Yes niobium and silver tant has been tested by others and they even state burn in hours, results almost identical to mine.
I would say if I went from stock foil caps straight to vcaps the difference between that change compared to niobiums would be that the niobiums add slightly more in terms...
Here are the pics of my amplifier, bear in mind a leg snapped in the big output resistor path so I had to solder it from the top side. The two niobium resistors sit like that because it was easier to run tests and not damage the pcb lugs.
Is your preference the standard niobium.
Yes my preference is standard non magnetic niobium for input after coupling caps. I havnt tried any output positions as my amplifier doesn’t need any replacements as it’s a class d solid state and has not much on the pcb to change.
I’m using silver in...
I seeeeeeee!!!! That makes sense. You are right, but for some reason I do really like the amp and I liked the sound and found a thread where guys were upgrading it and thought let me one up them and do my own research regarding capacitors and cables and you will be surprised at how much better...
I was tempted to purchase the normal non magnetic niobiums after 30 h of burn in of the silver tantalum’s and I ended up buying them just because there was a slight upper midrange bump in the tantalum’s and I know how silver can affect sound.
I wanted to see the difference it makes at input so...
Only comparing silver tants non magnetic to silver niobium non magnetic.
To conclude I think the silver In my rca is what created the extra loudness and power and it was definitely because of the niobium because switching to the copper rca cables volume dropped noticeably, the tants never had...
Unfortunately we have two completely different types of amps and resistor sizes, but I agree niobium sounded too analytical in the signal in series’s with the input caps, but wow it absolutely took my breath away with the detail my system was able to output and it was so realistic, just lacked...
Ok I’ve installed the silver tants in a way that won’t damage the pcb and I can swap, and it’s definitely smoother and a different kind of warm, the instruments blend better but the detail isn’t as much as silver niobium, the detail in those were extreme, voices were a little heavier the highs...
I have silver an’s and tants but I cannot keep swapping them out for back to back comparisons due to the pcb getting damaged as these legs are slightly bigger. however im starting to think silver in general increases the live feel and soeskerless presentation, and dynamics so much more that...
I only have the silver’s I’m not sure what the difference is compared between silver and just standard niobium. I didn’t notice any brightness on the silver an niobium’s i tried, but i did notice the presentation of music was a bit more slightly forward and I did lose some of those airy leading...
What I am trying to say is this amplifier has multiple versions and the latest one has a 15k ohm takman rey, the older one has a 14k ohm takman rey which I can’t seem to find anywhere (they are specifically made for musical applications as they say), so I was forced to buy a 15kohm an resistor...
The legs on the right side of these foil caps go straight to those two resistors which I have changed to a silver niobium’s and these takman resistors are 0.25w each.
I haven’t given them that much time no, but the amp I have only puts out 60w a channel and that resistor reduced total volume output and increased bass noticeably.
I see. I have two toroidal transformer within inches of the resistors, and although they are protected with thin steel casing I’m concerned it will affect the z foil.
Also my amp is an ss amp that originally is more 2 dimensional in sound with all Takman resistors which give a very nice hifi...
Hey guys. what do you think about using 1/2w z foils, audio note silver tantalum or silver niobium resistors after the rca input, then volume pot to coupling capacitors on the input rca stage? Currently I swapped some takman reys that are 0.25w, to audio note silver niobium’s 0.5w and it became...
Guys quick update, I ended up putting the sr purple in the main plug at the start of the chain before the niagara 1200, got some yarbo 1100 cable from eBay which is incredibly natural and occ double shielded, and upgraded the qsa to a sr master in the pc plug for the dac. My god, regardless of...
You are correct. I fully burned in the sr purples and they are amazingly warm, little dark, low background noise but pretty bassy. I ended up using it in my dac to warm it up a bit, put the qsa violet in my wall plug that feeds an audio quest niagara 1200 to help open up the sr purples focus...
Hey guys, I’ve read this thread regarding sr vs Qsa fuses and I am aware that the Qsa red is a little on the warm side just a tad. For a heads up my system and dac is pretty revealing and analytical with Russ andrews ultra fuses as they gave a very neutral but a bit bright sound signature but...