CH Precision with HRS SXR rack - query

Azjya

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Jan 8, 2022
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Would appreciate input.

Have home demo of C1/L1/M1.1 pending.

Am considering HRS SXR rack.

Using 12 inch struts will allow enough vertical height for the M1.1 but am wondering if it’ll be too difficult to actually wrangle the M1.1 into the rack.

Using a separate amp platform isn‘t a viable option: all the components would need to be racked (am thinking about a 3-level double wide rack, with the right hand side for server, power supply etc etc).

Anyone have experience with this situation?
 
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LL21

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Hi Azjya,

The HRS racks are amazing, and am personally a big fan of their work. As for muscling the amp onto the rack...I cannot think that it will be any easier to do so on any other particular kind of rack. In fact, because the shelves on HRS are typically polished granite surfaces, you should find once you get 2 feet onto the shelf, you should very comfortably be able to slide it all the rest of the way in.

We own a custom rack but use HRS M3X shelves on top of the shelves...and that has been exactly our experience. Carry the unit up to the shelf, get the 2 back feet onto it and you will immediately be carrying only half the weight at that point...and then you can tilt the front of the unit up slowly and slide the entire unit back fully onto the shelf quite easily.

In any event, hopefully you only lift it in place once, and then sit back and enjoy. Well worth the effort imho!
 

rsorren1

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Hi Azjya. I'm happy to offer insights into the procedure for setting our big amplifiers, A1.5s, M1.1s, M10s on to HRS racks / platforms. Usually the installation of our systems are done by our dealers who are familiar with the procedure I've described below. Furthermore, our components have a number of settings that optimize their performance for your speakers, room and preferences. Since you are going to audition a C1 DAC, I assume you will want to stream digital files from a server source and our dealers can help you with that. I just want you to have the best possible home audition and experience with our components.

Several of our U.S. dealers are also HRS dealers. They are familiar with the best configurations of racks (size, strut length, etc.), platforms and feet for the HRS platforms to support CH Precision components that will meet your needs.

To place an M1.1 amp on to an HRS platform, first, I suggest that two people are involved in the lifting. Start by getting the M1.1 out of the box and sit it on the ground in front of the shelf where it will reside; about a foot from the front of the shelf with the faceplate facing forward. Next, cut a piece of sturdy cardboard, 4" wide, 19" long and bend it in the middle at 90 degrees. Use some tape to attach the "L" shaped cardboard to the top and face of the shelf so you don't accidentally mar your beautiful HRS platform during the placement of the amp. You will need two hard surface furniture sliders. Place them at the front of the platform separated by the same distance as the feet on the bottom of the amp. Have one person on each side of the amp. Lift the amp together and place the rear feet of the amp on the furniture sliders. Once the amp rear feet are on the furniture sliders, carefully slide it into position. You will have to make sure that both persons move their grip forward and hold the front of the amp just slightly off the surface of the platform as you slide the amp back in place. Once in place, one person can lift up each corner of the amp to remove the furniture sliders. That's it. Our dealers are familiar with this technique and we do it all the time at shows and dealer events.

ENJOY YOUR TIME WITH OUR C1/L1/M1.1
 
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Azjya

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Jan 8, 2022
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Thank you both.

Ralph - can I ask another couple of questions? Firstly, in the photo which you posted above, I would imagine that struts on the right and left stacks are 12 inches (the middle one must be a slightly longer length given the extra height of M10). In the stack on the right you have a T1 and an X1. Presumably you stacked these one atop the other on the floor in front of the rack and then slid the combination into the rack in the way in which you described for the M1.1 above? If the audition goes well, I can imagine in the fullness of time adding an X1 and I would plan to stack it on the L1 (or the C1) on the second shelf up (12 inch struts for all levels). Or stack the C1 on the L1 on the middle shelf, and put the X1 solo on the top shelf. Can you foresee any practical issue with this? Finally, are you able to give the official word on whether or not CH P equipment is designed to be left on 24/7, or turned on for listening and off again after? I did see this partly discussed on a separate thread but an ‘official’ answer from you would be helpful. With thanks!
 

rsorren1

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Sep 6, 2013
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Thank you both.

