currently new electrolytic caps that are just coming available that are simply amazing. If the four Jensen .22uf oil caps don't have the epoxy ends they usually start to fail or their performance starts to drop around the 5-7 year mark. The Jensen caps used are the entry level aluminum foil aluminum tube ones, to greatly improve performance, durability and sound signature, the copper foil copper tube 1000V cap from Jensen is my favorite capacitor.

Their are many aspects of this amp that one needs to know to simply operate it and to greatly improve it's performance and reliability, definitely not a plug and play unit, but once you know it's idiosyncrasies you come to realize how great this product truly is, a product truly ahead of its time.

Are you talking about the regular 75 or the 75SE?
 

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