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Thread: Isolation materials

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by garylkoh View Post
    The material IS incredible. I didn't say that it didn't work - it's just that it gets oily with age, and it will mark things. I've got a lot of equipment with circular marks on the top, bottom, etc. It permanently marks almost every thing I put it on - even stainless steel. I literally have a hundred of these stainless steel pucks with Isodamp on both sides in various sizes that I still regularly use.

    If your motor has spike feet, the spikes will sink into the material and it will couple. I thought that you were going to put a flat motor on top of a sheet of this, and the motor will "float". That will be decoupling the motor which I wouldn't advise. At RMAF, my turntable had these pucks under its feet, and I thought that the bass tightened up considerably.

    I don't know about the sandbox. I think that the sand will compress in time, so you need to rake it periodically.
    Silly question, why not use a very thin plastic/polymer type material sheet to stop the marking (not saying it would work but as an example plastic or vinyl wrap/clingfilm), or would this influence the behaviour?

    Cheers
    Orb

  2. #12
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    @Orb - that's what I ended up doing...
    Sources: Mod. VPI Aries 3/mod. JMW 10.5i/Ortofon A90/mod. Pass XP-25; Spectral 3000 xport/mod. Alpha DAC; mod. Magnum Dynalab Etude; Revox B-77II Amplification: Spectral DMC-30SV/DMA-400RS Speakers: Heavily mod. MartinLogan (custom Mundorf xover, cabling, woofers; structural mods) Cabling: MIT Oracle 50ic,MA-X/Oracle 90.1; Power: MIT Z-Strip, Magnum Z-Trap; Shunyata CX Black Mamba HC cords, Typhon Tweaks: EAR Isodamp c1002 References: Live unamplified music, Joe Phelps Insignia
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  3. #13
    WBF Technical Expert (Speakers & Audio Equipment)/Member Sponsor [Technical Expert] garylkoh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orb View Post
    Silly question, why not use a very thin plastic/polymer type material sheet to stop the marking (not saying it would work but as an example plastic or vinyl wrap/clingfilm), or would this influence the behaviour?

    Cheers
    Orb
    If you are spiking into the material, the clingfilm makes no difference - but spiking into the material, the oily/marking property doesn't matter except that it collects dust and looks really horrible just a couple of months into its life. If you are using it as a puck under other equipment, the clingfilm makes it slippery and kinda defeats its horizontal coupling properties. I think that it may rely on its stickiness to couple to the surface of the device it is meant to help absorb vibration from.

    But if you don't care for marking your gear with round dots, it is an awesome material.
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    Gary L Koh, CEO and Chief Designer,
    Genesis Advanced Technologies

  4. #14
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    Yeah understood, I just mentioned clingfilm to give an idea of what I meant, heck clingfilm is crud even for what it is meant to do at times
    A more plausible material would possibly the vinyl wrap material they use on cars these days (think that is what it is called).
    But I do not know if it would possibly influence the behaviour of the original puck product.
    Ack, keep us informed how it goes.

    Cheers
    Orb

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    As another option, how about creating a very thin pad of Blu-Tack firmly mated to the gear, and then use the material coupled to the Blu-Tack? Of course, there may some chemical incompatibility between the Blu-Tack and other material, you need to set up a test connection and leave it for some months to see how it goes before trying in a big way ...

    Or good old sticky tape: the "glue" in this is actually viscoelastic in nature.

    Frank

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orb View Post
    Yeah understood, I just mentioned clingfilm to give an idea of what I meant, heck clingfilm is crud even for what it is meant to do at times
    A more plausible material would possibly the vinyl wrap material they use on cars these days (think that is what it is called).
    But I do not know if it would possibly influence the behaviour of the original puck product.
    Ack, keep us informed how it goes.

    Cheers
    Orb
    All I did is place a large enough cut-out from a ziplock bag under the isodamp so as to protect the granite shelf. I let the steel vpi feet sink in it (it's not much anyway), so I don't care about them getting marked... We'll see how it goes in a few months. To be honest I have another crazy idea in the works... But I can't go into details right now... This is not exactly a sane hobby :-)
    Sources: Mod. VPI Aries 3/mod. JMW 10.5i/Ortofon A90/mod. Pass XP-25; Spectral 3000 xport/mod. Alpha DAC; mod. Magnum Dynalab Etude; Revox B-77II Amplification: Spectral DMC-30SV/DMA-400RS Speakers: Heavily mod. MartinLogan (custom Mundorf xover, cabling, woofers; structural mods) Cabling: MIT Oracle 50ic,MA-X/Oracle 90.1; Power: MIT Z-Strip, Magnum Z-Trap; Shunyata CX Black Mamba HC cords, Typhon Tweaks: EAR Isodamp c1002 References: Live unamplified music, Joe Phelps Insignia
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  7. #17
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    So here's what I came up with... interesting results - easily passes the knuckle rap test, foot stomping, the stethoscope test on the body and platter (and to a large extent on the motor body as well), and the silent track test on the HiFiNews test LP with the subwoofer on and at max volume. We need to productize this

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    Isodamp C-1002 & Stillpoints supporting the granite

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    Sorbothane hemisphere & Isodamp for the feet (notice the protective piece of sticky paper protecting the granite from the Isodamp)

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    Sorbothane sheet, Isodamp and cork plates for the motor
    Sources: Mod. VPI Aries 3/mod. JMW 10.5i/Ortofon A90/mod. Pass XP-25; Spectral 3000 xport/mod. Alpha DAC; mod. Magnum Dynalab Etude; Revox B-77II Amplification: Spectral DMC-30SV/DMA-400RS Speakers: Heavily mod. MartinLogan (custom Mundorf xover, cabling, woofers; structural mods) Cabling: MIT Oracle 50ic,MA-X/Oracle 90.1; Power: MIT Z-Strip, Magnum Z-Trap; Shunyata CX Black Mamba HC cords, Typhon Tweaks: EAR Isodamp c1002 References: Live unamplified music, Joe Phelps Insignia
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  8. #18
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    Great pictures on what you did.
    And yeah the HifiNews test LP is very good.
    For those in the UK; this test LP and also the Stereophile test CDs can be purchased from:
    http://www.britishaudio.co.uk/
    Used them in the past and great service.

    Cheers
    Orb

  9. #19
    I use some Star Sound small points under my external motor and that helped. They are brass, I don't know if they are still in business but they made some good things. Their brass cones were a screw out and screw in VPI replacement for the aluminum cones.

  10. #20
    I has just about the last Aries Extended that they had and of course the long arm. They may have reintroduces it by now, I have been out of touch for some time. Sounded very good but a bear to move and as I could only set up one table at a time I sold it to a friend. I was a VPI dealer then and they were easy to set up and sounded very good. After I stopped being a dealer I got an LP12 that a friend had abandon for CD. Not easy to set up but a lot lighter.

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