Ralph - can I ask another couple of questions? Firstly, in the photo which you posted above, I would imagine that struts on the right and left stacks are 12 inches (the middle one must be a slightly longer length given the extra height of M10). In the stack on the right you have a T1 and an X1. Presumably you stacked these one atop the other on the floor in front of the rack and then slid the combination into the rack in the way in which you described for the M1.1 above? If the audition goes well, I can imagine in the fullness of time adding an X1 and I would plan to stack it on the L1 (or the C1) on the second shelf up (12 inch struts for all levels). Or stack the C1 on the L1 on the middle shelf, and put the X1 solo on the top shelf. Can you foresee any practical issue with this? Finally, are you able to give the official word on whether or not CH P equipment is designed to be left on 24/7, or turned on for listening and off again after? I did see this partly discussed on a separate thread but an ‘official’ answer from you would be helpful. With thanks!
Azjya, the struts on left and right are the 12" clearance height. The middle is 14" clearance for the M10. If you load our smaller components one at a time into a 12" clearance shelf, and intend to stack them, you have to be extremely careful. If you get help and can stack and then place the stacked pair as I've described you should be fine. I would lay a towel over the top component for protection. If you were to add an X1, I suggest an X1 Dual for the L1, C1. At a later time, you can add a second X1 and power the C1 and L1 with individual X1s that will enhance performance again. You order an empty X1 chassis and remove one of the regulator cards from the X1-Dual placing it in the second X1. Cost is the same as if you bought two X1s on day one. Upgrading is additive, you don't have to trade-in anything to do this. If you were to add an X1-Dual first, I would have it on the shelf alone and stack the L1/C1.

As far as leaving our components on all the time: I do not do this. After each session I shutdown the system and every component goes into "standby". It is my experience that the M1.1 (and M10) sound their best when the operating temperature gets over 40 degrees C. It usually takes about 30-45 minutes of playing music to achieve this. My experience is the system is stunning from the first notes played on any session but there is a "magic" that happens over 40 degrees C. Robert Harley made a similar observation in his review of the 10-Series. I will tell you that several of the U.S. Dealers will disagree with me. They keep the system on all the time and "mute" the amp(s) after every session. Our components do not dissipate very much power so keeping them "on" all the time will not cause a lot of heat to be produced in your listening area. Our components are pure class-A all the way to the output stage of the amp. We implemented a patented circuit called "Exact Bias" in our amps that allows the output stage to operate in Class A/B for efficiency yet we get the linearity of Class A by always having the output stage optimally biased. Therefore, not a lot of heat dissipated. Hope this helps.
 

Azjya

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Jan 8, 2022
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Thanks again, Ralph, all noted. One more question: am I correct in thinking that a high level sub connection can be safely taken (piggybacked) from the speaker terminals of the M1.1? I run a Wilson Benesch Torus system.
 

rsorren1

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Thanks again, Ralph, all noted. One more question: am I correct in thinking that a high level sub connection can be safely taken (piggybacked) from the speaker terminals of the M1.1? I run a Wilson Benesch Torus system.
Yes. As long as the sub has a high impedance input, it will not be a problem. Several of our owners use REL subs that have high impedance inputs and connect to our amps similarly to what you are describing.
 

gian60

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Thanks again, Ralph, all noted. One more question: am I correct in thinking that a high level sub connection can be safely taken (piggybacked) from the speaker terminals of the M1.1? I run a Wilson Benesch Torus system.
I have M1 mono and i have interest to buy the new Torus and my friend Italian WB distributor told me is ok,absolutly no problems
 

Azjya

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Jan 8, 2022
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Another question for the team: from an aesthetic perspective, am considering 12 inch struts between bottom and middle platforms, and 6 inch struts between the middle and top platforms. 6 inches = 152 mm. The L1, C1 are 133 mm high. I’d want to allow space for potential use of Vortex underneath.
Yes. As long as the sub has a high impedance input, it will not be a problem. Several of our owners use REL subs that have high impedance inputs and connect to our amps similarly to what you are describing.
Ralph - am having Blue Jeans Cables run me up the high level cable for the purposes of the forthcoming demo and they’ve asked me what size spades for the M1.1 - is it 9 mm spades or 6.5 mm spades? Thanks in advance.
 

MadFloyd

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Another question for the team: from an aesthetic perspective, am considering 12 inch struts between bottom and middle platforms, and 6 inch struts between the middle and top platforms. 6 inches = 152 mm. The L1, C1 are 133 mm high. I’d want to allow space for potential use of Vortex underneath.

Since I've already asked this question I can tell you that the response you'll probably get is that you should have 10" between shelves - to allow for Vortex and damping plates.

