Room Modes

DonH50

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Jun 22, 2010
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Room interactions are often discussed as one of the primary reasons similar (or even dissimilar) systems sound different. If you read the “Reflections and DACs” thread you saw how reflections and standing waves can interact along a transmission line. As it happens, sound waves in a room also interact, affecting the amplitude of sound you hear at different frequencies. Sound waves from more than one source (for example, two speakers) will meet and interact. Sometimes they add, sometimes they subtract (cancel), but there will be interactions in any room. “Ah, but what about absorption?” you might ask. Ah, but remember I said “more than one source”. If I put two speakers in a perfect anechoic chamber, absorbing all sound when it interacts with any surface (walls, floor, ceiling), there are still those two sources to consider. If I sit between them, waves from one interact with waves from the other, despite having no other reflections to contend with. See Figure 1; sound waves from the two speakers spread out and interact at the listener’s location.

Fig1..JPG
Figure 1. Sound wave interaction.​

Depending upon their phase, the sound waves may add constructively, making the sound louder, or destructively, sounding quieter. The phase depends upon the source, naturally, but also the frequency and distance from the speakers. Take a look at Figure 2, showing three different frequencies (fo, 2fo, and 5.9fo). The vertical axis shows amplitude and the horizontal axis distance. All is relative for this example.


Fig2..JPG
Figure 2. Amplitude vs. distance for three frequencies.​

All three waves are launched at the same instant and in phase (this is not generally true). Now, there are several interesting observations we can make from this picture:

At an arbitrary distance, the sound waves do not line up perfectly. This is the way the world works and is not really important, so long as the phase relationship is maintained. That is, if your components (from source through speakers) alter the phase/frequency relationship, then what you hear may be different from what was originally recorded. However, even if that is not true, chances are you won’t notice… As an aside, speakers typically dominate the phase picture, and speakers with excellent pulse (or impulse) characteristics do best at maintaining phase relationships across all frequencies (linear phase, constant group delay, to be technical). I do like my Magnepans!

As frequency increases, the peaks and valleys get closer. At 20 Hz there are over 56 feet from peak to peak; at 20 kHz the distance from peak to peak is less than an inch. At low frequencies, the waves are longer than most rooms and room modes dominate. At high frequencies, most any little surface will cause reflections, breaking up the waves so that by the time they reach you the reflections are pretty random with respect to the source and don’t really bother us. In between, the same sound from two different sources interacts as a function of frequency (actually wavelength, velocity of sound/frequency) and distance. If we are sitting such that two peaks interact, the sound will be louder; if a positive peak and negative peak interact they will cancel and no sound is heard at that frequency. While perfect cancellation in the real world is rare, deep nulls and large peaks do occur. The effect looks like the teeth in a comb, and thus the name “comb filter effects”. Unfortunately, comb filter effects tend to be worst right through the middle of the audio band, right where we hear best. When you move your head an inch, and the sound changes by a mile, that’s almost always what is causing the effect. The good news is that sound absorbers and diffusers can go a long way toward reducing comb filter effects, and proper speaker positioning minimizes interactions from the desired direct sources (your speakers).

Finally, when the sound wave hits a reflecting surface, it inverts and takes off at an angle equal to the incoming angle but on the other side: it makes a triangle. For the simplest case, consider a constant sound wave that comes from the speaker and hits the back wall, coming back along the same path but inverted (180 degrees out of phase). It’s like a mirror image of the sound… It travels along interacting with the incoming wave, sometimes adding, sometimes subtracting. Think of sitting somewhere in Figure 1 while signals bounce around, creating peaks and valleys at your listening position. What we hear depends upon where we sit with respect to the distance from the wall, and the frequency of the sound.

If we have a sound source in a closed room, the frequencies at which interactions occur (the modes) can be predicted since the dimension are known. Since we know the velocity of sound for a given frequency, we can calculate wavelengths, and in turn predict the modes of that room. Those are the frequencies at which peaks and valleys will occur. These peaks and valleys will occur at integer submultiples of the room’s dimensions, and even multiples generally cause the biggest problems. Thus sitting in the exact center of the room is where we are most likely to have problems with them. That is also the reason many sources suggest sitting 1/3 from either wall in the longest dimension of the room to minimize the impact of the lowest mode.

