Audiophile Fuses

highstream

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Nov 16, 2013
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You didn't say what it would be used in. The answer commonly would be yes, but it's hard to say without knowing the equipment and maybe how the developer has rated the fuse requirement -- most but not all way overrate to account for different situations. And it's not just the value but also slow or fast blow type (most use slow-blow). I have a tube preamp that is rated for 2A, but the developer suggested 3.15A to be safe, but when I plugged in a second set of output ICs for subs, even though the subs weren't on, the fuse blew right off. So I went to an 4A Orange.
 

asindc

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Sep 27, 2012
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You didn't say what it would be used in. The answer commonly would be yes, but it's hard to say without knowing the equipment and maybe how the developer has rated the fuse requirement -- most but not all way overrate to account for different situations. And it's not just the value but also slow or fast blow type (most use slow-blow). I have a tube preamp that is rated for 2A, but the developer suggested 3.15A to be safe, but when I plugged in a second set of output ICs for subs, even though the subs weren't on, the fuse blew right off. So I went to an 4A Orange.
Clayton M-300 amps, fast blow. I haven’t inquired to the developer yet, but I was generally wondering if using 10A fuses where 6A are recommended would harm the amps.
 

highstream

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The M-300 manual online, p.11, says it takes three 5A fast blow fuses (and should be replaced by the same value). Is that not up to date? It's tricky asking a developer, especially when you're talking about more or less doubling the value (vs. maybe 1.25-1.5x as much. Maybe someone here can explain why a manufacturer might use fast blow fuses, and the implications for your application. Also, a search for "Clayton M300 forum" shows a few Clayton threads on Audiogon where you might ask very specifically if anyone has used SR Oranges in theirs (I would ignore those who say never change recommended fuse values, unless they give a reason specific to Clayton or fast blows).
 

highstream

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The problem with asking the developer is that they are apt to say NO!, no matter what. I would think they have to be very careful for legal and financial/warranty reasons. You could pose it this way: "I'm interested in using SR Orange fuses, but because they are not made to industry standards, they've been known to blow at spec. So it's common for people to use the next size up." Then see what they say. But it's hard to imagine them saying OK to 10A. That's why I suggest searching out other owners first to get the lay of the land.
 
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asindc

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Sep 27, 2012
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The problem with asking the developer is that they are apt to say NO!, no matter what. I would think they have to be very careful for legal and financial/warranty reasons. You could pose it this way: "I'm interested in using SR Orange fuses, but because they are not made to industry standards, they've been known to blow at spec. So it's common for people to use the next size up." Then see what they say. But it's hard to imagine them saying OK to 10A. That's why I suggest searching out other owners first to get the lay of the land.
Understood. That’s why I hesitated to begin with. I haven’t found any discussion regarding the M-300 and aftermarket fuses, which is why I posted here. Thanks for the suggestions. The amps are not in warranty so no problem there. Another reason I reached out to the developer.
 

BruceD

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Dec 13, 2013
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I also went down this fuse rabbit hole-I have a PSU input at T3.15A (Slo)-thought to try the following all at correctT rating for the unit

AMR --all blew on turnon lost $
Synergistic Research --all blew on turnon lost $$'s
Hif Fi supreme --all blew on turnon lost $$$'s
Furutech --all blew on turnon lost $$$$'s

Restored factory supplied same ratingT Fuse 3.15A--startup immediate-- checked same procedure all fine.

My thoughts are those fancy wallet drainers above do not have any surge capabilities--or am I missing something.

Anyway lost enough on that palaver-- :mad:

Caveat Emptor

BruceD
 
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asindc

Well-Known Member
Sep 27, 2012
187
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I also went down this fuse rabbit hole-I have a PSU input at T3.15A (Slo)-thought to try the following all at correctT rating for the unit

AMR --all blew on turnon lost $
Synergistic Research --all blew on turnon lost $$'s
Hif Fi supreme --all blew on turnon lost $$$'s
Furutech --all blew on turnon lost $$$$'s

Restored factory supplied same ratingT Fuse 3.15A--startup immediate-- checked same procedure all fine.

My thoughts are those fancy wallet drainers above do not have any surge capabilities--or am I missing something.

Anyway lost enough on that palaver-- :mad:

Caveat Emptor

BruceD
Thanks for posting.
 

asindc

Well-Known Member
Sep 27, 2012
187
20
923
You didn't say what it would be used in. The answer commonly would be yes, but it's hard to say without knowing the equipment and maybe how the developer has rated the fuse requirement -- most but not all way overrate to account for different situations. And it's not just the value but also slow or fast blow type (most use slow-blow). I have a tube preamp that is rated for 2A, but the developer suggested 3.15A to be safe, but when I plugged in a second set of output ICs for subs, even though the subs weren't on, the fuse blew right off. So I went to an 4A Orange.
Clayton M-300 amps, fast blow. I haven’t inquired to the developer yet, but I was generally wondering if using 10A fuses where 6A are recommended would harm the amps.
The developer of the M-300 said this:

“M300 shipped with 6A fuses, you can use up to 8A or even 10A if the unit is stable for a while for some end user say use higher amps. fuse will make the unit sound better. But must use the FB fast burn type fuse. the slow burn fuse structured with a small coil which will caused high frequency distortion. Any electronics device need to follow the NEC code to have fuse for protection from any accident.”

So 10A would theoretically work. Now if my friend could find his 10A Oranges...
 

SeagoatLeo

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Feb 23, 2015
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The final verdict for me with an SR Blue fuse in my EAR 890 is ..... I still prefer the stock fuse and I've requested an RMA for the SR Blue.

