Audiophile Fuses

[Muser]

For starters, I have not tried the audiophile fuses. Do they make a difference or don't? I don't know.

However, I tried some anti-vibration magic paint (antivibrationmagic.ca) on my stock fuses - I purchased it to try on the circuit board of a power supply for a DIY DAC - and was stunned to hear a difference and in my system for the better. The paint uses a dense element, said to be irridium, that damps vibrations. The difference was positive and definitely worth the cost ~ US$95.

A warning, once the bottle is open, you'll need a good way to seal the bottle as my bottle dried out, over a few months. I tried Saran Wrap under the bottle cap, but that didn't work. So, if you try it, look for an appropriately sized cork or the like if you want to keep the stuff from drying out.

 

[spazmatron]

For starters, I have not tried the audiophile fuses. Do they make a difference or don't? I don't know.

However, I tried some anti-vibration magic paint (antivibrationmagic.ca) on my stock fuses - I purchased it to try on the circuit board of a power supply for a DIY DAC - and was stunned to hear a difference and in my system for the better. The paint uses a dense element, said to be irridium, that damps vibrations. The difference was positive and definitely worth the cost ~ US$95.

A warning, once the bottle is open, you'll need a good way to seal the bottle as my bottle dried out, over a few months. I tried Saran Wrap under the bottle cap, but that didn't work. So, if you try it, look for an appropriately sized cork or the like if you want to keep the stuff from drying out.

or blue tac for $1 lol

 

[zztop7]

Warning If you will NOT drink it, do NOT breath it

~ US$95. A warning, once the bottle is open, you'll need a good way to seal the bottle as my bottle dried out, over a few months. I tried Saran Wrap under the bottle cap, but that didn't work. So, if you try it, look for an appropriately sized cork or the like if you want to keep the stuff from drying out.

Warning If you will NOT drink it, do NOT breath it.
So now that the proper warning is in place, if you smell the contents, you might recognize the solvent; possibly acetone, etc. The bottle could be topped up with the solvent to extend the life. You can also put the bottle in a very sealed container & freeze; might crack thus the very sealed outer container is a good safety. Acetone will not freeze in a household freezer; minus 139 degrees Fahrenheit.
zz.

 

[Jazzhead]

I went down the audiophile fuse path a few years ago and was not impressed with anything I tried back then. I can't remember everything I tried but I do remember trying Hi-Fi tuning fuses on my Spectral amps and ended up going back to the stock fuses. However, based on some encouraging reports with Synergistic Research Black fuses, I recently bought one to try on my VTL 7.5III preamp. Bottom, line, I'm very glad I bought it with a money back guaranty. It is going back today. I really wanted to like it but it was just not impressive at all. Sonically, I found a total disconnect between a more distant midrange and a poorly defined, softer top end, in addition to nothing special bass. I know fuses can be position sensitive so I flipped the position. Nope. Nada. I even flipped my position-tried listening while standing on my head. Nope- nothing there either. (Referring to head position, not head content!). Ok seriously, I really tried to give these the benefit of the doubt, but each time I went back to the stock fuse, the sound was immediately superior in every way. I have no idea what Luke uses as his stock in the VTL preamp- it appears to be a ceramic fuse as I cannot see the wire. Bottom line- the SR Blacks were hardly a new mountain top for me, rather, a sea of sludge.

I would like to make the following comments/suggestions if I may. First although my experience was negative, this should not encourage others from trying. These are inexpensive investments and if there is a money back guaranty, what do you have to lose? Perhaps you will be surprised. Second, you have to give some companies credit for trying to make equipment that presumes they have listened to a lot of fuses before deciding what to use as factory stock. There may a reason why their stock fuse was chosen. I know Bea Lam listens to everything and she has damn good ears. It would not surprise me that her fuses were chosen for a reason. I suspect this is also true at other companies as well. Its hard for me to imagine that Warren Gehl at ARC or Keith Johnson just use any old fuse in their gear. Again, that should not stop you from trying experimenting yourself. Finally, if you are dead certain that what you are hearing is a mindfk improvement, I encourage you to have a friend swap fuses blindly in your gear and see if you can pick out the mindfk fuse every time. We are all slaves to self-deception. This could be a very informative and easy experiment to do, so why not try it?

