Amplifier for speakers
- Thread starter Ikehgl
- Start date
G'day mate,
Good job on the Theos. Those specs are rated as power handling- input power. So it means this is the safe range that the Theos will handle, should you choose an amplifier anywhere between this power output range.
The most important thing to consider is not just power but high current and stable voltage. Electrostats have a notorious impedence swing, they're referred to as reactive loads. As the frequency changes so does the impedence and this can vary from high as 22 Ohms and as low as 0.7 Ohms. That's less than 1 Ohm and this swing takes place in a blink of eye!
This varying reactive load, is what causes many so called power amplifiers to crap themselves. They just don't have the required high current nor stable voltage to handle difficult loads, which is typical of Stats. Hence, power alone is not everything, in fact it doesn't mean anything!
I've used several so called high powered amplifiers to drive Maggie's, Quad ESL's and Apogee's, (without mentioning brand names) most of them simply shut down. They run out of puff and they're more suited to benign loads or much higher efficiency speakers, like Horns.
So the question is, how do you know what type of current or measurable range of current capacity the amplifier can produce? Well, two things you could look for:
1. Check if current values are stated in the specs, most high-end gear will indicate the specs as amps. This is a good indication that it can produce high current and hold steady voltage. Ideal for driving Stats effectively.
2. The power output ratings, sated as RMS power output into 8 Ohms, then doubles at 4 Ohms and triples at 2 Ohms. Ex. 50w/ch x 8 Ohms, 100w/ch x 4 Ohms, and 200w/ch x 2 Ohms. This basically means that the amplifier is stable all the way down to 2 Ohms.
There are other brands that will have specs at 1 Ohm, these are quite rare specs but again ideal for handling such impedence swings found in Stats.
If you're planning on getting a 20w integrated, just make sure it can handle down to 2 Ohms or at least doubles in power at 4 Ohms or below. If these specs aren't stated then it means this amp will blow up like the 4th of July trying to drive stats. It simply won't work.
Also look out for Class A or Class AB power ratings, as this is a very good indication of the amplifier's output stage.
Cheers and all the best,
RJ
Good job on the Theos. Those specs are rated as power handling- input power. So it means this is the safe range that the Theos will handle, should you choose an amplifier anywhere between this power output range.
The most important thing to consider is not just power but high current and stable voltage. Electrostats have a notorious impedence swing, they're referred to as reactive loads. As the frequency changes so does the impedence and this can vary from high as 22 Ohms and as low as 0.7 Ohms. That's less than 1 Ohm and this swing takes place in a blink of eye!
This varying reactive load, is what causes many so called power amplifiers to crap themselves. They just don't have the required high current nor stable voltage to handle difficult loads, which is typical of Stats. Hence, power alone is not everything, in fact it doesn't mean anything!
I've used several so called high powered amplifiers to drive Maggie's, Quad ESL's and Apogee's, (without mentioning brand names) most of them simply shut down. They run out of puff and they're more suited to benign loads or much higher efficiency speakers, like Horns.
So the question is, how do you know what type of current or measurable range of current capacity the amplifier can produce? Well, two things you could look for:
1. Check if current values are stated in the specs, most high-end gear will indicate the specs as amps. This is a good indication that it can produce high current and hold steady voltage. Ideal for driving Stats effectively.
2. The power output ratings, sated as RMS power output into 8 Ohms, then doubles at 4 Ohms and triples at 2 Ohms. Ex. 50w/ch x 8 Ohms, 100w/ch x 4 Ohms, and 200w/ch x 2 Ohms. This basically means that the amplifier is stable all the way down to 2 Ohms.
There are other brands that will have specs at 1 Ohm, these are quite rare specs but again ideal for handling such impedence swings found in Stats.
If you're planning on getting a 20w integrated, just make sure it can handle down to 2 Ohms or at least doubles in power at 4 Ohms or below. If these specs aren't stated then it means this amp will blow up like the 4th of July trying to drive stats. It simply won't work.
Also look out for Class A or Class AB power ratings, as this is a very good indication of the amplifier's output stage.
Cheers and all the best,
RJ
Maybe if it was a Destination Audio 20w Class A integrated... or Audio Note Overture 32w Class tube designs or the Ongaku amps pure Class A, now that would be sweet as! Then again not sure what the budget is here...
I remember when I had the Ethos speakers, even though they had built-in amps to drive the bass drivers, they still required some humpty to get those panels under grip. I used a few: McIntosh mc275, Jas Audio 300B, Quad II 80 monoblocks rated at 80w each, and a CJ Classic 60se and 62se. They were all great but limited, certain dynamics sounded compressed or would break up, except for the CJ amplifiers. A superb match!
When I got the more powerful monoblocks, of course bigger trannies, stiffer power supplies and a whole lot more bias in Class A, the Ethos really opened up! So did the Montis and Summit-X, all benefited by larger power supplies in the amplifiers.
Attn: to the OP
If you're really keen on 20w integrated amps, just keep these things in mind:
1. Current capacity and stable voltage
2. Power supplies in the output stage
3. Ability to handle difficult loads down to 2 Ohms.
Then you're all set!
Cheers, RJ
I remember when I had the Ethos speakers, even though they had built-in amps to drive the bass drivers, they still required some humpty to get those panels under grip. I used a few: McIntosh mc275, Jas Audio 300B, Quad II 80 monoblocks rated at 80w each, and a CJ Classic 60se and 62se. They were all great but limited, certain dynamics sounded compressed or would break up, except for the CJ amplifiers. A superb match!
When I got the more powerful monoblocks, of course bigger trannies, stiffer power supplies and a whole lot more bias in Class A, the Ethos really opened up! So did the Montis and Summit-X, all benefited by larger power supplies in the amplifiers.
Attn: to the OP
If you're really keen on 20w integrated amps, just keep these things in mind:
1. Current capacity and stable voltage
2. Power supplies in the output stage
3. Ability to handle difficult loads down to 2 Ohms.
Then you're all set!
Cheers, RJ
On another note: maybe check with the dealer from where you bought the Theos from... they should be able to recommend a suitable amplifier, that's provided you bought from a dealer.
Dealers who represent ML speakers know their gear well, and will be able to offer a wider selection based on your budget. Usually when you ask us on a forum which amp to buy, you ll get responses from amps costing a grand to 100grand! So it's not easy to guage.
Cheers, RJ
Dealers who represent ML speakers know their gear well, and will be able to offer a wider selection based on your budget. Usually when you ask us on a forum which amp to buy, you ll get responses from amps costing a grand to 100grand! So it's not easy to guage.
Cheers, RJ
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