I have been reading about them the past couple of days and there is no consensus. The conversation goes from 3.00 basic outlets to outlets costing hundreds. No one can seem to agree on anything. I want to know if it is worth Investing 2-3 hundred on some Ac outlets. If not I'll just by more music and call it a day.
What is your take on AC outlets
- Thread starter taters
- Start date
I don't think that you'll find consensus 
There are even 2-3 hundred $ AC outlet covers. I think that I'd enjoy $300 of music more than $300 of AC outlets or outlet covers.
However, upgrading the AC outlets to ones that grip better would improve SQ. I used the Hubbell hospital outlets with the green dot - the ones with the unplated copper terminals. I think that there's someone on this forum who would recommend another version, but I don't remember the one that was specifically recommended.
There are even 2-3 hundred $ AC outlet covers. I think that I'd enjoy $300 of music more than $300 of AC outlets or outlet covers.However, upgrading the AC outlets to ones that grip better would improve SQ. I used the Hubbell hospital outlets with the green dot - the ones with the unplated copper terminals. I think that there's someone on this forum who would recommend another version, but I don't remember the one that was specifically recommended.
It's all cumulative. Just sticking some AC outlet in the wall with no forthought, the only advantage you'll have is maybe those audiophile powercables won't fall out. If you did what I did:
1. Have a custom made cable run from the street to an Equi=tech wall cabinet with separate runs for L/R channels and keeping analog and digital equipment off the same line.
2. Separate grounding rods into the earth and all cables behind the wall no closer than 1' running parallel
3. 10/3 audiophile UL approved in-wall cable
4. Connecting the in-wall cable to the outlet by crimping/soldering with gold spades
5. Making sure you pay attention to details
1. Have a custom made cable run from the street to an Equi=tech wall cabinet with separate runs for L/R channels and keeping analog and digital equipment off the same line.
2. Separate grounding rods into the earth and all cables behind the wall no closer than 1' running parallel
3. 10/3 audiophile UL approved in-wall cable
4. Connecting the in-wall cable to the outlet by crimping/soldering with gold spades
5. Making sure you pay attention to details
You'd better not forget one of these babies: the Isoclean Zero Ohm Sub Panel (runs about $4K).
Utilizes contact parts that are are highly polished, then gold-plated to reduce resistance and increase contact area.
Solid copper bus bars and high purity copper wiring throughout.
Utilizes contact parts that are are highly polished, then gold-plated to reduce resistance and increase contact area.
Solid copper bus bars and high purity copper wiring throughout.
Hospital grade outlets with isolated grounds are just fine.
The dot GaryiKoh mentioned signifies the isolated ground.
The dot GaryiKoh mentioned signifies the isolated ground.
Last edited:
upgraded my wall sockets to gold plated ones , made a postive difference to the sound UK standard fused plugs
i have seen ul nema hubbel types in rhodium , gold & platinum types
i have seen ul nema hubbel types in rhodium , gold & platinum types
Hi Guys,
I have the instruments to test an AC outlet.
let me make a small video so you can see the real difference
im going to use MIT Products for the comparison
Nelson
I have the instruments to test an AC outlet.
let me make a small video so you can see the real difference
im going to use MIT Products for the comparison
Nelson
I had the Furutechs (same as Myles'), but moved to Oyade XX. Both are substantially better than regular outlets from Hubbell.
alexandre
alexandre
My preference remains the Hubbell specifiction grade HBL5362 customized and cryoed from JenaLabs -
http://www.jenalabs.com/ac-products/ac-parts09.html
Albert Porter also offers his PorterPort cryoed version of the Hospital Grade Hubbell HBL8300H which unlike most hospital grade outlets aren't nickel plated. I believe this is the outlet Gary was referring to.
http://www.porterhouseaudio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=52&Itemid=72
I've compared the Jenas to the stock HBL5362 and various Furutechs and Oyaides (not all of the various versions) under SBT protocols, and prefer the Jenas subjectively. Obviously, YMMV
-Paul
PS - I'm not a particular fan of cryo on most cables and/or connectors, but find cryoing of AC outlets to have very positive results in minimizing 'grit' and a better defined soundstage.
http://www.jenalabs.com/ac-products/ac-parts09.html
Albert Porter also offers his PorterPort cryoed version of the Hospital Grade Hubbell HBL8300H which unlike most hospital grade outlets aren't nickel plated. I believe this is the outlet Gary was referring to.
http://www.porterhouseaudio.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=52&Itemid=72
I've compared the Jenas to the stock HBL5362 and various Furutechs and Oyaides (not all of the various versions) under SBT protocols, and prefer the Jenas subjectively. Obviously, YMMV
-Paul
PS - I'm not a particular fan of cryo on most cables and/or connectors, but find cryoing of AC outlets to have very positive results in minimizing 'grit' and a better defined soundstage.
Last edited:
very good; likely the best panel....but not UL approved. if you have a fire your homeowners insurance could beg out of paying. it's one reason i went with the Equi=tech 10WQ panel which is UL approved.
+1
the Furutech GTX-D Rhodium are the best sounding outlets i've used by far. i have 9 of them in my system with the Oyaide outlet covers.
previously i had the Oyaide R-1's and before than the Jena cryo'd ones.
and i would choose the purest copper connection over the best gripping power. turns out metalurgy rules.
Could you tell us what are these instruments?
AC power is one of the most grey aspects of high-end. As it is effects are not understood and mostly, non predictable, anything can go. I have no doubt that power tweaks affect sound quality, but feel unable to say if X betters Y.
Although I have three dedicated lines and a very stable mains with little distortion - the power station is about 200 meters from my house - unhappily in my system I could not find a cheap or DIY system that could outperform the expensive power system I am using.
Buying excellent high-end audiophile plugs and connectors and top quality wire and replacing all power mains with custom made cabling was just an expensive mistake - the sound of system become hard and brittle, loosing all its envelopment and rhythm.
Surely all tweaks should only be applied after you are sure you have a good ground, and decent local wiring.
After my demonstration you will see thats the best US$150 upgrade
One more thing, please understand that my english is not good so
no jokes of how I speak in the video ...
Running separate wires from any point before the service entrance and probably before the main circuit breaker box is not permitted by code.
Separate ground rods are dangerous and not permitted by code!
Ground rods are all about safety during thunder storms and power company accidents.
Ground rods have almost nothing to do with audio quality. But in some cases grounding an audio system can worsen audio quality.
This was installed by a licensed/bonded electrician and was passed by the King County Building Permit inspectors. It may not pass in YOUR county, but here it did!
Last edited:
Similar threads
 | Steve Williams Site Founder | Site Owner | Administrator |  | Ron Resnick Site Co-Owner | Administrator |  | Julian (The Fixer) Website Build | Marketing Managersing |