How long did you have the fuses in ? I found they take a few days to bed in . I have not tried the blacks , but the HiFi Supreme and Furutech work for me . Happy Listening

 

[marty]

How long did you have the fuses in ? I found they take a few days to bed in . I have not tried the blacks , but the HiFi Supreme and Furutech work for me . Happy Listening

Probably 12 hours. I might try longer based on your update. Thanks

 

[wstam]

Probably 12 hours. I might try longer based on your update. Thanks

Those Black fuse users on the audiogon forum claimed >70 (some said 100) hours needed for Black burn-in. My SR Red fuses needed more than 50 hours to sound good. So you will propably need longer time before you can assess them (not saying that they will definitely be good on your system).

 

[Audiophile Bill]

Probably 12 hours. I might try longer based on your update. Thanks

Hi Marty,

I find it more interesting that you are noticing a substantial change to the system even if not to your liking - it is amazing how a fuse can do this.

 

[Argonaut]

Hi Marty,

I find it more interesting that you are noticing a substantial change to the system even if not to your liking - it is amazing how a fuse can do this.

Bill....I have just inserted the new Black into the REF10 and moved the Reds to the REF250SE's with only a couple of hours on the clock I would say the system sounds Impressivly Flawed ATM ! And certainly requires a good few more hours as yet.

 

[ack]

I am selling all of my Hi-Fi Tuning Supremes: 5A, 1A, .5A; PM me if interested. They all bloat the bass in some sort of phasey way; there are similar effects elsewhere in the spectrum. I say this in all honesty, and I consider them worthless. I have since shorted and bypassed all of my fuses, for incredible and tight sound. I really feel like opening one up to see what's in there that has such an effect...

 

[Audiophile Bill]

Bill....I have just inserted the new Black into the REF10 and moved the Reds to the REF250SE's with only a couple of hours on the clock I would say the system sounds Impressivly Flawed ATM ! And certainly requires a good few more hours as yet.

Oh dear, Roger. Any update?

 

[Argonaut]

Oh dear, Roger. Any update?

I made that sound much worse than in reality Bill, Perhaps Highly impressive tho exhibiting a few minor flaws cold out of the box might have been better! Curiously I prefered the black in one particular orientation when squeaky new to the REF10( As per my initial post ) however with a few hours on the clock I reversed orientation and significantly prefer it, funny old game this fuse lark.

 

[Audiophile Bill]

I made that sound much worse than in reality Bill, Perhaps Highly impressive tho exhibiting a few minor flaws cold out of the box might have been better! Curiously I prefered the black in one particular orientation when squeaky new to the REF10( As per my initial post ) however with a few hours on the clock I reversed orientation and significantly prefer it, funny old game this fuse lark.

How many hours do you think you have on it now? Is it superior to red or just different? Cheers.

 

[Argonaut]

How many hours do you think you have on it now? Is it superior to red or just different? Cheers.

I would guesstimate around 16hours now....Hmmmm not an easy query on which I can offer a definitive as yet Bill, my REF10 and REF250se's have very few hours on the clock so to complicate matters the electronics are also in their own state of flux ATM.

However, I would say that upon initial substitution I did perceive an evolution across the spectrum as a whole, that I anticipate will develop further in time.

I would recommend that we're you to have identified an prime location fuse within your system, perhaps Pre ? then go for it, life is short enough as it is!

 

[stehno]

Probably 12 hours. I might try longer based on your update. Thanks

Actually, the fuses should be fully burned-in right around 52 - 54 hours of continuous use. Should be regardless of brand or type. Give or take an extra hour or so for different materials, construction, etc.

