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Thread: Lighting and flooring

  1. #11
    VIP/Donor [VIP/Donor] Folsom's Avatar
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    Oct 2015
    Eastern WA
    Quote Originally Posted by jdza View Post
    Well all that noise gets fed into the mains supply. Conditioners and mains cables may be wonderful but not having that noise on the line in the first place must surely be better?
    Not exactly. Both is best. It works by division (no "brick walls") and there was plenty there before LED bulbs.
    Industry Affiliation: Folsom

  2. #12
    Addicted to Best! Bobvin's Avatar
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    Jun 2014
    Redland, Oregon
    If you go LED, as I did in my remodel, be aware LED lights do not color shift to warmer color when dimmed (like a campfire or the setting sun) and depending on the temperature you choose can have a gastly grey color when dimmed. (You can buy color shifting bulbs and controllers, for much more expense and hassle.) For this reason I returned all my 3000 degree bulbs for 2700 degree. LED lights do not emit much red light energy, and they do not rely on a filiment which emits thermal radiation, so the dimmed result can be 'interesting.' Also be aware LED does not dim down as low as a filiment bulb and may stop at 15% (for example). Also be mindful of the CRI or color rendering index, and don't mix brands. Even then you will notice each bulb may be slightly different which is more apparent when you dim.
    óBob Vineyard, aka bobvin

    My system: Benz LPS, Einstein Turntables' Choice phono-pre (dual mono version), AMG v12 turntable, dCS Rossini DAC, Audio Research Ref10 pre, Audio Research Ref75 amp w.KT150 tubes, Wilson Alexia speakers. Transparent Ref MM2 & Gen5 signal cables, Shunyata Zitron Sigma, AlphaNR, Python, Anaconda, Cobra power cables. Shunyata Hydra Triton v3. Stillpoints. HRS. Acoustic environment optimized by Dr. Bonnie Schnitta of SoundSense.

  3. #13
    Addicted to Best! LenWhite's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
    Quote Originally Posted by Loheswaran View Post
    I am building a man cave in my loft conversion - it will give me a triangular shape.

    I am following principles of a 'room within a room' construction. that said I am puzzled as to two issues:

    1. What is the best lighting? - Energy saver bulbs really do introduce interference - the good old days of standard halogen bulbs are long gone now
    2. Do I carpet the floor, or shall I put down wood and put a rug over the middle?


    I used the Luminaire/E359867 LED strips (warm white) around the outside perimeter of the ceiling acoustic panels, and blue LED strips around the center cutouts. They're on separate circuits from the audio/video equipment and controlled independently so I can use only the blue for music listening.

    Engineered wood ("floating") was installed over the concrete slab.

    I've put more detail regarding the acoustics of the room on my Audiogon virtual systems page
    Acoustic Frontiers Room Design; Raidho D3 speakers; Jeff Rowland Corus preamp & 625 amp; EMM Labs XDS1 v2 CD/SACD player; Solidtech ROS; Nordost cabling, Ti Pulsar Points, QB4 power distributor; Quantum QX4 power conditioner; Ultrasonic LED shelving

  4. #14
    [WBF Founding Member]
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    [Technical Expert] Bruce B's Avatar
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    Apr 2010
    Seattle, WA
    I'm just glad my lighting system is totally separate from the studio. I also use JPS Labs Aluminata cables that have the best shielding I've used.
    Bruce A. Brown
    Puget Sound Studios
    Stereomojo reviewer
    Seattle, WA

    Even a blind squirrel gets a nut once in a while!

  5. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by jdza View Post
    I am as guilty as everyone in the use of LED bulbs. The fact remains that each and every one of these bulbs has a small and very nasty switch mode power supply built in.

    A friend of mine who is into ham radio has a nasty habit of walking around one's house with a portable cheap AM radio tuned off-station. The amount of noise picked up from LED bulbs is absolutely frightening.Try it!. Not applicable to audio? Well all that noise gets fed into the mains supply. Conditioners and mains cables may be wonderful but not having that noise on the line in the first place must surely be better?

    A small AC suppressor cap across each bulb does work wonders .
    Hi Mate

    This is the very thing I was talking about - electrical noise - it's creation and where it goes. I was trying to find a solution to have the interference not introduced I the first place. That being case are you suggesting a capacitor for each LED?



  6. #16
    [WBF Founding Member] audioguy's Avatar
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    Apr 2010
    Near Atlanta, GA but not too near!
    I just made some large cosmetic changes in my room, and changing from 2700K to 5000K (LEDs) was the most dramatic (and positive - even my wife likes them a lot). Here is a before and after photo of the lighting changes as well as the cosmetic changes. As far as LED's causing hum if dimmed - some do and some don't. I used the trial and error approach since what might hum in my room won't in your room.

