The Acoustic Frontiers demo room build thread

Nyal Mellor

Industry Expert
Jul 14, 2010
590
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330
SF Bay Area, CA, USA
Well I always love those build threads over at AVS and figured I'd start one here for my 'media' room (for want of a better word) that is being built in my home in Fairfax, CA (Marin County, North of the Golden Gate Bridge). It's going to be a dedicated listening room and home theater that will serve as the demonstration facility for Acoustic Frontiers, both in terms of what we sell but more importantly what we do.

I would guess that a lot of forum dwellers here would love to have a large dedicated room but perhaps real estate prices where you live are high like they are here so unless you are earning 'the big bucks' it becomes a case of how do you remodel maybe a spare bedrooom, garage or basement into a place to enjoy music and movies and where you can be unencumbered by the need to make the space usable for more than one or two activities.

My demo room is just such a project. To get a usable size room in Marin County where I live I had to knock together a bedroom and two walk in closets (yes that was an 'interesting' negotiation with the wife, but she's getting a new deck out of it!). It's not the biggest of rooms (12 x 16.5 x 8) but it is - just - big enough I think to be able to support a very high level of music and movie reproduction. I'm not aiming to create a black hole 'man cave' but rather something inviting that can be used equally well for enjoying music and movies.

Thinking a bit creatively here, I wanted to create a space that worked well for both music and movies. It's a difficult proposition, not just from a room design and feel perspective but also from an acoustics perspective.

In 'music' mode' the projection screen will be electrically retracted and the blackout blind over the window rolled up. The projector is also out of the room in a 'hush box' which means that you will hopefully hardly know the room has a dual personality. The surround speakers are going to be hidden in columns or otherwise not be visible. I'm using Procella speakers for the LCRs which will be mounted in a baffle wall. At this stage I am not sure whether I will also have a separate set of speakers for two channel listening. If not then I'm going to cover the center speaker with fabric so that from inside the room all you see is two speakers flush mounted in the wall.

In 'movie' mode the screen and blackout blinds come down and it should be awesome sounding with the compression drivers and four subs in a mode canceling arrangement.

Anyway, we've done the first phase (demolition, most of the sound isolation, all the electrical except lighting) - photo below shows the room without the wall sheetrock up but actually this has been installed. Now just waiting for the components to create the sound isolated door and then it'll be time to build the baffle wall, mud / tape the drywall and do the door installation. For more pics see my blog post.

View attachment 4609
 

Bruce B

WBF Founding Member, Pro Audio Production Member
Apr 25, 2010
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And make sure you mark on the floor/ceiling where every stud is so you won't hit one with a screw! If you took out a closet, it's no longer considered a bedroom, so you could have closed off the window according to code.
I would have used Roxul and added about 20 more outlets!
 

Nyal Mellor

Industry Expert
Jul 14, 2010
590
4
330
SF Bay Area, CA, USA
Rails for IsoClips?

I added a minisplit for HVAC in my media room to isolate from the house HVAC. Helps a lot.

Yeah IsoMax on the walls and Resilmount A96R on the ceiling.

It very rarely gets cold or hot enough in Marin to have the heating or cooling on (moderate Californian seaside climate). Though am interested if you could describe more about your minisplit, how it is setup and which mfg you used...
 

Nyal Mellor

Industry Expert
Jul 14, 2010
590
4
330
SF Bay Area, CA, USA
Bruce - We used some short drywall screws that just went through the hat channel so no danger of hitting the studs, 1" on the first layer, 1 3/4" on the second layer...I also wanted to leave the window there so I can enjoy listening to music without it being a blacked out 'man cave'!

What's your take on the benefit of rockwool over fluffy fiberglass for this particular application?
 

DonH50

Member Sponsor & WBF Technical Expert
Jun 22, 2010
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Monument, CO
Hmmm... If you say so, but I'd be nervous with a bunch of gear in the room. I used to live in CA (El Segundo), and my system would heat up the room at times, and the house got a little chilly at times in the winter. The main reason for the minisplit is to isolate the room from the house ducts, which are great sound transmitters for everything else in the house. Mitsubishi makes the official MinSplit units; mine is a Fujitsu. The main (noisy) unit is mounted outside, with a single 3" hole to plumb the wall unit inside.
 

cjfrbw

Well-Known Member
Apr 20, 2010
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Pleasanton, CA
Looks interesting. Would be worth a vist, since it is local in the Bay Area, when done.
 