Until full burn-in, you probably shouldn't hear any differences. Even then, since replacing a single fuse may or may not generate an audible improvement, you should replace all fuses at the same time. This way you stand the greatest chance of hearing any gains.

And if you wanted the greatest gains possible, make sure the replacement fuses are cryogenically treated.

 

[CKKeung]

I made that sound much worse than in reality Bill, Perhaps Highly impressive tho exhibiting a few minor flaws cold out of the box might have been better! Curiously I prefered the black in one particular orientation when squeaky new to the REF10( As per my initial post ) however with a few hours on the clock I reversed orientation and significantly prefer it, funny old game this fuse lark.

The SR Black fuse may be the most expensive audiophile fuse in the market currently but I think its performance is the best and most all-rounded one. Friends and I group-purchased many of it!


One point to note : It has significant directionality. One direction is obviously better the other. Must test both directions on initial installation. The diff is easily audible.

 

[Argonaut]

Just so CK, In the one orientation I find the SR's exhibit a typical +Clarity/+Detail/-Soundstage, with a touch leaner presentation overall, altho with an perceivably lower noise floor.

In the other +Soundstage/+Dimensionality/+Weight/Authority/ a Tad diffuse of fine ambient cues and micro detail, that may be a product of a slight increase in noise floor.

All my own subjectivism of course.

For my part I am currently running Pre and Power in the standard orientation of S into the fuse holder R into the chassis.

 

[Apogeelover]

The best fuse is no fuse.I replaced the fuses and mains switches on my amps with thermal magnetic circuit breaker mains switches.
Take a look on the RS Components website for ETA branded said switches , these are available in ratings from 1 amp upwards;not cheap but solve the fuse problem.

 

[ack]

The best fuse is no fuse.I replaced the fuses and mains switches on my amps with thermal circuit breaker mains switches.Problem solved!

I've bypassed all my fuses as well - fuses and high end audio is really a contradiction in terms.

 

[Lissnr]

I agree that fuses are a weak link in the big scheme of things. My main equipment builder ( the late great Paul Weitzel) built all his equipment with circuit breakers instead of fuses ( they are also used as the 'on/off' switch) so my Pre-amp ( The "Dude") and amp(s) (GT 200 monos) are equipped as such. The Synergistic Research Black Fuses I use are for my Lampizator gear ( Dac, TranspOrt, and Komputer) and I may also do my Audio Research Phono Stage (PH3SE). Add dedicated lines and you're further on your way to cleaner/ faster/ uninterrupted power... You WILL notice the [accrued] increase in dynamics and overall performance...

 

[Blue58]

I agree that fuses are a weak link in the big scheme of things. My main equipment builder ( the late great Paul Weitzel) built all his equipment with circuit breakers instead of fuses ( they are also used as the 'on/off' switch) so my Pre-amp ( The "Dude") and amp(s) (GT 200 monos) are equipped as such. The Synergistic Research Black Fuses I use are for my Lampizator gear ( Dac, TranspOrt, and Komputer) and I may also do my Audio Research Phono Stage (PH3SE). Add dedicated lines and you're further on your way to cleaner/ faster/ uninterrupted power... You WILL notice the [accrued] increase in dynamics and overall performance...

About to bite the SR fuse Apple after living with AMR fuses for a few years. Is there a consensus as to the 'correct' direction of the black fuses. Ie. Is there a +ve and a -ve end. Common sense would dictate that the direction of lettering on the fuse would indicate +>- but what is the reality? I read somewhere that the R end was inserted first in one case indicating a reversal of the writing as the 'bottom' of a fuse holder is, or should be +ve.
You may tell me to try each way and listen but frankly the amps are 20kg each and have internal fuses so it is a pain to disconnect, remove panels, flip etc.
Anything that would make my life easier would be gratefully received.
Thanks guys
Blue58