ack's system - end of round 1

Scott W

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I contacted Kent with MIT to clear up a couple of questions I had and here is what I came up with;

The latest MIT Oracle Matrix 90 Rev2, Matrix SHD 120Rev1, MA-3 and MA-X SHD Rev1 speaker cables include an On/Off switch to engage/disengage 2C3D. This switch does not engage/disengage the network. The other switch that rotates is labeled “STD, HD, SHD” which according to MIT activates more poles of articulation causing the listener to hear more harmonic information that builds timbre and textures. They say as you go up the saturation becomes increasingly dense and more life like.

For interconnects all of them(under 3 meters) have impedance switches(sliders up and down) and MA-X Rev3 and MA-X SHDs add a rotator knob for the Adjustable Articulation Response Module(AARM).
 

ack

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Thanks Scott, that's exactly what I would expect.
 

PeterA

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I contacted Kent with MIT to clear up a couple of questions I had and here is what I came up with;

The latest MIT Oracle Matrix 90 Rev2, Matrix SHD 120Rev1, MA-3 and MA-X SHD Rev1 speaker cables include an On/Off switch to engage/disengage 2C3D. This switch does not engage/disengage the network. The other switch that rotates is labeled “STD, HD, SHD” which according to MIT activates more poles of articulation causing the listener to hear more harmonic information that builds timbre and textures. They say as you go up the saturation becomes increasingly dense and more life like.

For interconnects all of them(under 3 meters) have impedance switches(sliders up and down) and MA-X Rev3 and MA-X SHDs add a rotator knob for the Adjustable Articulation Response Module(AARM).

Thank you for this information, Scott. Do you know what 2C3D is? That is a very interesting comment about the articulation poles causing the listener to hear more harmonic information that builds timbre and textures. More life like???? It seems that at least some dealers, ack, and other listeners don't agree. With the $80K consoles at Goodwins, OFF sounded extremely natural and lifelike and the LOW MED and HIGH dials were all set to OFF also. So that meant the lowest articulation poles possible, though we don't know if that is 90, 120, or 10 as they are variable without markings or steps for the known # of poles of 90, 120, and 200. On their other cables SD sounds more natural and lifelike. In fact, I've been very impressed with MIT cables at the lower settings in some systems.

The impedance switches on the ICs are also interesting because Transparent uses networks to match impedances between components and is roundly criticized for doing so.
 

ack

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Scott W

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PeterA take a look at the link that ack posted about 2C3D. In the past I personally have preferred the Oracle MA series of cables over the "dot" series of cables which use the 2C3D technology. The MA series always sounded live to me and the "dot" series cables sounded like great music. MIT has now implemented the 2C3D technology in their MA series cables, but can be defeated according to the listeners system and likes.

Right now I am using a pair of Oracle MA SHD speaker cables and the settings are labeled "SD,HD, SHD". I have them in SHD, but have tried the other two. I find I get the best level of macro detail with the SHD setting. My room is really well treated acoustically but before it was I would use the SD and HD setting mostly.

"The impedance switches on the ICs are also interesting because Transparent uses networks to match impedances between components and is roundly criticized for doing so."

The impedance matching circuitry is the basic technology that MIT hangs their hat on and what makes their cable different than others besides Transparent. But with MIT a switch is built into the cable so it does not have to go back to the factory when one changes equipment like Transparent.
 

PeterA

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Thanks again Scott. That adds some clarity and I appreciate your comment about room treatment and how it effected your preferences for the various settings. Perhaps there is just too much information coming through for an untreated room to handle and it ends up sounding harsh or distorted. I'll take a look at the link for 2C3D.
 

Scott W

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Thanks again Scott. That adds some clarity and I appreciate your comment about room treatment and how it effected your preferences for the various settings. Perhaps there is just too much information coming through for an untreated room to handle and it ends up sounding harsh or distorted. I'll take a look at the link for 2C3D.

You are very welcome Peter. And I think you hit the nail on the head :D

You guys have a very Merry Christmas and if you can, enjoy some music.
 

ack

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Some reviewers know exactly what they talking about!