However, I personally found this to be a little extreme. Here is a pic of my HRS rack. The 3-shelf has 10" spacing. I don't have Vortex underneath at the moment (although I have before) and there was still plenty of space for a damping plate and air flow. Keep in mind the SRX frame has an inverted U shape that gives you more space for damping plates (should you decide to use them of course).

rack.jpg

I'm actually swapping out the struts to go down to the default 8" spacing.
 

rsorren1

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Since I've already asked this question I can tell you that the response you'll probably get is that you should have 10" between shelves - to allow for Vortex and damping plates.

However, I personally found this to be a little extreme. Here is a pic of my HRS rack. The 3-shelf has 10" spacing. I don't have Vortex underneath at the moment (although I have before) and there was still plenty of space for a damping plate and air flow. Keep in mind the SRX frame has an inverted U shape that gives you more space for damping plates (should you decide to use them of course).

View attachment 87960

I'm actually swapping out the struts to go down to the default 8" spacing.
All, my advice is the 10” struts since it gives you the flexibility to add chassis vibration components if you choose to do so and the air flow is better. If you measure the height of a CH Precision L1/L10/P1/C1/D1/X1/X10/T1 plus Vortex plus a damping plate (DPX-14545) you get 8”. You could use the thinner damping plate on top (DPll-14545) and it will fit but it’s tight. However, 8” struts will work fine if you decide to use the CH Precision provided spikes.

As far as the speaker terminal on an M1.1, 6.5mm or 9mm spade will work fine. We also accept banana on the amp side. The center of the speaker terminal can be removed and a banana plugged directly to the speaker output. I use speaker cable with a 0.5” Spade (12.7MM) and it fits.
 

MadFloyd

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All, my advice is the 10” struts since it gives you the flexibility to add chassis vibration components if you choose to do so and the air flow is better. If you measure the height of a CH Precision L1/L10/P1/C1/D1/X1/X10/T1 plus Vortex plus a damping plate (DPX-14545) you get 8”. You could use the thinner damping plate on top (DPll-14545) and it will fit but it’s tight. However, 8” struts will work fine if you decide to use the CH Precision provided spikes.

Hi Ralph, here's a question that just occurred to me. When you put Vortex under a CH component, are you doing it directly under the current feet or against the actual chassis?
 

LL21

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Hi Ralph, here's a question that just occurred to me. When you put Vortex under a CH component, are you doing it directly under the current feet or against the actual chassis?
Hey MadFloyd, while we wait for Ralph to answer, in our system, we (and most people I know) use the HRS feet (Nimbus Assembly or the newer Vortex) directly under the equipment chassis and bypass the feet.
 
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rsorren1

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Hi Ralph, here's a question that just occurred to me. When you put Vortex under a CH component, are you doing it directly under the current feet or against the actual chassis?
All, I’ve had this discussion with Mike Latvis, HRS. We don’t want the Vortex/Helix/Nimbus under the CH Precision feet. These devices should make contact with our chassis. Mike’s advice was to draw imaginary diagonal lines from the front feet to back. Place the Vortex/Helix/Nimbus just inside the CH Precision feet along these diagonal lines. There are a few bolts that stick out slightly on the bottom of some of our components and you want to avoid those to maximize surface contact.

On 10-Series, we made our feet removable. Three torx screws per foot and they can be removed. Therefore, on 10-Series the CH Precision feet can be removed and Vortex/Helix/Nimbus used in those locations.
 

MadFloyd

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All, my advice is the 10” struts since it gives you the flexibility to add chassis vibration components if you choose to do so and the air flow is better. If you measure the height of a CH Precision L1/L10/P1/C1/D1/X1/X10/T1 plus Vortex plus a damping plate (DPX-14545) you get 8”. You could use the thinner damping plate on top (DPll-14545) and it will fit but it’s tight. However, 8” struts will work fine if you decide to use the CH Precision provided spikes.

As far as the speaker terminal on an M1.1, 6.5mm or 9mm spade will work fine. We also accept banana on the amp side. The center of the speaker terminal can be removed and a banana plugged directly to the speaker output. I use speaker cable with a 0.5” Spade (12.7MM) and it fits.

So today was the day when I was getting my 10" struts replaced by 8". Turns out the 8" are not high enough and there was a mixup with my rack; I had 12" spacing all this time! No wonder I thought 10" was crazy high - it was 12" !

So I now agree that 10" is the proper height. Apologies.
 
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