Sanken s-60w

no affiliation - try http://www.ceitron.com/semi/ceisanken.html

I chased that link for him . It was a dead end. If you go to the shopping cart, they only carry their transistors now, not the ICs. I did provide a link in the other thread to a liquidator who might have it.

I have never used this eBay seller, but are these the chips you are looking for?
http://cgi.ebay.com/SI-60WS-SANKEN-/390092810153?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ad357e7a9

I did a search and can only find the spec for the old one: http://www.electro-tech-online.com/...-s-60w-datasheet-found-s-40w_s-60w_s-100w.gif

Looking at it, it is a dime a dozen power amp. Pretty straightforward design so I would be 99.99% that the S revision would work the same. The only small risk is if the S designation had different voltage rating and such.

One thing you can do is buy one and repair one channel with it. If it works, you can then buy the rest. Note that this amp has no protection circuit. So you better be sure everything else is right before soldering the new one in. Have you for example checked the power supply? Pull out all the amps and make sure the supply voltages are right.

How did this cook all four amps anyway?

Alternatively, you can buy a new AVR and be done with it .

Looks pretty hopeful with the same number of pins and shape!

Here are a few things to do before you plug it in. First take the *old* one and using a ohm meter check across 2 and 3 and then separately 7 & 8. It should essentially be an open load meaning very high resistance. If it is a small value like a few ohms, then the output in the old IC was definitely shorted out. This would be a good news because it would prove you are indeed replacing a bad part. Then measure between 3 & 5 and 5 & 8. These should show the same small value (.33 to .47 ohms). If they are very different or one doesn't show at all, then again the part was bad. If they do show the proper value, compare it to the one and make sure they are similar (won't be exact). Also check the outputs per first step on the new part to make sure you didn't get a defective part.

Next, set your multimeter to *voltage*. Turn the unit on with the amp still pulled out. Connect the negative probe of your meter to the metal chassis and then carefully, without shorting out multiple pin traces, measure what you see on pins 2 and 7. One should be a relatively high positive voltage and the other, negative. This would show that your power supply is OK. Spec shows +- 40 volts so you should see nominal values close to those. It is also possible to see zero on the bottom one and 70 to 80 volts on the other. If you see this, it is still OK but it means that your amp has an output capacitor which means it will have poor bass response. I suspect this won't be the case.

Of course you can just plug it in and see what happens . But don't rely on protection circuit to save you. There are many ways to cook this IC which the protection circuit won't prevent. For initial testing, do not hook up the speakers. Power it on and put your hand on the IC. Make sure it is not getting too hot to touch. If it is, quickly shut off the unit (keep one hand on power and the other on the IC). And look and smell for anything burning. If all is well, then use your *voltmeter* (make sure it is in volt setting) and measure the output across the speaker terminals. It should be a value close to zero. If so, then turn it off, turn the volume down, and connect the speaker wires. Again, turn it on as I suggested with one hand on the power and another on the amp, being ready to quickly turn it off if something is shorted out still.

Good luck!

Hi Eugen. I am glad it all works again. Isn't it rewarding to bring something back to life that way?

This is cool -- the first half-decent amp I made (back in HS, no need for dates ) used four 50 W Sanken hybrids (modules) pretty much like the ones discussed here. I built a killer power supply from surplus parts and used it for years. Small world!