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Thread: Lighting and flooring

  1. #1

    Lighting and flooring

    I am building a man cave in my loft conversion - it will give me a triangular shape.

    I am following principles of a 'room within a room' construction. that said I am puzzled as to two issues:

    1. What is the best lighting? - Energy saver bulbs really do introduce interference - the good old days of standard halogen bulbs are long gone now
    2. Do I carpet the floor, or shall I put down wood and put a rug over the middle?

    thanks

    Lohan

  2. #2
    Addicted to Best! Rodney Gold's Avatar
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    LED lighting .. normal high voltage LED lights will work , if you want a dimmer , make sure the LED lights are of the dimmable variety .. use warm white .. the stock daylight gives a cold light
    The most flexible floor is wood or fake wood over an acoustic underlay .. use rugs liberally
    Roon/Tidal ..Squeezebox touch . Trinnov ST2 room correction...Twin Devialet D Premier amps , Vivid Audio Giya G1 Spirits .. fully treated room

  3. #3
    [WBF Founding Member]
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    Yeah.... what Rodney said.....
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  4. #4
    Do LED's not emit the interference of modern energy savers?

  5. #5
    Member Sponsor [VIP/Donor] GaryProtein's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney Gold View Post
    LED lighting .. normal high voltage LED lights will work , if you want a dimmer , make sure the LED lights are of the dimmable variety .. use warm white .. the stock daylight gives a cold light
    The most flexible floor is wood or fake wood over an acoustic underlay .. use rugs liberally
    Why warm white 2700-3000 degK? I mean it's better than a candle, but not much.

    On the other hand, real daylight 5000-5500 degK (call it cool or cold of you like) is the color of sunlight--the color of the light stars have been using to illuminate the universe for billions of years. Why shouldn't the light bulbs emit the same color light that shines in the windows?

    The only warm white incandescent light bulb remaining in my house is in my oven. EVERYTHING else is 5000-5500 degK. Daylight is a HAPPY color.
    Listening Room: McIntosh C46, MCD500, MR78, MPI4, MC602 (2), Accuphase DG58, Pass Labs XVR1 (three-way), tri-amplified Infinity IRS Series V, TailTwister T2X rotator, AtlasSound FMA Rack, dedicated electrical sub-panel, boarded up fireplace, NO TV!

    Living Room: McIntosh C28, MC2300, MEN220, Revox B226, Tascam CD355, Thorens TD125 MKII w/vacuum platter, Rabco SL-8E, Grace F9-Ruby, McIntosh ML-2C (2) & ML-1C (4) stacked, MQ-107, SAE 2800, Nakamichi Dragon, Tandberg 64X, JL Audio f113 (2)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney Gold View Post
    LED lighting .. normal high voltage LED lights will work , if you want a dimmer , make sure the LED lights are of the dimmable variety .. use warm white .. the stock daylight gives a cold light
    The most flexible floor is wood or fake wood over an acoustic underlay .. use rugs liberally
    Pretty much exactly what we did. acoustic underlay with engineered wood since we've got underfloor heating, 3000K dimmable LED/Lutron. We do have a few large lambskins, with 3 large pieces hanging on one wall...the other still to have large art/photos hung on them.
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  7. #7
    VIP/Donor [VIP/Donor] Folsom's Avatar
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    LED's make more noise than incandescent, but the major source is dimmer switches. They're one of the worst. It's best to have the dimmer switch on another circuit than the audio gear. Even then, they're kinda nasty.

    If it's all on the same circuit I'd probably just have brighter and darker lights for use, with the darker ones maybe being lamps of sorts.
    Industry Affiliation: Folsom

  8. #8
    Member Sponsor [VIP/Donor] GaryProtein's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Folsom View Post
    LED's make more noise than incandescent, but the major source is dimmer switches. They're one of the worst. It's best to have the dimmer switch on another circuit than the audio gear. Even then, they're kinda nasty.

    If it's all on the same circuit I'd probably just have brighter and darker lights for use, with the darker ones maybe being lamps of sorts.
    Incandescent bulb filaments BUZZ when they are dimmed. Maybe you can't hear that!
    Listening Room: McIntosh C46, MCD500, MR78, MPI4, MC602 (2), Accuphase DG58, Pass Labs XVR1 (three-way), tri-amplified Infinity IRS Series V, TailTwister T2X rotator, AtlasSound FMA Rack, dedicated electrical sub-panel, boarded up fireplace, NO TV!

    Living Room: McIntosh C28, MC2300, MEN220, Revox B226, Tascam CD355, Thorens TD125 MKII w/vacuum platter, Rabco SL-8E, Grace F9-Ruby, McIntosh ML-2C (2) & ML-1C (4) stacked, MQ-107, SAE 2800, Nakamichi Dragon, Tandberg 64X, JL Audio f113 (2)

  9. #9
    VIP/Donor [VIP/Donor] Folsom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GaryProtein View Post
    Incandescent bulb filaments BUZZ when they are dimmed. Maybe you can't hear that!
    When I say noise it's about noise on the electrical system. For what reason would I be talking about self noise, say, of switches (sliders really) that don't make audible sound? If bulbs buzz, I dunno, use other ones....
    Industry Affiliation: Folsom

  10. #10
    I am as guilty as everyone in the use of LED bulbs. The fact remains that each and every one of these bulbs has a small and very nasty switch mode power supply built in.

    A friend of mine who is into ham radio has a nasty habit of walking around one's house with a portable cheap AM radio tuned off-station. The amount of noise picked up from LED bulbs is absolutely frightening.Try it!. Not applicable to audio? Well all that noise gets fed into the mains supply. Conditioners and mains cables may be wonderful but not having that noise on the line in the first place must surely be better?

    A small AC suppressor cap across each bulb does work wonders .

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