This post is rather unusual... it is to praise reviewers that know exactly what they are talking about, have a vast knowledge of music, are very down to earth, and like me, are straight shooters. I rarely meet an audiophile, never mind a reviewer, with whom I agree in just about everything, and when it happens, it's a rather uplifting experience. Such was the case recently when I met with Myles Astor... What a deep, meaningful and wonderful conversation about all things audio that was. We both have clearly been around the block a couple of times, and Myles clearly much more than myself. We'll leave the specifics of the discussion out in the cold, but suffice it to say it was an eye opener to meet someone with such deep knowledge of audio. There are some great people in this industry and Myles is one of them.
 

ack

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Modifications completed in 2015

Since there have been recent discussions about tuners and fuses, below are some mods that may be of interest; the tuner's have resulted in truly astounding sound from FM:

The AckFuse - basically thick copper foil from a Mundorf inductor used to bypass the fuse... yes, I am done with fuses, and don't use aluminum foil... I decided to do this after realizing that my amps' fuses were fairly warm after extensive high-power sessions, which indicates excessive and undesired resistance (ditto with so-called audiophile fuses like the HiFi Tuning).

Un-fuse.JPG

The Etude tuner's innards, with completely shielded RF section and bypassed coupling capacitors in the output (1st picture), eventually replaced with higher-value Mundorfs (2nd picture) as there was sufficient DC (the reason Magnum Dynalab put them there); the improvement in very low-end extension and tightness - as evidenced with various organ pieces - is staggering

IMG_1001.jpg

IMG_1076.jpg
 

ack

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It looks like there is renewed interest in my ML mods. All the details are under my alter moniker (since abandoned) at http://www.martinloganowners.com/fo...-Modifying-the-Odyssey-crossover-my-adventure and http://www.martinloganowners.com/forum/showthread.php?13791-Taming-resonances-in-the-Odyssey . It's best to have the schematic, and ML is forthcoming about providing them. One should also check out this set of mods http://www.martinloganowners.com/fo...pire-with-External-Crossovers-amp-Electronics from another user, under the moniker PaulUK here - THAT is one heck of a professional job, truly impressive! Of particular note is the separate crossover cabinet, and mass-loading of the woofer cabinet with stone, something I've been meaning to do, but never got around to.
 

JackD201

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I tink you will very much like putting stone augmentation via a specific adhesive that escapes me now as this treatment was applied to my former speakers as well as my present ones. The increased clarity and artiulation I think is right up your alley.
 

bonzo75

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I have been to Paul's very professional job, and it looks excellent too. He lives just outside London
 

Jazzhead

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Since there have been recent discussions about tuners and fuses, below are some mods that may be of interest; the tuner's have resulted in truly astounding sound from FM:

The AckFuse - basically thick copper foil from a Mundorf inductor used to bypass the fuse... yes, I am done with fuses, and don't use aluminum foil... I decided to do this after realizing that my amps' fuses were fairly warm after extensive high-power sessions, which indicates excessive and undesired resistance (ditto with so-called audiophile fuses like the HiFi Tuning).

View attachment 24676

The Etude tuner's innards, with completely shielded RF section and bypassed coupling capacitors in the output (1st picture), eventually replaced with higher-value Mundorfs (2nd picture) as there was sufficient DC (the reason Magnum Dynalab put them there); the improvement in very low-end extension and tightness - as evidenced with various organ pieces - is staggering

View attachment 24677

View attachment 24678

Hi ack , very interesting the idea of bypassing the fuse . Could you explain a little further , as to how it works . Cheers
 

ack

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Hi ack , very interesting the idea of bypassing the fuse . Could you explain a little further , as to how it works . Cheers

Hi,

First of all, do understand that YOU DO GIVE UP PROTECTION OF YOUR EQUIPMENT, if you happen to overdrive the equipment, and I know I am not and will not. Make sure you do too, before you do anything.