Nyal Mellor

Industry Expert
Jul 14, 2010
590
4
330
SF Bay Area, CA, USA
Hmmm... If you say so, but I'd be nervous with a bunch of gear in the room. I used to live in CA (El Segundo), and my system would heat up the room at times, and the house got a little chilly at times in the winter. The main reason for the minisplit is to isolate the room from the house ducts, which are great sound transmitters for everything else in the house. Mitsubishi makes the official MinSplit units; mine is a Fujitsu. The main (noisy) unit is mounted outside, with a single 3" hole to plumb the wall unit inside.

Absolutely agree on the sound isolation. Common ducting is like a big pipe for sound around your house! There is good access from below where the current ducting runs and also on the back side of the room to the attic (the house is split level) to install new ducting. I need to make a call on what to do on that front soon!
 

DonH50

Member Sponsor & WBF Technical Expert
Jun 22, 2010
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Monument, CO
Check your codes -- I was required to have ventilation so have a short duct to the outside for bringing air in and a quiet-fan for exhaust, no connection to the rest of the house. Most of the time it's just the minisplit if anything, and that thing is almost silent on its "Quiet" mode.
 

RBFC

WBF Founding Member
Apr 20, 2010
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www.fightingconcepts.com
Nyal,

One of the complaints about air conditioning is the highly reverberant nature of the air duct system. Typical hard tin rectangular ducts act like drum skins and horns to transmit sound. Here's an example of the products I've got scoped out for my build:

http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/h...ble-ducts/m-ke-thermaflex-flexible-hvac-ducts

The insulated ducts have much lower sound transmission characteristics, and aren't that expensive.

Lee
 

Bruce B

WBF Founding Member, Pro Audio Production Member
Apr 25, 2010
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515
1,740
Snohomish, WA
www.pugetsoundstudios.com
Nyal,

One of the complaints about air conditioning is the highly reverberant nature of the air duct system. Typical hard tin rectangular ducts act like drum skins and horns to transmit sound. Here's an example of the products I've got scoped out for my build:Lee

This is what I used... insulated ductwork with baffles and split from the main trunk.

I feel Roxul is much better at sound isolation and an added benefit is that it's fire resistant and water repellant
 

amirm

Banned
Apr 2, 2010
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Seattle, WA
Yeah IsoMax on the walls and Resilmount A96R on the ceiling.

It very rarely gets cold or hot enough in Marin to have the heating or cooling on (moderate Californian seaside climate). Though am interested if you could describe more about your minisplit, how it is setup and which mfg you used...
We live in even cooler climate and our basement theater still gets uncomfortably hot. Reason is not as much temp although that is an issue too but humidity. 4-5 people in a closed room watching a movie for 90 minutes generates a lot of moisture from breathing. You need air movement to make it comfortable. In my new theater I have a dedicated zone and normally leave the HVAC off. Even with the temp in 60s it feels uncomfortable if I don't recirculate the fan! Projectors and amps can raise the temp too on top of that.

The best audio/video won't compensate for such discomfort.
 

Nyal Mellor

Industry Expert
Jul 14, 2010
590
4
330
SF Bay Area, CA, USA
We live in even cooler climate and our basement theater still gets uncomfortably hot. Reason is not as much temp although that is an issue too but humidity. 4-5 people in a closed room watching a movie for 90 minutes generates a lot of moisture from breathing. You need air movement to make it comfortable. In my new theater I have a dedicated zone and normally leave the HVAC off. Even with the temp in 60s it feels uncomfortable if I don't recirculate the fan! Projectors and amps can raise the temp too on top of that.

The best audio/video won't compensate for such discomfort.

I hear you. The room currently has common ductwork (no return) for heating that was there before from when this was a bedroom (remember this is a remodel). There is no cooling in the house, and no insulation either for that matter. The room will have 3 seats. The equipment rack and projector will vent into the attic (I think, though maybe it will be too hot up there).

Thanks to all on this thread for reinforcing the need to think about this. I will figure out a solution :)
 
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