Satco and Vita-Lite/Durotest, are major manufacturers of color corrected fluorescent par and other shape bulbs. Home Depot also has 5500 degK bulbs, and they aren't bad, but they aren't quite as color corrected as the Vita-Lite or Satco or some other highly specialized (and expensive) specialty brands.
Satco makes many LED par bulbs.
The brightness is dependent on wattage and lumen output, not Kelvin temperature. The kelvin temperature describes the color. The CRI describes the fidelity of the specified Kelvin temperature of the bulb compared to a black body heated to that Kelvin temperature.
Incandescent bulbs always have a CRI of 100 because their color temperature IS the color of the black body (the filament) heated to the specified temperature. A 100 W bulb, now extinct, had a color temperature of about 2600-2700 degK and an output of 1710 lumens before the energy conservationists started bastardizing all the specs. Higher wattage bulbs typically have slightly higher color temps. A capsule type halogen bulb has a color temperature usually about 100 degK higher than the same wattage incandescent. A Photo-flood used to be 3200 degK. I haven't used them in years, so I don't know what they are now. The 3200 degK bulbs also burned out in 6-8 hours. The long lasting incandescent bulbs burn at a lower temperature/yellower, which is how they can last longer. Unfortunately, virtually all manufacturers LIE about the lumen ratio between their bulb and an incandescent equivalent. They often say their roughly 20-25 watt bulbs are equal to a 100W incandescent, but those bulbs only have about 1000-1200 lumens. LIARS abound and salespeople ignorant of the bulbs they are selling are equally ubiquitous. When a lighting sales rep shows up at my office unannounced, I usually see them to see what they have, but I also end up explaining what they are selling to them because most have little real knowledge about lighting.
As an alternative, some people might also like 5000 degK metal halide par lamps but the CRI of LEDs and fluorescents are usually, not always, better than the metal halides.
(I'm familiar with this because color and tissue matching is an important part of my practice.)