The SR Blue was run in for at least 500 hours all told in my fuse burner and the final A/B testing vs stock revealed to me that burn in *did* matter but the end result was simply not to my liking. In summary, the SR Blue produces what can best be described as a more damped sound vs the stock fuse. On the plus side, the nominal noise floor is certainly reduced. However, overall extension, micro-dynamics (perhaps most notably), and subtle textures (think of dragging a guitar pick across the strings, etc) have suffered. Reverb and decay are still muted by the SR Blue, which results in what some *might* consider a more focused soundstage, but to me sounds less natural, less room filling. You are left with these sort of voids or dead spots between instruments particularly in smaller jazz arrangements where, with the stock fuse, the cymbal decay or horn ambience in the recording venue will fill them in.

It was an interesting experiment. I'm glad I tried it, as I'd have always wondered if I hadn't. But, no, the SR Blue is not a keeper. Not for me.

Other final thoughts:

1. The effect of the fuse is much less significant than the effect of different power cords. By the end, the A/B listening between fuses isn't an immediate "WOW" effect. I had to sort of "catch on" to the changes over the course of 15 minutes or so, but once I did, then I couldn't unhear them. Whereas, in the beginning before burn in, the SR Blue was immediately worse.
2. The SR Blue does seem directional, believe it or not. For me, there was a "more damped" direction and a "less damped" direction. But neither were suitable as both were too deleterious.

EDIT: I have a strong suspicion that Beeswax fuses also have a damping effect, which likely wouldn't be to my liking. I'm fairly uninterested in testing other audiophile fuse memes at this point, but never say never.
Hi, I just began to use my EAR 890 again, now on a granite slab with SR Mig-Sx footer in the warm position, ECTs and GCTs as well. It sounds fabulous with the stock fuse. I ordered an SR Orange fuse. I had great success on a highly modded Dynaco ST70 and a pair of tubed 125w. monoblocks using the SR Blue fuse (incredibly superior than the stock fuse). My friend did not like the SR Blue fuse on his EAR 864 pre-amp. Is it possible that the EAR line only likes stock fuses?
 

knghifi

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Dec 6, 2014
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158
Recently replaced stock with SR Orange fuse in my CAT JL7 SE. Initial several hours sound was muffled before opening up nicely. Overall I like the changes ... adds a level of refinement to the sound. I had similar positive results with ARC and VAC using SR fuse.

Some gears, ie: Hegel H30, various ModWrights ... heard no differences. I think SR offers a 30 days free trial so no risk checking it out.
 

knghifi

Well-Known Member
Dec 6, 2014
255
70
158
After more hours on my CAT JL7 SE, I prefer the stock ceramic fuse. I'm hearing the same problems with SR Orange fuse as described by bazelio.
 

Adimon

Well-Known Member
Jan 4, 2011
136
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925
I also went down this fuse rabbit hole-I have a PSU input at T3.15A (Slo)-thought to try the following all at correctT rating for the unit

AMR --all blew on turnon lost $
Synergistic Research --all blew on turnon lost $$'s
Hif Fi supreme --all blew on turnon lost $$$'s
Furutech --all blew on turnon lost $$$$'s

Restored factory supplied same ratingT Fuse 3.15A--startup immediate-- checked same procedure all fine.

My thoughts are those fancy wallet drainers above do not have any surge capabilities--or am I missing something.

Anyway lost enough on that palaver-- :mad:

Caveat Emptor

BruceD
I had the same experience in combination with my Spectral amp.

The fuse blow during power-on.

The ampere rating was already higher than the stock fuse.

After some research i found that:

Synergistic Research blue fuse

S 2,5A 500V

I2t = 19

Stock fuse Spectral Power Amp:

BUSSMANN MDL-1-1/4

S 1,25A 250V

I2t = 86,2 !!!

The inrush current is too high for the SR fuse.
 
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Joe Whip

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Feb 8, 2014
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I don’t like fiddling with after market fuses either, but when I sent my McCormack amp in for the rebuild, they recommended the SR Blue fuse which they had already installed for testing before shipping it back to me. So, I figured it was OK. No problems in almost 2 years.
 

andromedaaudio

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Jan 23, 2011
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I did have to reset the home installation circuit breaker quit often in my appartment in amsterdam when i started the 100 watts CAT though .
The power bank in that amp draws so much current /electricity on start up its unreal , here in brussels where i live now , the amp starts flawless luckily
Never had this problem at start up with my Boulder 1060 or Krell evo 400 monos i used to own .
But i also never had a fuse break in either of them , i think easy to drive speakers helps a lot , putting much less strain on the amp .
 
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microstrip

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May 30, 2010
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I did have to reset the home installation circuit breaker quit often in my appartment in amsterdam when i started the 100 watts CAT though .
The power bank in that amp draws so much current /electricity on start up its unreal , here in brussels where i live now , the amp starts flawless luckily
Never had this problem at start up with my Boulder 1060 or Krell evo 400 monos i used to own .
But i also never had a fuse break in either of them , i think easy to drive speakers helps a lot , putting much less strain on the amp .

Well, IMHO when we have such problems it is due to a poor option in the amplifier design or a faulty circuit breaker. Manufacturers can easily include a soft start that has no effect in sound quality.

Are you addressing power circuit breaker or the differential breaker?
 

andromedaaudio

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I think it was the circuit breaker which limits the max amount of current for a certain device .
I think the huge Capacitators in the power bank of the CAT just need to fill up at start up .
Nothing bad i just flip the circuit breaker switch up again and voila , power .
And when you listen its easily forgotten , and as i said here in belgium the circuit breaker has likely more headroom as i never have had to restart it.
It has major advantages regarding dynamics though , i have never heard any amp as authoritive as a CAT , it beats the 300 watts Boulder and 400 watts krell evo s by a large margin, so no complaints
 

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