Calculating room modes is straight-forward if somewhat tedious:

Fmode = v/2 * m / D where

Fmode is the frequency of the mode
v is the velocity of sound (1130 ft/sec in dry air at sea level)
m is the mode (an integer: 1, 2, 3, …)
D is the room dimension (width, length, height)

The fundamental mode (m = 1) creates a standing wave in the middle of that dimension, a peak or null (usually a null, but it is sometimes hard to predict which as the modes increase). A mode of two indicates a wave that has traveled twice along that dimension, and so forth. There are tangential and oblique modes reflecting from other dimensions and such; it can get complicated quickly. For now, consider a simple room with dimensions 10’ W x 20’ L x 9’ H and calculate the first few modes in each dimension:

Fmode = (28, 57, 57, 63, 85, 113, 113, 126, 141, 170, 170, 188, 198, 226, 226, 251) Hz

These are frequencies at which sound in the room will peak or null. Note that peaks can easily reach 10 dB (10 times) or more, but physical factors (absorption, wall vibrations, etc.) usually prevent peaks much larger than that. Nulls due to cancellation can be quite deep; 30 dB (1/1000) or more is not uncommon. Thus, fixing the nulls is often harder than bringing down the peaks. It is often easier to move the listening position…

Note that several frequencies are duplicated. This is because 20’ is an integer multiple of 10’, leading to multiple modes at the same frequency. This will exaggerate the effects at those frequencies, and indicates why good sound design requires room dimensions that are not multiples. Prime numbers are often used to prevent mode doubling.

Because closely-spaced modes are not heard as separate frequencies, knowing the difference frequency (Fd) between successive nodes is useful:

Fd = (28, 0, 6, 22, 28, 0, 13, 16, 28, 0, 19, 9, 28, 0, 25) Hz

Most texts agree that differences of 10 Hz or less are problematic as our ear/brain system does not separate them, making one big dip or peak. This room clearly has several problem frequencies…

Sound absorption or diffusion can be used to reduce or “break up” room modes and reduce their impact on frequency response. Either way, they must be physically large to handle low-frequency problems due to the very long wavelengths involved. This is why solving bass problems requires large diffusers and/or a lot of bass traps. Other folk, such as our own Ethan Winer, are better equipped to discuss mitigation of these modes in your room. His website, www.realtraps.com, also has a calculator to help determine the modes of your room. There are numerous other calculators online.

Reading back, this may a bit hard to follow, but hopefully presents a picture of room modes and why they matter.

HTH - Don
 
Last edited:

Gregadd

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excellent Don
 

microstrip

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Thanks, Don.

One of the best calculators is located at :

http://www.hunecke.de/en/calculators/room-eigenmodes.html

It shows you in 3D for any room mode the relative pressure zones. It is really a useful tool to complement bass frequency response measurements in speaker placement - using it you know better how to move your speakers to correct the response.

You have to enable the Java plugin in the browser to run it.

If you are interested in these matters, see also:

http://www.hunecke.de/en/knowledge/index.html
 

Gregadd

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We are talking theoretically about an unfurnished room. I guess that's why we have to measure.
 

Scott Borduin

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Jan 22, 2011
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We are talking theoretically about an unfurnished room. I guess that's why we have to measure.

Yes. I had my room done by these folks:

http://www.performanceacousticslabs.com/PAL/Home-Acoustics_Listening_Rooms.html

They spent two days just measuring the room, prior to doing the design. I would say that no more than half - if that - of the bass range resonances in my room corresponded to predictions of standard lateral/tangential/oblique modes, even though my room is straightforwardly rectangular in shape and had no furnishings in it at the time. Some of the things we found we truly bizarre - like a very deep 70hz notch that turned out to be a resonance in the HVAC system. I'd say, if you're going to do a design that is any more complex than putting bass traps in room corners, you have to measure first or you're probably going to end up designing for the wrong thing.
 

microstrip

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We are talking theoretically about an unfurnished room. I guess that's why we have to measure.

Knowing the room modes does not save you from measuring - speakers are not ideal and you have to also consider the speaker response. You will know which positions you should avoid, and after you get a measured response in a position you will know how to move them .