Otherwise, nothing new here other than the thick copper foil (which is what I was trying to show, plus how to fit the foil in); the most common way people do it is by using a bit of aluminum foil - which I dislike, sonically - or even a thin piece of bare wire (which is inadequate). Simply, as long as you run a good thick-enough conductor (e.g. copper foil) from one metal end of the fuse to the other, current flows over the path of least resistance, i.e. the most conductive part, which in this case is now the copper - that shorts the fuse. Effectively, all we are doing is using a thicker gauge conductor - which the fuse element itself isn't - to short the fuse. Again, YOU DO GIVE UP PROTECTION OF YOUR EQUIPMENT.

So, before you do anything like this, make sure you are not going to overdrive the equipment, and that includes you accidentally shorting things at any point in time, like internal power connections, output sections, etc. Fuses are there for a reason, and not only to get a UL stamp, so make absolutely sure you know what you are doing! But also do keep in mind that slo-blo fuses offer no protection against power surges. It is also a blessing that these Spectral amps and preamp offer additional sophisticated monitoring and protection circuitry that is not in the signal path - when they activate, what you notice is simply shutting down of amplification functions. They are extremely effective and quick-reacting, but not full-proof.
 

Jazzhead

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Hi,

First of all, do understand that YOU DO GIVE UP PROTECTION OF YOUR EQUIPMENT, if you happen to overdrive the equipment, and I know I am not and will not. Make sure you do too, before you do anything.

Otherwise, nothing new here other than the thick copper foil (which is what I was trying to show, plus how to fit the foil in); the most common way people do it is by using a bit of aluminum foil - which I dislike, sonically - or even a thin piece of bare wire (which is inadequate). Simply, as long as you run a good thick-enough conductor (e.g. copper foil) from one metal end of the fuse to the other, current flows over the path of least resistance, i.e. the most conductive part, which in this case is now the copper - that shorts the fuse. Effectively, all we are doing is using a thicker gauge conductor - which the fuse element itself isn't - to short the fuse. Again, YOU DO GIVE UP PROTECTION OF YOUR EQUIPMENT.

So, before you do anything like this, make sure you are not going to overdrive the equipment, and that includes you accidentally shorting things at any point in time, like internal power connections, output sections, etc. Fuses are there for a reason, and not only to get a UL stamp, so make absolutely sure you know what you are doing! But also do keep in mind that slo-blo fuses offer no protection against power surges. It is also a blessing that these Spectral amps and preamp offer additional sophisticated monitoring and protection circuitry that is not in the signal path - when they activate, what you notice is simply shutting down of amplification functions. They are extremely effective and quick-reacting, but not full-proof.

ack , thank you for taking the time to explain in detail . I have my gear rolled with the HiFi Tuning Supremes and while I am sure there are gains to be had bypassing them, I rather have my peace of mind given the caveat highlighted . Happy Listening
 

treitz3

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ack , thank you for taking the time to explain in detail . I have my gear rolled with the HiFi Tuning Supremes and while I am sure there are gains to be had bypassing them, I rather have my peace of mind given the caveat highlighted . Happy Listening
Hello, Jazzhead. I am glad for your gear's sake that you feel that way. After all, all it takes is one "Ooops" and the system is down. ;)

Tom
 

Jazzhead

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Hello, Jazzhead. I am glad for your gear's sake that you feel that way. After all, all it takes is one "Ooops" and the system is down. ;)

Tom

Hi Tom, .... So much music , so little time . Can't afford to slip up now ... :D
 

ack

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Wise words. Only if you know your equipment employs sophisticated protection beyond a silly fuse would you want to do the bypass.
 

ack

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The Year of the Dragon?

There is so much great classical music broadcast on FM in Boston, some of it live, that I am saving the Revox for the heavier programs. For the lighter fare and opera, I just had to have one of these, serviced and modified by Willy Hermann Services. It easily outperforms the Revox at 3-3/4 ips but not 7-1/2. Late serial number, in the 1990s, outstanding condition.

I am sure Steve Williams will appreciate this one...

Sorry, no ADC spoken here

dragon.jpg
 

dan31

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That is killer! Started with vinyl but moved to cassettes around 1980. Lots on Columbia tape club cassettes. Jealous. Are you using the tape loop on the DMC 30 sv?
 

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