Thanks very much for your offer but Armin Krauss at AG helped me with this in 2014. I did the resistor mod, but it did not change much. I just left them on for the remaining years. No harm done.
Actually, AG has been more than helpful over the years. The comments I made were...
I use the little green ball over the listening chair and eyeball alignment. The room, listening position and speakers are laser located.
Camera location is off slightly; otherwise everything is perfect!
I have not read all of the latest posts here, but feel compelled to support the statements by Chop. I have had Trios with four Sub 225s for 20 years. The subs are now for sale (cheap) for pickup only in Minnesota. (Send me a pm if interested).
See my post...
Appreciate your comments.
The room was built as a house addition over my garage. It is patterned after Mike Lavigne’s room, but a little shorter. Same designer as Mike: Chris Huston of Rives Audio.
Thanks for your comments!
1. Price :)
2. My friend Chop has the same speakers and changed his Avantgarde subs to the REL 212SE with great success.
3. I asked REL about this and they said that they had more experience with the 212 in this sort of system.
4. The horns cross over at about...
Getting back to midget amps and 1000 watt subs:
I stumbled on this thread after I had posted a reply on the “SET amp owners thread.”
Referring back to my posts #600 - #609
I have made some changes/IMPROVEMENTS.
Specifically, for discussion today, I have changed my (4) Avantgarde SUB 225 subwoofers. The change is truly phenomenal! Stick with me; this is coming back to my SET amps.
I have had many issues with the...
I’d like to add at least one entry in this thread.
I purchased my Io with volume controls in 2000 and added a second power supply shortly afterward. This fall it was upgraded to (partial) Eclipse status and a second phono input added. Carl Jerritts at Apex Audio helped me with many...
I ordered the SPI Westek ionizer from DigiKey for $340.
My setup is a bit different because of the way my tonearms function. You can see in the photos. It’s about ten inches above the record. Velcro makes it adjustable if needed. It seems to work great. My record surfaces are quieter :)...
In this case, for the price, I'll be happy if the static and dust disappear. Anything else will be a bonus.
Incidentally, FWIW, I did buy a toy that helps with record maintenance: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WN6D3TK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for posting the photos. I'm considering one of the SPI Westek ionizers. Does it have any hum or other noise?
I see that the new internet price is <$400 and it has replaceable emitters for $34 a pair.
The obvious question for me, although it may have already been asked and answered, is WHY CAN'T SR BREAK THESE FUSES IN BEFORE SALE???
Even if it added to the (already) significant price, it would seem to be a huge advantage for some of us.
I hope I'm not opening a Pandora's Box here.
You commented relative to SR orange fuses: "I use them in the mains wall plug here in the UK they are very good."
Did you add a fuse socket to the face plate of the wall plug, or how did you execute this?
Have you compared your results to having the fuse in the piece of equipment?
This is an update to my post #156
My analogue system is now back in business, complete with Daizas under my 3-chassis Aesthetix Io Eclipse.
The top two source components are sitting on Symposium Rollerblocks; the bottom four are on BDR cones (attached to the chassis).
There is still a small...
This one is 0.165 inches thick. I had several that were ten or twenty thousands thinner, and chose this one. The washers vary in thickness, because it doesn't affect their intended function.
I'll likely revise it again for analogue. :)
First, a belated thanks to Mike Lavigne for your reply to my first message to this thread.
This message is about my experience so far with Daizas. It has only been with my BAT CD player, but I should have some feedback on vinyl in a few weeks when my Aesthetix Io Eclipse is broken in.
A bit of...
I am new to this thread, but I now have four of the Daizas in my system and expect to have more soon. A big thank you to Mike Lavigne and others at WBF who continue to inspire me and improve my musical enjoyment. Emile has been big help in all of this as well.
So far, I have only...
I am taking this opportunity to update my initial post #4:
I previously said:
I was coasting along loving my music until this thread caught my attention. Thanks for posting the link to the article, but if this doesn’t give you audiophile paranoia, I don’t know what will.
I’m going to do something a bit different here: The following post by Tima to the "Degritter Ultrasonic Record Cleaner" thread caught my eye and I’m hoping that it is ok with tima and everyone to copy it here...
I would also like to follow up with tima’s excellent points and question in post #407, above:
“Has Degritter (OR ANYONE) done any research into the amount of heat to use for optimal cleaning of vinyl generally or the material composition of a vinyl record?”
I spoke with Tovatech (the Elmasonic distributor) today and learned a few things that were new to me about my P60H.
I was inquiring primarily about speeding up my 60 minute cycle.
I learned that if you hold down the “kHz” button for two seconds, an asterik will pop up on the screen...
This explains a lot about why our results vary:
More water means better cooling over a limited time period.
It also reduces your ppm reading.
More power per record means shorter time per cleaning cycle.
My records are 1.25 inches apart. With any more than this, three 12 inch records...
Hi Tim (and dminches),
Thanks for your follow-up.
Water comes out of the tank drain and goes to a splitter “Y” with two shut-offs. When running only one pump, the other circuit needs to be shut off to prevent back-flow into that circuit. This prevents air getting into the lines.
On the inside back wall about an inch above the bottom, there are two obround heaters about 2.5 inches wide x 1 inch high and spaced a couple of inches apart. I would take a photo, but I just cleaned it off.
Because the two heating elements are on the back wall and are about 1.5 inches from the rear record of the three in rotation. They get hot enough to leave a black coating on the back wall. I haven't measured the temperature, but I think that it's possible you could melt/warp the back...
Thanks for asking.
I think that the attached history of my ultrasonic cooling experiments will answer most of your current questions.
Thanks for your reply.
"that 00005 ppm TDS holds fairly steady for my solution"
FWIW, I'm pretty certain that your 00005 reading is 5.0...