    Old Look: (The colors in this photo are not accurate. Much warmer than reality)

    Name:  OldLook.JPG
Views: 90
Size:  73.5 KB

    New Look: (All room treatment is still the same but has been covered with black GOM - and the colors in this room are very close to accurate)

    Name:  NewLook.JPG
Views: 91
Size:  157.6 KB

    FWIW, n my last two rooms, both of which were multi-purpose (music and HT), I had hard wood flooring for the first 7 feet, then carpet. In this room, I chose not to do that ........ but can't remember why (comes with the whole aging thing I guess).
    "Iíve read the last page of the Bible, itís all going to turn out all right." Billy Graham

    My System

  7. #17
    Addicted to Best! Rodney Gold's Avatar
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    Jan 2014
    Cape Town South Africa
    My lighting is not on my audio circuit (which is a battery fed 5kva pure sine wave inverter) .. no hum , no buzz etc.
    One of the reasons I changed my whole house to led (circa 250 lights) is the fact that power delivery is poor , with surges and brownouts and it was killing my globes , spending large sums every 2-3 months for such issues with LED... and of course the fact that they use a lot less electricity
    Roon/Tidal ..Squeezebox touch . Trinnov ST2 room correction...Twin Devialet D Premier amps , Vivid Audio Giya G1 Spirits .. fully treated room

  8. #18
    JDZA came up with a super suggestion relating to putting an AC suppression capacitor. But would the capacitor be used for the whole circuit, or individual LED lights?

    As to the room I have decided to build a 'room within a room' and then use engineered wooden floors and rugs. That said I think the actual room treatment is gonna be 'fun' so to speak as the room is gonna be triangular in shape (being a loft)



  9. #19
    Moderator Moderator treitz3's Avatar
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    Dec 2011
    The tube lair in beautiful Rock Hill, SC
    I haven't experienced any issues with the Lutron dimmable switches yet (being broadcast through the speakers, introducing noise into the system or bulb buzz) and I have two in the audio room with two more in the bathroom off the listening room. No light bulb buzz either when dimmed.....but they do buzz in 2 of the other bathrooms when dimmed. Here are the exact ones I am using in the bathrooms...

    Here is what I have in the stereo room;
    ^^^These are supposedly the same master switch as the one pictured first but these have no noise in the listening room.

    The other one I use in the bathroom right off of the listening room has no noise, along with another one of the first Master switches for another light in that same bathroom

    I do not know why two of the three bathrooms have noise and the listening room/listening room bathroom have no noise but I would sure like to know how I can eliminate the buzzing sound. It can get annoying when the ambient sounds are low. For now, I use primarily the listening room bathroom for my "gentlemen duties" but it would be nice to enjoy peace and quiet in the other bathrooms as well. It's only noticeable at night, even though the sound is present throughout the day when the bulbs are dimmed.

    FWIW, I use all Cree 4 way LED bulbs (60w equivalent) and regular incandescent vanity clear globe bulbs (in bathroom off listening room only) for all lighting in all aforementioned areas.

    In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence.

    The best way to enjoy digital music reproduction is to never listen to a good analogue reproduction.

    I post my own opinions except when posting as a moderator in green.

  10. #20
    Member Sponsor [VIP/Donor] GaryProtein's Avatar
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    Jul 2012
    Quote Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
    I just made some large cosmetic changes in my room, and changing from 2700K to 5000K (LEDs) was the most dramatic (and positive - even my wife likes them a lot). . . . .
    When Gail and I met 15 years ago, I offered to change out all her light bulbs to 5000 degK and she refused. After a few months I insisted to change out the bulbs. After I changed them all, she said, "Why you didn't make me do this sooner?"

    She would never go back to warm white 2700 degK. 2700 degK is dull, dingy and colors don't look anything like they should. 5000 degK is happy light.
    Listening Room: McIntosh C46, MCD500, MR78, MPI4, MC602 (2), Accuphase DG58, Pass Labs XVR1 (three-way), tri-amplified Infinity IRS Series V, TailTwister T2X rotator, AtlasSound FMA Rack, dedicated electrical sub-panel, boarded up fireplace, NO TV!

    Living Room: McIntosh C28, MC2300, MEN220, Revox B226, Tascam CD355, Thorens TD125 MKII w/vacuum platter, Rabco SL-8E, Grace F9-Ruby, McIntosh ML-2C (2) & ML-1C (4) stacked, MQ-107, SAE 2800, Nakamichi Dragon, Tandberg 64X, JL Audio f113 (2)

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