It has been about a year now since I’ve opened the doors of my shop to the general public. In that year, I have seen an amazing range of different amplification devices. While about 70% of my work involves guitar amplifiers, I have also seen my share of audiophile equipment. Reel to reel decks, linear tracking turntables, amplifiers, preamplifiers, tuners, and integrated subwoofers.
Some of the so called highly respected vacuum tube amplifiers have been rather lackluster in performance. While the outside of the amplifier looks impressive the internals tell another story: sloppy wiring techniques, crosstalk, poor build quality. And you know the funny part? After I’m done fixing these amplifiers, the customers call me up and rave about how wonderful they sound! It doesn’t matter that the amplifier has about 0.7% harmonic distortion. Perhaps it’s some of these distortion products that add something indescribable to the music that is considered pleasing to some ears.
More tricky, is the art of getting the right guitar amplifier tone. In this arena, there are as many unique listening tastes as there are guitar playing styles and guitar players. Every player is looking for a different sound. And some amplifiers have a beautiful harmonic profile when driven at moderate levels, but become downright ugly when driven almost to the brink of clipping. Some are ugly all the way through the range, and usually this can be improved with changes in bias voltage on the output tubes.
I recently had a Bang and Olufsen BEOGram 8000 turntable in here with a customer stating speed problems. Indeed the speed was fluctuating every revolution of the turntable. I quickly discovered that the mechanism for speed control was a transparent tachometer disc attached to the motor spindle and through which an optical sensor counts the apertures in the disc. The problem is that the printing on the disc was dissolving and disintegrating in a few places around the circumference. Fortunately I found a gentleman in Denmark who was manufacturing high quality machined stainless steel discs to replace the plastic ones. I replaced it and that cured the speed problem. Of course, as I tested the turntable further, other problems became apparent: when the turntable was called and the play command was issued, the tone arm would not set down onto the record. After a 10 minute warmup, the tone arm worked as it should. There were also problems with consistency of locating the lead in groove on the record. These problems were traced to faulty solder connections on the main control printed circuit board. After having reflowed solder on about 50 or 60 connections, I reassembled the turntable and it works perfectly now.
Another interesting project that came across my bench was an antique German radio. This one was completely dead when it arrived. The only thing that worked was the tube filaments. There were about nine resisters which were either open or grossly out of tolerance, plus two leaky capacitors. I did a full alignment on the tuner section and got the audio working very nicely with under 1% harmonic distortion from antenna to loudspeaker. Using an RF spectrum analyzer attached to the output of the IF strip and the tracking generator driving the input of the IF strip, I was able to see a real time representation of the IF skirts, enabling me to stagger tune and the IF stages so that any linear audio response could be achieved from the ratio detector. There were many challenges including the fact that the schematic was in German and was not quite the right diagram for this particular radio. However, I drew upon my considerable knowledge of antique radios to troubleshoot various circuits which were not working. The end result was stunning: a radio with rather fine tone and multi band reception. Here it is being demonstrated in my shop:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4285734071525&comment_id=4064097
Recently, I had a high and vacuum tube amplifier in here which suffered open bias resisters, causing the KT88 output tubes on one side of the amplifier to overheat badly. The manufacturer was several hours late supplying this schematic, so I trouble shot it and repaired it without this schematic. When the manufacturer sent it, it turned out to be the wrong drawing anyway. But the customer was happy just the same.
I’m having a great deal of fun as I repair a diverse collection of audio gear for an even more diverse customer base which is growing every day. I still have a long way to go before I am fully booked, but the shop has made excellent progress in the past two months toward reaching that goal.
Some of the so called highly respected vacuum tube amplifiers have been rather lackluster in performance. While the outside of the amplifier looks impressive the internals tell another story: sloppy wiring techniques, crosstalk, poor build quality. And you know the funny part? After I’m done fixing these amplifiers, the customers call me up and rave about how wonderful they sound! It doesn’t matter that the amplifier has about 0.7% harmonic distortion. Perhaps it’s some of these distortion products that add something indescribable to the music that is considered pleasing to some ears.
More tricky, is the art of getting the right guitar amplifier tone. In this arena, there are as many unique listening tastes as there are guitar playing styles and guitar players. Every player is looking for a different sound. And some amplifiers have a beautiful harmonic profile when driven at moderate levels, but become downright ugly when driven almost to the brink of clipping. Some are ugly all the way through the range, and usually this can be improved with changes in bias voltage on the output tubes.
I recently had a Bang and Olufsen BEOGram 8000 turntable in here with a customer stating speed problems. Indeed the speed was fluctuating every revolution of the turntable. I quickly discovered that the mechanism for speed control was a transparent tachometer disc attached to the motor spindle and through which an optical sensor counts the apertures in the disc. The problem is that the printing on the disc was dissolving and disintegrating in a few places around the circumference. Fortunately I found a gentleman in Denmark who was manufacturing high quality machined stainless steel discs to replace the plastic ones. I replaced it and that cured the speed problem. Of course, as I tested the turntable further, other problems became apparent: when the turntable was called and the play command was issued, the tone arm would not set down onto the record. After a 10 minute warmup, the tone arm worked as it should. There were also problems with consistency of locating the lead in groove on the record. These problems were traced to faulty solder connections on the main control printed circuit board. After having reflowed solder on about 50 or 60 connections, I reassembled the turntable and it works perfectly now.
Another interesting project that came across my bench was an antique German radio. This one was completely dead when it arrived. The only thing that worked was the tube filaments. There were about nine resisters which were either open or grossly out of tolerance, plus two leaky capacitors. I did a full alignment on the tuner section and got the audio working very nicely with under 1% harmonic distortion from antenna to loudspeaker. Using an RF spectrum analyzer attached to the output of the IF strip and the tracking generator driving the input of the IF strip, I was able to see a real time representation of the IF skirts, enabling me to stagger tune and the IF stages so that any linear audio response could be achieved from the ratio detector. There were many challenges including the fact that the schematic was in German and was not quite the right diagram for this particular radio. However, I drew upon my considerable knowledge of antique radios to troubleshoot various circuits which were not working. The end result was stunning: a radio with rather fine tone and multi band reception. Here it is being demonstrated in my shop:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=4285734071525&comment_id=4064097
Recently, I had a high and vacuum tube amplifier in here which suffered open bias resisters, causing the KT88 output tubes on one side of the amplifier to overheat badly. The manufacturer was several hours late supplying this schematic, so I trouble shot it and repaired it without this schematic. When the manufacturer sent it, it turned out to be the wrong drawing anyway. But the customer was happy just the same.
I’m having a great deal of fun as I repair a diverse collection of audio gear for an even more diverse customer base which is growing every day. I still have a long way to go before I am fully booked, but the shop has made excellent progress in the past two months toward reaching that goal.