Furniture will not change the value of the room mode frequencies - but it can damp them. The room modes dominate the room acoustics only at frequencies lower than the Schroeder frequency - somewhere between 150-250 Hz for typical rooms.
 

Gregadd

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Would you prefer rectangular or asymmetrical?
 

Ethan Winer

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Knowing the room modes does not save you from measuring - speakers are not ideal and you have to also consider the speaker response.

It's even worse than that. Mode calculators assume that all boundaries are perfectly reflecting at all frequencies, which is rarely the case unless you live in a cement bunker. I've seen measured versus predicted vary more than 20 percent! Walls that flex even a little can absorb sound, which in turn lowers the resonant frequencies. So for this reason, mode calculators are useful mainly for designing new spaces, not for assessing an existing space.

--Ethan
 

DonH50

Member Sponsor & WBF Technical Expert
Jun 22, 2010
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What Ethan said. I made a passing mention about the same thing in my opening post.

As for room dimensions, the "standard" is to use prime number ratios, ratios with no common divisors, and not rectangular in the sense of having integer relationships among dimensions. Any time 2 (or 3) dimensions are multiples of each other (including equal, a multiple of one), modes double (or triple) up and get much harder to tame. A square cube is perhaps the worst case.

Things like angled walls and vaulted ceilings make it almost impossible to calculate room modes (at least without some sort of numerical integration) and complicate the reflection patterns. Thus, while they may (or may not) provide better sound, they are much harder to analyze and treat. At least at higher frequencies; the solution to lower-frequency modes is almost always "add more bass traps". At least partly because LF diffusers get big and expensive. At higher frequencies, say low midrange up, diffusion actually works well, but good diffusers are often much more expensive than absorption panels (diffusers are much harder to make). The compromise is a trap with a membrane so that it absorbs bass frequencies while not killing all the highs. There is endless debate about the right way to go, of course...

Given the current endless quests for detailed info about most any presenter, here are my comments relative to this:

1. I actually prefer a highly-damped room. Partly because of some studio work, and partly because I prefer the very stable image such a space provides. It lets me hear what "space" is in the recording without adding room effects. And, absorbers are cheaper, natch.

2. While I have used audio test gear in the $100k range, what I am using now (personally) is R+D on an old notebook, a Creative outboard sound card/box/whatever (X-Fi), a cheap m-Audio preamp (Fast Track Pro), and an earthworks measurement mic (M30, I think, but am too lazy to go down and look). The mic ran around $600, and is probably worth more than everything else combined (including my 6-year-old notebook).

3. My current system is all SS, though I have owned and loved tubes in the past (ARC and Counterpoint, plus numerous others that drifted through on trials). No turntable (still boxed in storage, and years ago I got rid of most of the 3000+ LPs I had, saving maybe 300 of my favorites). It is not a high-end system, especially by the standard of this site:

Oppo BD-83, Pioneer SC-27, Emotiva XPA-2 (L/R mains) and XPA-5 (center/surrounds/rears), Magnepan MG-IIIa L/R, CC3 center, and MC-1 surrounds and rears, and a pair of Rythmik F12 subwoofers in parallel with the mains. Gobs of panels in a roughly 13.5' x 17.5' x 8.5' room. There are pictures somewhere on this site. I think it's as good as anything I've had. Please do not ruin the delusion.

4. I tend to listen to the music, not the system and its components. There was a time when I lived to pick every nuance and perceived error in my system; I seem to have outgrown that. Maybe I just don't care anymore, maybe my ears have turned to clay, whatever. I can appreciate the differences among gear, and surprised my friend and myself by readily distinguishing between a couple of amps in a short blind test, but feel my stuff is good enough for me. Of course, the real answer is that I can't afford any better...

5. I am an engineer (EE, high-speed/microwave analog IC design and now systems engineering for storage systems), a musician (trumpet), and an audiophile. I like fishing, hunting, off-roading, riding horses, playing with the kids, and petting the dog. I listen to CW, classical, jazz, and (mostly light) rock (I do not like rap, though my son has found some interesting metal, and I still like Pink Floyd). I can measure and can hear, and as a good Missouri boy if you make a definitive statement about either you'll have to "show me". As for my eclectic interests: "Specialization is for insects" - Heinlein. Deal with it.
 

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